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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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07-22-2015, 05:38 PM | #5401 |
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Hey just wanted to share with everyone my latest investment. Gateless T4 top mount manifold for 1jz non-vvti. It's better quality than the typical eBay cheapie, but it's obviously more expensive. still for 900 bucks it wasn't bad.
There aren't many quality options for 1jz non-vvti but this manifold is exactly what I wanted. I'll be running a EFR 8374 w/ Internal wastage so i needed divided without wastegate tubes |
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07-22-2015, 07:17 PM | #5404 |
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Oh sorry thought I mentioned that it's the pro series manifold that suprastore sells. They have options for vvti and other wastegate configurations they also have 2jz options, but obviously 2jz's have a lot more choices in the us market than 1jz.
I'm going to start posting a lot more related to my build. I'm building a 1jz non-vvti the head has been finished for awhile and I'm getting the shortblock back in a couple weeks. I did a few interesting things with the build. I should probably start a build thread eventually. Ha Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
07-24-2015, 07:44 AM | #5406 | |
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Quote:
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07-24-2015, 07:48 AM | #5407 |
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For the guys that notice lights dimming and voltage around low 13V with their fans, pumps running, gauges, radio etc. I gave something a shot that worked great. I had a alternator that finally died and a battery with a dead cell so I needed to get a alternator and battery.
little background on the car-JDM 2jz swapped S13, AEM V1, HKS DlI,(1) 12" puller fan & (1)big 3300CFM fan, tach, oil pressure, boost pressure, AFR, Water Temp. gauges Ptuning EBC. I gave "The Big 3 Upgrade" install a try and for the $$ and hour of my time it took it was worth it. Here's some of the results I had: 1. Stock alternator with Napa Battery: Around 12.9-13.5- Volts with Fan's, 340LPH pump on 2. I bought a 110AMP eagle Auto Alternator same battery- 13.3-13.5 Volts 3. 110AMP eagle Auto Alternator, Optima Battery- 14.5 with Heat, Headlight, fans and dome light on. The car idles alot smoother, starts easier and everything is brighter. Here's what all I used: Positive Terminal http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00 Wiring kit http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00 Battery http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o02_s00 It's super easy to do this upgrade and I definately noticed all positive changes.
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07-24-2015, 07:53 AM | #5408 |
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It's all over the internet on how to do it but if anyone is interested I can take some pics but here's the run down:
the 3 Points of Connectivity for the big 3 upgrade: 1. 0 gauge wire connect to the Alternator power feed to the positive terminal on the Battery. (Keep the factory wiring to the 75A fuse) 2. 0-2 gauge wire from chassis ground to the Negative terminal. 3. Run 0 gauge from enginle block to chassis - Super basic rundown but that's it in a nutshell. Hopefully this helps someone out
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07-24-2015, 10:23 PM | #5409 |
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Goal is somehwere around the 500wtq area. Hoping no more than 21-23psi and 93octane.
Other bits to assist are; 850cc injectors, Sard fuel rail, Walbro 400 in-tank, HKS 264/264 cams, BC springs/retainers/lockers, Titan 2jz oil pump, 2jz water pump, AEM V2, MAP conversion, still considering aftermarket intake mani, OSgiken twin plate, full built MarlinCrawler/Driftmotion R154, Cs short shift, and whatever else I'm forgetting .
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07-27-2015, 12:11 PM | #5410 |
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I am using the 2jzgte VVTi version of the engine with stock twins.
Does anyone know of a piping solution or kit for the MAF/air intake tube that lets me keep my s14 passenger side fuse box in the stock location? I really like this kit http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...de=240SX2JZGTE but it assumes you relocated that fusebox. |
07-30-2015, 02:56 PM | #5411 |
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438289626.970482.jpg
Got my throttle body shortened by a local guy. I still need to smooth it out to make it pretty. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438289641.041510.jpg Also removed the nipples from the upper waterneck and had him weld them shut. I just filed them down by hand afterward. |
08-03-2015, 10:28 AM | #5412 |
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my 1jz swapped s14 silvia import
6boost exhaust manifold holset hx35 12cm turbo 550cc supra 2jz injectors greddy emanage blue all the other stuff too, walbro fuel pump, fmic etc etc makes 406bhp at the wheels at 1.5 bar of boost engine bay, front end chopped and rad moved forward, gk tech s14 super cooling fan cnc machined onto 1jz water pump clutch: custom made exhaust oval R154 trans, act 6 puck paddle clutch and lightened flywheel i have since had the rad modded so the water pipe is where a stock s14 sr20 would be, along the front of the engine now like a supra has currently starting a 1.5jz build for the car, should be good fun also just picked up a mk3 supra fan shroud, i'll try make that fit however my friend is handy with aluminium so he will probably make one
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08-03-2015, 11:21 AM | #5413 |
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Anyone that has swapped out their 2j cams, did you follow the FSM and loosen and retourque the cam caps it says to every 120 degrees or did you torque them down in sequence once and forget it like 99.9% of other engines?
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08-03-2015, 11:31 AM | #5415 | |
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08-06-2015, 10:25 PM | #5417 |
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So has anybody else had a problem getting their engine from Zerolift? I have been waiting for over a month and still nothing (ordered on July 1st). I was told 10 days when ordering and since then have been told a different date every time I call or go to their shop. I have dealt with Rob a few times before and he has been very good, but the owner Mike is apparently who does engine ordering and has been unprofessional not giving me a date and wasting my time/money since I have called off work four times now...
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08-09-2015, 08:32 PM | #5419 |
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Almost done converting the twins to the single. All pieces mocked up and finally bolting back together. I made a coolant tank on the firewall to eliminate the need for messing around with air pockets. Bottom -10 line on the tank goes to the water pump. Pipe deleted. Wastegate come up and out the passenger side fender
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08-09-2015, 08:37 PM | #5420 |
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Quote:
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08-09-2015, 08:42 PM | #5421 |
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I gave up on one of them and cut the nipple off then drilled it out working up to a 21/64 drill bit then tap it with 1/8 npt threads. No need to pull it out if you cant. Drill that mothafucka. Lol
Matter of fact I cut off all but one nipple on the intake and tapped them all then installed plugs |
08-09-2015, 08:49 PM | #5422 | |
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Quote:
Where did you buy the tap and 21/64 bit want to big for the tap? Did you wrap the plugs with teflon? I have the blue plugs you do but wanted to use one of the holes for water temp gauge. |
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08-09-2015, 08:53 PM | #5423 |
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Yep. Exactly as you said. Can buy the tap with correct size drill bit at any hardware store or lowes. I put a thin layer of tape on the threads just to make sure it's sealed.
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08-09-2015, 08:55 PM | #5424 |
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08-10-2015, 05:37 AM | #5425 |
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I just put vice grips on each one and twisted while prying out with a screw driver. I probably twisted back and forth 100 times while prying against the vice grips. Then I'd reseat the vice grips closer to the neck and start twisting and prying again. I had them both out in about 10 minutes.
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08-10-2015, 05:44 AM | #5426 | |
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Quote:
Btw what's the best primer/paint to use on a cast aluminum piece like the water neck that withstands heat? |
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08-10-2015, 01:16 PM | #5427 |
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I used duplicolor engine enamel with ceramic on my aluminum parts (valve covers, intake...) slowly removing the paint and going with polished little at a time
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08-10-2015, 07:46 PM | #5429 | |
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Quote:
Now my other dilemma is the 1 wire temp sensor snapped inside and I tried to drill it and just goes threw. The probe is still in the neck along with the threads around the wall. Any ideas on what to do? Definitely not trying to buy a new neck. |
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