Mannykiller's Fd Street/Drift build

[drscooper]

very nice man looking great!

[Mannykiller]

Little Update:

so I was able to finish removing the Sound deadening with the dry ice. I used 1 block the first day, and got 2 more blocks the second day. Some people have reported using 60-100 Lbs of dry ice to complete this? ....I don't know about all that..but I had a pretty good method which I'll explain real quick.

Sound Deadening Removal with Dry Ice:

You will need the following:

* 3-5 Blocks of Dry Ice (most readily found at Albertsons grocery store)
* A flat headed Chisel
* A Rubber Mallet or hammer if your ghetto and angry lol
* A good set of decently thick gloves (required for my method because I use the Dry ice in more than one location.

Method:
Once everything is clear from the sound deadening areas.....

step 1 - Put a block of dry ice into a couple plastic bags and keep it in it's package.

step 2 - Smash it on the ground till all the big pieces are small and a lot of it is granule sized

step 3 - Spread the dry ice powder/small pieces over designated sound deadening. Thoroghly cover it as depcted in the pic below:

the better you cover it the easier/quicker it will start creaking and cracking.

step 5 - wait till the sound deadening starts creaking and cracking (this is how you know it is working because it is contracting from the change in temperature and seperating from the floor panel)

step 6 - Hit the sound deading evenly pretty hard but not hard enough to dent the floor panel.... all over it. You will hear either a dull thud..which prob means you need to wait longer or you will hear a slight "slapping" sound which means the sound deadening has lifted from the floor pan and is ready to be chizeled. The longer you wait...(5 min compared to 10-12 min) the easier the deadening comes up and in larger pieces. Believe me it's worth the patience.

step 7 - put your gloves on (they should already be on this whole time) and move the dry ice to the next panel of sound deadening. While you pull this one off the left over dry ice can be used more than once on a different location =-)

step 8 - Use the flat headed chizel working at a broad edge and tap it with the rubber mallet. If you covered the deadening good enough with dry ice and let it sit for long enough the whole panel should just pop off in 1-3 or 4 big pieces. If it's breaking in tiny pieces.. re-cover with dry ice and wait longer.

step 9 - For the lateral areas where the sound deading does not sit on a flat level surface...put dry ice in a plastic bag and I used mounting holes and existing bolts and screws to just "hang" the bag against these areas. It worked like a charm...just had to wait a few min more.

step 10 - Use Mineral spirits or brake cleaner to get the left over goo off of the floor pan or any areas the sound deadening left residue.

Other than that...don't get frustrated. A few areas I was just trying to get little pieces off and ended up digging into the floor panel a little bit with my chizel.

[Mannykiller]

Also little update:

Finished removing the sound deading from the interior of the car

Here is a quick pic before I removed the goo like tar stuff left from the Deadening but you get the Idea


So after forcing myself to wait till round 2 of the build (to paint and do the Fd legal Cage) I can re-install the Dash and start looking to build a little guage/switch panel for my oil cooler fans etc.

Also... you know sometimes when you don't know what to do so you start messing with things?...well I didn't like how little thread was on my turbo flange stud/nut so I was went to remove it to even the thread spacing/nut coverage out and the damn thing snapped just backing it out. I was like...son of a B.. But I guess better now than later. Also ran into a small problem. The manifold support brace is a little too close to the stud nut.. it doesn't allow me to get a socket around it...which is annoying. It's just a tad off so I'm going to take a dremel to it today to get the extra space needed to get the socket around it. Also need to go pick up a new stud now. Cleaned and Vacuumed out the interior and it looks much better. Sucks that I have to leave it all blotchy like this till I paint/POR-15 the interior But I need to get the car running sooner than later. Paint and cage can waite a month or so.

Also recieved my fan clips for my Oil Cooler Fans....Thanks so much to John at Mishimoto for taking care of me!!!!!
More updates later today

[Mannykiller]

Little Update:

Tomei Differential gear oil and Torco friction modifier along with Brake and Power steering fluid came in yesterday. Filled the power steering up, Filled the Brake res up and Half Bled the brakes just to get fluid into the lines until I have someone to help me bleed the system thoroughly, and Filled the Differential fluid. I used a bottle with some old Fuel line attatched with a worm clamp on the plastic cap to fill the diff up. Worked excellent and didn't spill a drop.

and here's a pic of the interior after being vacuumed and wiped down with Brake cleaner


More updates soon!

[Mannykiller]

small update: nothing big...

But I started to bleed the clutch but realized it was pointless without an extra person. I actually used the gusset holes in the frame on the floor and a metal bar to start bleeding the brakes but it just took too long and was a hell of a process so I ended up quitting pre-materly haha. I'll just wait till someone can step on the pedal and I can sit under the car on the bleeder.

So I need to go over a couple Vacuum diagrams to figure out exactly how i'm going to run my vacuum block lines to it etc. Here's a pic of it. E-bay special.. saved about 25 bucks over the next option and this one came with all these fittings, mounting hardware and extra plugs etc



And lastly...I noticed a small little puddle of fluid under the car and had no idea where it was coming from until I followed it all the way up the drivers side trans tunnel and found the source...Brake fluid. Seems as if the new hose I put on the clutch pedal side of the brake resevoir wasn't tight enough with the generic clamp. I should've put a worm clamp on it from the beginning..so I did and fixed that. I guess it's a good thing it's taking a little bit to get the car finished because it gives the car and all my mistakes time to surface hah.

So I have a diagram for the boost control solenoid to wastegates But i'n gonna need to talk to the wird about exactly how to hook up the synapse gates for optimum consistency.

ALso what do you guys think about this for my Vacuum block routing.

UIM Port to Vacuum Block via largest of 2 ports (-10 in size)
2nd -10 Port on Vacuum Block to Brake Booster Check valve fitting

Vacuum Block small ports:
BOV
Map Sensor
AEM Water/Meth Controller

And i'm unsure if I should add a port on the back of the turbo compressor housing as another source. Or if I should run the Wastegates to the block or to the boost solenoid seperately.

Any Input would be very appreciated!! thanks guys!

[Mannykiller]

Small Update:

So I didn't get the brakes bled.. But I did end up going to see Meshuggah and Animals as Leaders on Saturday night... Hell of a show.
Meshuggah

Animals as Leaders


onto work done on the car though...

Not sure if I posted this already But I got a vacuum block off E-bay. It was 25 bucks shipped and came with extra port plugs, and mounting gear etc. Next closest option was twice as much....So I took a chance and i'm glad I did because the piece is nice..the fittings are nice and sturdy as well and I saved 20 bucks.
Vacuum block

Mounted to Firewall

Hooked up one of the larger ports to the Brake booster Check Valve I got from summit (thanks Colin)

And i'm still looking for a neat place to put the AEM water meth controller... ran the Vac line to the block.

drilled and tapped the compressor housing and used one of the extra vacuum fittings that came with the block. used a 1/8 tap. Wish there were a little bit neater place to run the Line to the Boost Control Solenoid but it was this or running the line too close for comfort next to the turbo hot side.

Ran Fuel Pressure Regulator and BOV vac as well. I'm going to label the Vacuum block so I know which line goes where, .....it's super obvious but just for piece of mind. I also used Honda-Bond high temp rtv on all the fittings I used on the Vacuum block and also Zip Tied all the Lines on the fittings just to make sure none of them pop off unexpectedly.

And here's a pic of the AEM boost control Solenoid mounted. Used the little left over tab on the passenger side firewall. W/G lines ran and T'd to the Boost control solenoid via instructions. Running the gates with the Internal routing as A few people have told me this worked best for the gates.


Need to run the ecu vac line when I install the Adaptronic and I'll have 2 Ports on the Vac block left. One for the Boost gauge and the other will be extra. So i'll plug it with one of the supplied allen plugs. The AEM coils came in from Chris Ludwig and he did an excellent job on the Harness. I just need to come up with a nice way to mount it. I like the idea of having the coils all in line but at the same time I'd like them to be packaged a little more compact. We'll see. Going to work on that in the next couple days along with the Body Harness.

[Thmotorsports]

This is awesomely epic!

[turbo2nr]

attention to detail is awesome cant wait to see/hear it fire up!

[Mannykiller]

Small update:

Got all my idemitsu products in. Transmission oil, Motor Oil, Pre-mix

Nice to have a little back stock. I have enough pre-mix for a looooong time haha. Full case of it! Enough oil for another 2 changes as well. And enough diff fluid for the break in and first change.

Pic of the TPS sensor...guess I could've had some raychem put on it..but kinda slipped my mind in the jist of getting a lot of things done at once...

ANd put on the Full Function Engineering Triggger wheel. Still need to install the rest of it though.

So last night I was in bed... not able to eat and decided to eat a bowl of cereal. Good ol' captain cruch berries. Ate the cereal and decided I wasn't tired. Suited up and filled the Transmission up with fluid, Motor up with Oil and even filled up my oil coolers so I won't have to top it off as much. With the dual 25 Row Mocal coolers and lines my bone dry system drank 4 full quarts and i'm estimating it'll hold another 1/3rd quart in my lines.

Hey quick Question....what size TAP is the OEM IAT sensor? going to tap the UIM for it today. Also... I read that "dudemananswer" was selling fast reacting IAT's for cheap... anyone know if he's still around?

Moving along!...updates soon!

[spooled240]

I think his name is dudeownsanrx7 or something, but I hit him up on rx7club not too long ago and he quoted me $100 for a plug n play kit if I remember correctly.

how much premix are you planning on running? 1oz to 1 gallon?

[D.Adams]

Aaron .. I love you all homo .. I want that sweet ass of yours

[Mannykiller]

^ yes I'm going to be using 1oz per gal.

Dan... I'm going to win the fighting bracket with my WWF/UFC style quotes. I'll excite the population and create a revolution style following till I win the final fight!!

[Mannykiller]

Small Update:

Trigger kit completely installed with new bracket and pick-up!! can't wait to see the difference! The Adaptronic plug in select teamed up with the Full Function Engineering Trigger wheel should make for a huge improvement in power delivery...should be night and day smoothness wise!!

Sake Bomb Garage Custom Plug wires... They should be doing an actual group buy of these bad boys pretty soon here!! I'll have to give you guys the low down on them when I get a little more free time!


My side skirts came in. Bodykits.com had them for pretty cheap....and yes by pretty cheap I mean bloody hell they fit like "pretty cheap." I mean wow they're warped...and about a inch shorter than they should be in the wrong places and an inch longer than they should be in other places.. this may be a nightmare haha.

From the front....

Also going to test fit them with the Burnout front fenders to see which one I like better. But I'm liking the Feed fitement/look so far.

And this is where I left off for the night..."motor assembly wise."
TPS installed
Throttlebody Installed with AEM Water/meth nozzle
Throttle cable installed..may need a new cable..this one is crap
Drilled and tapped UIM for IAT and installed
All engine Harness plugs now fit and are installed on correct plugs
trigger wheel kit installed
Vac-block fully sealed up with one extra plug and port for ECU ready
Sake Bomb Garage Plug wires installed to coils but still need mounting bracket


So today I'll install my ECU and put the dash back in the car, and get started on the worst part.. the body harness wiring. Going to hate this entirely. Wish I had someone to come help me with this part...not looking forward to it in any way.

More Updates soon

[turbo2nr]

man you put in some work! makes me want to go work on my build!

i would be interested in some of tho sake bomb wires for my ls coil setup. coming together nicely.

what color are you doing the exterior??

[Thmotorsports]

this makes me want to get a FD so bad!

[Mannykiller]

Originally Posted by turbo2nr

man you put in some work! makes me want to go work on my build!

i would be interested in some of tho sake bomb wires for my ls coil setup. coming together nicely.

what color are you doing the exterior??

Yea I think a lot of people really don't understand how long all the little things take on a build. I mean you can have all the new parts all day long...but it's the little things that take time. I'm still not so impressed with how i've routed a few things and wish I could re-do them. Stuff like drilling and tapping the UIM for the IAT sensor. Well it's not just drilling and tapping. Its taking the manifold off the car, matching the sensor with the correct Tap, finding the correct drill. Drilling the manifold without scratching the eff out of it on a secure surface. Measureing how much play you'll have from your wiring harness to the sensor so you don't tap the hole too far away for the harness to reach. So mocking up the manifold again. Making a mark. Then drilling, then tapping, then really really cleaning the manifold because there can't be any little shavings or pieces of metal inside the manifold otherwise your brand new engine will eat them and possibly ruin everything. After the cleaning it's finally time to install the sensor. I use honda bond high temp rtv on the threads of the IAT sensor to ensure there are no leaks. Install it, make sure it's nice and toight. Then finding a nice neat route to the hole so your harness isn't overlapping a million hosses etc.. plug the sensor in and then install the UIM. All while making sure not to drop anything big or small into the Lower Intake manifold ports because they are completely open all the way till the rotor housing (remember no valves). Anything falls in there and game over. Not to rant..because I actually enjoy all the steps that go into such a small task of installing a IAT sensor into an aftermarket UIM that doesn't have a port. But These little things take time. Just the sensor install took me about 45 min. And then On top of that you run into tiny little hiccups.. such as the fact that the LIM rear most bolt hole happened to strip out halfway (baught it used and previous owner must've used a bolt that was too short). But everything takes time.... It's something you don't think about when you first start building a car, or people who have never attempted larger installs, motor swaps, or builds themselves don't think about. It's just... put the turbo on and start itup. Nahhh....lots of stuff that goes into it. But I love it all... and believe me I'm on it.... Hoping to making this years Thunder on the Lot Drift (mick Friel's) event and ASB!!! Updates soon!


- Aaron Parker

P.s.....the rest of the car will be JET Black =-) hard to beat.. and not too many all black cars around these days =-)

[Mannykiller]

Originally Posted by Thmotorsports

this makes me want to get a FD so bad!

Nothing stopping you. But I'll tell you right now everything is so much mroe expensive for fds. For instance... I wanted to get some craft square mirrors. The FD units were some 600 dollars when I was looking into them. The same EXACT mirrors but for a Honda CRX were 350.00 Shipped. I got the CRX mirrors and retro-fitted them as the mount was only slightly different...but I saved 250 bucks. On top of that...I don't think there is another more expensive car out there as far as OEM parts. Get them from Mazda direct...and you'll be Bankrupt. A new engine wiring harness will cost you around 950-1100. And the Harnesses have been sitting since 93-95..so some of them are still crispy just from being 20 years old. Yea new parts..but plastic can only sit for so long without loosing tensil strength ya know? It's all stuff that needs to be taken into consideration. I wouldn't go back on the build and I absolutely Love this car beyond reason and don't think i'd ever sell it. But Fd's are expensive...hahaha..very expensive. On another note...I looked into some aftermarket adjustable rear end arms... for trailing arms and lower control arm using a clevis instead of bushings the guy wants 700+ without shipping. Pfft....thats just too much. I'm not even kidding you...I could realistically make the units..and make Quality units for around 300 in Materials. But thats just a rant... onot the build!! updates soon!

- Ap

[spooled240]

I have some replica cwest skirts if those don't work

man this thread is convincing me to keep my fd..

[Mannykiller]

Anyways....

Status update: Nothing

So friday and saturday were very frustrating for me. So first I started on engaging the Throw out to the Pressure plate. Well...when I was having trouble pushing it far enough into the pressure plate for it to "snap" in. So I got top side of the motor and removed the drivers side view cover on the transmission and ......SOB. I dropped the bolt that holds the thin view plate into the transmission. And worse..it went on the motor side of the flywheel. I lost my Retracting magnet tool a loooong time ago so I'll have to find another one and bend it up to try and get it out. So thats a bummer... So I couldnt figure out why the t/o bearing wouldn't engage to the pressure plate. So I decided to take a break. Then i spent the next 4 hours bleeding the brakes...to no avail. After hours with a buddy of mine working the pedal I realized my little Vac hose on the bleeder side had a hole in it and I had been sucking in air the whole time. Stupid me...should've been using a clear hose the entire time instead of black vac hose wher eyou couldn't see anything but bubbles escape. So then I said eff it..i'll move onto something else and go back to bleeding the brakes another day. So I went to open my drivers side door and the worst crap ever happened... And everyone that it's happened to knows exactly why it sucks so bad. Damn Drivers side door handle gave and gave and let go... the Infamous door handle problem. I did my passenger side and drivers side sooo long ago..and I have both metal handles but the linkage is just crap. So after not getting the clutch engaged,...brakes bled, and the door handle breaking... I took my gloves off...didn't even clean up as I do every time i'm done working on the car, closed the garage door and turned the lights off in the garage and said I'm done for the weekend. Sometimes its just best to admit defeat and save it for another day...because it was one of those days.


I guess I forgot to post some of these pics though. I got my Side skirts in and was able to mock up the feed fenders and the burnout fenders with them. I'm glad I got the chance to try out both sets of fenders with the skirts because it would've made the difference in looks IMO.

So here is what it looked like with the feed fenders vs Burnout fenders:
Feed fenders

Burnout fenders

Feed fenders

Burnout fenders

feed

Burnout

And THIS was the angle that did it for me and made me go with the Burnout Fenders. As you can see the feed fenders....despite the fact that they are +20 vs the feeds + 25.....stick out and match my rear over fenders much better. From the rear the car looks much more squared off front to rear...which In my opinion makes the car look more track oriented rather than Huge rear over fenders.....and smaller fronts with the feed fenders (more of a drag look IMO).
Feed..still look good....but I just like the burnout better =-)

Burnout (Winning Ticket)


I'll get started back on the brakes/clutch/harness today! More updates soon!

[ryandriftingfat]

Originally Posted by Mannykiller

Anyways....
So after not getting the clutch engaged,...brakes bled, and the door handle breaking... I took my gloves off...didn't even clean up as I do every time i'm done working on the car, closed the garage door and turned the lights off in the garage and said I'm done for the weekend. Sometimes its just best to admit defeat and save it for another day...because it was one of those days.

Smart man.

[di-devol]

Your wastegate pipes are sooo awesome, I was think about throwing mine through the hood as well.

And I know the feeling of just taking a break. Looking so good dude.

[Mannykiller]

Thanks guys! Yea I totally didn't want to ruin more because I was frustrated. You know sometimes when things like that happen it's because we get frustrated and start rushing things or doing things without thinking. I have an update for today..I'll type it out asap.

[Mannykiller]

Update:

So last night went a hell of a lot better than fri/sat.

Turns out the throw out bearing wouldn't click in because the slave cylinder end was limp and in the way of the range of "throw," which wouldn't let the pull type be pushed all the way back if that makes sense. I moved it out of the way and it snapped right in.

Hit the fenders with a little left over cheap primer just because the red was killing me..

Did the bumper as well. Brought out all the cracks, dings, spider cracks etc too so i'll be able to see what needs to be repaired. The bumper also has a hard time mounting up on the drivers side . Not even sure how the previous owner mounted it up.. I'm sure John's frustrations go far past mine as I just got the bumper hahaha. but the white was killing me too hah


And FINALLY I got started on the Body Harness... My plan of attack is Mount it. Cut it and suite to my likeing. Then whatever is left over I'll literally just cut out all Ape-Crazy like...just without damaging anything in the process.
Got all the plugs on the inside connected, and ran it up and over the wheel arch so it doesn't get rubbed and chewed up.


going to mount the fan relays and major relay box under my headlight bucket. There's enough room for sure, just need to find a nice neat place, cut and get the soldering iron out.

Same goes for this side... moving the relays and fuse box under my headlight bucket. Sucks I baught a sleek light kit from someone a while back and just now got to opening it up..and the damn thing has NO light mounts. So now I have to source some or make them.. was really looking forward to just bolting them on. Oh well...another box on the "to do" list.

And the drivers side. Same same same...Move out of harms way/eliminate everything I don't need, and re wrap. Got all the connectors through the fire-wall and I'll be connecting everything today after work.

Really sucks to put such a Hot Ugly Mess on the car...I'm really looking forward to having the car professionally wired up/tucked, i'm sure it'll be night and day, and much more simple.

Other news...got a telescoping magnet..and fished it allllll around under in/out of the trans bell housing and never found the bolt. I never actually saw the Bolt drop into it..so i'm not 100% positive it even fell in there..but I just assumed it did because I couldn't find it on the ground. Going to try again today just to make sure...but I just hope it fell somewhere else stupid..like in the engine subframe out of sight or something.

Bled the brakes some more and although they're better... and the pedal feels like it's 100% the front wheels still don't lock up. Which has me thinking.... where should I start with my Manual Brake Bias? dead center? The rears lock up no problem.. but the fronts take a pump before they work.

Also, any good tips on bleeding the Clutch? I spent an 2 hours yesterday doing it to no avail. Do I bleed it the same way as the brakes? any tips will help! thanks much!

More Updates soon! Stay Tuned!

[Mannykiller]

Tiny Update:

I got fed up with my brake/clutch system and started over. This time I started with the clutch pedal side of the Master cylinder piston.

I watched a youtube video of a guy who was having similar problems in a jeep cherokee or something. His clutch pedal wasn't getting hard no matter how much bleeding he did. So he pulled off the C-Clip on Cabin side of the Clutch pedal/Piston. And there was an air pocket that had developed and was stuck between the piston and the Master cylinder. You pull the piston out just until you see fluid leak out and then push it back in. This can be a little tricky if you don't have C-clip pliers. SO I'd advise you not to do it unless you have some. Also DONT pull it out too much otherwise you may let more air into the system. But I did it..and It fixed my problem immediately. As soon as I pushed the piston back in the pedal was instantly firmer. Bled it a couple times and It was back to normal. It was really late and I was exhausted so I called it quits at around 12:15 since I had to be up at 5, but Now I can properly bleed the brakes. I also Bench Bled the master cylinder after that to ensure no bubbles were hindering the bleed. So Today I'll finish up Bleeding the Brakes and Clutch and Move onto something else!!

[Mannykiller]

Update:

Lots of work done..but nothing off the list?!

I've been working at a min of 3-4 hours a night the past couple days and yesterday I realized I only got one thing done on my "to do" list haha. But a Ton of stuff that needed to be done is now complete.

anyways...back to updates!

Wanted to get the Origin rear fenders rivited on and didn't like the idea of having to drill out rivits if I needed to replace a damaged fender. So I looked around online and saw that people were using Nut-certs. You pretty much push the threaded rivit onto the body panel and it pressure sandwhiches the fastner in place which you can then bolt stuff to securely. You just have to be careful to make a good "cert." So I found a low cost alternative and this is why I love Harbor Freight.....and hate them haha.
I got the kit from Harbor frieght and after searching for 2 days all around locally and on the internet I ended up purchasing ANOTHER kit and tool just to be able to have enough Certs to finish the Over fender Install. I couldn't find the certs anywhere local and I searched thoroughly.. You can find them online but some places wanted some 37 cents per cert..and ebay didn't have any that had a big enough outer lip for me to feel comfortable using. Anyways I'll take pics of the tool later, but heres the install.

drill

Nut-cert

another

Fender install

cleaned and finished


Side skirts.... So after admitting that i'm not so good at paint and body.. I decided not to cut my side skirts up. But instead.. I'm going to use more Nut-serts (cert/"sert"..sert is actually correct but who gives a shit...) to fasten the Side skirts. First I had the over fenders under the side skirts and although it could look cool. It would take a lot of work and customization. So I flipped it..and i'm going to lay the over fenders ON TOP of the side skirts. The skirts fit flush and the over fenders sit nice and flat against the body. So i'll have to figure out a couple cert locations and then make some alum brackets for the underside.
fender on bottom, skirt on top

Fender on top, skirt on bottom

[Mannykiller]

Continued....

Couldn't help but mock up the front fenders as well to get a good look at how the car will look.


One more pic just because

I also got the Dash back in the car..not bolted in but just in place.


So what did I accomplish last night?
- Went and purchased 25 10-24 sized allen head fastners for the over fenders
- Installed over-fenders (only thing that I had listed on my "to do" list
- Mocked up Side skirts to figure out mounting points
- Hit everything "Kit" oriented with black primer
- Connected all Body harness Connectors in-cabin on pass/Drvs side (so I know what I can delete)
- Ran my Coil harness (thanks C.Ludwig) from passenger side rear bin/battery..through firewall/found neat routing and around motor/vac block and around brake booster to coil location
- Connected grounds Engine/Chassis for that same harness
- Put dash in, ready for install
Also... wasn't paying attention and I cracked the windshield wiper lever when I was putting the dash in. Really sucks..as I'm keeping the wipers etc. I'll have to replace that and the Gauge hood I accidently sold thinking I had 2..<---Stooopes..
Well, ...more updates soon!! stay tuned!!

[IIIXziuR]

This is a nice build-up, man. Keep at it =)

[Mannykiller]

Update: "ahhh the little things..and wiring...and wiring..and routing..and wiring.."

So I got to working on the Interior
before

dash in

Progress

ahh nice.....look it's actually a car I'm working on!! haha

Seat in


money angle

[Mannykiller]

Continued......

Got to mounting the side skirts in a more permanent solid way.. these harbor freight clamps have helped tremendously

Needed to make sure nothing rubbed or hit when I opened the door. This took me about 45 min on each side... it's definitely a process...especially with crappy fitting kit pieces

Then I routed my EGT sensor wiring through the smaller of the 2 openings in the fire-wall, and into the cabin nice and neat.


Powered By Max wiring kit was very easy to install and the directions were simple and easy with a picture tutorial if you couldn't understand the writing.

zip ties=neat

used a little sheathing covering to clean things up and keep the connectors protected. The red twisty tie represents the rear rotor housings so I knew which goes where. I also labeled the Digital gauge so I know which is which

rear egt gauge

Both Gauges routed cleanly, and ready to be mounted somewhere cool. Just need to tie in 12v power and Grounds. Same with my Innovate MTX-L..
Ready to go

de-pinned the OEM igniter wiring from the ecu plug and replaced them with the correct pins for Chris Ludwings direct Fire ignition harness.....which by the way is one hell of a nice harness.. Very impressed with the harness, materials used, well thought out location for things, and easy to use directions for install. Even a dummy (me with wiring) could install it.

[Mannykiller]

I think in total I used about 35/40 zip ties to clean things up.

Last night I got:

Both EGT's routed into cabin and wired up to digital gauges
Side skirts mounted both passenger & drivers side nice and clean without altering door open/close function
Re-routed vacuum lines through fire-wall nice and clean
Installed Starter
Installed Starter harness connectors to alternator and 2 Grounds (except I'm missing a couple, hope I don't need them)
zip tied main fuse box under drivers side headlight bucket ready to be hard mounted
routing the main harness sucks and I don't think there will be any way to get it routed without looking like butthole....without completely re-doing it in the cabin and runnning everything individually to the front. Does anyone know if I absolutely need the Ignition plug on the starter harness? or have I completely by-passed it with the direct fire? I guess I could message Chris..
Anyways..more nut-serts on their way from Mcmaster-carr, so i'll be able to finishe the skirt/overfender sections of the kit install. Then i'll only have to worry about the Front bumper which needs some work for sure..
I was going to order a nice Battery...any suggestions?

Fuel pump relay stuff should come in today. I'll get that all figured out too.

More updates soon!! getting close!!