How To: DIY Paint and Body work

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by Smallblock

Awesome thread, just in time too with some very useful tips as I'm about to makeshift a paint booth out of my garage to paint my car.

Make sure you sweep it out real good. And don't paint for a day or so after. I took everything out of my garage and blew out corners with the air chuck, swept the floor 5+times. Waited til the next day sprayed the whole floor down and swept the dirty water out.

When it comes to painting, like most things, cleanliness is next to Godliness. And don't forget a drying system when painting. Moisture will kill you.

[ReLiC]

Awesome thread... and i agree with tqstar, each of your diy guides deserves its own thread.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by ReLiC

Awesome thread... and i agree with tqstar, each of your diy guides deserves its own thread.

probably right but i did it this way so others can contribute their work as well

[xBtony]

Im even more impressed with the bodywork then I was the paint. haha looks good man, very helpful write up for those tryin to DIY some stuff.

[h2v7]

thread is awesome

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by xBtony

Im even more impressed with the bodywork then I was the paint. haha looks good man, very helpful write up for those tryin to DIY some stuff.

Lol would you expect less from a bodyman with 8+ years exp and a techincal degree in collision/refinishing? Ill have some good write ups once i start back onn my s13

[xBtony]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Lol would you expect less from a bodyman with 8+ years exp and a techincal degree in collision/refinishing? Ill have some good write ups once i start back onn my s13

I expected less from zilvia. Lol. But seeing as you have more experience then me, glad you did it right haha. Like I said bro nice work.

[g2ic02]

1. Is there a specific temp/humidity you are aiming to spray base coat/clear? 2. Are you wet sanding between coats? 3. Is it best to plan on spraying base and clear in one session? 4. Can you let your base coat cure (for an extended period of time) prior to spraying clear? 5. How do you finish sand your clear coat(how long do you wait, etc..)

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

33 gal 1.5 hp craftsman is what i use........ so did you not read the first line? where is your step by step on what you did to the bumper? how is before and after pictures going to help anyone?

me too! good enough for painting but for constant sanding and stuff, no! hell no! defenitly no!!! haha i like my compressor but i just wish it had a 5hp motor on it. would be sick!

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by g2ic02

1. Is there a specific temp/humidity you are aiming to spray base coat/clear? 2. Are you wet sanding between coats? 3. Is it best to plan on spraying base and clear in one session? 4. Can you let your base coat cure (for an extended period of time) prior to spraying clear? 5. How do you finish sand your clear coat(how long do you wait, etc..)

1- 70* with 30% humidity is perfect, with that said they make paints for different temperatures. I wouldn't paint under 50* and over 90* so somewhere in between. 2- wet sanding is only needed if you mess up and get runs or a lot of trash.3- yes that is ideal to do that, base coat has a 8 hr window if you go over that you must reactivate it by slightly sanding with 1000 grit and then clean the surface again.4- once it has a flat look to it , it is ready for clear. At this point most of the solvents have evaporated from the surface. So without scuff sanding it you have 30 min - 8 hrs to get clear coat sprayed. If you wait that long tack rag the surface prior to clearing. 5- give it atleast a day or so before sanding and buffing. Using 1000 grit sand your runs and trash or orange peel and then go back over it with 1500 grit. This will make buffing much easier, use a high speed buffer and rubbing compound. Only buff a square foot at a time, once that area is done then move on.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

me too! good enough for painting but for constant sanding and stuff, no! hell no! defenitly no!!! haha i like my compressor but i just wish it had a 5hp motor on it. would be sick!

It would be nice to one of the bigger compressors but my budget is tight so I make do with what I got. The craftsman barely puts out enough air to constantly run my sander for a long time. If I had the money I would love to buy a small rotary screw compressor

[Darren]

nice work and great idea for helping the community! I might have something to contribute, just have to see if i have enough for a proper how to

[g2ic02]

thanks for the reply, i have been looking for a diy on this for a long time.

[initial_jc]

Great write ups

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by g2ic02

thanks for the reply, i have been looking for a diy on this for a long time.

Your welcome!

[KAT-PWR]

Hey man i'm going to be spraying paint soon and i was wondering if you have any advice for spraying paint vs. primer

[twinspool]

awesome thread! I am in the middle of stripping my whole car down and painting engine bay, interior, jams, and exterior been wondering what steps I need to take and materials needed. Keep up the good work! My bud has a hachi that is in need of some body work too

[P-Funk alot]

what causes orange peel.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Hey man i'm going to be spraying paint soon and i was wondering if you have any advice for spraying paint vs. primer

Ill go thru my project pictures and see if i have enough of the priming process to do a write up for you. Its basically the same process but its a bit more forgiving if you mess up since it has to be sanded down anyway.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by P-Funk alot

what causes orange peel.

So many things cann cause orange peel, its almost impossible to spray and not have some orange peel. Quality of your paint, distance from the surface when you spray, speed you move while spraying, viscosity of the paint( thicker paints tend to orange peel more), and air pressure. So many different issues can cause orange peel, thats why they make sandpaper and buffers

[bxsvx]

Nice job! Wish you were in NY!

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Ill go thru my project pictures and see if i have enough of the priming process to do a write up for you. Its basically the same process but its a bit more forgiving if you mess up since it has to be sanded down anyway.

My question was confusing sorry, i'm looking for tips to spray PAINT not primer

[blueshark123]

The cheapest price i found for online body shop supplies is stockwiseauto.com I also have a 5% off code that is savewise2012 i believe. I actually just found out they are only 10 mins from me so I can do pick ups instead of shipping.

I will still recommend a nice wet sand with 1800 to 2000 grit (correct me if im wrong) at the end with a compound/buff.

Im by no means a body guy I have just been getting into learning how to do bodywork lately. Can you explain how to compund and what tools and brands you would recommend on that. I have been looking into wizards I really like some off their products or i can just get 3m.

I will contribute to the thread when i fix my dash on how to fix cracks. I have done that with great results in the past.
I like to use lord fuzor 152 to fix the crack then sem texture coat. Then finish it off with sem black trim paint. It comes out perfect.

[blueshark123]

oh also any recommendations on inline water filters for the compressor

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by blueshark123

The cheapest price i found for online body shop supplies is stockwiseauto.com I also have a 5% off code that is savewise2012 i believe. I actually just found out they are only 10 mins from me so I can do pick ups instead of shipping.

I will still recommend a nice wet sand with 1800 to 2000 grit (correct me if im wrong) at the end with a compound/buff.

Im by no means a body guy I have just been getting into learning how to do bodywork lately. Can you explain how to compund and what tools and brands you would recommend on that. I have been looking into wizards I really like some off their products or i can just get 3m.

I will contribute to the thread when i fix my dash on how to fix cracks. I have done that with great results in the past.
I like to use lord fuzor 152 to fix the crack then sem texture coat. Then finish it off with sem black trim paint. It comes out perfect.

wet sanding is ok but i have found that dry sanding with 3m 1000grit and higher seems to be better to work with. Buffing and compound usage: i like to use about a inch to a inch and half ribbon of compound, use my pad to spread it out and buff a square foot at a time. You have to keep the buffer moving a bit to keep the temp down or you wiill get burn thru. Ill do a write up when i get around to buffing the hachi. Never used wizards but you cant go wrong with 3m..... fusor products are the best. Inline filters, i just use disposable ones right now

[SMM]

For the most part I agree with your methods.

I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear.

( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new)

Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800.

Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast.

I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code.

If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing.


I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff.


A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced.

That is all for now.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by SMM

For the most part I agree with your methods.

I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear.

( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new)

Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800.

Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast.

I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code.

If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing.


I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff.


A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced.

That is all for now.

Thanks for the input, I would like more people to post information as well. Try to add pictures next time. Tinting can be done so many different ways, use whatever works for your project. I have found that spraying base coat onto the plastic tends to make it look more like the rattle can look vs the smoked or tinted lens look. 2k products are a must if you want a quality paint job.

[SMM]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Thanks for the input, I would like more people to post information as well. Try to add pictures next time. Tinting can be done so many different ways, use whatever works for your project. I have found that spraying base coat onto the plastic tends to make it look more like the rattle can look vs the smoked or tinted lens look. 2k products are a must if you want a quality paint job.

If you reduce it enough you will not get that look.

Here are some random pics from my cell:

Friends SRT 8:
Painted a lot of stuff black.





Tinted tails, dirty in pic.


Supra I helped with:



Not streaks in the hood. Beams on roof.


350Z 350th Anniversary rims:


Civic engine bay:




My ZX10R:













Jet SKI's:
Before

After


My GSXR:

Pearl really doesnt show in crappy pics. Looked super nice in person.




Not my style but hey money is money:

[C. Anderson]

^What color are those 350z wheels? Nice work btw.

[P-Funk alot]

ok i have a couple questions.
1. are some colors easier to spray than others
2. is there a change in method for metallic and candy paints
3. have you ever used a prism clear
4. and finally when you use metal flake is that sprayed with the clear.

thanks in advance i plan on painting my car here in the next 2-3 weeks.