This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[da_crew10]

HELP (INPUT) NEEDED (WELCOME):


My car is really low. I have some questions on modifications I should look into.


For the front end. Should I move my steering rack forward? Also I am looking into knuckles, but for the time being, do y'all think the GK teck knuckle adapters should suffice?


For the rear. I am looking into ball joints with longer shanks as mentioned in the first page. I have bent toe arms. I am in the process of doing subframe bushings, I have polyurethanes ready to drop in, but held off due to the fact that I need risers because of the height of the car. Or will I be fine with the energy suspension joints I have?




P.S All this is just to keep the car from driving super crappy, and the occasional drift event.

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by da_crew10

HELP (INPUT) NEEDED (WELCOME):
My car is really low. I have some questions on modifications I should look into.
For the front end. Should I move my steering rack forward? Also I am looking into knuckles, but for the time being, do y'all think the GK teck knuckle adapters should suffice?
For the rear. I am looking into ball joints with longer shanks as mentioned in the first page. I have bent toe arms. I am in the process of doing subframe bushings, I have polyurethanes ready to drop in, but held off due to the fact that I need risers because of the height of the car. Or will I be fine with the energy suspension joints I have?
P.S All this is just to keep the car from driving super crappy, and the occasional drift event.

First off, raise the car if you dont want it to drive "super crappy." Problem solved.
No need to move the rack forward if you dont have knuckles.
Subframe risers will help mitigate CV joint issues better than normal replacement subframe bushings.

[TheRealSy90]

The Roll Center Knuckles can overcenter, which you'd want the rack moved forward to compensate.

[da_crew10]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

First off, raise the car if you dont want it to drive "super crappy." Problem solved.
No need to move the rack forward if you dont have knuckles.
Subframe risers will help mitigate CV joint issues better than normal replacement subframe bushings.

Tell me something I do not already know. If I wanted to raise my car I would. I like the car low. Very low. I just figured with all the market support for low cars I would compensate for what I lost when lowering the car with the mods I mentioned that I was thinking of making.

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

The Roll Center Knuckles can overcenter, which you'd want the rack moved forward to compensate.

So until I get knuckles,, I do not need to move the rack forward? Relocating it forward just for being low would solve nothing?


Sorry for my lack of knowledge in this. Which is for why I asked in this thread specifically.

[jaysgottaredtop]

^ Yeah, not much use in relocating the rack on stock knuckles. Although if you already have the subframe out and plan to get knuckles soonish, it wouldn't hurt to relocate the rack now.

For the front, I'd recommend relocating your rack in combo with roll center correction knuckles. Handles worlds better on a dumped ride height. I'd also suggest switching to longer FLCAs, and preferably using heim joints on the FLCA and tension rod ends.

For the rear, definitely use solid subframe risers. Do it now, do it once, and be done with it. Any amount you can raise the subframe will be helpful to mitigate the crappy geometry from being super low. Heim joints on all the rear arms will be a plus too. Less floppiness. Tighter, more predictable feel.

That's pretty much the gist of my setup. I can't fit a golf ball under my frame, but the car is still nimble and easy to flick/control. Just because it's low and has less-than-ideal suspension geometry doesn't mean your S-chassis has to handle/drift like ass.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

^ Yeah, not much use in relocating the rack on stock knuckles. Although if you already have the subframe out and plan to get knuckles soonish, it wouldn't hurt to relocate the rack now.

For the front, I'd recommend relocating your rack in combo with roll center correction knuckles. Handles worlds better on a dumped ride height. I'd also suggest switching to longer FLCAs, and preferably using heim joints on the FLCA and tension rod ends.

For the rear, definitely use solid subframe risers. Do it now, do it once, and be done with it. Any amount you can raise the subframe will be helpful to mitigate the crappy geometry from being super low. Heim joints on all the rear arms will be a plus too. Less floppiness. Tighter, more predictable feel.

That's pretty much the gist of my setup. I can't fit a golf ball under my frame, but the car is still nimble and easy to flick/control. Just because it's low and has less-than-ideal suspension geometry doesn't mean your S-chassis has to handle/drift like ass.

^X2.

Good news is that there are front knuckles on the market with 50-60mm of either correction or drop, which makes the car handle much better for us low guys.

One note on the rear subframe risers: Coat the subframe or the bushing or both in something that will keep the bare steel from contacting bare aluminum. Galvanic action will occur and you'll find that the bushings become loose. I'm sure this problem was exacerbated by driving mine through one winter, but regardless...

[Bnr32gtr]

Any input with the gk tech solid rack bushing? Do they come loose like the pbm ones? Dose any one make solid ones that don't move the rack forward?

[TheRealSy90]

There's no negative side effect to moving the rack forward.

Also, idk whats up with PBM bushings coming loose, mine are tight as hell. I was worried the steering rack tube would bend or collapse when I was tightening the brackets down lol.

[Bnr32gtr]

I understand there no negative with moving the rack forward with my set up and I pan to I'm just trying for a quick bolt on fix for now. don't want to pull the motor till winter just got this thing on track and there's like 4 more event I can hit. I'm not shore if I have bind cuz I'm using both eccentric rack bushings with the offset rack spacers? I'm just 99.9% shore the rack is moving/coming losse bc of the rack bushings. I don't want to over tight bc I hear it ez to bend rack tube just like u said. This is what I kno car on ground turning the wheel to lock I get no where near the sway bar but I have rubEd 2" of paint off it.Pics from the first event show crazy angle that I can't get when just setting on the driveway having a freind turn to lock.

[sr vegas 240]

What is the longest oem inner tie rod that will bolt in to s14 rack currently have 05 maxima inners 13.25 inches I believe and they are short. Just moved my rack forward 20mm I ran offset spacers before but now they are short. I have a drift event in a week need to get this sorted also I'm running gktech flca (the longer ones) with gktech drop knuckles. I have some 1/8 inch spacers that won't help much any other options?

[derass]

What outers do you have?

'90 Maxima are 1" longer than S14. And adjustable ones, like SPL or GKTech are even longer.

That extra length with your current inners might solve the problem.

[sr vegas 240]

Not exactly sure what outers I have might be s14 but I'll try the 90 maxims ones. If they are 1 inch longer that will solve my issue.

[sr vegas 240]

Just looked up the specs on orileys and maxims ones are 5.722 s14 are 4.44 so bit over an inch I am going to pick these up and hope it's enough. Than you derass

[derass]

No problem. Someone posted that info in here years back. And when I need it, it took FOREVER to find. Here's the pic I managed to save before their link died.

[the shocker]

same set up here 05 maxima inner and 90 maxima outer

[TheRealSy90]

You do not have to pull the engine to change the steering rack bushings.


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[Bnr32gtr]

Yeah I kno that, I was talking about to move the rack forward permanently cutting/welding or just swapping to a fraction sub frame. I was looking for a quick fix before I do one of those. Think I might have fixed it tho talked to gk tech and threw some spacers to fill in the gap the pbm bushing have. Next event is on the 4th we shell see.

[Bnr32gtr]

So I think my rack is skipping u can watch the wheel bind As I hear lound/hi pitched pop/click noice.

[nism014]

can the inner tierod be adjusted back to normal after putting on tierod slipon spacers (7mm on each side).

I'm asking because I just installed IRS outter tierods, on stock inner tierods, and can't seem to adjust the tierods to make the car driveble so I can make it to the alignment shop.

Might need to get it towed.

Any tips on what I could be missing?

[TheRealSy90]

Unless you're toed out still with the tie rods set to the shortest length possible you should be able to compensate for the spacers.


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[nism014]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Unless you're toed out still with the tie rods set to the shortest length possible you should be able to compensate for the spacers.


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thats the thing, I'm toed out all the way.

Should I cut the inner tierods short? I shouldn't have to right?

[kerolah]

Hey guys, got my gktech arms and knuckles installed. seem mint when the car is in the air, not so much when its on the ground. So much contact with my wheel archs haha

So can i just cut out my wheel archs? or do i need to put in tubs to reinforce them?

[TheRealSy90]

Are you sure your caster is set properly? IMO you should run the wheel/caster as close back to the firewall as possible where it doesn't touch when steering

[kerolah]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Are you sure your caster is set properly? IMO you should run the wheel/caster as close back to the firewall as possible where it doesn't touch when steering

Not set properly yet as i haven't taken it to the shop. If it still hits with shit 3-4 degrees of caster it leaves me to my previous question can i chop them up without tubbing?

[kerolah]

Originally Posted by kerolah

Not set properly yet as i haven't taken it to the shop. If it still hits with shit 3-4 degrees of caster it leaves me to my previous question can i chop them up without tubbing?

My bad. i fixed it. I run a electric power steering pump in my silvia and it was maxing out at a certain lock when the can was stopped and still, however when i drive it gets the lock i desire.

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by kerolah

Hey guys, got my gktech arms and knuckles installed. seem mint when the car is in the air, not so much when its on the ground. So much contact with my wheel archs haha

So can i just cut out my wheel archs? or do i need to put in tubs to reinforce them?

Have you raised your suspension all the way? I needed to do that when I first installed my GKTech knuckles.

[jaysgottaredtop]

Got the long GKTech FLCAs in the mail yesterday. Quality looks nice, as per usual with them. Crazy long heim joints too for loads of adjustment range.

IMG_9510.JPG

https://www.gktech-usa.com/v2-high-c...trol-arms.html

[sr vegas 240]

Man u got sticker witht ur lca I didn't get a sticker I got drop knuckles and one pice lca I'm jealous lol

[derass]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Unless you're toed out still with the tie rods set to the shortest length possible you should be able to compensate for the spacers.

Originally Posted by nism014

thats the thing, I'm toed out all the way.

Should I cut the inner tierods short? I shouldn't have to right?

Do you guys mean toed-IN? The slip-on spacers ADD to the tie rod length. If I'm understanding you correctly, the outers are threaded all the way onto the inners, but the wheels are still toed-in.

Cutting the inner tie rod MIGHT help. But only if you have threads past where the outer is sitting right now. If not, maybe you can cut extra threads with a die.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

Got the long GKTech FLCAs in the mail yesterday. Quality looks nice, as per usual with them. Crazy long heim joints too for loads of adjustment range.
https://www.gktech-usa.com/v2-high-c...trol-arms.html

I want a pair so bad, love the gktech tension arms I got. Tons more clearance than VooDoo13 tension arms. My only issue is I can't decide which length to get. I currently run +25mm s13 lca's. Just cant decide if I'd rather run the 20-45 or 40-65. Do you know how much longer they are over stock between the tension bolt holes and the balljoint? And are both versions the same just with different inner adjustment? I wish there was a way to have adjustable length outside of the tension arm mount, that way extending it doesn't also push the tension arm outwards.