Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I have the brakes but not the rotors. I need to know weight of ROTORS before I buy them. I have 30mm ROTORS just not 26mm ROTORS.

idgaf about weight on the front of the car that doesn't spin. I DO care if one set of rotors is 1lb+ difference in weight though, THAT makes me wet

26mm = 17.5# Known factor. Now lets do some math...

.673# per mm, 30mm rotor is ~5# heavier at 22#

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

26mm = 17.5# Known factor. Now lets do some math...

.673# per mm, 30mm rotor is ~5# heavier at 22#

Thats assuming theyre manufactured the same way and only the diameter is bigger. But thats a good approach

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Thats assuming theyre manufactured the same way and only the diameter is bigger. But thats a good approach

30mm has a bit more mass to absorb heat a little better. Or if you want to save weight, get those brackets that allow you to use 2-piece 350Z brembo rotors.

[wildnas]

Where can I ask someone and get some help on buying this project s13 s20 swapped car thanks

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by wildnas

Where can I ask someone and get some help on buying this project s13 s20 swapped car thanks

what project s13 sr20 swapped car? no link... no pic... no info...

you may want to post said information with your question above as these types of inquiries usually end in brutal amounts of negative backlash.

[wildnas]

Okay heres the car.......213k on body the New Motor Has supposibly 30-40k

What his post says
Hi my name is Rich and I have a 92 240sx up for sale. I was in the process of doing a sr20det engine swap but can't afford to finish the car. The car still needs the following to be installed to run. Wiring harness, battery, exhaust, cooling fans to be connected and all turbo lines. Car has sat for 2-3yrs Suspension and brakes all need to be redone as well. All rust has been taken care of by Grez Automotive on Boston rd. Brand new clutch was installed while installing motor and transmission but will need to be bled. Car is solid and good for anyone looking for a hobbie/project car. My loss is your gain. I have 7500 into the car looking to get 2k firm. Clean title in hand and need car gone immediately. You can reach me at show contact info
anytime after 4pm during the week and after lunch I'm weekends.

[PatPs13]

This is an unusual problem but maybe someone can help me out.

I left my s13 sitting outside for about a month and now it has a yellow jacket nest inside of my passenger side mirror. Any ideas?

I soaked the mirror in wasp spray last night and wrapped it in saran wrap to prevent any more of them from getting in but now there's a huge swarm flying around my car LOL

[Xaser]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

This is an unusual problem but maybe someone can help me out.

I left my s13 sitting outside for about a month and now it has a yellow jacket nest inside of my passenger side mirror. Any ideas?

I soaked the mirror in wasp spray last night and wrapped it in saran wrap to prevent any more of them from getting in but now there's a huge swarm flying around my car LOL

for a few days put some film around the mirror, when pass the wasp period they gonna find another place

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

This is an unusual problem but maybe someone can help me out.

I left my s13 sitting outside for about a month and now it has a yellow jacket nest inside of my passenger side mirror. Any ideas?

I soaked the mirror in wasp spray last night and wrapped it in saran wrap to prevent any more of them from getting in but now there's a huge swarm flying around my car LOL

Get your 45, shoot wildy at the flyers, ten burn the ones out of the mirror again, shooting any that fly out. Then toast your victory with good liquor and a cigar

[DJTTon]

I got water leaking into my trunk. I pinpointed that the drops of water are coming from the plastic finisher piece at the bottom of the rear window. There are 7 phillips screws and they all screw into individual plastic grommets. Leaks come through these grommets and bleed water into my trunk, 5 of those are some replaceable clip ($4 per clip) and 2 others are window spacers (these seem trickier to replace).

Instead of replacing all of them, are they any alternatives to reusing them? Maybe taking them out and putting in an o-ring/gasket underneath? Any suggestions?

[oLemurs]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I got water leaking into my trunk. I pinpointed that the drops of water are coming from the plastic finisher piece at the bottom of the rear window. There are 7 phillips screws and they all screw into individual plastic grommets. Leaks come through these grommets and bleed water into my trunk, 5 of those are some replaceable clip ($4 per clip) and 2 others are window spacers (these seem trickier to replace).

Instead of replacing all of them, are they any alternatives to reusing them? Maybe taking them out and putting in an o-ring/gasket underneath? Any suggestions?

FLEX TAPE!!!!! jk dont do that

[oLemurs]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

This is an unusual problem but maybe someone can help me out.

I left my s13 sitting outside for about a month and now it has a yellow jacket nest inside of my passenger side mirror. Any ideas?

I soaked the mirror in wasp spray last night and wrapped it in saran wrap to prevent any more of them from getting in but now there's a huge swarm flying around my car LOL

get a tennis racket and go to town, it always works on bees im sure itll work on wasps

[oLemurs]

Originally Posted by wildnas

Okay heres the car.......213k on body the New Motor Has supposibly 30-40k

What his post says
Hi my name is Rich and I have a 92 240sx up for sale. I was in the process of doing a sr20det engine swap but can't afford to finish the car. The car still needs the following to be installed to run. Wiring harness, battery, exhaust, cooling fans to be connected and all turbo lines. Car has sat for 2-3yrs Suspension and brakes all need to be redone as well. All rust has been taken care of by Grez Automotive on Boston rd. Brand new clutch was installed while installing motor and transmission but will need to be bled. Car is solid and good for anyone looking for a hobbie/project car. My loss is your gain. I have 7500 into the car looking to get 2k firm. Clean title in hand and need car gone immediately. You can reach me at show contact info
anytime after 4pm during the week and after lunch I'm weekends.

honestly looks pretty good, i bought a car like that for 2600 although the guy seems a little weird. ask why hes selling see if hes legit.

[PatPs13]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, mirrors are taken care of.. now they moved underneath my pop ups

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

26mm = 17.5# Known factor. Now lets do some math...

.673# per mm, 30mm rotor is ~5# heavier at 22#

One issue I am having is there are 17.5 or 18lb 30mm rotors according to rockauto catalogue. Another issue is that each rotor manufacturer may make rotors heavier or lighter depending on many things. So my solution is to just buy some and weight them and use them no matter what lol

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by wildnas

Okay heres the car.......213k on body the New Motor Has supposibly 30-40k

What his post says
Hi my name is Rich and I have a 92 240sx up for sale. I was in the process of doing a sr20det engine swap but can't afford to finish the car. The car still needs the following to be installed to run. Wiring harness, battery, exhaust, cooling fans to be connected and all turbo lines. Car has sat for 2-3yrs Suspension and brakes all need to be redone as well. All rust has been taken care of by Grez Automotive on Boston rd. Brand new clutch was installed while installing motor and transmission but will need to be bled. Car is solid and good for anyone looking for a hobbie/project car. My loss is your gain. I have 7500 into the car looking to get 2k firm. Clean title in hand and need car gone immediately. You can reach me at show contact info
anytime after 4pm during the week and after lunch I'm weekends.

this is a good deal if its real. I dont understand how you can "not afford to finish a car" once the motor is already in the engine bay. Just hook some stuff up and go?
its not like it needs fabrication work or special swap parts. sr20 is basically at home in that car.

If it was near me. I bet I could clean it up in a couple days you wouldn't even know it was ever a project. Do all maint. items of course (belt/filters/hoses/plugs/tires/&c) & wash it inside and out. A week and its a $5000 car again.

[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I got water leaking into my trunk. I pinpointed that the drops of water are coming from the plastic finisher piece at the bottom of the rear window. There are 7 phillips screws and they all screw into individual plastic grommets. Leaks come through these grommets and bleed water into my trunk, 5 of those are some replaceable clip ($4 per clip) and 2 others are window spacers (these seem trickier to replace).

Instead of replacing all of them, are they any alternatives to reusing them? Maybe taking them out and putting in an o-ring/gasket underneath? Any suggestions?

Water penetration is a big deal. If you can afford $4 clips to prevent your car from rusting out, then you shouldn’t own a 20+ year old car.

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by Agamemnon

Water penetration is a big deal. If you can afford $4 clips to prevent your car from rusting out, then you shouldn’t own a 20+ year old car.

I'm actually going to buy those but as far as those 2 glass spacers, those poke into the window sealant itself. Can I replace them without damaging the glass/possibly cracking? I'm looking for some insight here.


Also does anyone know where we can buy those push type zip ties for holding harnesses? Im trying to put my interior harnesses back into the car but I dont know where to buy the OEM replacement body zip ties



Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I'm actually going to buy those but as far as those 2 glass spacers, those poke into the window sealant itself. Can I replace them without damaging the glass/possibly cracking? I'm looking for some insight here.

According to the FSM you don't need to remove the space or seal. Find out where its leaking and use a window caulking. If you still want the spacer its part #79714-65F00

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by Agamemnon

According to the FSM you don't need to remove the space or seal. Find out where its leaking and use a window caulking. If you still want the spacer its part #79714-65F00

The clips themselves are leaking through. Ive looked underneath from the inside and the clips drip water, every single one of them. Those 5 I can easily replace, but the 2 that are called A, Spacer Glass just got me worried.

Where in the FSM did you read that? I've looked all over the BT section and couldnt find anything mentioning those particular clips.


And when you say window caulk are you referring to things like the 3M Window-Weld?

[Agent_S13]

Where have the sets of old school sized wheels gone?

I'm referring to all those popular 90's style 15/16/17 inch wheels that were on most/all JDM vehicles in the 80's/90'/00's?

I understand that time, accidents, etc have meant fewer and fewer 90's cars nowadays but wouldn't those old school sets of wheels survived or at least have a better survival rate compared to a car?

I occasionally see a set being sold here/online, etc but if I wanted to get a set of 17x9 +12 for my stock bodied S13 --- what would my options be? Order a custom set? Or is there a site where people are hoarding these sizes (along with 15's and 16's) and are hoping they go up in price?

TLDR Version - I'm old, drive my S13 once a month and want 17 inch wheels/tires to fit my stock fenders. Where have those wheels/sizes gone?

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[jumpman2334]

they have gone no where. they are still around and plentiful. have you ever heard of google? there are a shit load of 17x9 wheels.


also for 15/16s, you may want to look into the dorisha thread.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Agent_S13

TLDR Version - I'm old, drive my S13 once a month and want 17 inch wheels/tires to fit my stock fenders. Where have those wheels/sizes gone?

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

eh, finding higher offset and wide wheels is pretty uncommon now. you can still find them fairly easy in Japan off Yahoo Auctions Japan and Croooober. i run 17x8.5 +30 and 17x9.5 +38 Advan Super Racing Gen 2s on my S13 hatch with rolled fenders (no pull) and factory -1 deg camber.

you just need to hunt around in Japan. the bulk of wheel companies making cheaper wheels now cater to the stance crowd of 17x9 +15 to +0 for the most part. if you want that old school wheel setup, gotta go across the pond for the most part man.

[jumpman2334]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

eh, finding higher offset and wide wheels is pretty uncommon now. you can still find them fairly easy in Japan off Yahoo Auctions Japan and Croooober. i run 17x8.5 +30 and 17x9.5 +38 Advan Super Racing Gen 2s on my S13 hatch with rolled fenders (no pull) and factory -1 deg camber.

you just need to hunt around in Japan. the bulk of wheel companies making cheaper wheels now cater to the stance crowd of 17x9 +15 to +0 for the most part. if you want that old school wheel setup, gotta go across the pond for the most part man.

+12 is not a 'high offset'. you don't have to shop in japan to find 17x9 +12 wheels. rays makes a bunch of 17x9 +12 wheels and just about every stateside vendor who sells Japanese wheels will have no problem taking your money. I know there are other mfgs out there that make 17x9s with a higher offset that can be lowered with a spacer(+25-40mm-ish), such as CRs (come in 17x9 +17 and higher offsets too). im also sure there are all sorts of rep wheel companies making 17x9 with a middle ground to lower offset as well.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Agent_S13

Where have the sets of old school sized wheels gone?

I'm referring to all those popular 90's style 15/16/17 inch wheels that were on most/all JDM vehicles in the 80's/90'/00's?

I understand that time, accidents, etc have meant fewer and fewer 90's cars nowadays but wouldn't those old school sets of wheels survived or at least have a better survival rate compared to a car?

I occasionally see a set being sold here/online, etc but if I wanted to get a set of 17x9 +12 for my stock bodied S13 --- what would my options be? Order a custom set? Or is there a site where people are hoarding these sizes (along with 15's and 16's) and are hoping they go up in price?

TLDR Version - I'm old, drive my S13 once a month and want 17 inch wheels/tires to fit my stock fenders. Where have those wheels/sizes gone?

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

Cosmis, Square, Rays, Volk Racing, a few others. They go on sale at Enjuku a lot. MTFP here in Clarksville, TN can get a ton of different wheels in your preferred sizes too

[VTEC_lol]

Any idea if my head block is machinable or complete trash? Rod bearing failed and piston hit the head on #4 cylinder

[S14DB]

It would be cheaper to find a new head then pay a machinist to re-dome all your bowls.

[S-Nation S13]

Coolant Question .. yes I’ve search but still no definitive answer.

Redtop SR20det

* what is the normal operating temp for this damn thing?

I’ve read some say 200, but also say 200 is to hot.

I noticed that on idle and city driving I’m pretty stable at 180ish , when I drive on the freeway it’s a different story underboost/long drives the highest I’ve seen 93’C (PFC Commander) about 200’F!

I have an aftermarket temp gauge (PBM EVDM) and the highest I’ve seen that thing is 215-220’F- ish TEMP sensor place on upper radiator hose.

When I reach 200ish I let of the gas and pretty much coast it (i have the heater on max) and it usually cools it down 190’s. I consistently have to have the heater running to help cool the engine. Heater core isn’t clogged it’s a damn sauna in the cabin which tells me that coolant is flowing in and out the core.

Any advice? I plan on burping the system tomorrow. I have no leaks what so ever so please don’t tell me I have a leak (i take my car out every once in a while it’ll usually sit for a week or two and i don’t see a spot of coolant on the ground)

Any one have tips on burping the system. I usually have the front of the car jacked-up, idle the car until upper and lower hose gets hot, heater on blast highest blower speed and cranked to the highest temp, i have a funnel to let bubbles escape through the filler cap, I massage the upper hose to help the air bubbles escape. * anything else i can do please fill me in, it’s not normal to keep having to run the heater just to drive the car on long trips.

MISHIMOTO Aluminum Rad
MISHIMOTO Rad cap
MISHIMOTO Dual efans with aluminum shroud

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don’t tell me it’s my efan set-up I’ve seen built SR’s run the same efan set-up and run with no issues.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Standard]

Do SR's have the little bleeder valve on the intake mani like the KA's? If so make sure you're using that. Also, I like to use a spill free funnel with attachments to get it as high as possible. I had the same issue on my KA and the problem ended up being trapped air bubbles. I bled the damn thing a million times. Well, a million and one is what it needed, just run the thing for like an hour. You'll get it

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

Any one have tips on burping the system.

I would say your temp range is on the higher side, 180 should be normal for spirited driving or low speed on a hot AF day.

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiat...dp/B01I40ZQWE/



I have this thing, works well. I run the system until its a rolling boil, heater on fans off, keeping the funnel full a few inches then I turn the car off and leave the funnel in for about 5-10 minutes, plug it and dump the funnel contents back into the bottle.

Haven't had an issue, EXCEPT that once the rubber grommet on the green adapter in the kit stayed in the rad fill and caused high high pressure, bursting a OEM manifold hose. So, yea, make sure that little guy comes out with the funnel adapter.