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Old 07-28-2011, 10:07 AM   #31
thefro526
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One of the most rad 350z's on the planet.

I dig it.

Also, I dig what you're doing with the LS and stuff. Usually I'd be all like "Ruining the Culture" but something about yours is different. Maybe it's because you've got style.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:13 AM   #32
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98 Fbody LS1
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royal_T View Post
98 Fbody LS1

yea, figured. look into trying to get a 99 block and up if you can,
just my honest opinion.. its that important, if your going to stick
around the high rpms.. (likely)

Seen it happen too many times,
I'm GM asep certified, work at a chevrolet dealership.
good luck with your swap!
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:51 PM   #34
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Thanks bro,, I will keep that in mind when i blow this one....lol.. But its to late now,, I am actually way ahead of these pics and the engine is already built. I did it this way so you guys would not have to wait months for pics..lol
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:05 PM   #35
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Pretty sure theres no difference from 99 to 98
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:09 PM   #36
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I have a 98 bottom end with and upgraded oil pump and ARP rod bolts. No complaints from me. I think you'll be fine Royal_T
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:10 PM   #37
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no prob its just a precaution, have fun with it!

I'll stay tuned in
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:05 PM   #38
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this thing is going to be mean!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:10 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefro526 View Post
One of the most rad 350z's on the planet.

I dig it.

Also, I dig what you're doing with the LS and stuff. Usually I'd be all like "Ruining the Culture" but something about yours is different. Maybe it's because you've got style.
Co-signed...
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:25 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmhossain View Post
I have a 98 bottom end with and upgraded oil pump and ARP rod bolts. No complaints from me. I think you'll be fine Royal_T
Thanks bro,, I know I wont have any prb..

Quote:
Originally Posted by thefro526 View Post
One of the most rad 350z's on the planet.

I dig it.

Also, I dig what you're doing with the LS and stuff. Usually I'd be all like "Ruining the Culture" but something about yours is different. Maybe it's because you've got style.
Thanks bro... I hope you guys like what I am about to do.. Going back to all black wheels.. Have a new bumper and hood but if I don't like how the front looks I will def change it..
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:28 PM   #41
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nice build bro looks great
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:04 AM   #42
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weekly updates are a great idea..cant wait to see what comes of this. will be staying tuned
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:08 AM   #43
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Weekly updates are torture!!! Shame on you!!! Gahh!!!
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:35 AM   #44
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srry if i missed it somewhere along the way,..but what happen to the VQ?

...always loved ur car,...should be awesome!
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:57 AM   #45
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First I saw this car on my350z. Loved it
Then I saw it in person at GGP. Loved it
Now you're going LS1. LOVE IT!

This is gonna be so badass when its done!
Post some damn updates!
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:58 AM   #46
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This car is one of the main reasons I've been holding out for a PPW Z33.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:33 PM   #47
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Okay folks here I am with week 2 update.. I plan on updating every Sunday...


STAGE 1: Phase 2 'Cam/Pulley Install'




Lets start this off with the Beer of the week.. We have here folks 'Mississippi Mud' Its a Black & Tan beer which has a little kick to it.. I also love the bottle it comes in, makes me feel like I should be sitting on a porch throwing meat to alligators..lol



Okay what I am installing today is a MS4 Cam from Texas Speed Shop and a ASP Harmonic Balancer. Now I bought the the Texas Speed Shop Camshaft package that comes with a Texas Speed Hardened Chromoly Pushrods and Dual Valve Sprigs.. I will install those later..

MS4 CamShaft Package = $699.99

ASP Harmonic Balancer = $214.99


Okay lets get started on removing the old stuff. First on the list is the balancer. You will need a 1" socket to remove the bolt that holds it in place..


A braker bar is a must when it comes to taking off this damn bolt..


Again Advance Auto Parts come in handing when I needed to rent a tool.. I went there to pick up a Pulley puller. This tool is a must and really the only way you can actually get this dang pulley off the engine.


Tool set up...


The claw hooks grab the pulley and pulls it away from the engine.. As you begin to tightening the bolt it starts to get harder and harder to do.


That is when a pole comes in handy...lol


You know you are doing it right when you start to see silver from behind the pulley.


Just to give you an idea of the size difference between the ASP pulley and OEM pulley.. ASP gives you around a 15% more power, every bet counts..


Next we can remove the timing chain cover.. This requires you to use a 10mm,, really easy..


Bam!!, look at the LS6 oil pump and LS2 timing chain... Good stuff..


Now we can remove the timing chain sprocket, Unbolt the 3 cam gear bolts and remove the gear, letting the chain droop down into the oil pan for now


Next is the retainer plate


Next you'll see a black/brown cam retainer plate behind the gear, held on by 4 10mm bolts. Unbolt and remove this too.


remove, the bolts..



Out with the old cam....


And in with the new.. The MS4 cam is a 239/242 .649"/.609" Camshaft.... Oh yeah...


Now it is time to prep the new cam for install. Coat the whole thing with fresh motor oil, and transfer your 3 camgear bolts (or waterpump bolts if you were using those) to the end of the new cam so again you have a handle to grip onto.



Now take your time installing the new cam, and keep on coating the cam with fresh oil as you go..



Almost done,, the 3 camgear bolts come in handy towards the end when you don't have nothing to grab onto,, so def do this..



Once in, re-install the cam retainer plate and its 4 10mm bolts. I usually put some locktite on the 4 bolts and the GM torque spec on them is 18lbft.


Then install the timing gear, and torque spec on these is 18lbft as well.


Now since the timing chain cover was off, I decided to spice it up some.. So I painted it a black crinkle. I think it turned out great.


Now for the time being I used the OEM balancer bolt to install the new ASP balancer. Now the Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Installation Pass-to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed) needs to be torqued to 240lbft. And then remove bolt and replace with an ARP balancer bolt and torque to 37lbft. I will do this later once tranny is installed.

Well hope you enjoyed this weeks post...

Total spent: $2,464.98

STAGE 1: Phase 3 'rocker arms/valve springs/ head Install'
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:37 PM   #48
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Lookin' good, lookin' good
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:48 PM   #49
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I'm a bit leery of using mobile1 as assembly lube, that's kinda why they make assembly lube. If you use today's synthetic oils in the fresh engine, they are so good at protecting that it won't let it break in properly and it could never seal or wear in with the lifters correct. I always always use base cheap oil or actual break in oil for first starting/500mile oil and only use assembly lube on the cam and rotating assembly bearings/etc, and just a skim at that. When you crank before firing, make sure you have oil pressure, then fire. If you have oil pressure through the filter and whatnot that means that the cam/etc will already be coated before it's fired. The assembly lube is also designed to dissipate in oil. Just how I do it, never had any issues, but have seen issues with using mobile1 too early.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:55 PM   #50
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That wrinkle black is sick

I did my valve covers on my ls when I did my swap
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:53 PM   #51
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That is a crucial ass cam! Mine is a super baby cam in comparison, haha. Mine is only 225/225 and .510".

Should make for some awesome sexy popcorn idling.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:45 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansaiDrifter View Post
I'm a bit leery of using mobile1 as assembly lube, that's kinda why they make assembly lube. If you use today's synthetic oils in the fresh engine, they are so good at protecting that it won't let it break in properly and it could never seal or wear in with the lifters correct. I always always use base cheap oil or actual break in oil for first starting/500mile oil and only use assembly lube on the cam and rotating assembly bearings/etc, and just a skim at that. When you crank before firing, make sure you have oil pressure, then fire. If you have oil pressure through the filter and whatnot that means that the cam/etc will already be coated before it's fired. The assembly lube is also designed to dissipate in oil. Just how I do it, never had any issues, but have seen issues with using mobile1 too early.
Oh man never thought about that.. I just followed some of the info I got from LS1tech.com. They never stated any problems.. I will look out for that..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo View Post
That is a crucial ass cam! Mine is a super baby cam in comparison, haha. Mine is only 225/225 and .510".

Should make for some awesome sexy popcorn idling.
hahaha yup going to sound nasty..
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:27 PM   #53
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Okay KansaiDrifter,, I will be coating all my parts with this stuff mpz spray lube..

Thanks bro..
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:53 PM   #54
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for what its worth royal_t, i talked to a friend of mine who's AERA certified (american engine rebuilders association) about the synthetic oil for break in debate. his opinion is that if the engine is made to run synthetic oil, like higher end and newer cars, then using the synthetic oil for break in is perfectly fine. as far as using oil as assembly lube, i forgot to ask him on that one. my opinion is use it as kansai drifter said. it dissolves in oil so its perfectly safe
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:07 PM   #55
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I'll make sure to check up on this thread often!

I love how detailed you are being with everything!
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:41 PM   #56
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+1 on price posting.. That's just good looks for the community!

GL for another my350 bro
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:59 AM   #57
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Nice build, enjoying the progress!
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:14 AM   #58
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engine oil is good for rebuilding, when the engine will
be immediately fired up within the day or 2 max.

engine lube is good when it will sit for a couple of days,
I used white assembly grease/lube on my lsx. sat in there for about 4 days.
Not ONE problem cranking it up, everything was properly lubricated after
it fired up first try.

While the issue is there, its extremely minor as long as everything is
lubricated well. However, unless the engine will start the same day..
I would stay away from just lubricating with only oil.
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:22 PM   #59
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^^ I agree with you and that is why I am going to use the lube cause the engine is not going to be started for some time..


Thanks everyone for the kind words...they are a huge motivation to me and this is the main reason why I love building cars..


Anyways,, since it is about to be hump day (Wednesday for people that don't know). I had to get a workbench cause working on fold out tables is not cutting it for me...lol

I also cleaned up the garage just a little..





I might update little pics from time to time, during the week if something comes up that need to be posted.. Like little treats for you guys.. lol

Tell next week enjoy.
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:26 PM   #60
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Loving this build. Can't wait to get your thoughts on the V8 in your car.
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