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Old 02-07-2018, 02:00 AM   #7561
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Just placed my order for the grip knuckles as well. Can't wait to install
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Old 02-10-2018, 11:21 AM   #7562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatPs13 View Post
What is the advantage of using the 350z steering rack? Is it wider?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
I believe it’s actually narrower, and less travel.
Actually has more travel. You don't need to use spacers on the tie rods to get more travel out of the rack.

Also, the steering shaft is located further outward, making more room for exhaust plumbing.

The mounting system is more robust, with a two bolt flange at one end and a bushing at the other. There's no way for the rack to travel side-to-side.

Lastly, they go for $75 on ebay and are as plentiful as wonderbread, vs. "I want $150 for my 200k leaky rack" s-chassis racks.
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Old 02-10-2018, 02:07 PM   #7563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Actually has more travel. You don't need to use spacers on the tie rods to get more travel out of the rack.

Also, the steering shaft is located further outward, making more room for exhaust plumbing.

The mounting system is more robust, with a two bolt flange at one end and a bushing at the other. There's no way for the rack to travel side-to-side.

Lastly, they go for $75 on ebay and are as plentiful as wonderbread, vs. "I want $150 for my 200k leaky rack" s-chassis racks.
Do you know what the turn ratio is?

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Old 02-10-2018, 03:10 PM   #7564
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Do you know what the turn ratio is?

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15.9:1, 2.6 turns lock to lock. Found via a 30 second google search.
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Old 02-10-2018, 09:53 PM   #7565
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Well maybe someone can make a weld in kit for them.


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Old 02-10-2018, 11:59 PM   #7566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
15.9:1, 2.6 turns lock to lock. Found via a 30 second google search.
Please excuse my indolence, as I do know better.
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Well maybe someone can make a weld in kit for them.


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It looks like it's a real tight space with the mounting ears

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Old 03-03-2018, 05:21 PM   #7567
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Hey everyone I'm in a bit of a situation. Ive grabbed myself gk tech front and rear drop knuckles. I'm stoked for them but I realized looking at the car today I will have clearance issues. I have 18x 9.5 wheels with a 265/35 federals, and tein super drift coilovers. With that setup, the coils are at maximum height adjustnent. I'm dropping down to a 255 but I don't think that will come close to alleviating the drop these knuckles are going to add.
I've seen the idea of strut spacers, but in reality how safe will that be?

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Old 03-03-2018, 05:53 PM   #7568
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I assume you mean a spacer between the strut and unibody. I also assume that when you say "the coils are at maximum height adjustment", you mean that they are set to their lowest possible ride height.

In that case, I don't think the spacers will help you, you would need to reduce the ride height even further to compensate for them.
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Old 03-03-2018, 06:03 PM   #7569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derass View Post
I assume you mean a spacer between the strut and unibody. I also assume that when you say "the coils are at maximum height adjustment", you mean that they are set to their lowest possible ride height.

In that case, I don't think the spacers will help you, you would need to reduce the ride height even further to compensate for them.
No I mean at their highest. I have my coils set to lift the car as much as possible. The lower mounts are at the very bottom of the threads on the body. Unless I'm an idiot and I'm not understanding properly. Only referring to the front, the gk tech knuckles (grip knickles) move the spindle location up, while keeping everything else in the same place. Meaning the wheel itself will move upward to the fender. With oem knuckles, my coils are at Max lift and I have just enough gap to be functional. Once these knuckles are on, my wheel would be hitting the fender and I cannot raise the car anymore with the coils, which is why I asked about spacers between the strut and body. I believe I saw someone further up the thread asking as well, but no follow up on what they did.

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Old 03-04-2018, 12:27 AM   #7570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
Hey everyone I'm in a bit of a situation. Ive grabbed myself gk tech front and rear drop knuckles. I'm stoked for them but I realized looking at the car today I will have clearance issues. I have 18x 9.5 wheels with a 265/35 federals, and tein super drift coilovers. With that setup, the coils are at maximum height adjustnent. I'm dropping down to a 255 but I don't think that will come close to alleviating the drop these knuckles are going to add.
I've seen the idea of strut spacers, but in reality how safe will that be?

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I wouldn't think that adding a spacer at the top strut mount would be any less safe than using a wheel spacer, provided that they are properly constructed.
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:43 AM   #7571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyiv View Post
I wouldn't think that adding a spacer at the top strut mount would be any less safe than using a wheel spacer, provided that they are properly constructed.
Didn't think about it that way. I've been searching up either way, and all I've seen is PMB limit break adapters for the front I could use as spacers, but that's it. I've been looking at the manual for super drifts, and didn't find a safe thread engagement limit for the lower brackets. Just hoping I don't have to get new coilovers because of this.

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Old 03-04-2018, 08:38 AM   #7572
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I find that strange as my car is much lower than yours (although I have BC BR coilovers) and my damper is threaded a few inches below the lower mount in the front. I'm stoked for my grip knuckles to arrive so I can correct all that junk.
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Old 03-04-2018, 11:43 AM   #7573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuzzio View Post
I find that strange as my car is much lower than yours (although I have BC BR coilovers) and my damper is threaded a few inches below the lower mount in the front. I'm stoked for my grip knuckles to arrive so I can correct all that junk.
Our coils are different, but that makes sense if your car is lowered a lot more than mine. Then the lower bracket would be moved up the shock body, hence you have a lot of threads under it. Even though I'm not coming close to monster truck status, I didn't think about being out of thread.

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Old 03-04-2018, 02:42 PM   #7574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
Didn't think about it that way. I've been searching up either way, and all I've seen is PMB limit break adapters for the front I could use as spacers, but that's it. I've been looking at the manual for super drifts, and didn't find a safe thread engagement limit for the lower brackets. Just hoping I don't have to get new coilovers because of this.

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You can buy GKtech strut relocation plates, which raise the car about 30mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
Our coils are different, but that makes sense if your car is lowered a lot more than mine. Then the lower bracket would be moved up the shock body, hence you have a lot of threads under it. Even though I'm not coming close to monster truck status, I didn't think about being out of thread.

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PSSSSST, you're going to break those tie rod ends because they're JUNK.
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Old 03-04-2018, 03:05 PM   #7575
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Fuck for real? The gk tech tie rods are shit? Greaaaat. And I saw those, but unfortunately their site states they are not compatible with super drift coils. So idk. I'm gonna have to see how bad it is and how much clearance I need.

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Old 03-05-2018, 08:05 AM   #7576
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Fuck for real? The gk tech tie rods are shit? Greaaaat. And I saw those, but unfortunately their site states they are not compatible with super drift coils. So idk. I'm gonna have to see how bad it is and how much clearance I need.

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Ooops, with the boots on I mistook those for Megan Racing tie rod ends hahaahha.
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Old 03-08-2018, 07:19 PM   #7577
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More Bink Industries sway bar pics added to the OP. I have quite a few suspension bits coming in the mail at this point!
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Old 03-09-2018, 09:07 AM   #7578
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More Bink Industries sway bar pics added to the OP. I have quite a few suspension bits coming in the mail at this point!
Never heard of them. Browsed their site, wish that rack centering spacer would fit a stock set up. Pretty neat idea.
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Old 03-14-2018, 04:35 PM   #7579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
Our coils are different, but that makes sense if your car is lowered a lot more than mine. Then the lower bracket would be moved up the shock body, hence you have a lot of threads under it. Even though I'm not coming close to monster truck status, I didn't think about being out of thread.
for the front coils have you tried flipping the bracket that mounts to the knuckle? it looks like it could give you a few extra mm...

I had to order longer rear coilover mounts from fortune auto (+60mm longer).

I'm anxious to hear what everyone's thoughts are on the GK TECH grip knuckles!
They look promising.
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:08 PM   #7580
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Originally Posted by shaggyjake View Post
for the front coils have you tried flipping the bracket that mounts to the knuckle? it looks like it could give you a few extra mm...

I had to order longer rear coilover mounts from fortune auto (+60mm longer).

I'm anxious to hear what everyone's thoughts are on the GK TECH grip knuckles!
They look promising.
I thought about that, but the welds are on the lower side. The collar would have an uneven clamp on the lower bracket, and probably back off. I'll have to call tein in Downey and see what they can do. I wanted to get them refreshed while I was at it. Also I need new tires, and am going to drop down from a 265/35 r18 down to a 245/35 (wheels are 9.5 square). 9.5 is still in acceptable range of a 245, so hopefully it will help out with some clearance as well.

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Old 03-16-2018, 07:22 AM   #7581
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I thought about that, but the welds are on the lower side. The collar would have an uneven clamp on the lower bracket, and probably back off.


Then put your locking collar on the bottom when you flip the bracket. Iíve run my coils like that for ages.
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:59 PM   #7582
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Quote:
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Depending on your knuckle/LCA/tie rod end combo, you're probably going to need longer tie rods. Here's a nice list of lengths:

89-94 240sx.. 11.10" (m12x1.25)
95-98 240sx.. 11.37"
94-99 maxima 11.42"
96-99 i30...... 11.42"
97-01 Q45..... 12.00" (same with 01-06)
00-04 i30...... 12.91"
99-03 maxima 12.91"
03-08 maxima 13.30" (same with 04-06)
PSM Spherical....12.5"
GKTech spherical 14.5"
Hey, Andy, can we update this on the 1st page with inners and outers?

Inner:
M12x1.25:
11.10" - '89-'94 240sx (S13)
M14x1.5:
11.37" - '95-'98 240sx (S14)
11.42" - '94-'99 Maxima (A32)
11.42" - '96-'99 I30 (A32)
12.00" - '97-'01 Q45 (FY33)
12.00" - '01-'06 Q45 (F50)
12.91" - '99-'03 Maxima (A33)
12.91" - '00-'04 I30 (A33)
13.30" - '03-'08 Maxima (A34)
12.50" - PSM Spherical
14.50" - GKTech Spherical

Outer:
M12x1.25:
x.xx" - '89-'94 240sx (S13)
M14x1.5:
3.63" - '95-'98 240sx (S14)
5.00" - '88-'94 Maxima (J30)
x.xx" - '94-'99 Maxima (A32)


...Something along those lines. Getting longer outers is super helpful in a pinch. I use those 5" Maxima outers on both of my S13s.

If anyone knows of other tie rod lengths or has a correction to make, post it.
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Old 03-16-2018, 02:40 PM   #7583
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Who has actual first hand experience with drastically increasing scrub radius?

I.E running 18x9 +20 front wheels then changing to 18x9 -15 front wheels.

I am curious about steering feel / feedback / entries / drifting.
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:06 PM   #7584
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I tried exactly that for more TC rod / sway bar clearance at full lock. 17x9 +20 with a 35mm spacer.

Even with the spacers, the wheels would still hit the TC/sway, but now with the added downside of rubbing the front and back of the fender going from lock to lock, and also the back of the inner wheel well (firewall).

I didn't even attempt to drive it like that.
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:28 PM   #7585
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For the past few years Iíve been running +56mm FLCAs, PBM drop knuckles, and 16x9 -32 on 225/45s

Super easy steering. Goes where you point it. Self-steers during transfers. Itís great. It damn near drifts itself.

I noticed a huge handling improvement and bumpsteer reduction when switching to those knuckles. 10/10 would recommend, especially for extra low 240s.

Steering clearance is fine now, but it took a good bit of effort. BFH to the rear and upper sections of the wheel wells, completely cut out the front section of the wheel wells, big flares, and longer fender brackets to bow the front of the fender out some.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:28 PM   #7586
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Hey, Andy, can we update this on the 1st page with inners and outers?
Why that's a great idea sir, consider it done!
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Old 03-17-2018, 07:09 AM   #7587
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Jay did u move the rack forward or r u running the spacer that move the tie rod forward? And or the spacers/ bushings for the rack that It forward? I'm getting ready to say fuck it and buy the fraction sub frame, can't seem to stop the rack from moving left to right. Looking into the z33 rack is any one running one?
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Old 03-17-2018, 07:15 AM   #7588
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Jay did u move the rack forward or r u running the spacer that move the tie rod forward? And or the spacers/ bushings for the rack that It forward? I'm getting ready to say fuck it and buy the fraction sub frame, can't seem to stop the rack from moving left to right. Looking into the z33 rack is any one running one?


I just got my Z33 rack. Waiting for my crossmember to come back from the chemical dip before I start mocking up the mounting. It would probably be easiest if you had a 350Z front subframe and could just cut and splice.

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Old 03-17-2018, 09:44 AM   #7589
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Originally Posted by Bnr32gtr View Post
Jay did u move the rack forward or r u running the spacer that move the tie rod forward? And or the spacers/ bushings for the rack that It forward? I'm getting ready to say fuck it and buy the fraction sub frame, can't seem to stop the rack from moving left to right. Looking into the z33 rack is any one running one?


Yes, I relocated the rack forward. Cut n shut subframe, poly bushings.

I had the PBM eccentric rack bushings for a while and has issues with the rack slipping left/right when hitting lock.
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:14 PM   #7590
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Hey, Andy, can we update this on the 1st page with inners and outers?

Inner:
M12x1.25:
11.10" - '89-'94 240sx (S13)
M14x1.5:
11.37" - '95-'98 240sx (S14)
11.42" - '94-'99 Maxima (A32)
11.42" - '96-'99 I30 (A32)
12.00" - '97-'01 Q45 (FY33)
12.00" - '01-'06 Q45 (F50)
12.91" - '99-'03 Maxima (A33)
12.91" - '00-'04 I30 (A33)
13.30" - '03-'08 Maxima (A34)
12.50" - PSM Spherical
14.50" - GKTech Spherical

Outer:
M12x1.25:
x.xx" - '89-'94 240sx (S13)
M14x1.5:
3.63" - '95-'98 240sx (S14)
5.00" - '88-'94 Maxima (J30)
x.xx" - '94-'99 Maxima (A32)


...Something along those lines. Getting longer outers is super helpful in a pinch. I use those 5" Maxima outers on both of my S13s.

If anyone knows of other tie rod lengths or has a correction to make, post it.


Andy, just measured the stock ones off my coupe.

S13 outer is 3.88Ē measured from threaded end to pivot point.

I also have some S14 and 88-94 Maxima outers in my garage. They match up to those quoted numbers. S14 might be 3.69Ē (3-11/16) but thatís splitting hairs.
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