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Old 07-22-2015, 05:38 PM   #5401
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Hey just wanted to share with everyone my latest investment. Gateless T4 top mount manifold for 1jz non-vvti. It's better quality than the typical eBay cheapie, but it's obviously more expensive. still for 900 bucks it wasn't bad.

There aren't many quality options for 1jz non-vvti but this manifold is exactly what I wanted. I'll be running a EFR 8374 w/ Internal wastage so i needed divided without wastegate tubes



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Old 07-22-2015, 07:10 PM   #5402
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That's pretty sick man.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:15 PM   #5403
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Very nice, who makes it?
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:17 PM   #5404
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Oh sorry thought I mentioned that it's the pro series manifold that suprastore sells. They have options for vvti and other wastegate configurations they also have 2jz options, but obviously 2jz's have a lot more choices in the us market than 1jz.


I'm going to start posting a lot more related to my build. I'm building a 1jz non-vvti the head has been finished for awhile and I'm getting the shortblock back in a couple weeks.

I did a few interesting things with the build. I should probably start a build thread eventually. Ha

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Old 07-23-2015, 10:26 PM   #5405
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bought my 1j vvti manifold from them. going to run an EFR 7670.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:44 AM   #5406
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bought my 1j vvti manifold from them. going to run an EFR 7670.
Looks very nice. What is your power goal?

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Old 07-24-2015, 07:48 AM   #5407
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For the guys that notice lights dimming and voltage around low 13V with their fans, pumps running, gauges, radio etc. I gave something a shot that worked great. I had a alternator that finally died and a battery with a dead cell so I needed to get a alternator and battery.

little background on the car-JDM 2jz swapped S13, AEM V1, HKS DlI,(1) 12" puller fan & (1)big 3300CFM fan, tach, oil pressure, boost pressure, AFR, Water Temp. gauges Ptuning EBC.

I gave "The Big 3 Upgrade" install a try and for the $$ and hour of my time it took it was worth it.

Here's some of the results I had:
1. Stock alternator with Napa Battery: Around 12.9-13.5- Volts with Fan's, 340LPH pump on
2. I bought a 110AMP eagle Auto Alternator same battery- 13.3-13.5 Volts
3. 110AMP eagle Auto Alternator, Optima Battery- 14.5 with Heat, Headlight, fans and dome light on.

The car idles alot smoother, starts easier and everything is brighter.
Here's what all I used:
Positive Terminal
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00
Wiring kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00
Battery
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o02_s00

It's super easy to do this upgrade and I definately noticed all positive changes.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:53 AM   #5408
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It's all over the internet on how to do it but if anyone is interested I can take some pics but here's the run down:
the 3 Points of Connectivity for the big 3 upgrade:

1. 0 gauge wire connect to the Alternator power feed to the positive terminal on the Battery. (Keep the factory wiring to the 75A fuse)
2. 0-2 gauge wire from chassis ground to the Negative terminal.
3. Run 0 gauge from enginle block to chassis

- Super basic rundown but that's it in a nutshell.

Hopefully this helps someone out
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:23 PM   #5409
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Looks very nice. What is your power goal?
Goal is somehwere around the 500wtq area. Hoping no more than 21-23psi and 93octane.

Other bits to assist are;
850cc injectors, Sard fuel rail, Walbro 400 in-tank, HKS 264/264 cams, BC springs/retainers/lockers, Titan 2jz oil pump, 2jz water pump, AEM V2, MAP conversion, still considering aftermarket intake mani, OSgiken twin plate, full built MarlinCrawler/Driftmotion R154, Cs short shift, and whatever else I'm forgetting .
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:11 PM   #5410
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I am using the 2jzgte VVTi version of the engine with stock twins.

Does anyone know of a piping solution or kit for the MAF/air intake tube that lets me keep my s14 passenger side fuse box in the stock location? I really like this kit

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...de=240SX2JZGTE

but it assumes you relocated that fusebox.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:56 PM   #5411
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438289626.970482.jpg
Got my throttle body shortened by a local guy. I still need to smooth it out to make it pretty.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438289641.041510.jpg
Also removed the nipples from the upper waterneck and had him weld them shut. I just filed them down by hand afterward.
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Old 08-03-2015, 10:28 AM   #5412
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my 1jz swapped s14 silvia import
6boost exhaust manifold
holset hx35 12cm turbo
550cc supra 2jz injectors
greddy emanage blue
all the other stuff too, walbro fuel pump, fmic etc etc
makes 406bhp at the wheels at 1.5 bar of boost

engine bay, front end chopped and rad moved forward, gk tech s14 super cooling fan cnc machined onto 1jz water pump clutch:


custom made exhaust

oval


R154 trans, act 6 puck paddle clutch and lightened flywheel


i have since had the rad modded so the water pipe is where a stock s14 sr20 would be, along the front of the engine now like a supra has
currently starting a 1.5jz build for the car, should be good fun


also just picked up a mk3 supra fan shroud, i'll try make that fit however my friend is handy with aluminium so he will probably make one
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:21 AM   #5413
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Anyone that has swapped out their 2j cams, did you follow the FSM and loosen and retourque the cam caps it says to every 120 degrees or did you torque them down in sequence once and forget it like 99.9% of other engines?
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:22 AM   #5414
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^^very nice Jonny Mac. Like the rad support change.
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:31 AM   #5415
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Quote:
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Anyone that has swapped out their 2j cams, did you follow the FSM and loosen and retourque the cam caps it says to every 120 degrees or did you torque them down in sequence once and forget it like 99.9% of other engines?
I followed the FSM.

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Old 08-03-2015, 11:36 AM   #5416
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Anyone that has swapped out their 2j cams, did you follow the FSM and loosen and retourque the cam caps it says to every 120 degrees or did you torque them down in sequence once and forget it like 99.9% of other engines?
I did them like any other engine.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:25 PM   #5417
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So has anybody else had a problem getting their engine from Zerolift? I have been waiting for over a month and still nothing (ordered on July 1st). I was told 10 days when ordering and since then have been told a different date every time I call or go to their shop. I have dealt with Rob a few times before and he has been very good, but the owner Mike is apparently who does engine ordering and has been unprofessional not giving me a date and wasting my time/money since I have called off work four times now...
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:03 PM   #5418
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Before i get roasted yes i searched and couldnt fint it ...But can you reatin heat with the factory twins on a non 1jzgte vvti? Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:32 PM   #5419
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Almost done converting the twins to the single. All pieces mocked up and finally bolting back together. I made a coolant tank on the firewall to eliminate the need for messing around with air pockets. Bottom -10 line on the tank goes to the water pump. Pipe deleted. Wastegate come up and out the passenger side fender
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:37 PM   #5420
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Almost done converting the twins to the single. All pieces mocked up and finally bolting back together. I made a coolant tank on the firewall to eliminate the need for messing around with air pockets. Bottom -10 line on the tank goes to the water pump. Pipe deleted. Wastegate come up and out the passenger side fender
Dude, that looks awesome! Still for the life of me can't get the stock nipples out of the water neck.I hated them up and threw them in a vice and nothing!
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:42 PM   #5421
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I gave up on one of them and cut the nipple off then drilled it out working up to a 21/64 drill bit then tap it with 1/8 npt threads. No need to pull it out if you cant. Drill that mothafucka. Lol

Matter of fact I cut off all but one nipple on the intake and tapped them all then installed plugs
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:49 PM   #5422
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I gave up on one of them and cut the nipple off then drilled it out working up to a 21/64 drill bit then tap it with 1/8 npt threads. No need to pull it out if you cant. Drill that mothafucka. Lol

Matter of fact I cut off all but one nipple on the intake and tapped them all then installed plugs
So just cut them flush , drill them out with a 21/64 drill but and hand tap 1/8npt?

Where did you buy the tap and 21/64 bit want to big for the tap? Did you wrap the plugs with teflon? I have the blue plugs you do but wanted to use one of the holes for water temp gauge.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:53 PM   #5423
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Yep. Exactly as you said. Can buy the tap with correct size drill bit at any hardware store or lowes. I put a thin layer of tape on the threads just to make sure it's sealed.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:55 PM   #5424
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Yep. Exactly as you said. Can buy the tap with correct size drill bit at any hardware store or lowes. I put a thin layer of tape on the threads just to make sure it's sealed.
Funny cause lowes, home depot, seats and Wal-Mart didn't have it.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:37 AM   #5425
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I just put vice grips on each one and twisted while prying out with a screw driver. I probably twisted back and forth 100 times while prying against the vice grips. Then I'd reseat the vice grips closer to the neck and start twisting and prying again. I had them both out in about 10 minutes.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:44 AM   #5426
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I just put vice grips on each one and twisted while prying out with a screw driver. I probably twisted back and forth 100 times while prying against the vice grips. Then I'd reseat the vice grips closer to the neck and start twisting and prying again. I had them both out in about 10 minutes.
Pff mine seem super stuck.put heat to them and all.I'm going to upload a picture after I get home from work to show how mutilated they are lol.

Btw what's the best primer/paint to use on a cast aluminum piece like the water neck that withstands heat?
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:16 PM   #5427
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Pff mine seem super stuck.put heat to them and all.I'm going to upload a picture after I get home from work to show how mutilated they are lol.

Btw what's the best primer/paint to use on a cast aluminum piece like the water neck that withstands heat?
I used duplicolor engine enamel with ceramic on my aluminum parts (valve covers, intake...) slowly removing the paint and going with polished little at a time
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:07 PM   #5428
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What size bolts to use with freed eng mounts and which bushing work the best with em?
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:46 PM   #5429
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I used duplicolor engine enamel with ceramic on my aluminum parts (valve covers, intake...) slowly removing the paint and going with polished little at a time
Finally got the nipples off just now!!! Drilled them out , started to tap 1/8 ands then the remaining nipple piece pulled out.I then taped the bare aluminum to 1/8.


Now my other dilemma is the 1 wire temp sensor snapped inside and I tried to drill it and just goes threw. The probe is still in the neck along with the threads around the wall.
Any ideas on what to do? Definitely not trying to buy a new neck.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:54 AM   #5430
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Have you tried an "easy out" bolt extractor?
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