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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 04-09-2016, 10:15 PM   #5791
b00stinbmx
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well its done, it dosen't leak, its not perfect but i made it and im pretty damn happy with the experience as a whole. i def learned a lot and the next one could be a million times better. im going to smooth it out and polish it at some point but for now im just trying to get my car running and see how it performs before i waste the effort. heres a few flicks.

all in all it cost me probably $500 worth of material and maybe 40 hours of work or so. if anyone is interested i would probably make another for around $1,300. still cheaper than a raw brokerage or RIPS one. but lets see how it holds up first.







installed and how the car sits right now till it gets tuned
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:40 AM   #5792
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Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
I will be tackling some rust repairs that will include welding on my car soon and I was reading this thread as motivation:
http://forum.eastwood.com/showthread...ration-project

One simple question I have is what do you guys use to cut such intricate pieces out of the body panels? What tools in particular? Is is a combination of cut off wheels and sawzall?

Also how do you find most spot welds to drill them out? Sure some are obvious on good clean metal but when rust gets in there it get's blurry. Do you just get most then chisel the rest out?
Depending what it is and what you have available. Angle Grinder and body saw are the two I use. Both I have are electric but I have air versions as well. I use sawzaw to cut larger stuff like frames, etc.

To find spot welds, use a wire wheel if it has rust. Usually you can get it down enough to see the divot in the metal where the spot weld is. If you are unable to get to a spot, drill out the ones you can see, then pull the metal up and you will notice where it is being held down. Often showing where the next spot weld is. Usually you can just see them though or wire wheel to see them. I have a sharp hardened chisel set I use for small stuff like if you drilled to the side a little or something similar, then the chisels come out.

Also, if you are going to drill spot welds to weld later, I would recommend getting a thing of copper as if you are new to it, you may drill through and need to weld the hole. A ton easier and better with copper on the backing. The welds usually dont stick to copper and so filling holes is easier instead of doing multiple tacks to build a dome.

Hope this helps and best of luck.
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:52 PM   #5793
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Ahp alphatig200 I lengthened mid pipe for cat delete and buddy welded turn down after picking up exhaust.

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Old 04-30-2016, 07:01 PM   #5794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tauntdevil View Post
Depending what it is and what you have available. Angle Grinder and body saw are the two I use. Both I have are electric but I have air versions as well. I use sawzaw to cut larger stuff like frames, etc.

To find spot welds, use a wire wheel if it has rust. Usually you can get it down enough to see the divot in the metal where the spot weld is. If you are unable to get to a spot, drill out the ones you can see, then pull the metal up and you will notice where it is being held down. Often showing where the next spot weld is. Usually you can just see them though or wire wheel to see them. I have a sharp hardened chisel set I use for small stuff like if you drilled to the side a little or something similar, then the chisels come out.

Also, if you are going to drill spot welds to weld later, I would recommend getting a thing of copper as if you are new to it, you may drill through and need to weld the hole. A ton easier and better with copper on the backing. The welds usually dont stick to copper and so filling holes is easier instead of doing multiple tacks to build a dome.

Hope this helps and best of luck.
Thank you very much! Seems like the body saw is just what I need!
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:13 PM   #5795
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Originally Posted by bahlorm View Post
I'm just starting to get into fabricating myself. And my test dummy happened to be an s13 that I cut up. My original plan was going to be to ditch the body and build a full tube chassis around the suspension and drivetrain, but I was convinced to keep the lower half of the shell and the firewall to make it easier to tag. Right now my only concern is since I cut the roof before installing the main hoop, it ended up a little tall lol. After I get seats and such, I'll then decide whether or not to cut it down a bit.

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Is that a vw thing with a sr?
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:18 PM   #5796
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Man..... looking in this thread and seeing all the glorious fab work and looking for more to end up seeing all the dead image links brings a tear to my eye.
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Old 03-04-2017, 11:11 PM   #5797
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does a little sanblasting designing count? :-P
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Old 03-23-2017, 01:01 PM   #5798
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I have a bunch of small rust holes in the floor pan behind the front seats right where the floor goes vertical to go up the rear seats. I just ordered this floor extention to try and fix them all in one go:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...,745_001,74516

I was wondering, will I need a jig while I cut out this small section of floor? Or will it be fine?
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Old 03-24-2017, 11:18 AM   #5799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
I have a bunch of small rust holes in the floor pan behind the front seats right where the floor goes vertical to go up the rear seats. I just ordered this floor extention to try and fix them all in one go:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...,745_001,74516

I was wondering, will I need a jig while I cut out this small section of floor? Or will it be fine?

I would say you will be fine to remove that panel from the car. just make sure your car is nice and level when you remove it and put your new one in.
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