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Old 01-13-2011, 11:48 AM   #1
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Lets see your Stitch Welds

I searched and the last thing that came up was back in 08. It only had like 3 pix. So maybe we can make a thread since a lot more people are doing it. Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:09 PM   #2
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gets the job done
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:54 PM   #3
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:57 PM   #4
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equipment specs wouldn't hurt, either. does HF sell a cheapo welder people generally use for this?
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:18 PM   #5
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equipment specs wouldn't hurt, either. does HF sell a cheapo welder people generally use for this?
why skimp out on a welder? buy a good one the first time
Lincoln weldpak 100HD is all you need. Find a used one for the price of a HF one
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:11 PM   #6
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why skimp out on a welder? buy a good one the first time
Lincoln weldpak 100HD is all you need. Find a used one for the price of a HF one
Yeah seriously, a miller is what i use at school, not as strong as the Lincoln we also have but works great if you know how to use it and set it manually properly.

You'll save more money with a used quality unit than if you buy a cheap HF one anyways
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:15 PM   #7
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welder fight!

lincoln!
miller!
lincoln!
miller!
red!
blue!
red!
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RAAAAGE
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:18 PM   #8
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Lincoln. Had to set the heat pretty low, kept burning holes till i dialed it in justttt right. Our cars are like soda cans.
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:25 PM   #9
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Jonnie Fraz of Stealth Custom Fab did my stitch welding, any info about it can be directed at him here on this board.



















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Old 01-14-2011, 08:36 AM   #10
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noob alert

why exactly do people stitch weld, just to stiffen upthe bay?
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:39 AM   #11
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if its left smooth a lot of dirt/tire dust will accumulate, all the little stitches tend to deflect said dirt as it is kicked towards the engine bay.
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:45 AM   #12
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mestizo... where did you get those strut tower plates??
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewaysil80 View Post
if its left smooth a lot of dirt/tire dust will accumulate, all the little stitches tend to deflect said dirt as it is kicked towards the engine bay.
lmao...


and mestizo, your engine bay looks as if it's been taken over by slugs, lol. It's nice to see that method of stitchwelding though... very strong. I'll stick with my little spot welds though. I really can't see where one has an advantage over another. Either way, "shit ain't flexin".
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:51 AM   #14
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I see a lot of people who stich weld just the top of the engine bay they don't weld the inside of the wheel wells with the frame. I think that's one of the more beneficial parts...



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Old 01-14-2011, 01:13 PM   #15
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what is the purpose of stitch welding, what does it do?
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:43 PM   #16
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Many purposes depending on the project.. you'll mostly see the fabrication of "tubs" to increase room for the wheels over factory well sizes. Allowing more stearing angle and less rubbing, etc.
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:59 PM   #17
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Stitch welding a chassis effectively increases the torsional rigidity of the car (reduces twisting), this allows the suspension to be easier to tune and operate the way it is supposed to. In an ideal world the chassis must never absorb energy from the suspension, the chassis is supposed to be a solid structure for the suspension to mount onto. By having a solid structure you get much more predictable handling since the suspension is doing all of the work. It is easier to tune a car when the suspension is the only thing deflecting and absorbing the impacts. It is much harder to tune a suspension when the chassis is flexing different amounts under different loads. Bracing a chassis with a front and/or rear strut tower braces and underbody braces are a good idea but these modifications cannot be fully utilized when it is still attached to a flexing chassis.

Prep the seam areas for welding and do spot welds with 1-inch intervals, alternating spot welds from the front to the rear of the car and also the left to the right to prevent any warping. Stitch welding strength doesn't come from the addition of welding wire, but actually comes from the fusion of the sheet metal panels. Overall the whole stitch welding process uses approximately two pounds of wire for a medium sized car. The torsional rigidity gained from the addition of two pounds of material is much better than any strut tower brace or underbody brace can provide.

After the stitch welding procedure the car will have a lower degree of twist under a torsional load, there is no guarantee that the degrees of twist will decrease by X% as every car responds differently to the stitch welding process. Some cars are very poorly spot welded from the factory, while others are done very well, Also the overall age/condition of the car will determine how well it responds to stitch welding work. After the service, the seams will be thoroughly protected from the elements and will not be left open to corrosion.

Key Benefits
More predictable handling
Quicker response in handling
Less interior noises (creaking and squeaking)
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Old 01-14-2011, 02:56 PM   #18
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mestizo... where did you get those strut tower plates??
Jonnie fraz made them for me to raise my Carbing strut tower bar to clear my S14 SR valve cover. However now I am running a prototype bar that Jonnie made me which clears the valve cover and attaches to the firewall.

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lmao...


and mestizo, your engine bay looks as if it's been taken over by slugs, lol. It's nice to see that method of stitchwelding though... very strong. I'll stick with my little spot welds though. I really can't see where one has an advantage over another. Either way, "shit ain't flexin".
Yup ur right about the slugs lol. It does help in either style of stitching.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:37 AM   #19
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don't mean to bump an old thread but i felt like i should post here before starting a new thread ………..

for those that have stitch welded/seam welded does it have a NOTICEABLE impact on the cars handling/stiffness ? in theory it sounds like it should, I would like to get some opinions for those who have done so.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:48 AM   #20
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bumppppppppppp
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:28 PM   #21
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Jesus christ
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:11 PM   #22
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Im in the process of doing this. Just got a Hobart 140. Have a couple pieces of the same material ill be stitch welding to practice on. Any recommendations? Ill start in areas that are least visible.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:33 AM   #23
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I brought this welder!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastwood-MIG...475445?vxp=mtr


and it looks like iam going to get the rest of my body painted first before I get the engine bay done. also any pointers I should be looking at?
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:35 AM   #24
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I brought this welder!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastwood-MIG...475445?vxp=mtr


and it looks like iam going to get the rest of my body painted first before I get the engine bay done. also any pointers I should be looking at?
im stitching first, then painting.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:35 AM   #25
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Jesus christ
this is why i ask….chill

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=19728.0 <----click on first link in that article

i know its only one test and its on a Z car but still he lost "stiffness" by almost 10%…………... so I'm curious to all those that are doing this if they really think it helps or not.

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Old 01-09-2015, 09:22 AM   #26
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this is why i ask….chill

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=19728.0 <----click on first like in that article

i know its only one test and its on a Z car but still he lost "stiffness" by almost 10%…………... so I'm curious to all those that are doing this if they really think it helps or not.
If you have the time go for it, but for some grassroots car thats gonna hit parking lots and small scale events, I wouldn't worry about it to much.
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Old 01-09-2015, 12:13 PM   #27
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Just weld the whole car!

It's better for daily driving... Lol
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:40 AM   #28
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so still no testimony??
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Old 02-15-2015, 12:53 PM   #29
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so still no testimony??
Read post #17.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:20 PM   #30
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yeah, i learned alot from post #17 and im not even stitch welding. lol

i like learning things and stuff
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