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Old 06-14-2015, 09:29 PM   #1
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Sidewayzz S14 Build

Hey everyone, My name is Chris, some of you may know me as @sidewayzz on Instagram


I've decided to make a build thread for my 2nd S14 Silvia. Before I begin I’ll explain what happened to the first one











In March last year I attended a track day at pukekohe, and during my 3rd or 4th outing the car suddenly 360 spun into the wall around the hair pin causing significant front and rear damage as you would expect hitting a concrete barrier. Luckily passenger and I were fine but the car was a bit worse for wear.




We towed it home and got straight into stripping it apart later that day to assess the damage. Taking off the bent panels one by one the car didn't look as bad but we later discovered that the chassis rail had bent front and rear.












My second worry was that my engine that I just had spent all this time and money on would be wrecked from the crash but everything seemed fine apart from a few bent Intercooler pipes.


I sourced a cheap Intercooler and piping off Trade Me and installed it to see if it still turned over. I checked all the fluids everything was ok so I turned it over thinking the worst, it started first pop and that was a big sigh of relief. I started getting a few quotes from local panel beaters but the price was way too much and sourcing a new shell and swapping everything over was the best option.



A very sad sight and it still hurts to this day but onwards and upwards right guys?





Months flew by of searching for a s14 facelift body and nothing, I was determined to get another S14 so I started gathering bits I needed for the re shell. 5 months later I saw a black s14 pop up for sale and organised to go view it the next day. I went to view it and it was everything I wanted, clean and un molested. The car was a SR20DE and auto but I wasn't too fussed as I had my SR20DET engine and manual setup out of the other car. A deal was made and I picked it up the next day.








I drove it home with a annoyingly loud fart cannon of an exhaust complete with edaboc stickers on the rear window. I got home and took off the stickers and removed the fart cannon exhaust and swapped it for the factory item the previous owner gave me.


I think the previous owner tried to tuck this exhaust against the subframe. Very weird..



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I continued to drive it as is for around 5 weeks while saving money and planning what I was going to do with this new car. I started by contacting Alex from Moonlight Racing and ordered an Origin Lab Stylish Body kit and 20mm front fenders.









I moved the wrecked S14 to the yard to I could start to dis assemble it.








I started with the engine and gearbox









First I drained all the fluids and removed all intercooler piping and radiator. Next was to disconnect all the wiring and hoses connected to the engine etc..










Next it was time to strap the engine up and remove the engine mount bolts, support the gearbox with a jack and remove the gearbox cross member. Then we slowly started to lift the engine and gearbox out checking for anything connected to the engine. Everything was free and out it came











The next day I took off the bell housing bolts to remove gearbox as I was selling it because I'll be upgrading, and to check out the condition of the flywheel and clutch.


This is what the clutch looks like. Pretty toast right? I'll be replacing this with a new item but am un decided on what one at the moment.








Next to come out was the dash, centre console, door trims, centre climate control, steering wheel, quick release, ecu etc.. Everything inside came out so I could swap it all over












Onto the subframe next, the driveshaft was already removed so it was simply removing calipers and tie them out of the way, undo the lower coilover bolt, remove handbrake cable brackets, support the subframe with the jack and undo the bolts holding the subframe and slowly lowering it down with the jack.








Next was removing the whole front crossmember including brakes/ rotors/ suspension


















I scavenged a few more things from it and at this stage it was a stripped shell sitting on stands.







I picked up a Fenix Radiator to replace that old China one along with a GK Tech fan and NRG air diversion panel. A skid plate was also bought to protect the sump








At this time it was around mid October and I took a break and went along to World Time Attack in Sydney. While there i managed to pick up some GK Tech braided brake lines and an hks oil filler cap







1 week later it was time to head back to Auckland and get started on the tear down of S14 v2. It was time for s14v2 to join s14v1 in the shed.







I drove it in thinking about when I could drive it next cause I know it was a long road ahead. It was the last time it would ever be driven NA/ and 4 stud and that got me excited.



Just like S14v1 I started with the engine.







There was a lot more room that the SR20DET and working around it was a breeze. I started by draining all the fluids. Next it was time to remove all the intake side and radiator.








I disconnected all the wiring and hoses attached to the engine and strapped up the engine for removal.







The auto gear stick inside had to come out in order for the box to come out.




I supported the auto box with a jack and removed the crossmember. After removing the engine mount bolts the SR20DE was ready to come out. Slowly bringing it up we checked for any wires/ hoses still attached to the engine, it all was free so out it came.











Next up was the R180 subframes turn to come out. I won’t go into much detail for this as it was exactly the same procedure as the r200 subframe out of s14v1.







The Interior of s14v2 was pretty average, the dash was cracked in 2 places and the centre console/ gearbox surround was painted very poorly.











This was no problem for me as I had all the mint stuff out of s14v1 to swap over. I started by removing both side door cards, centre console, climate control and stereo etc.. Next was removing the dash cluster then undoing all the bolts holding the dash in place. I also removed all the rear seats and rear ¼ trims as they were not needed anymore.


















The front crossmember was unboleted and removed as one including all hubs/rotors/ and coilovers still attatched



At this stage this is how it sat with everything removed




Last edited by EVLS14; 06-17-2015 at 01:21 AM..
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:25 AM   #2
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** Double post** Deleted

Last edited by EVLS14; 06-24-2015 at 09:28 PM.. Reason: double post
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:47 PM   #3
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For this build I wanted to give the interior more attention. I started by removing the sound deadening as I wanted a cleaner look and it also saves a bit of weight too. Last time I did sound deadening was last year at Tech and that was the good old hammer and chisel way. This time I opted for the more time efficient way by using dry ice. I went down to BOC and got 7kg of dry ice for around $40







I prepared the car by removing any wiring around where the dry ice was going to be laid and gave it a quick clean







I got my little spade out and started putting the dry ice over the sound deadening. Around 3 or 4 minutes later you'll hear a crackling sound and you'll know its working. I let it sit and crackle on for around 10m.




I removed the dry ice and stared to pry it with a flat head and the whole bit lifted up as one piece







The rear seat floor deadning came out nice and simple as one whole piece while the rest of the car needed chisel and hammering to get it off



















Working underneath the car all the time got me really got me annoyed at how untidy and dirty the underside of the car was



















I really had to give it a good freshen up so decided to underseal the entire underbody of the car. Having everything already removed made this easier and I could give it a nice even coat throughout the entire under body.

I started by cleaning the underbody thoroughly with wax and grease remover to have a nice clean surface to spray. After all the clean-up I started spraying the underseal and it instantly started looking better. I used around 6 cans and that gave a nice even coat throughout



















Since the underbody was getting a freshen up I thought the subframe could do with some work too. I removed the diff, sway bar and all the suspension arms and was left with a bare subframe




The old OEM bushes were pretty toast so they had to go. Usually people burn them out but you have to cut the sleeve anyway so I used an air body saw. When you're cutting out the bush make sure you cut against the most reinforced part of the subframe, make sure you don't cunt into it but it's alright to scratch it








After you have cut the sleeve get a flat head screw driver and tap it out. They should look like this when you remove them

















I de greased the subframe and sent it away to Pro Coat for powder coat







I went for a lucent ruby colour, this is a silver with a ruby over the top. Cheers to Pro Coat for the awesome job








Last year I was browsing for a new set of wheels on yahoo japan and came across some really nice Work Meister S1R for sale that i had to have







I contacted Alex from Moonlight Racing and he got bidding and a few hours later I was the owner of genuine Work Wheels. They were packed in the half yearly containers coming into NZ and arrived around 5 months later in May 2014. A very long wait but we'll worth it







Since the car has no rear subframe at the moment I just test fit them on the jack to see how you would look. What do you guys reckon?? I can't wait till it's sitting on these











The old suspension setup in s14v1 consisted of BC Gold coilovers and a range of unknown branded suspension arms including camber, toe and front caster. These were all sold excluding the toe arms as they bent in the crash



New parts were bought from the Parts Shop Max catalog and this included Pro Coilovers, Knuckles, lower control arm/ tension rod combo, rear camber, toe arms, traction arms and rear lower control arms













S14v1 was running a locked diff for 3 years with no problems at all, I knew that one day it would give up or it would break an axel so it was time for an upgrade. I went for a complete r32 gtr rear end setup including the r32 diff, 6x1 axles, hubs as the splines are bigger, hub carriers and handbrake lines




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Old 06-18-2015, 11:53 AM   #4
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yesssss it got approved its keebin !!
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:03 AM   #5
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yesssss it got approved its keebin !!
Yeah finally man haha
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:48 PM   #6
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Nice build!

Enviado desde mi HUAWEI MT7-L09 mediante Tapatalk
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:09 PM   #7
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The engine bay was going to get a fresh lick of paint so everything was removed








Since the car was just a shell sitting on stands I had to get it rolling again to send it to the paint shop.




All new Parts Shop Max arms were installed and the subframe was now ready to go back in. I chose to use the locked diff out of v1 to get it rolling as I wanted to get the gtr diff powder coated before putting it in.


















Excuse the camber arms bring installed the wrong way, I later came to realise that they were wrong when the coilover started hitting them so they were removed and installed correctly.









The car was equipped with a half cage













Next up was the fronts turn to get rolling again. I started by bolting the front crossmember in place and installing the new Parts Shop Max arms and coilovers.














With the new steering setup the factory tie rods were not going cut it so new Parts Shop Max tie rods and GK tech tie rod ends were ordered.









You can see here the difference between the factory one and the new one.









My D-Max carbon bonnet arrived just in time. Thanks to Alex at Moonlight Racing.








Finally after around 6 weeks in the shed the S14 was finally down on all four again.














Next day was time for s14v2 to go for a trip to GT Refinishers for Grant and the team to work their magic









The car finally made it and it was time for the fun bit, of choosing what colour to paint it the engine bay and roll cage. After a few moments discussing with Grant we were set on a colour.




Here's a little teaser

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Old 06-26-2015, 07:10 AM   #8
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Got the car back from GT Refinishers last Thursday, here's how it turned out




The engine bay and roll cage received a fresh coat of House of Kolor candy apple red with a silver flake, while the interior got a fresh lick of saturn black. There is actually a lot of flake in the red, these photos don’t do it justice you really need to see it in person. I’ll get some more pictures up when its outside













After it was flow coated


















Fitment of the kit and bonnet went well, only thing was the fenders were a little off so we decided to go with custom OEM single vent front fenders.



Finally got the car home












Here's the bit you all are probably waiting for. What does it look like? Here you go haha





























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Old 06-30-2015, 06:59 AM   #9
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With the exterior all done and the car not needing any more out sourced work done at the moment it was time to put the S14 back on stands again.






First the rear subframe came out, the diff needed to be changed to the new R32 GTR setup. With everything all nice and tidy underneath the car the diff needed a good tidy up.







I started by stripping the whole diff completely of the internals and got it sent out to my trusty paint shop, GT Refinishers. I couldn't get any pictures of the process as my phone died.







A couple of days later it was ready to pick up, I chose a gun metal diff body, half shafts, shields and a silver backing plate which was taken from the old locked diff.



















I got onto assembling it back and here's what it looks like in one piece.







Next up it was time to fill it up with some fresh Motul oil and install the solid parts shop max diff bushes.











The problem with running the R32 GTR 6 bolt axles was that the splines are quite larger than the factory ones as you can see below so you need to run R32 GTR hubs as well.







Axles new vs old.















While the subframe was out I decided to purchase some GK Tech drop knuckles to complete the rear end puzzle







Since I'm running a r33 gts25t rear brake setup all the drum set up had to be removed and transferred to the new knuckles with the R32 GTR hubs



Sorry I didn't get any pictures of this process as my phone had died



Next up it was time to fit the knuckle to the subframe, this is usually a pretty easy job but I soon found out it wasn't as easy as i thought. Since GK Tech have changed the geometry, the suspension pickup points have changed from factory as well. This means it's like a jig saw puzzle fitting it to the subframe.



The traction arm pickup is very close to the brake calliper tabs as you can see in the picture, for a while I struggled to figure out how to get the nut in there.







Since the pillow balls swivel you have to remove the traction arm from the subframe, swivel the pillow ball so you can slide the bolt through and get the nut on, and then put the subframe side on.











Next up it was time to put the beefy GTR axles in, the two axles are different lengths, the longer one goes on the right (drivers side) and the shorter one goes on the left (passanger side)







Time to put the subframe again for the last time (I hope)







Got it all in and damn the hub looked close to the guard. I decided to put a wheel on and see how much the drop knuckles had lowered the car



Here's the result, nearly tucking still jacked up and sitting hard on the wheels lip when on the ground, might need to raise it a few mm






Next up, Power Brace!



The front caster arms are prone to bending on a lowered car especially when loading and unloading cars off a trailer.











One thing I wanted to do was get gusset and brace them. The underside of the caster arm brackets received a dimple die gusset and it was also power braced, this would ensure the caster arms wouldn't bend and provide some frontal rigidity too.




















After it was completed it got a fresh coat of gloss black to keep it nice tidy



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Old 07-04-2015, 02:26 PM   #10
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Good progress subscribed
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:01 PM   #11
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I follow you on IG. Quite a labor of love you have done for this car. Happy to see an accident didn't stop you!
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:44 PM   #12
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Holy shit. Great progress. Car looks amazing.
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:50 AM   #13
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Car is looking fantastic man. Keep up the detail oriented work!
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Old 07-05-2015, 03:35 AM   #14
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Looks sick. Keep up the good work.
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:24 AM   #15
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Thank you for the kind words everyone
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:29 AM   #16
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For a while now I've been trying to track down a mint S15 dash. Finally after some searching I found one around an hour away from me. It was a complete setup so it was hard to pass so I took the trip up north next weekend





Here's the difference between s14 and s15 dash if you're not too familiar with them





Time to test fit
Since the S15 dash is a 2 piece setup it's a breeze to fit, especially around the steering column. Here's what the first test fit looked like, looks WAY nicer in my opinion




As some of you may know it's not a simple bolt on thing, the mounting points are a bit off and brackets will need to be made. The main problem is door cards, S14 ones do not fit because the door can't close, the door cards hit the vent area, these will need to be modified later on. S15 ones also dont fit, they're longer and the door handle is in a different position








The callipers were still in the factory colour, so I decided to get them painted the same colour as the engine bay and roll cage. Also picked up a second pair to run a twin calliper setup soon








The steering rack bushes were never changed in my ownership, it was time to get some new ones so I got some super pro ones off the driftworks store, here's some pics of old vs new, these should reduce the slop











Job complete
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:35 AM   #17
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Makes me wish they made LHD s15...
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:42 PM   #18
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Next up, The heart of this thing

For this build I wanted to make the engine stronger to 1) make more power and 2) be more reliable.


I went down to my tuner Soichi from ST Hitec to discuss the upgrade options. At first I was looking at forged Pistons, Conrod and some camshafts. I got soichi to price me up some forged bottom end components and we quickly came to realize that going another option would be best. It was time to setup the game and go 2.2! After some discussing the decision was made to order a Tomei 2.2L stroker kit from Japan.





This includes forged Pistons, forged Conrod and a forged crankshaft. Exciting stuff





















To save on shipping on customs charges we decided to order the head stuff as well. Once again Tomei was the choice. We ended up getting Tomei pro cams (solid type), solid lifters, valve springs, titanium retainers and oversized valves





Tomei gear arrived in around 2 weeks and it was time to start stripping the SR20


Engine disassembly:


First up was the intake plenum's turn, this is a 2 piece design as some of you may know. I won't into much detail on removal as its pretty simple stuff.











I had already removed the exhaust manifold, and injectors to sell earlier, the rest was still un touched so it was time to get stuck into it





Camshafts next, rotate the crankshaft to tdc at #1 piston, to see if this is correct there is markers on the pulley, it will be the 2nd one to the left, Loosen cam sprocket bolts, these are a 25 and 24mm I'm pretty sure. Remove the cam chain tensioner, remove chain guide and sprocket bolts you loosened earlier. Evenly undo the cam cap bolts, I did it in 3 steps. Remove cams





Head removal, im using ARP head studs and since they use imperial I had to go out and buy the right one. ARP use a 12 point 1/2 imperial socket for the head studs. These are torqued on quite tight so you may need a big breaker bar with some good leverage. I ended up using my jack pole.




Make sure you undo these bolts in the right sequence otherwise you can wrap your head, once again these need to be loosened in stages, I did around 3-4.


Remove like this





Head off





So far so good, although I'm not going to being using much of the factory stuff everything seems to be in good order
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:48 PM   #19
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Hello block.. She's pretty dirty haha











Headgasket off and Head studs out











Let's turn it over and get this greddy sump off







Sump off, oil pickup etc off







Undo oil pump bolts and remove



Removed main bearing beam, Loosen in the same sequence as the head, Loosen in 2-3 steps











Remove Main caps



Undo rod bolts and remove connecting rods



Carefully remove Pistons and rods as one, lift out crank and remove bearings











Removed oil jets










All looking good bores seem to be good, blocks just a bit dirty. Time for a clean




































Got the block outside the next morning, sprayed some de greeser and got scrubbing



























Didn't turn out too bad, I'll leave the rest up to the machine shop























Block is now at the machine shop getting darton sleeved and head is off getting ported and polished
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:18 AM   #20
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No update for 4 months, don't worry I haven't given up, im still hard at it!



I ordered a few bits for the rebuild, Got a full OEM Nissan gasket kit and new oil pump/ front cover










The block was going to get sleeved and head get ported and polished. My choice for the machine work was Mazworx, being based half way around the world I knew this was a bit of a hassle but their work speaks for itself and they were a great bunch of people to deal with




It was time to pack up the head, block and parts to send over to Florida








Just speaking the truth








While the bits were off for machining I saw some genuine chargespeed overfenders pop up for sale, they were off the C's garage S14 drift car. I liked this style alot but they cost quite a lot to import being quite large. I chose to quickly snap them up, although I'll keep stock body for now I'll keep them for a later date











Went along to pick them up, plenty of inspiration around here











Did a quick test fit, they go quite nicely with the stock body lines

















Some new suspension bits came up from Parts Shop Max, they had a 2015 RLCA and Camber arms and I couldn't stand having the old ones so they were sold




I picked up the new 2015 RLCA and RUCA











New vs old RUCA










Old vs new RLCA















Installed
















I think I can tick suspension off the box now























Engine updates coming shortly
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Old 11-18-2015, 12:42 AM   #21
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Damn man! Car is looking great!!! That's A LOT of work!
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:12 PM   #22
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Great write up man! Looks stellar!
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:54 PM   #23
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God damn... Beautiful
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:07 PM   #24
yomisiu
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yomisiu is making a name for him/her selfyomisiu is making a name for him/her selfyomisiu is making a name for him/her self
Feedback Score: 16 reviews
wow... awesome
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:57 AM   #25
1988montecarloss
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1988montecarloss is a jewel in the rough1988montecarloss is a jewel in the rough1988montecarloss is a jewel in the rough1988montecarloss is a jewel in the rough1988montecarloss is a jewel in the rough1988montecarloss is a jewel in the rough1988montecarloss is a jewel in the rough
Feedback Score: 24 reviews
this car is perfect

wow
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:28 AM   #26
EVLS14
 
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Thank you everyone!
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:29 AM   #27
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Time to build the engine


Couple of bits to clean, greddy sump, upper oil pan, and some other bits for the rebuild








This gasket stripper worked a charm











Bit better, needs more elbow grease haha



















Head and block were back from Mazworx





The head had recieved stage 2 porting and polishing and a few other bits done, I won't go into the full extent of this



Intake before:



After:



Exhaust before:



After:




The block had darton sleeves installed and a few other bits done for some of the new hardware to work













My bearings of choice was Nismo







Nissan oil pickup





Nissan water pump








Nissan vct sprocket







Ati super damper










Apex headgasket










Genuine Nissan cam chain kit











Mazworx cam chain tensioner












Now I had everything needed to assemble the long block it was time to build this thing
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:38 AM   #28
EVLS14
 
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All loaded up ready to build








Realized I was missing one bit to complete the short block so some acl thrust washers were ordered









Bearings in, main studs and oil squriters/jets installed









2.2 stroker crank and main caps in









Chain, crank sprocket, key, bolts etc on









Pistons and rods assembled and installed




Girdle torqued down










Oil pickup, baffle plate installed














Front cover/ oil pump on










Headstuds in and headgasket on



Heads turn







Vavles, lifters, rockers, cams all in,














Rocker cover on (yes that is my rocker cover haha) Ben at GT Refinishers did this for me, I was not told a thing about this, the only thing I was informed about was that he'll be using pastel colours, the rest was a secret. It ended up with something pretty unique and I actully like it












Excuse the dirty water inlet, that'll be replaced

Long block complete. Intake and exhaust side updates coming shortly
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:19 PM   #29
truckmtrS13
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 200
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truckmtrS13 is a jewel in the roughtruckmtrS13 is a jewel in the roughtruckmtrS13 is a jewel in the roughtruckmtrS13 is a jewel in the roughtruckmtrS13 is a jewel in the roughtruckmtrS13 is a jewel in the roughtruckmtrS13 is a jewel in the rough
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
nice build. Always dig s1r's.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:24 PM   #30
RB180sxChris
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Feedback Score: 17 reviews
awesome build man!
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