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Old 01-30-2017, 11:56 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by drifter92 View Post
UPDATE:

I ended up switching to 2 1650CFM SPAL 12" puller fans during the overheating problems trying to figure out what the problem was. I will most likely be switching back to a clutch fan setup ASAP. I'm also running a mishimoto thermostat, Koyo Triple Pass radiator, 2 5/16" thick, 2JZGTE water pump, and a 16LB 300zx TT radiator cap.

I snapped BOTH of my axles in half 2 days ago launching from a stop WAY too hard starting a burnout. Im using OEM s13 axles and a welded S13 diff with an aluminum driveshaft and my CD009. I changed axles yesterday and the car is all good again!
Are you selling the fans?

Do you still have the 4.08 gearing with the cd009? Isn't that crazy short?
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Old 01-30-2017, 01:37 PM   #62
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UPDATE:

The car is awesome, I just solved an overheating mystery after TONS of testing, research, parts, and most of all $$ MONEY $$

I had a couple tiny leaks on in the cooling system that were giving me some weird and inconsistent overheating issues. Like 1 pull would take me from 190F to 240F...

I ended up switching to 2 1650CFM SPAL 12" puller fans during the overheating problems trying to figure out what the problem was. I will most likely be switching back to a clutch fan setup ASAP. I'm also running a mishimoto thermostat, Koyo Triple Pass radiator, 2 5/16" thick, 2JZGTE water pump, and a 16LB 300zx TT radiator cap.

I snapped BOTH of my axles in half 2 days ago launching from a stop WAY too hard starting a burnout. Im using OEM s13 axles and a welded S13 diff with an aluminum driveshaft and my CD009. I changed axles yesterday and the car is all good again!

I will be driving in Lone Star Drift this year if I have the money, I'm going to get my roll cage done ASAP. I have 2 other s13's at the moment, which I will be selling ASAP to pay off JZ debt.
Glad you figured out the heating issue, i know you were a bit frustrated trying to figure. This is Terrance BTW....
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:40 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by t66-240 View Post
Are you selling the fans?

Do you still have the 4.08 gearing with the cd009? Isn't that crazy short?
Im returning the fans to JEGS. Im using the OEM s13 diff with the cd009, yes the gearing is extremely short, its okay for drift events but daily driving its annoying. 1st gear is nearly not usable, its like 0-6mph unless you floor it to limiter at 15mph... Im switching to an early Q45 diff thats 3.538 which is exactly the same gearing as a 350Z
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:41 AM   #64
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Glad you figured out the heating issue, i know you were a bit frustrated trying to figure. This is Terrance BTW....
Yea, thanks man. I had covered everything, that's what made it so frustrating. But its all good now
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:48 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by drifter92 View Post
Im switching to an early Q45 diff thats 3.538 which is exactly the same gearing as a 350Z
If you're interested, i have a Nismo 1.5 diff in a s14 housing for sale...
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:15 AM   #66
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UPDATE:

I finally just pulled the head to check head gasket and didn't really find any issues with the gasket but the coolant passages in the head and block were almost completely clogged with rusty shit-dick, I took the head to a local bad-ass machinist to a check-over and deck job. He found only 0.003" warping but when he decked it he found 0.005" low spots around cylinders 2-3. My spark plug for cylinder 3 had a slightly pink tint to it from my toyota red coolant so I assume that was the issue. He replaced my valve stem seals, check valve seals and found they were good and did not need valve grinding so he just lapped them and check all clearances, which were great. I have the head back now all clean and pretty, just waiting on my head studs to come in the mail and then I will be washing out the engine block and installing the head with a new OEM MLS head gasket and getting the car back together asap.

I'm working on LCA's knuckles, and custom tension rods for angle and I will post more details about that once I have it all worked out.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:24 PM   #67
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I still have not been able to assembly the engine due to a POS person not shipping my head studs for 40 days... I ordered new ones and the should be here this week and then ill be assembling the engine asap
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:53 AM   #68
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I ended up ordering head studs from DriftMotion...

I got the head decked, valve job, shim job, new valve seals, new OEM head gasket, ARP head studs, and a new Koyo N-Flow triple pass radiator to try to fix this overheating issue.

It appears to be good now! I have only driven the car 2-3 miles but the temperature stayed below 175 last night after doing a couple pulls spinning to limiter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqAzJRkheSc

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Old 05-21-2017, 12:30 PM   #69
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Awesome build man, love the black on white engine bay, very stealthy.

im building a 1jzvvti s14 right now

Got a few questions if you dont mind.
Mainly how do you like the cd009? did you happen to get the q45 diff and try out the new gearing?
Did you get new valves when you did the head? Have you heard anything about upgraded springs in the vvti?
also are still you running stock injectors?
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:11 AM   #70
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Quote:
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Awesome build man, love the black on white engine bay, very stealthy.

im building a 1jzvvti s14 right now

Got a few questions if you dont mind.
Mainly how do you like the cd009? did you happen to get the q45 diff and try out the new gearing?
Did you get new valves when you did the head? Have you heard anything about upgraded springs in the vvti?
also are still you running stock injectors?
The CD I had in this car from the beginning was beaten an abused behind a 700hp 2JZ formula drift car, so it wasn't in good shape when I got it. My SerialNine shifter relocation works amazing but the shifter feels very solid and I dont like the way it feels shifting, i like the way a stock KA transmission slides into each gear smoothly and like butter, the CD transmission I have owned have been a little more rough in temr of shifter feel and the CD999 shifter makes that feel more rigid and harsh, but it works perfectly and I love banging gears at limiter while sideways, I have never missed a shift in this car...

I own a Q45 VLSD 3.538 but I have not installed it yet, the gearing in the cd trans is great for drift events but shitty for daily driving, unless you like shifting alot lol

I did not need to replace any valves, I have no need for more power or stronger engine parts so I asked the head shop to make it solid and reliable like new. He lapped my valves but didnt need to grind them because they sealed well. I have never heard of upgrading valve springs, so my car doesnt need it. lol

I am running bone stock everything on my VVTi 1JZ, injectors, MAF, turbo, manifold, boost pressure, ECU, all factory everything.
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:05 PM   #71
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I appreciate the detailed response

Just watched a couple videos, Sounds awesome on stock everything, can wait to get mine running

Good luck with the build
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Old 05-24-2017, 01:38 PM   #72
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So, what adapter are you using now? At first you said Maverick with a milled BH, but it looks like Collins now?
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:03 PM   #73
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For what it's worth, I used mavericks plate and flywheel on my 1j/cd9 cressida and I would not recommend them, thing would not align properly and ate through pilot bushings.
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Old 07-20-2017, 06:39 PM   #74
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For what it's worth, I used mavericks plate and flywheel on my 1j/cd9 cressida and I would not recommend them, thing would not align properly and ate through pilot bushings.
this was the same situation as my car. I switched to collins adapter plate
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:03 PM   #75
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After 11 months of overheating issues, I sold the 1JZ setup for $5,000 then parted out the shell and bought a 350z only to realize later that the 350z cannot replace an s13 in my heart so I traded the 350z for my old s13 which now has a stock KA in it. I am working on the car now and I will make a new build thread to show everything happening. It will be staying KA no swaps planned ATM.

UPDATED 12-18-17
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Last edited by drifter92; 12-18-2017 at 05:36 AM..
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:06 AM   #76
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NEW BUILD THREAD HERE

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=654999
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:11 PM   #77
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this was the same situation as my car. I switched to collins adapter plate
Sorry, but can i just buy collins adapter plate and use it with maverick flywheel?

I have full maverick set, but i dont want to use it because this centering problem...

Its pretty expensive if i had to buy whole collins setup.

Thanks guys!
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:10 AM   #78
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Sorry, but can i just buy collins adapter plate and use it with maverick flywheel?

I have full maverick set, but i dont want to use it because this centering problem...

Its pretty expensive if i had to buy whole collins setup.

Thanks guys!
I would expect that combining different brands would be even worse than using one brand that is misaligned on it's own... Idk though
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:37 AM   #79
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I would expect that combining different brands would be even worse than using one brand that is misaligned on it's own... Idk though
Collins is 16mm thick and mavericks 10mm. So i just machine 6mm away from bellhousing and run collins plate with mavericks flywheel. Because buying at USA i need to pay over 30% taxes in here...

Only problem with maverick is missing alignment taps in gearbox side. Gearbox bolts isnt fully center and thats why every engine/gearbox have centering pins. Now gearbox isnt straight... Collins have centering both side like should be with no worries!

Thanks
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:53 AM   #80
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Mine had centering pins and it murdered the pilot bearing and had horrible input shaft noise and rattle.
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:57 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puliukk0 View Post
Collins is 16mm thick and mavericks 10mm. So i just machine 6mm away from bellhousing and run collins plate with mavericks flywheel. Because buying at USA i need to pay over 30% taxes in here...



Only problem with maverick is missing alignment taps in gearbox side. Gearbox bolts isnt fully center and thats why every engine/gearbox have centering pins. Now gearbox isnt straight... Collins have centering both side like should be with no worries!



Thanks


I noticed that with Maverick the other day. Would removing the pin on the gearbox or shaving it down cause issues? I think not since the pins/holes are there for the JZ, plus bolts will keep it aligned... Right?


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Old 07-10-2018, 07:08 AM   #82
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I noticed that with Maverick the other day. Would removing the pin on the gearbox or shaving it down cause issues? I think not since the pins/holes are there for the JZ, plus bolts will keep it aligned... Right?


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When you remove gearbox side pins, gearbox isnt fully aligment. Because bolt holes arent 100% aligment (thats why need pins to center). For this reason stock engine and gearbox have pins to keep it straight.

Same reason why need centering rings or right size center hole in wheels. Because wheel bolts doesnt center wheel 100%.

Remember stock car have only one pair of pins (center engine to gearbox) because there isnt adapter plate. When you add adapter you need one pair for engine and one for gearbox. (center engine to plate and plate to gearbox)

Maverick plate is only 10mm and need flush kind bolts for this reason, they dont center anything (and plate has engine side pins already centering). But when you dont center gearbox with 100% with pins it can (and seems to be) slighty off and cause problems!

Sorry for my English skills its not my first language!
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Old 07-10-2018, 07:11 AM   #83
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Mine had centering pins and it murdered the pilot bearing and had horrible input shaft noise and rattle.
But only in engine side? At least my maverick adapter have pins on engine side.

Its almost useless to center one side, when other side doesnt aligment fully. (bolt holes arent 100% correctly center never in gearboxes)
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