2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Hey J, the hose clamp on the driver side of that filler neck piece doesn't appear to be clamping the silicone hose to the filler neck pipe at all, looks like it's outside of the bead roll.


Also, anybody with cooling issues really just needs to invest in SPAL fans. Two 12" SPAL fans can pull 1850cfm EACH. Nothing mishimoto/ebay/fal has will do this, maybe aside from that Maserati setup. And they will bolt right onto a mishimoto fan shroud etc.

This is the truth. Quit messing with bullshit fans.

FYI, the Maserati setup is a pair of 12" SPAL fans in a shroud. But they are authentic SPAL fans, not sure if they are a custom setup, or an off the shelf fan in a custom shroud for the Maserati or not.

[TheRealSy90]

Yeah, Mishimoto fans are literally ebay/Taiwanese fans that most likely don't pull the actual CFM that they say they do. And regardless the same size fan by SPAL is almost double the CFM lol.

[jaysgottaredtop]

The clamps are on correctly. The aluminum filler pipe is superlong, I haven't bothered trimming down my radiator hose yet.

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by Frankyy

Hey guys, I'm in the early stages of doing my 2j vvti swap and have a few vac port questions. ill be running stand alone and aftermarket fuel set up. after removing all the tt stuff I noticed a lot of the vac ports on the intake manifold has what looks to be check valves and sensor clips attached to them. I am very unfamiliar to 2js and I have searched high and low and cant find the answers I'm looking for.



on these 2 pictures I was wondering if I can delete all these sensors and check valve things and just use the vac fittings? also what are these ports used for?











Also could anyone shed some light on what these ports could be used for or capped off?

First photo you don't need any of those if you are going with a standalone.

Second photo is actually related to your 4th photo. Air comes in thru the lower hose and the check valve either open or closes, that vacuumed air then goes out the top hose and THRU the intake manifold to the nipple pictured in the 4th photo, the two are connected. They just plumb through the intake manifold, not open if that makes sense.

Third photo I don't know what were looking at, take a photo further out or something.

Fifth photo same as first, don't need it if going stand alone. Repurpose that nipple if you want.

[Frankyy]

Originally Posted by Sky80

First photo you don't need any of those if you are going with a standalone.

Second photo is actually related to your 4th photo. Air comes in thru the lower hose and the check valve either open or closes, that vacuumed air then goes out the top hose and THRU the intake manifold to the nipple pictured in the 4th photo, the two are connected. They just plumb through the intake manifold, not open if that makes sense.

Third photo I don't know what were looking at, take a photo further out or something.

Fifth photo same as first, don't need it if going stand alone. Repurpose that nipple if you want.

The third photo is the nipple under the throttle body



Does it plumb into this nipple on the manifold?



So can I just close up those 2 nipples with the check valve and use the nipple on the manifold as a vac source? (Pic 4)? What Sources are you guys using for boost gauge, fpr and bov?

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by Frankyy

So can I just close up those 2 nipples with the check valve and use the nipple on the manifold as a vac source? (Pic 4)? What Sources are you guys using for boost gauge, fpr and bov?

I don't think your following me. You can use the bottom nipple as a source for boost that comes into the check valve. The top nipple and the pic 4 nipple are CONNECTED thru the manifold, as in there is literally a tube that just goes straight between them. There is no vacuum or boost source from them.

If you want to use the pic 4 nipple as a boost source, then take out the check valve and simply join those two nipples in that first pic.

[Frankyy]

Originally Posted by Sky80

I don't think your following me. You can use the bottom nipple as a source for boost that comes into the check valve. The top nipple and the pic 4 nipple are CONNECTED thru the manifold, as in there is literally a tube that just goes straight between them. There is no vacuum or boost source from them.

If you want to use the pic 4 nipple as a boost source, then take out the check valve and simply join those two nipples in that first pic.

Gotcha! Thanks a lot!

[Frankyy]

Anyone here delete the stock oil cooler and ran a sandwich plate directly to the block? If so what bolt did you use that was long enough to get to the sandwich plate to screw the adapter on

[jackal264]

Originally Posted by Frankyy

Anyone here delete the stock oil cooler and ran a sandwich plate directly to the block? If so what bolt did you use that was long enough to get to the sandwich plate to screw the adapter on

i did. i bought a oil filter union bolt off ebay and cut it down to size. it's never given me any issues. but i bought it years ago so i don't have any more info for you sorry.

[jaysgottaredtop]

Not sure if this is what you're after, but Driftmotion sells something similar to what you're describing:

http://www.driftmotion.com/JZ-Block-...6-p/dm3279.htm

[rswails]

I have read tons of posts about this setup but not much concrete info. I think cause most people go single turbo.

I'm running stock and supposedly this should be about 320HP. The car feels pretty good but not all there. Feels like its running at 70 or 80% ish. So I think I'm not making enough boost, or the timing is being pulled or something because its auto ECU. Anyone have experience with this setup who stayed stock? It seems to rev pretty smooth.

The W58 speed sensor is not the same signal as the stock auto speed sensor and I"m told that will cause a premature speed cut to happen if you hook that up. You can mod the signal to fix that though I'm told.

Do you guys have the ECU thinking its in neutral? Or do you hard wire the ECU to think its in gear? My start signal bypasses the ECU so I wont have issue with starter.

[GSR187T]

Looks like I have alot of reading to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Deepsouth]

Thought I'd show some love to this thread.

[JonathanPrem]

What are you guys doing for Throttle cables? Its seem to be long for s14--> 2jzgte with greddy style intake mani.

Are you guys upgrading your clutch master for R154's?

[jaysgottaredtop]

Originally Posted by JonathanPrem

What are you guys doing for Throttle cables? Its seem to be long for s14--> 2jzgte with greddy style intake mani.

I used a FWD Nissan cable from the junkyard. Maxima I think?

Originally Posted by JonathanPrem

Are you guys upgrading your clutch master for R154's?

Nah, stock master is fine.

[jubee]

So wondering if anyone has had any experience with future fabs exhaust manifolds? like that they offer a life time warranty and the price is good also.

Figured I would ask maybe someone here has used one.

[240sex_s14]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

This is the truth. Quit messing with bullshit fans.

FYI, the Maserati setup is a pair of 12" SPAL fans in a shroud. But they are authentic SPAL fans, not sure if they are a custom setup, or an off the shelf fan in a custom shroud for the Maserati or not.

im in the process of doing a swap myself right now, what SPAL 12' Fans should I use? can you please provide me the part number? Thanks in advance.

[jackal264]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

Nah, stock master is fine.

i had issues with the 5/8 master not fully disengaging my exedy twin. first i tried replacing the 15 year old one with a new 5/8. didn't do anything. swapped to a 3/4 and it fixed my issues.

[JonathanPrem]

Originally Posted by jackal264

i had issues with the 5/8 master not fully disengaging my exedy twin. first i tried replacing the 15 year old one with a new 5/8. didn't do anything. swapped to a 3/4 and it fixed my issues.

Where did you get the 3/4 one?

[jackal264]

Originally Posted by JonathanPrem

Where did you get the 3/4 one?

its just a wilwood 3/4. you swap the shaft with the stock one and use one of these adapter plates so that the cylinder is upright.

http://www.rigidracing.com/clutch-ma...4-s15-s12-z31/

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-1304

oh and you were asking about throttle cables. you can just cut the 240sx one down to size. i cut the extra length out from inside the car and used cable stops to make a new stop at the pedal. cable stops are a few bucks at your local parts store.

i bought the cable stops in a package of three sizes like these. i just used the biggest one.

http://cliff.hostkansas.com/images/2012/CableStop.jpg

[240drew]

Check this out same part 40$ less

Do an ebay search for Speed Sensor Isuzu Rodeo

I would include an ebay link but it will likely become obsolete

Included a picture, to help with the efan debate.

No overheating at all stock 2jz clutch and ge fan trimmed with an early 7mgte shroud.

[idjces]

I was hoping you guys could help advise on my wiring. I checked another car of mine that a shop wired up, and there's no fuses between the alternator, starter and battery, so I think i can wire up my 180sx like shown in the image?

The battery is going in the boot. It came with 0 gauge wire which ill run up along to the starter motor, have 2 wires coming off the one lug, so the second wire continues up and around to a lug on the 200A alternator. The alternator lug would have a second wire coming off to feed the fusebox.

Anything I should know about the killswitch? I see some people run them on the dashboard, not sure if i want to bother with that yet, if it really needs to be in arms reach of the driver

I'll be running an electric power steering pump, from what I've read they run a 80 Amp fuse, so depending where it ends up i'll attach off that 0 gauge wire. This is the only thing with a fuse apart from what comes off the fusebox

[Johannes]

LMK if you guys need oil cooler setup! I'm selling mine;

Earl's Oil Thermostat Sandwich plate
^10 AN O-Ring Boss Fitting (8 AN IN/OUT Adapter Fittings Included)
16 row 8 AN Oil Cooler
4 ft / 4 ft 8 AN IN/OUT lines (x2 Straight Swivel, x2 90* Swivel)


http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=651891

[jackal264]

Originally Posted by idjces

fusebox

from this picture the kill switch won't actually properly cut the power. assuming you get into an accident and the engine is still running (like you back into a wall and the battery or the cable gets grounded to the chassis) if you trip the switch the alternator will still power everything. the switch needs to separate EVERYTHING from a power source.

i run battery to a 120amp breaker. then the breaker to a 4 post switch. the other end of the battery line runs to the alternator and starter. the smaller posts on the switch run first to an 80 amp breaker then to my fuse block fuel pumps and ignition. switch is on the lower passenger window cowl.

[jackal264]

i made a crude drawing for you

[idjces]

Originally Posted by jackal264

from this picture the kill switch won't actually properly cut the power. assuming you get into an accident and the engine is still running (like you back into a wall and the battery or the cable gets grounded to the chassis) if you trip the switch the alternator will still power everything. the switch needs to separate EVERYTHING from a power source.

i run battery to a 120amp breaker. then the breaker to a 4 post switch. the other end of the battery line runs to the alternator and starter. the smaller posts on the switch run first to an 80 amp breaker then to my fuse block fuel pumps and ignition. switch is on the lower passenger window cowl.

thanks! i brought a relocation kit and the two-pole kill switch came with it, hadn't heard of the 4 way switch.

Wasn't sure on where else i need to place breakers, i can see the argument for having one next to the battery

What's your thoughts on turning the key off to kill cut the computer and subsequently engine? Just trying to think through the failure points in an accident

Anyone ran the power cable up around the engine somehow to reach the alternator? lol

Any comments on relocating the fuse boxes out of the engine bay? i'll take a look at dissecting it and try get my head around how it might work

[idjces]

Thanks! Wasn't too sure where else I need to place breakers, but I see the logic of having one next to the battery.

I brought a relocation kit and it came with the 2 pole switch, hadn't heard of either type before

Any thoughts on running the power wire across the engine with the loom, to conceal it? Maybe it will interfere with the other wires, maybe shielding it can help?

Any comments on how you can relocate the fuse block out of the engine bay?

A lot to get the head around

[jackal264]

Originally Posted by idjces

Thanks! Wasn't too sure where else I need to place breakers, but I see the logic of having one next to the battery.

I brought a relocation kit and it came with the 2 pole switch, hadn't heard of either type before

Any thoughts on running the power wire across the engine with the loom, to conceal it? Maybe it will interfere with the other wires, maybe shielding it can help?

Any comments on how you can relocate the fuse block out of the engine bay?

A lot to get the head around

i'm not to sure what process you would want to do to relocate the entire fuse block that far. i went the route of removing all factory wire and starting from scratch. but mine is a track car. it never sees the streets and i only put back the most basic features. as for the power wire running with other wires. i've only heard of people say it caused problems. i've never experienced it myself. i've run the battery cable beside all kinds of stuff and it's never cause me any issues.

[duncan351]

Originally Posted by h3rb

This is where my serial nine shifter ended up on my hatch

This is my main concern... Having to cut the tranny tunnel and then I will have to try to make a piece of metal to cover the all the opening and make a custom shifter boot to seal the tunnel off.

[Gar9854]

Anyone else having an issue with vvti 1j's not bleeding the PS what so ever?
Stock return from the rack, ptfe AN high pressure. I've idled turned the wheel back and forth probably 50+ times with the car on jack stands (idling) and barely if any bubbles are appearing. Loosened the fitting on the pump and fluid drips quickly. Set the car back on the ground and the steering is still as hard as it was without fluid.