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05-09-2013, 10:27 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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WTB SR20DET Redtop Oil Pickup Tube
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05-10-2013, 07:10 AM | #2 |
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Lol. What an idiot thing to do.
Just to let you know you can use a blacktop oil pickup. It's stronger than the weak welded red top pickup. Don't forget you'll need a new gasket too. Nissan Factory JDM Oil Strainer Pickup Tube 15050-65F01 - Nissan 240SX SR20DET |
05-10-2013, 10:13 AM | #3 | |
Leaky Injector
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05-10-2013, 10:24 AM | #4 |
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People on here overprice used junk, that's why. Just call beforehand to make sure they have it ready to ship, they tend to sell when they don't have them in stock.
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05-10-2013, 08:32 PM | #6 |
Leaky Injector
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05-10-2013, 10:03 PM | #7 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Thats actually kinda smart drilling on the sides of the pickup. If the oil pan gets dented and pushed to the sump, itll still pull oil thru the drilled holes. Idea is great, execution is flawed since they drilled thru the damn screen.
Also, if you're gonna get a new sump, get an S14 sump since they're upgraded over S13 sumps. They're welded on the tube better, less likelier of the sump just falling off. |
05-11-2013, 09:35 AM | #8 | |
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yes you want to buy a blacktop one. it has a reinforced bracket to hold the oil pick up.
my first engine starved of oil because my redtop oil pick up broke off the 2-3 tiny tack welds
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06-07-2013, 06:55 PM | #10 |
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the one in the photo IS a blacktop one.
my brother and i bought a 180sx kouki front clip for his truck and the oil pickup had the same thing done to it. i guess its common in j-land? |
06-07-2013, 08:30 PM | #11 | |
Leaky Injector
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This is the one i bought, They were identical. Nissan Factory JDM Oil Strainer Pickup Tube 15050-65F01 - Nissan 240SX SR20DET |
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06-08-2013, 12:07 AM | #12 | |
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oem redtop pickup looks like this, the opening on the bottom is much smaller on the redtop one. |
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06-08-2013, 12:55 AM | #13 |
Leaky Injector
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Ahh. Well that is good news. Thanks for that bit of info.
UPDATE. Turns out i ran into more problems anyway. While installing the came i, snapped it half. Just following the FSM, tightened the cam caps from inside to outside. SHOULD have done them all equally. I just got a replacement cam this week and hope to have it up and running tomorrow. Going from RHD(240) to LHD(wifes neon) is a hard change. Damn brain cant figure out which side the wiper switch is on!! Plus i floor it and there no spool. GOD I MISS MY CAR. |
06-08-2013, 06:55 PM | #14 |
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When installing the cams your only supposed to tighten them a little at a time from inside to outside so that it all goes down semi-evenly. Don't just tighten the middle cap all the way down at first.
Also I still have that redtop pick up if you want it. |
06-08-2013, 07:09 PM | #15 | |
Leaky Injector
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06-08-2013, 08:26 PM | #16 |
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I still have a pair of stock redtop cams for sale if you need.
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06-08-2013, 08:47 PM | #17 |
Leaky Injector
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i bought a set already. i just got the car running today. Heres a question for ya.
The cams that came out of the car had a number stamped on them and the new cams didnt. coincidence? Neither of the replacement cams had the stamp on them. I do realise one is exhaust and one is intake, thats irrelevant. |
06-09-2013, 04:29 AM | #18 |
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I don't ever recall seeing such a stamp.
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06-09-2013, 06:32 AM | #19 |
Leaky Injector
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06-09-2013, 09:59 PM | #20 | ||
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Quote:
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When installing cams you tighten the front most caps FIRST to 2nm (one nearest front of engine) first, and then go inside (middle) outward to like 2nm. Then when you go back around you just go inside to outside to 6 nm, and then go over them all again to 12. I could be off but that's off the top of my head. I think the last one may be like 11.5 or something but I just goto 12.
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