VQ35DE swap info

[Guilty1s]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

what are you guys doing with the alternator diode circuit?

You obviously need your large gauge wire to carry the 12v charge from the alternator to the battery.
The ground is provided through the chassis/motor

You also need to provide 12v to the LightGreen/Black wire which is the signal wire for the voltage regulator. Without 12v to it, the alternator wont put out a charge.
You can easily tap into it into the plug next to the plug that you used for the 3wires for the 12v junctions. In fact, I used the same 12v source.

Edit: Info to add about the alternator
So my alternator wasn't charging after I did what I said before. For shits and giggles, I put a 12v light bulb between the other pin on the alternator and a 12 positive. On a 350z, it outputs a ground to the dash to light up the battery light while the positive end on the light is supplied through ignition hot +. Pretty much I was simulating that dash light. Boom! 14v on the mulitmeter.
In the end, I ended up taking that signal ground from the alternator and there is a plug under the hood that runs to the dash and works just like it should. Light on when the motor is not running, light off when the alternator is charging correctly, light on when it is not.


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[KansaiDrifter]

^That's interesting, I'm also chasing the charging right now, have 12v to the b terminal and pin 4 on the 2 wire plug, no charge, no light hooked up either though. I did hook up a nice ground this time to the case, I'll have to see if that works, if not I'll try a light.

[Guilty1s]

Originally Posted by KansaiDrifter

^That's interesting, I'm also chasing the charging right now, have 12v to the b terminal and pin 4 on the 2 wire plug, no charge, no light hooked up either though. I did hook up a nice ground this time to the case, I'll have to see if that works, if not I'll try a light.

Yeah. Must have that light or some sort of ground hooked up to get that charge.


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[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Guilty1s

You obviously need your large gauge wire to carry the 12v charge from the alternator to the battery.
The ground is provided through the chassis/motor

You also need to provide 12v to the LightGreen/Black wire which is the signal wire for the voltage regulator. Without 12v to it, the alternator wont put out a charge.
You can easily tap into it into the plug next to the plug that you used for the 3wires for the 12v junctions. In fact, I used the same 12v source.

Edit: Info to add about the alternator
So my alternator wasn't charging after I did what I said before. For shits and giggles, I put a 12v light bulb between the other pin on the alternator and a 12 positive. On a 350z, it outputs a ground to the dash to light up the battery light while the positive end on the light is supplied through ignition hot +. Pretty much I was simulating that dash light. Boom! 14v on the mulitmeter.
In the end, I ended up taking that signal ground from the alternator and there is a plug under the hood that runs to the dash and works just like it should. Light on when the motor is not running, light off when the alternator is charging correctly, light on when it is not.


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this is mainly what i was referring to. the 12v signal is taken care of with my jumper harness. OEM FTW.

but yeah, look here, page 22: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2004.5/sc.pdf

edit:

you've got to put either a light or a diode in there.

[Guilty1s]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

this is mainly what i was referring to. the 12v signal is taken care of with my jumper harness. OEM FTW.

but yeah, look here, page 22: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2004.5/sc.pdf

edit:

you've got to put either a light or a diode in there.

I just hooked it up to the 240sx alternator dash light. The wire is really easy to tap into.


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[ka-titties]

i dont have a 240 cluster anymore.

[Guilty1s]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

i dont have a 240 cluster anymore.

An led set to run on 12v (single resistor) or a 12v light did the job for me when I was trouble shooting how fix the issue. You could even use it as a idiot light.

Just wire it just like the fsm says.
12v ignition switched (on)/fused on the positive side ... Negative side goes to pin 3 on the alternator.

Iirc, if the circuit isn't already there at start up, just putting it after didn't make it work.


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[Guilty1s]

Has anybody else that has completed this swap had an issue where the car will not start till the ecu has been on for about 20-30 seconds. I'm not sure if it is something I missed in wiring or if it takes a sec to realize that there is no BMC, nats, ac amp, or whatever it may be.

I could crank it for 20 seconds and then it will start or I could let it sit for 20-30 seconds then it will start right up. I forgot if giving it a little crank initially to get the crank sensor to register something made a difference but that is what I got into the habit of doing anyways. You could turn it off then immediately back on as long as you don't turn the ignition power fully off. I do have my ECM reminder 12v hooked up correctly.


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[ClaytonTNelson]

Im having a little trouble with the the throttle control relay and the ecm relay.
I see people are doing it in diiferent ways to wire them
Can someone give me some information on how to properly wire them in.
Thanks,
Clayton.

[Guilty1s]

My way... Lol

How are they wired now. Can you hear them click on?


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[ClaytonTNelson]

They are wired the way you showed in the write up. But I hear the throttle body power on when the ignition is off.

[ClaytonTNelson]

Originally Posted by Guilty1s

My way... Lol

How are they wired now. Can you hear them click on?


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Double checked my wiring again today. everything seems correct. but the the throttle body doesn't become powered till the ignition is closed, and then its only for about five seconds..

Im stumped... i even bought a spare ecu and flahed it to see if that was the issue. but same symptoms.

[ClaytonTNelson]

Do we have other shops that are capable of making a standalone wiring harness other than zfever? I'm trying to get this car done but this wiring keeps holding me back..
I just want to send a harness to someone and be done with it.

Any suggestions or referrals to someone that could handle this for me would be greatly appreciated.

[DEMo]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

i dont have a 240 cluster anymore.

I'm using a Nexus 7 tablet with bluetooth OBD2 port.

Edit: Click for VQ S-chassis FB group

[dkim1985]

is there a difference in the DE and HR tranny? will an 09 tranny fit an 04 engine?

[ka-titties]

you have to use the bell housing from the cd001 trans

[Guilty1s]

Yes^ but that job isn't a simple bolt on affair

http://m.my350z.com/forum/showthread...906&styleid=69

350z HR trans are pretty much the same as 370z trans.


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[unwtdhero]

Tried to join the vq schassis group on facebook, cant find it.
Look me up and add me Logan Hartley

[dkim1985]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

you have to use the bell housing from the cd001 trans

Originally Posted by Guilty1s

Yes^ but that job isn't a simple bolt on affair

370Z to 350Z Transmission Conversion - MY350Z.COM Forums

350z HR trans are pretty much the same as 370z trans.


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what if its an 2009 DE trans?

[Guilty1s]

I think you mean cd009 which is the on for the transmission in 04-06 Zs. The cd001 was found in 03s but had temperamental 3rd gear syncros. Many where warrentied and replaced with the revised cd009


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[Guilty1s]

Wait... I read that wrong... There is no 09 de trans.. Atleast from a Z... Maybe from a G.. Idk


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[DEMo]

S-Chassis VQ Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/252353284918213/

[ClaytonTNelson]

I think i read somewhere that 350z test pipes will fit a VQ'ed s chassis. Can anyone confirm this?

[ClaytonTNelson]

Originally Posted by ClaytonTNelson

I think i read somewhere that 350z test pipes will fit a VQ'ed s chassis. Can anyone confirm this?

350Z test pipe DON'T FIT. just in case anyone else was wondering.

They hang to low and if the were shortened to the correct height the flange that faces the rear of the car would hit the frame rails.

[ka-titties]

Getting ready to build some headers. 2" primaries

[ka-titties]

Anyone figure out a way to run the fans off of the CAN system? The stock fan signal comes from the IPDM and gets the signal to turn on/off through CAN lines from the ECU. That'd be pretty slick if there was a way.

[Jissan]

I wired Mishimoto Fans through the stock wiring with this writeup.

Installed a Mishimoto fan shroud today... - MY350Z.COM Forums

EDIT: Admittedly, I'm running stock VQ35HR 07 Z wiring. DOH!

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Jissan

I wired Mishimoto Fans through the stock wiring with this writeup.

Installed a Mishimoto fan shroud today... - MY350Z.COM Forums

EDIT: Admittedly, I'm running stock VQ35HR 07 Z wiring. DOH!

yeah, you've got the IPDM installed i think. from reading your thread you have the whole wiring system installed in your s13 right?

[Jissan]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

yeah, you've got the IPDM installed i think. from reading your thread you have the whole wiring system installed in your s13 right?

Yeah, my original wiring was so hacked up there was no making any sense of it. I decided to just gut the car and go with the complete untouched wiring for the Z. The IPDM is a pain though. It consolidates a lot of relays and such that should be accessible for maintenance, thus making it necessary to replace the whole unit should an enclosed circuit fail. This is often the case and there are recalls related to Nissan IPDMs. The techs don't like diagnosing them and will tell you that there is no way to check one, even though the FSM states that connecting the unit to a Consult III will give you a status report of individual issues...

[PoorMans180SX]

Do any of you guys have a jig for shortening the shifter bracket? My trans came with the linkage already shortened, so I have no idea how much to shorten the bracket. I know DEMo said he could do it, but I can't get a hold of him, and I'm not looking to spend $250 on a billet piece that no one will ever see.