2jz wiring

[bullfrogg0]

i recently swapped a na 2jz in my s13 coupe and i dont wanna have to pay the 400-500 for a pre made wiring harness. i have a spare motor on my shop floor i want to get running that way i can just add power where needed to the harness in the car that i've already lengthened so that everything is nicely tucked away. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Preston

[bullfrogg0]

Still need this info

[bullfrogg0]

somebody, anybody?

[bullfrogg0]

Come on now, somebody knows what's up.

[c-los13]

from what i heard the wiring for 2js on s chassis is more complicated than you think
i say get it done at wire specialist instead of doing it yourself, you could burn some wire and then youll have to get a new harness
just my .02!

[bullfrogg0]

It's not 2jz to 240sx that I want info for. I just want the info on what it takes to make a 2jz run. Once I have that, I can get power or ground from pretty much anywhere I want on the car.

[zurud]

If you don't want to pay good luck. Get the wiring diagram and try to figure out yourself. Go to supraforums, there is 1j and 2j section there. Good luck.

[GSXRJJordan]

You don't want to pay to have it done, you'd like someone who does the wiring to tell you exactly what to do?

Power all sensors, injectors, and coilpacks, ground the coils, make sure all sensor grounds are intact to the ECU, and ground the ECU.

[godrifttoday]

^
U cant sleep as-well?

[bullfrogg0]

Despite the lack of help, I got it running today and will make a new thread with my diagram I've made tonite. And its a n/a motor

[bullfrogg0]

here it is, the oh so secret info that so few ppl apparently know and aren't willing to help out.



just add power and ground like it says from where ever you want in your car and you will have a running motor in no time

[R33E8]

Sweet! Here is a pdf of the pin-outs if anyone is interested..

http://www.mediafire.com/?r3p9txcoh5f1v4p

[gtprince]

thats all it takes? are you serious...

[stunnaben]

Yeah but that is just to get the motor running. You still have to get the cluster working and all that fun shit once it's in the car. Engine's aren't that complicated to get running, it's all the accessory stuff like gauges and in some of the more advanced harnesses that incorporate the chassis controls into them as well that it gets fun.

[gtprince]

i totally agree with you. but atleast i dont have to pay 300 for someone to do something i can do with the harness in the bay... saves lots of TIME and money... this will work with the key right:P... we dont have to jump it somewhere?

[bullfrogg0]

The gauges wont work except for the fuel gauge unless u go with Dakota digital boxes or if u put in aftermarket gauges. To get it running isn't hard at all with my info, but to make it plug and play is a little more work. U have to manually turn on the fuel pump or tie it in somewhere else to get power from the key like i did. U can also thin out the redundant wires like I did for a little cleaner look. I pulled out 40 wires from my harness. Mine starts up with the key and runs smoother than any ka or sr I've ever seen for literally half the price of an sr with almost double the torque.

[gtprince]

I'm gonna do some research during the week and find out which wire is for the fuel pump. and i'll let you guys know... make this whole thing turn key...

the accessories wouldnt work as yet though, I'm assuming ( windows, sunroof, locks, etc?)

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by gtprince

I'm gonna do some research during the week and find out which wire is for the fuel pump. and i'll let you guys know... make this whole thing turn key...

the accessories wouldnt work as yet though, I'm assuming ( windows, sunroof, locks, etc?)

all of those accessories are wired through the chassis harness and ignition switch using relays. they don't have anything to do with the toyota ecu except for i think the fuel pump.

get both drawings and learn how to read them is your best bet if you're determined to do it on your own.

also you should just use the original nissan wire to go to the fuel pump, i think it was black with a yellow strip iirc.

[RaNMaN]

using that logic, yes, you should be able to get it running but with the stock ecu it won't be operating 100% correctly until you also wire up the associated relays correctly. that's the only hint i'm giving you, it cost me a lot to figure that part out.

recently i did some mods and switched out to a haltech unit and have been quite pleased with it. good luck

[gtprince]

[QUOTE=RaNMaN;4155897]using that logic, yes, you should be able to get it running but with the stock ecu it won't be operating 100% correctly until you also wire up the associated relays correctly. that's the only hint i'm giving you, it cost me a lot to figure that part out.

recently i did some mods and switched out to a haltech unit and have been quite pleased with it. good luck[QUOTE=RaNMaN;4155897]

could you post the relay diagrams, that you speak of?

[bullfrogg0]

All of the accessories work. My power Windows and radio still work. I just tied the fuel pump relay "on" wire to a hot ign wire that way the pump comes on with the key.

[Flicktitty]

Good info, i'm going to add it into this thread.

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/3841...is-thread.html

[bullfrogg0]

You don't need any relays for the motor to run 100%. That guy has no idea what he's talking about. My engine runs flawless. I know it creates very little vibration cuz I have solid engine and trans mounts and the car hardly vibrates at all. I honestly believe most of the vibration is from the open dp.

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by bullfrogg0

You don't need any relays for the motor to run 100%. That guy has no idea what he's talking about. My engine runs flawless. I know it creates very little vibration cuz I have solid engine and trans mounts and the car hardly vibrates at all. I honestly believe most of the vibration is from the open dp.

okay then, i guess i don't know what i'm talking about.

the way you wired it the ecu is resetting every time you turn on/off your ignition switch. sure it runs but it won't retain memory.

but since you're so smart i'm sure you already knew that, right? :ghey:

[RaNMaN]

who needs to check for error codes anyway, it's such a waste of time.

[bullfrogg0]

Read the diagram I posted bro. Mine is wired up to retain memory. Even if it was wired up to reset it still wouldn't have any issues. There's a guy here who has already done the swap and his freeystyle and he has no issues with it. Don't get mad cuz u paid for somebody else to screw it up for u.

[RaNMaN]

you diagram is missing this part, not every power source is supposed to come from a constant or a ign switched input.

my s14 has been 2jz swapped for ~6 years and eventually i decided that i wanted it done right so i learned how to do it myself. that's all, i'm done.

[bullfrogg0]

are you dumb? i got all my info from all data/mitchell automotive systems diagrams. it was simple to just trace the power sources back to where they came from. only 1 was constant and all the rest were swtiched. dont get butt hurt cuz you paid for info i was given. now if your done insulting and not helping out, i do believe it's time for you to move on and harass someone else who's trying to help out the community since you obviously have nothing to contribute

[gtprince]

Thanks bullfrogg0. I'm gonna do this in the week, and i'll let you guys know how it turns out.

[RaNMaN]

don't worry, i honestly believe that vibration is because of your open dp too!

you were the first one to be insulting toward me, i was trying to point you in the right direction. i follow that old analogy that i would rather teach a man to fish then give him fish.

good luck though asshole, at this point i wouldn't piss on you if you were on fire!