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Old 05-29-2014, 01:03 AM   #31
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:36 PM   #32
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Sorry about the lack of updates. In between my typical 50-60hr work week, wife and kid, I bought a new (to me) house, sold the old one, and this little beast joined the family.



So, I've been lacking time to work on the car a long with time to update my build thread. The clutch is now connected. I was recommended to stay with the stock 5/8" master cylinder with my clutch to give more feel with its short engagement. To connect I used a Russels, 640481, banjo fitting (m10 to -4), Earls, 997517ERL, M10 banjo bolt, and a McLeod Quick disconnect line. I can't remember the exact length, but I'm thinking it started as a 24" or 30" and I had it cut to fit with a new crimp on -4 fitting by TFE, a local hydraulics/hose shop.



I think most guys skip the quick disconnect due to lack of tunnel clearance, but mine seemed to snap in ok.



The fire sleeve is mostly to save the firewall from the abrasive SS braid.
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:57 PM   #33
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So, I finally managed to get some time to dive back into the project. The big task was wiring. As much as I love having all parts of the car done my way, wiring gets a little tedious and overwhelming, especially when you stack up an overall clean-up, fuse box and relay tuck, and a new engine.
For the clean-up, I pulled the interior, and began removing all the wires for the power seat belts. I removed all of the control wires, but left the power wires that go to the center console area and tied those into a terminal block.



That gives me quick and easy access for future electronics. The wires that I left give me a 10A fused accessory switched, and a 30A accessory switched on a breaker, and I also tied in a ground wire that went to the seatbelt control. From there I removed the wires to the door switches and the seatelt motors, then rewrapped the wire with braided split loom.



I also redid my main battery cable, I saw a little insulation from the wire scraped where it passed under the seat brace on the floor, so I used a piece of pex as a conduit for a little extra protection.



I also went though the dash wiring, removing the wires for the flip up switch, aside for one power, illumination and another wire to trip a relay for fog lights in the future. I also removed the consult port and the headlight timer wiring.



I had a little pile, trying to make more room for the main, fuse/relay box from the engine bay. To make that fit, first pulled all the wires for the flip-ups and air conditioning. I then put the horn relay and a relay for my fog lights into the main box, in place of the additional headlight retractor relay and the ac relay. Also pulled the wire for the 30a fusible link for the ac to be used for my cooling fan (it had an inline 30a fuse). I shortened all the wires to place the box into my glove box space.



Since the SMJ isn't the plug for all the wires forward of the firewall, I made a seperate harness for what was left in the front of the car (lights, signals, horn) I use a deutsch dtm 12 pin, using every pin.





I love the deutsch connectors, they use solid pins and let me use the crimper I bought for my engine wiring harness.



Its a DMC mil-spec crimper, you have a piece that sets the depth for a certain pin type, so all you have to do is insert the wire into the pin, put the pin into the crimper until it stops, then squeeze and its a perfect crimp every time.
Also anything that came out I made sure to remove completely, so I had to do a little de-pinning on the SMJ connector. The small ones were a little tricky, I had to grind down a small precision screw driver to get them out. Also you have to make sure to remove the retainers from the sides of the plug.





For the fuse box mounting I used piece of 1/8" kydex sheet that I laid out using a cardboard template, cut out, and formed it using some wide sheet metal pliers and a heat gun. I cut the mounting tabs off the fuse box flush and drilled some holes to mount to the kydex with zip ties.







The top two holes bolt to the dash bar where the ac box once mounted.



I also added another terminal block, using the constant power, accessory power, and illumination circuits for ease of future gauge wiring.
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:57 AM   #34
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The engine wiring was a little easier than the tuck. I started with a SSP wiring stand alone harness, then proceeded to go through it to make it the way I wanted, and it had a few short comings that I addressed while going through it. All of the power wires were tied together and the instructions said to tie them into the ignition switched ecu power, I'm not sure if this would have worked, but its different from all the other harnesses available and stock gm wiring. To remedy I separated each bank, the o2 sensors, and the ecu power wires into their own seperate fuses, I kept as much as possible in the original fuse box, but I still needed to use an external fuse block for these three, they each got a 10a fuse. I reused the ecu relay and fuse from the fuse box. To reuse the ecu relay I had to rewire its trigger with one going to ignition switched and the other to ground, from the wiring diagrams it appears that it was ground switched from the Nissan ECU. Also the fuel pump relay needed to be rewired because the LS1 ecu switches it on with a power signal and the Nissan ecu uses a ground signal. Do it at your own risk, but if you want to do something like this, you take the solid red constant power wire from the ecu relay trigger and run it to ground and then tie the red/black stripe wire from the brown connector to the black/red stripe ign switched wire on the grey connector. The fuel pump relay is a little simpler, you take the black/white stripe wire from the trigger side and ground it.



This picture is reference only, my wires weren't quite the same, so you need your year factory service manual.

For cleanliness I integrated the coilpack wiring harness.
In progress pics





I cut the harness and used a 61 pin mil-spec circular connector at the firewall, utilizing the nearest ac hole to the engine.





To wire these you need to have a proper sized dmc crimper, or similar mil-spec tool.



Its a good idea atleast make a wiring sheet and number the wires if you're going to tackle one of these plugs otherwise things could get real bad real fast. For mine I numbered the wires, then made an excel sheet that says the wire color and where each wire goes; engine side, ecu pin, and circular connector pin.



I then covered it all in a mix of flame retardant tech flex, dr-25, and 4:1 adhesive lined heat shrink. This part was very time consuming and challenging. Some connectors can just be de-pinned, while others (like injector plugs) the pins front load and de-pinning does not remove the plastic plug, so you either need to cut them off and re-do them or slide the covering on from the other side if possible.



Its a little difficult to see, but here is the finished product on the engine.





I'll have to get some better pictures in daylight once it comes back from the fab shop building the exhaust.
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:53 AM   #35
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pretty sweet
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:12 PM   #36
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The more I see these ls builds, the more I want to sell off my sr and go ls. In for further updates. Bay looks retarded clean.
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:02 PM   #37
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Killer job on the wiring. Can't wait to see more progress.
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Old 10-26-2014, 10:02 PM   #38
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I tip my hat to you good sir! Splendid job so far.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:29 PM   #39
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Thanks everyone for the compliments, here's some more info and updates.
Radiator set-up, for this I reused my old C&R Racing radiator. It was a SR20 set-up so the upper hose was on the drivers side, to work best with the LS I had it moved. I had the neck cut off and blocked, then reused the SR20 upper hose, attached it to the water pump, clocked it until it met the upper tank and marked center for it to be reattached. I then marked the location for a 1/8" NPT half coupling to be welded in for the steam vent.





For the lower hose I spent a little time searching forums until I was able to find some part numbers.
Napa:
8400 Hose
900 Reducer

Gates:
21710 Hose
26390 Reducer

My closest parts store is Advanced, they cross referenced those numbers to a Dayco P/N 71428.

Here's what it looks like from the store.



Then, measure once, cut twice or something like that, and here's what I ended up with to make it fit right.

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Old 10-28-2014, 10:06 PM   #40
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For the exhaust I decided to go custom stainless from a near by race shop. I dropped off a pile of parts and let them know how I wanted it routed and let them handle the rest. Its a 2.5" Y-Pipe set-up, to a 3.5" single. I used all V-band connections with Vibrant flex couplings to protect the headers and an o2 bung on the passenger side near the tail of the transmission for a wideband sensor.





The muffler is a Borla XR-1 with a 5" slash cut tip welded to the outside of the canister. The sound at idle is fairly loud but mellow and when you crack it open it gets loud, like something you feel. I'm going to try to get some running videos up by the weekend.
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Old 11-02-2014, 04:50 PM   #41
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I'm still doing a bit of trouble shooting to get everything running right, I'm having some hard starting and high/hunting idle issues that seem to be related to the TPS giving an intermittent signal, same with the cam sensor and, the engine temp sensor reading 160 even when the engine is cold. I thought that the ect sensor had failed, but I checked it with a multimeter and its good. Next step is tracing the wires for each of the sensors that are acting up. I've driven the car a few times, it pulls really hard, but with the idle randomly pulling up to 2 - 3k without warning or a real consistent reason seems a little dangerous, and hard on the clutch on starts, so its in the garage until I get the issues figured out.

Here's a video of the car running. The sound clips out pretty bad when I rev.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_aZ8pAS-BI
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Old 11-07-2014, 11:23 PM   #42
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Awesome build!
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:59 AM   #43
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I want to change up my exhaust setup to something more similar to yours. probably 3" to 4" single. how is it for around town driving? obviously loud, but annoying? video!
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:09 PM   #44
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Yay!! another Dustin with a coupe on the site!

love the build so far! keep up the great work
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:39 PM   #45
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Thanks for the positive feedback. Beas, I like loud exhaust, it doesn't seem a whole lot quieter than the open headers to be honest, but it took out quite a bit of the irritating droning. I haven't driven it a lot yet, haven't had enough time to completely figure out the idle/running issues, and I still have a lot of the interior out, but it seems fairly reasonable when it's driven gently. I'm going to try knocking out some more trouble shooting tomorrow and hopefully I can get some more driving vids up before it starts snowing. One thing about 4" though, its probably going to be a really tight fit and start to effect ground clearance. I figure if its too loud you can always add resonators in the y-pipe.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:11 AM   #46
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Hey, quick question. I run the GTO oil pan and it sits too far forward. Was wondering which Moroso pan you use and if you had any pictures of the steering rack and crossmember clearance. I'm nervous to pick a pan and not have enough clearance to move my steering rack mounting points forward. Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:22 AM   #47
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This is looking nice. That exhaust is good.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:09 PM   #48
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JulianC, my pan sits pertty close, I set it at about 3/16" - 1/4" using the Fueled Racing Moroso pan. I don't think I have any pictures with the right angle to see what you're looking for. My Mounts are custom too so I'm not sure if clearance would be the same on the kits that are available. I tried to stuff my engine as low and far back as possible, so my clearance is tight.
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:07 PM   #49
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No updates in a while, I've finally had a little time to work on the car and make some more progress. At the last update I was having a handful of running and drive ability issues with my swap. I pulled the codes with Torque on my phone and came up with a few codes to give me a little direction.

P0102 MAF low frequency....I don't have one and apparently when my baseline tune was done he missed that note.

P0122 TPS intermittent low voltage - caused hanging idle

P0342 Cam Position Sensor low voltage - caused hard starting

P0118 ECT Sensor high voltage - probably didn't help any with the starting 160 degree reading on scan tool no matter the actual temp.

The first issue I decided to tackle was a high, hanging idle because it was preventing me from driving the car. Here's what it was doing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaRuJajjyP0

I was sure that there were no vacuum leaks, turns out I was wrong, I pulled the manifold to install new gaskets because those were among the very few I didn't replace. While the manifold was out I discovered that the cheap parts store rubber cap I had used to cap the brake booster line had split down the middle. And I completely missed a small (about 6mm) opening under the MAP on the back of the manifold, but we're not going to talk about that one. After replacing the caps with EPDM rubber caps from McMaster Carr the issue was nearly solved. The hanging, not returning to proper idle, turned out to be caused by a faulty TPS sensor, another part I had went cheap on with some no name ebay part, I replaced it with an OEM AC Delco part and that problem has been solved.

The next most important problem I was having was the hard starting. I had to break out my firewall plug wiring chart for this one. I started tracing wires on all sensors affected by the codes back to the PCM plug. It turned out that my 12v power for my cam sensor somehow was switched for the 5v ECT power (late night wiring session), I switched those two at the plug and now it starts much more easily and I have a proper temperature reading. That let me finally get my hot mess of a car out of the garage for a little driving and a car wash.



After a little driving I noticed that the car really struggled with hot starts, back on the stands it went. I pulled the starter and took it into autozone to test, to my surprise it kept passing. I had them test it like 10 times in a row to attempt to heat soak it a little to see if that would cause it to fail, no luck. While it was out I went ahead and heat wrapped it for good measure.



After a little internet research, I found that a lot of people with ls1's have the same trouble with odyssey pc680's when they're mounted in the trunk, but not under the hood, due to the extra wire length. Then the search was on for something that I could run in the trunk without a sealed box so I could keep a similar set-up. That limited me to sealed AGM batteries, most of what I was finding was designed to be used in motorcycles and atvs. I finally found something that looked like it would work, a Total Power TP1200, its designed for sand cars and race cars, just a little larger than a Harley battery (deka ext30) and claims 700CCA and 1200amps. So I ordered one along with their fabricated battery bracket and installed it in my trunk.





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Old 08-05-2015, 04:55 AM   #50
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I missed reading about this car. Glad to see a bit of an update!
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Old 08-05-2015, 04:30 PM   #51
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Also while under the car I went after a few transmissions issues. First was the lack of a flywheel dust shield. For that I installed the Canton LS1 - T56 dust shield.



I had to do some minor trimming to clear my headers (I didn't want to pull the driver's side, otherwise it would have fit there) and one bolt on the Moroso pan. Sorry about the super close pic, my jack doesn't go really high so it was a little snug under there.



Another problem was that the stock reverse switch socket was nearly touching the tunnel, I couldn't plug in, or unplug them without loosening the trans mount. I did a little searching to see if there was a better solution and came across others using the reverse switch from a t56 equipped mustang. Its a Motorcraft SW-5857, it adds a little right angle wire pigtail instead of a straight in plug adding a ton of clearance.



Another issue I had was the reverse lock-out when I was building the harness I had read about difficulties with the reverse lock-out and opted to not wire it and try to come up with my own solution. My first solution was to remove the solenoid, replace it with a M20x1.5 plug and install a stiffer spring behind the plunger.





That didn't work so well, it was still too easy to hit reverse instead of 5th and I didn't really want the feel of a much stiffer spring, so I came up with another solution. I wanted it to feel more like a detent and have more of an initial break to an easy push so it would be obvious if you're about to go into reverse. I took some measurements and started in SolidWorks.



I tweaked the design a little bit and ended up with this.



Here it is next to the stock part, minus solenoid.



And in the car, it gained a lot of tunnel clearance, more than I needed, but it probably would work even better on cars with even tighter transmission tunnels.



Here's how it works, kinda hard to tell without actually feeling it, but the video should get the idea across. Pretty pumped that my idea/prototype worked as expected.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwQo6tbC0No
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:51 AM   #52
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Nice build! Where did you get the mil-spec connector and pins?
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:41 AM   #53
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If you don't mind me asking, where did you get all of your electrical connectors and tools? How much was that Mil-spec connector?
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:59 PM   #54
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Thanks, here's the places I can remember getting wiring stuff from:
Pro Wire USA - the circular connector, dr-25, and some of the Deutsch connectors.
Wire care - Tech flex FR and some more Deutsch connectors and some hanger tabs for them.
Waytek and Del City - some terminals, terminal blocks, and adhesive lined heat shrink.
Summit and Jegs - braided split loom and heat shrink fabric sleeve (Jegs only on that one).
Wire Barn - assorted colors of automotive wire.
Ebay - DMC crimper and terminal holder/stop for it.
Menards - wire tags, terminal block, and crimper for stamped terminals/pins.
McMaster Carr - Teflon jacketed wire for my alternator and an assortment of mil-spec wire.

I had around $160 in the connector IIRC with the boot adapters and heat shrink boots.
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Old 09-16-2015, 10:38 PM   #55
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Updates

No updates in a while, here's what I've been up to on the car:
1. Driving it some more to make sure my wiring wasn't going to burst into flames before installing the dash.
2. Added backing plates to my Aerocatches
3. Fixed Reverse lights
4. Cleaned up the wire tuck some more
5. Mounted the PCM
6. Connected CEL
7. Installed pipe from blower to heater core
8. Sealed around the shift boot
9. Installed dash



After seeing a picture on the NRR forum of the aftermath of Aerocatches pulling through a hood, and seeing my hood bounce quite a bit on the highway, I decided I needed to install the backer plates on my Aerocatches.



I don't have any pics of the installation because it was pretty simple, I just had to make sure the second layer of hood was just open enough to allow the backer to fit. At some point I would like to either bond the two layers of hood or cap the bottom layer over the bottom of the latch to offer a little more pull though protection. Its probably an overkill but I've had a hood come up before and its no joke, even a low speeds.

The reverse lights were constantly on since I did the swap, my initial solution was to just pull the bulbs since it wasn't stopping me from driving the car. I ended up first pulling all the fuses for the constant hot wires that went to the back of the car that they could have been shorted to. Things like the trunk light, dome light, and seat belt power wires (which I retained for future wiring). None of them helped then a friend that was helping saw that the horn signal wire was the same color as the reverse light wire, so we checked it for continuity...it was the problem. It is the same color (green/white) as the reverse lights, same gauge and goes to the under hood fuse box (now under my dash). I should have been paying more attention when shortening all the wires, but it was a pretty easy fix, I swapped the two a few inches from the SMJ and they worked. If anyone is doing the LS swap, its good to know that the reverse lights are on the E17 plug (green/white to lights and green/blue from fused power).

For the wiring clean up I went from this hot mess.



To this, still a work in process, but much better IMHO.



I eliminated the rest of the plugs that were coming out of the fuse box that I'm not using. Its narrowed down to the F8 and F10 plugs, a two pin Deutsch DTM, replacing the E17, since I only need the reverse lights from that connector, and a two pin Deutsch DTP for my engine cooling fan wires (pulling power from the AC fan 30a fuse)
Moving the PCM unfortunately wasn't quite that easy. It took me a while to figure out the orientation that would allow the PCM to be mounted on the passenger side kick panel and had to ditch the mounting bracket that I had originally purchased since it was designed to hold the PCM with the flat size up there was no way it would fit. I replaced it with a 3/8" aluminum piece that I milled to suit.

Started with this.



Made this surround bracket, it bolts to the PCM using the cover bolt holes on the computer.



The next problem that caused is that the wires were coming out of the PCM connectors in the wrong direction, they were going to come out tight to, towards the floor. Luckily I had enough wire to switch them around, not so luckily I had to completely de-pin and redo the circular connector to make everything come together right.







While I was in there I found the brown wire on the upper LH side of the brown connector, it was a 10a fused, ignition switched wire used for sensors on the Nissan motors. It made for a perfect power source for my PLX SM-AFR wideband controller. I ended up adding an additional 6 pin Deutsch DTM connector for wideband power, a fan override switch, speedo input, speedo output (DD converter box), and my OBD II signal wire. I also connected the CEL output from the LS PCM to the dash, using the red wire on the F1 plug, my cluster did not have the light in position, but it goes on the left side of the cluster to the far right of the idiot light row that includes the fuel light and washer fluid level. Some cars will be equipped originally, others like mine weren't.



After the wiring issues I had last time I sat down with my plug wiring diagram and the PCM plug wiring diagram and sounded 100% of the wires to be sure I wasn't going to have any problems.

Then I test fit probably one of the ugliest AC delete boxes ever made.



I made it with two flanges made from aluminum flashing material, stretched speaker cloth between the two and then fiberglassed over the top. My fiberglass work could definitely use some work, but it did gain me a ton of wiring clearance over the factory AC box allowing me to keep my vent function (I still need to figure out heater core connections, I have some ideas, but that job is for a later date)
Then made a new kydex bracket to drop the fuse box down a little so it could be clearly seen with the dash installed, and modified the side of the fuse box slightly and the packard (painless) fuse block to allow them to snap together, seen in the after picture shown above.
To fill the gap around the MGW shifter to the Nissan boot, I had to make a plastic sleeve that fit around the shifter with a very snug slip to very light press fit. Shown with the PCM bracket.



The shifter to floor boot gap.



Part installed.



And finally installed the dash and made a temporary OBD II plug mounting bracket from some aluminum.







The next items on my list:
Finalize the location for my battery power distribution block. I'm not sure I want the unfused battery cable running through my car and connecting on the interior side of the firewall the way it is now.

Finalize the home for my Speedhut gauges that are in the old stereo location. They may stay there or I might make some brackets to move the hvac controller down and the gauges up into its place.

Get some wider stickier tires and probably some new wheels to go with them, have to decide, which wheels and what combination I want to use. I'm inbetween:
Front and Rear 255/40/17's square (lots of tire options)
Front 245/40/17 - Rear 275/40/17
Front and Rear 275/40/17 square
Front 275/40/17 - Rear 315/35/17
Front and rear 285/30/18 (again lots of options)

The car has very little traction in 2nd and 3rd gear with pretty much anything over 3/4 throttle, but I don't think the older, 400 treadwear, falken 452 tires that are currently on it are helping anything.

I'm still trying to decide if I want to stick with the current widebody, go back to stock width or do some rocket bunny flares and side skirts. This will have a lot to do with how aggressive I can get with my wheel and tire fitment.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:50 PM   #56
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Small Update

I've done a few little things to the car recently. I've added a grille/finisher piece.



Its one I've had around since I did the body kit, like 10 years ago, I've put off installing it because its not exactly a direct fit. Since I may be replacing it, I didn't want to go to too much work with paint prep, so I pastidipped it black. To get it in I made some 1" square washer/spacers out of kydex to space it up about 1/4" to keep it off the bumper, then it had to provisions to attach to the upper points, so I made some little angle tabs out of some 16ga sheet aluminum, riveted them to the piece and screwed them to the headlights with square nylon snap in nuts. I still need to plastidip the brackets for a little more finished look.



I also finished wiring in the fog lights, when I did the wire tuck I set a fog light relay into the fusebox, I ended up pulling the switched power for the relay from the flip up headlight switch.



I've given the haltron fire extinguisher a temporary home attached to one of the supports for the rear seat surround plastic, where it will stay until I reinstall, the rear panels.



In the trunk I've added covers to the battery terminals and used insulated clamps to try to more cleanly route the positive cable.



I also want to make a cleaner 3rd brake light set-up that doesn't look like ET poking his head up over the back seat. I'm experimenting with some angled plastic channel and led strip lights. I have some lights from autozone that are pretty bright, but were pre-cut into two 12" strips, I'm probably going to order one 24" strip and solder in the leads myself for a cleaner install. But here's the mock-up taped into position.



I've been enjoying the car a little lately too and took some pictures with a buddy.





And made a short in car action cam video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uULwfVpZaEE
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:20 AM   #57
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Absolutely love this build. Great attention to detail bud. How are you liking the clutch? My only gripe right now with my LS is the SPEC 3 so I am looking at alternatives.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:37 PM   #58
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nice.. i just picked up an E-Rod LS3 and this thread made me realize that I'm in it for the long haul.


The attention to detail and the powdercoating of the engine bay parts was just satisfying to look at.

amazing.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:30 AM   #59
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Small update to the build. I've been neglecting this thread for a while. Since the last post I've made a couple little changes on the car.

First, I made a back seat delete panel.



Started with a cardboard template, trimmed and fit until I was satisfied to move onto the material of choice. I used .080 Kydex plastic (like gun holsters) because it's light weight, textured to blend well with the other interior plastic, and pretty easy to form with a heat gun. I used my cardboard template to trace and layout approximate bend locations onto the Kydex.



I to get the bend at the bottom i bar clamped the plastic to a piece of plywood and use it kind of like a brake while heating the plastic. Mounting it I used some finished fender washers off ebay and made some aluminum blind mounting tabs for the back side to hook the flange of the seat pass through.

The next change was mounting a Cobra Imola Pro Fit racing seat. A big plus on the Imola is that I got to sit in one at the PRI show, see the quality up close, and make sure the seat would fit me right before buying one. The stock seats aren't very supportive and the race seat was a nice chainge.





I chose Bride FG rails to mount the seat, as far as I know the lowest sliders available. The downside is that the Cobra seats are flat bottomed (unlike some Recaro's and Bride's), so the seat rails still sat too high for my liking. So I made them lower yet.



Here's where they started, with the seats in the lowest hole on the brackets they were still about 2" over the stock seat height. So I made some spacers to hold their position without the seat then made a jig to keep the two seat rails in relation to each other so I could make new, shorter legs for them and not have them come out crooked.





I cut off the old legs, made shorter new ones, and dropped the seat rails about 5/8" - 3/4" (as low as they can possibly go and function at all)



I also changed the lower padding out on the seat for the Cobra Pro-Split, it's the lowest pad they offer and it drops you down about another inch. After both tweaks it put be back where I wanted to be.





For now I still have the stock passenger seat, at some point I would like to replace it with something a little more supportive, but I'm thinking still reclining.
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:26 PM   #60
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I don't know how I missed this thread originally. Great work on the wiring my man! Seriously, that's quality work.
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