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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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09-24-2014, 09:33 AM | #1 |
ka24de idle problems
Hello, I'm a relatively new s14 owner. I've had my car for about a month. In that time it has performed flawlessly except for some idle problems. I have done quite a bit of research, but I'm still having some issues and it would be much easier to make my own thread for my specific issues. So onto the car
I have the kad4de with full exhaust and header, cold air, and new water pump and radiator. It so has a rebuilt engine and new transmission with 45k on them. About two weeks ago engine light popped on with a po505 code, I changed the iacv after first cleaning the one on the car and still having issues. Once I changed the iacv engine light kicked off and the car ran perfect for a couple days. Since then my idle when coming to a stop will be anywhere from 700-1000. After doing a bit of research I checked my tps and that was fine. I still need to check for vacuum leaks and clean the egr. However yesterday I went to egr it wasn't there. I think it has been deleted? So my question is will I have a weird because of that, or could it be because of a vacuum leak? Could I put a new egr on and fix it that way? I am also running a bit rich which I assume is from the egr delete, I still get about 21mpg though. The car also takes a little bit of a trick to start, once I figured it out though it starts first try. I took a few pictures if that would help diagnose the problem Please no haters, just trying to figure out what's up with my car. Thanks |
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09-24-2014, 10:36 AM | #2 |
Zilvia Addict
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that idle range is about right 750 w/o ac on, 1000 w/ ac. Deleting EGR should not make your car run rich since its not on continuously and has never been proven with evidence (theoretically, maybe).
How do you know you are running rich? AFR Guage? Running rich means you have a vacuum leak as a result of egr delete or too much fuel for the engine to burn. |
09-24-2014, 11:20 AM | #3 |
I'm idling between 700-1000 regardless of ac being on or off. For example I'll come to a stop sign with ac off and be at say, 750rpm. Then next time I stop with the ac still it could be around 1000rpm. Other times it will stay at a steady 800ish the whole time I'm driving.
I know I'm running rich based off exhaust smell. It smells like gasoline. Plus the amount of exhaust is more than I've seen from any other car. Could that just be because of the after market exhaust (dumb question, but hey I have to learn haha) I'll check for a vacuum leak as soon as I get some free time then. Anything else i should check besides a vacuum leak? |
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09-25-2014, 02:40 AM | #4 |
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Start with a vacuum leak check, a good one! make a smoker (look it up online), works wonders and is 10 dollars from home depot to make (Metal Paint can and a 5 dollar mattress pump). Shove the smoker into your intake and open the throttle plate and just wait.
Leaky injector would be next guess but wait till your check for vac leaks |
09-29-2014, 03:39 PM | #5 |
Little update. Still need to do a vac check. Planning on doing it this weekend. However 2 nights ago my check engine turned on with the p0130 and p0170 codes. So o2 sensor and pcm. If I fix/replace those would that take care of my idle/running rich? I would do a vac check regardless because I'm sure there is a leak or to somewhere
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09-30-2014, 04:29 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Charlotte
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Now I'm also new at this car, but how stubborn are you bro? You ask for help and you get it, check the vacuum and then respond, as an engineer troubleshooting is a process, you need to rule one thing out to consider the next!
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09-30-2014, 05:18 PM | #7 |
I'm not being stubborn, I've just had two engine codes pop up since I started the thread. I'm still going to do a vacuum check this weekend, but based on my symptoms and the two engine codes I was asking if that would be where the problem lies. No sense in scrambling to do a vac check when that might not be the problem.
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