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Old 12-18-2016, 09:51 PM   #1
Martinem092396
 
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Exclamation S13 sr misfire, not charging, starting issues

Hey guys I was finally able to test drive my new sr swap yesterday even tho it wasnt running at 100% as I was just eager to drive it after such a long build. I own a 1990 s13 hatch that was originally a 5speed ka24e. I will try try to explain the major problems in detail so you zilvia experts can help a fellow member get back on the road!
MODS:
3" Exhaust from turbo elbow all the way to muffler
FMIC
Inatke with pod filter
Wiring specialties engine harness
Freddy intake manifold
Ngk BKR7E spark plugs
Hks grounding kit
Aluminum rad with dual efan
Walbro 255 FP

MAJOR ISSUE #1

Probably the most annoying thing I have to do every time I want to start the car is manually jump the starter with a screwdriver. I have spent too much money and time on this build to be just another hack 240, I want to do this the right way and hoping you guys can lead me into the right direction. I am running an oem sr20 lower harness with the wiring specialties engine harness. I also invested in an HKS grounding kit to make sure everything is grounded down properly. I did a bunch of research and couldn’t find anything on how to wire the harness together so I just did whatever worked. I connected the terminal from the fuse box to the lower harness terminal. From there I connected a 2 gauge wire running to the trunk with a brand new battery. I replaced the blue starter relay in the engine bay and still no luck. The starter is rebuilt and passes test at autozone (car does start by not from ignition). The only thing I can think of now is either the ignition switch or neutral safety switch under the clutch pedal going bad? But the thing is that my car started up just fine with the key before the swap.

MAJOR ISSUE #2
I drove the car yesterday but it did have a misfire. I’m not sure why and I need help diagnosing the problem. First off plugs are brand new running NGK COPPER BKR7E all gapped to sr specs. Have new valve cover gasket and new sparkplug tube seals to insure dry plugs. I have adjusted the CAS according to the frsport guide. Used soapy water and checked every single vacuum and all check out to be ok. I have spark coming from each coil as well. I am running a walbro 255 FP and with the stock injectors. I put a screwdriver up to my ear and can hear each injector clicking about the same pace so I have plenty of fuel. The only thing I can think of as I’m typing this is I might have connected the injector plugs is the wrong order??? Also something weird that happens is that the engine starts to stall if I hold in or repeatedly press in the brake pedal. The vacuum hose from the booster to manifold are as tight as can be. Possibly faulty brake booster? I also have the PCV valve and T fitting on the valve cover vented to atmosphere, not sure if that makes a difference.

MAJOR ISSUE #3
Now finally the 3rd issue. When I drove the car the car started right up. I stalled getting out of my driveway as I was trying to avoid scraping my brand new Hks exhaust from that low life. Went back to the engine bay to jump the starter and again, started right up. I then went to the gas station to fill up tires with air and get some gas. I turned off the car as I was filling the tires with air. Went back to jump the starter to park in front of the gas pump and again started right up. I put some gas in the car and then no longer wanted to turn on, let alone crank. Got a friend to jump me and drove it back home. The next day I tried to turn it on and no luck, I had to jump it every single time. The alternator was rebuilt and passed the autozone test with flying colors. Also took the BRAND NEW battery back in and they charged it. They told me the battery was fine just drained. When I jump the 240 the car will run but as soon as I disconnect the car from where I’m jumping my 240 dies down and stalls. Meaning the alternator isn’t doing its job correct? I read somewhere online that if the battery light on the cluster doesn’t turn on while I turn the key to the “on” position that the alternator won’t receive a signal or something like that. I checked my cluster and sure enough the battery light isn’t working. I took out the bulb but looks to be fine. I went ahead and bought a new light bulb anyways have yet to install. I also checked the 75A fuse for the alternator and checks out to be ok. What else could it be?????

Please someone out there help or if you know a 240 god come send him my way!!

Last edited by Martinem092396; 12-28-2016 at 03:39 AM..
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:30 AM   #2
GLoBaLReBeL420
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#2 : If you press the brake pedal and the revs drop than check the valve that runs inline from your Brake booster to your engine. This can cause what you are seeing...
- Also, if you are running a Walbro 255 with a stock FPR, you need to fix this ASAP. This will make your engine run much to rich. Buy a Nismo FPR and inline gauge to set your PSI.

#3 : Don't have a easy answer for ya. I would get the FSM and find your alertnator wires and do some resistance checks. Hopefully nothing is broken, but what you are explaining seems to be a bad alernator relay.
- Test: Get battery charged full. Take voltage reading.
Take car out for long drive, keeping RPMs above 1500 rpm (needed to charge battery)
After a good 10 minutes, pull over and check voltage. If the same than alternator is working as it should. If less or car dies, than either alternator is broken or wiring is incorrect. Check FSM and repair.

-Matt
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:42 PM   #3
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UPDATE:I got the new battery charged to 100% and checks out good at autozone. I replaced the battery light in the cluster with a new one and still does not light up. I turned the car on and checked the battery with a multimeter, at idle battery is showing 12.3 volts. I checked the 75amp relay and also shows 12.35 volts. As soon as I disconnect the battery negative terminal the car dies.again.. the alternator passed the test and is rebuilt. I checked the voltage on the ring connector on the alternator and was around 14-15 volts. Wiring is not my strong suit so idk what else to do.
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLoBaLReBeL420 View Post
#2 : If you press the brake pedal and the revs drop than check the valve that runs inline from your Brake booster to your engine. This can cause what you are seeing...
- Also, if you are running a Walbro 255 with a stock FPR, you need to fix this ASAP. This will make your engine run much to rich. Buy a Nismo FPR and inline gauge to set your PSI.

#3 : Don't have a easy answer for ya. I would get the FSM and find your alertnator wires and do some resistance checks. Hopefully nothing is broken, but what you are explaining seems to be a bad alernator relay.
- Test: Get battery charged full. Take voltage reading.
Take car out for long drive, keeping RPMs above 1500 rpm (needed to charge battery)
After a good 10 minutes, pull over and check voltage. If the same than alternator is working as it should. If less or car dies, than either alternator is broken or wiring is incorrect. Check FSM and repair.

-Matt
Hey thanks for the input Matt. I checked the hose from booster to manifold with soapy water and it's not leaking any air. And I thought the stock fpr was good enough with the walbro but I guess I'll look into that more.
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:51 PM   #5
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Issue #1: Trace all your wiring, make sure everything is correct. A nice multimeter will be your friend for your 240. Also I wouldn't trust Autozone tests.


Issue #2.1: Make sure the injectors are plugged in proper order. Is it misfiring at all RPMs? I know people swear by soapy water, but build/buy yourself a vacuum tester. Will help you further down the line as well. Vacuum leaks can be culprit of a lot of different issues. Vacuum leak could very well affect your braking issue as well.
Route the vacuum/pcv system back to oem spec. Venting to atmosphere has no benefits.

Issue 2.2#: Also listen while car is running if you hear any whistling coming from brake booster area, and/or test the brake booster. Remove the hose to the brake booster and plug it. The brakes will be pretty hard to press. But if it was leaking and you plugged the vacuum line going to it then it should clear up the problem. Don't drive it plugged.

Issue #3: Get the FSM, or wiring diagram for alternator, make sure wiring checks out for that as well. And judging from what you describe I would still guess the alternator is bad. Autozone testing, is still something I don't rely on.

Been awhile since I owned an SR, so these are just things from the top of my head. Hope it helps
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:17 PM   #6
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you should have close to 14 volts when running at the battery as well as the alternator...also autozone only checks the volts out...not amps...google what a good alternator would put out for amperage, I cant remember off the top of my head what it should be
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:08 PM   #7
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I'm curious about your battery relocation. Was it done before your swap and working fine? What kind of wire did you use and where do you have the ground?
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Old 12-20-2016, 03:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Standard View Post
I'm curious about your battery relocation. Was it done before your swap and working fine? What kind of wire did you use and where do you have the ground?
I did the swap and battery relocation am the same time. I used a 2 gauge wire from ground and power. The ground is going to the thread where the spare tire should be
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:15 AM   #9
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that's a terrible grounding point...it only has a few welds...add some more grounds and clean all the paint off where you bolt them to.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:18 PM   #10
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^seriously, try that

I'm guessing a properly installed battery will solve most of your troubles, good luck
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:44 AM   #11
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Easiest grounding point in the trunk would be one of the bolts on your rear strut tops. But if the car won't run without the battery connected something else is going on.
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:31 AM   #12
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usually means alternator isn't charging too...may be wiring issue there...
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:16 AM   #13
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I would check the 2 pin connector on the alternator to see if you get power to one side when the key is turned on. That is basically what lets the alt charge. Maybe check the lower harness for issues or loose plug.

Last edited by S-Verteen; 12-22-2016 at 11:20 AM.. Reason: clarification
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:51 AM   #14
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Ok thanks for the input guys. I managed to fix problems 1 and 3 being the car cranking from ignition and alternator problem.

For those of you who might have this problem in the future...
For the alternator make sure your battery and alternator are good. I would get these checked at your local auto parts store. Also check the main alternator fuse which is a grey 75A fuse located in the fuse box on the passenger side. (I believe for s14 it is a 100A fuse). Lastly make sure you connect ALL 3 connectors for the alternator as it is very easy to miss one and your alternator will not do it's job.. in my case, I did forget to connect one of the connectors. I swore I had all the connectors plugged in so just triple check all your wires and grounds.

For the car cranking problem I honestly gave up on trying to figure out what the problem was that didn't allow me from cranking the car from the ignition. I got tired of having to crank it manually with a screwdriver and especially because the gear would get damaged over time. Eventually down the road I will try and figure out how to make it work properly but for now here is my simple hack.. all I did was splice the starter wire from
The ignition and literally ran it straight to the starter. Remember when you do this you are bypassing all the safety switches so if you have a manual you won't have to press down the clutch to start the car so just take that into consideration. Just make sure you use a thick enough wire anywhere from 12-14 gauge and you should be pretty solid.
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:22 AM   #15
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For your ignition issue, have you tried pressing down on the button with your hand and start the car? I have this issue because the rubber grommet on the pedal is worn out. If it works try this.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=252720

As for the misfiring, check your spark plug tunnels to see if there is rust. If so, grab a wire brush and remove the rust. My SR had this issue in cylinder 1 because the boots on the coilpack is blown out. Also, check to see if the ground wire on the injector harness is grounded to the chassis (mine is grounded under the throttle cable bracket on the firewall).
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