2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[dale_huevoGM6]

quick question guys. im putting a 2jzgte nonvvti into my s14 can i use the stock throttle cable bracket ?

[bkg775]

I'm pretty sure you can it'll be alot of excess becase our throttle cables were meant to route to the passenger side but you should be fine.

[Black R]

Originally Posted by bkg775

It's all over the internet on how to do it but if anyone is interested I can take some pics but here's the run down:
the 3 Points of Connectivity for the big 3 upgrade:

1. 0 gauge wire connect to the Alternator power feed to the positive terminal on the Battery. (Keep the factory wiring to the 75A fuse)
2. 0-2 gauge wire from chassis ground to the Negative terminal.
3. Run 0 gauge from enginle block to chassis

- Super basic rundown but that's it in a nutshell.

Hopefully this helps someone out

Thanks for sharing that.

How are you doing #1 and keeping the fuse?

Just running one inline?

[bkg775]

The 0 gauge from the alternator feed stud to the battery I used an inline 125A fuse. For the factory ALT fuse I ran thicker gauge wiring to the factory alternator feed stud to the ALT fuse (like 6 or 8 gauge) in the engine bay fusebox.
1. from alternator to 125A fuse to pos. battery terminal
2. from factory ALT fuse to Alternator to postive battery terminal.

I've been trying to get pics up for those that have PM'd me about it I just haven't had a chance to an I've got a potatoe phone.

Tonight I'll have som epics I hope.

[bkg775]

So hopefully once done I'll have some pics up for my new fan and panel setup but here goes: My car was running 215-220 temp wise on the highway with both fans on and no cooler than 215 at a stop. I've seen others say there 200s cruising around but I can't be comfortable with that haha.

Currently, I've got a perma-Cool 12.5" 3300 CFM pusher and 12" isis Puller, the perma cool pusher is decent but alot of air get wasted going across instead of thru the rad.

So my brothers made some simple cooling panels to go from the sides of the radiator to the headlight (Silvia Front) temps dropped dramatically to 180s to 190 max in traffic. Honestly I hoped it would work this well but wasn't sure.

So for those of you having cooling problems definately do ducting work bc it made a huge dfference.

I'll be changing over to dual flex a lite Slim #420 electric fans Pullers if any of you guys have any suggestions or personla feedback on electric fans please feel free to share.

[bkg775]

A buddy also sent me this link, should be blackSlyv on Zilvia,
http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced...omparison.html

Good read

[Black R]

I'm using fal fans and they've been good to me so far.

[bkg775]

Originally Posted by Black R

I'm using fal fans and they've been good to me so far.

Thanks and that's awesome to hear, all the more reason for me to get these http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...0sx-89-98.html

Once I get my temps to stay under 190 at all times I'll be happy and I'll be able to do more than 3 laps drifting without getting to 230 degrees.

[uperformance]

I'm looking to get a swap harness into my 99s15 Silvia to 2jz, everywhere I have contacted is not capable of making me one without my chassis on hand.

Any insight would be great

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by bkg775

if any of you guys have any suggestions or personla feedback on electric fans please feel free to share.

Shrouds are a must, above, below and sides to channel the air towards the radiator.
Another area I saw a large improvement was with a oil cooler. With my dual 5 blade Altima fans, oil cooler, "N" Koyo radiator, ducting and AC on full blast I can keep my temps under 190 in 100+ degree heat. Doesn't matter driving situation, highway, stop and go. Handles it all.

Turn off my AC and I can drop it till the thermostat closes @160

[bkg775]

Originally Posted by uperformance

I'm looking to get a swap harness into my 99s15 Silvia to 2jz, everywhere I have contacted is not capable of making me one without my chassis on hand.

Any insight would be great

Contact Freed Engineering, seen plenty of there work and anything that's went in there to get a 2J in it; comes out with a running 2J. THey also have a 2J S15 that's a monster

[bkg775]

Originally Posted by Sky80

Shrouds are a must, above, below and sides to channel the air towards the radiator.
Another area I saw a large improvement was with a oil cooler. With my dual 5 blade Altima fans, oil cooler, "N" Koyo radiator, ducting and AC on full blast I can keep my temps under 190 in 100+ degree heat. Doesn't matter driving situation, highway, stop and go. Handles it all.

Turn off my AC and I can drop it till the thermostat closes @160

Thanks for the feedback and input, I'm ordering those FAL fans ASAP and doing more ducting, I can't have temps in the 200's and be comfortable with that. The more input I'm getting I'm learning ppl can make their temps below 200 haha.

[JohanM]

Question, Has anyone here run the AEM Infinity6 on a 2jzgte vvti?

[Black R]

^ where is your temperature probe located?

[bkg775]

Originally Posted by Black R

^ where is your temperature probe located?

It's in the factory temp. gauge location on the waterneck on the upper rad. hose. I'm going to try that prestone rad flush stuff too bc I noticed my Koyo radiator is rusty and to be fair I've had it since like 2008 so it's expected.

Thanks btw

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by bkg775

So hopefully once done I'll have some pics up for my new fan and panel setup but here goes: My car was running 215-220 temp wise on the highway with both fans on and no cooler than 215 at a stop. I've seen others say there 200s cruising around but I can't be comfortable with that haha.

Currently, I've got a perma-Cool 12.5" 3300 CFM pusher and 12" isis Puller, the perma cool pusher is decent but alot of air get wasted going across instead of thru the rad.

So my brothers made some simple cooling panels to go from the sides of the radiator to the headlight (Silvia Front) temps dropped dramatically to 180s to 190 max in traffic. Honestly I hoped it would work this well but wasn't sure.

So for those of you having cooling problems definately do ducting work bc it made a huge dfference.

I'll be changing over to dual flex a lite Slim #420 electric fans Pullers if any of you guys have any suggestions or personla feedback on electric fans please feel free to share.

Don't kill yourself trying to lower your temps too much.


FYI, the stock thermostat opens at 82C = 179.6F


Normal operating temp is between 180F ~ 200F.

[Krayziejoker91]

Originally Posted by Sky80

Shrouds are a must, above, below and sides to channel the air towards the radiator.
Another area I saw a large improvement was with a oil cooler. With my dual 5 blade Altima fans, oil cooler, "N" Koyo radiator, ducting and AC on full blast I can keep my temps under 190 in 100+ degree heat. Doesn't matter driving situation, highway, stop and go. Handles it all.

Turn off my AC and I can drop it till the thermostat closes @160

i must be doing something wrong here lol, not seeing how you're keeping your temp so low. I'm pretty much on the same set up:
stock condenser>ka koyo rad> altima fans(dual 5 blade). using toyota red(70%) mix with water(30%) with water wetter, mishimoto thermo. also nrg air diversion ducting. When a/c is off I'm ok with the temp (175-185) but when i have my a/c on I'm seeing temps at 208 in 90 degree florida heat, which I'm not too comfortable with 208 temp. maybe i should add an oil cooler in there too?

[NOLAGG]

Quick question ,I see ally of people using the s14 throttle cable. Do you have to modify the end that goes to the throttle body pulley?

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by Krayziejoker91

i must be doing something wrong here lol, not seeing how you're keeping your temp so low. I'm pretty much on the same set up:

stock condenser>ka koyo rad> altima fans(dual 5 blade). using toyota red(70%) mix with water(30%) with water wetter, mishimoto thermo. also nrg air diversion ducting. When a/c is off I'm ok with the temp (175-185) but when i have my a/c on I'm seeing temps at 208 in 90 degree florida heat, which I'm not too comfortable with 208 temp. maybe i should add an oil cooler in there too?

Well might not help a ton but I would drain that coolant and switch it waaaay around. 10% coolant can handle temps to -10*F and with the bottle of water wetter you will have plenty of anti corrosion left. I also assume but just have to say that other 90% water should be all distilled.

No doubt a well ducted oil cooler would help you a lot. But I would also check back on your ducting you have now, top, bottom and sides. Sides aren't as crucial but top and bottom for sure, all the way from front bumper to past the radiator.

[Black R]

Well with the tundra alternator something is wrong...

I wired it up and it runs my 240 pretty well, but won't charge the battery.

Wtf am I missing?

The wiring is a hack job by the previous owner though, so that's surely suspect.

Can anybody tell me which wires from the fuse box I should wire up to the tundra alternator?

The plug has four markings on the sticker:

IG
S
M
L



(In that order, clockwise from top left.)

The big stud on one side is I assume charging output to battery?





The wire colors are white, blue, black, red.

I believe that makes the pinouts like this:

IG = white
S = blue
M = black
L = red


Here's a diagram I posted previously:




From this, I deduced:


IG = goes to ignition switch
S = goes closest to positive battery terminal (fused)
M = B = goes to positive battery harness (fused). It is on the other side of the ignition switch connected to the positive side of the battery, but furthest from it.
L = lamp / battery dash light


So far, so good?


I found the 89-92 240sx wiring diagram in the repair manual that shows three wires on the oem s13 alternator:

W = goes to fusible link B
2nd W = merges with the other W and then goes to fusible link B
W/R = charge indicator bulb
B = ground to chassis


Here's the supraforums post again:

The supra 3 pin connector the pins are as follows:
1-L-terminal for charging light
2-IG-terminal for ignition power
3-S-terminal for Alternator sense

The Tundra 4 pin connector the pins are as follows:
1-S-terminal
2-IG-terminal
4-L-terminal

So pin 1 goes to 4, pin 2 goes to 2 and pin 3 goes to 1. The pin 3 is left vacant so use silicone sealant to fill it (toyota black fipg will work well also)

So on my pigtail...

IG = white wire = goes to ignition switch (fused) = turns the voltage regulator on - 12v switched
S = blue wire = goes closest to battery positive terminal (fused) OR run to ALT fusible link on s13 (it SENSES the battery) - 12v constant
M/B = black wire = MAIN alternator output terminal (connected to BATTERY)
L = red wire = charge indicator lamp in gauge cluster - Is this needed to complete the charging circuit on s13?
Ground = goes to chassis ground


Sounds about right?

[NOLAGG]

So every one used an s14-de throttle cable? Why is it not sitting in my bracket on the 2jzgte

[kalel540]

Originally Posted by NOLAGG

So every one used an s14-de throttle cable? Why is it not sitting in my bracket on the 2jzgte

The bracket needs be modified a bit.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[rswails]

Originally Posted by NOLAGG

So every one used an s14-de throttle cable? Why is it not sitting in my bracket on the 2jzgte

I'm assuming you knew about this right? The 2jz s13 cable bracket from cxracing.com

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Co de=BRK-THR-2JZ-S134&Category_Code=OTHS

It's ugly and too big IMO but it should work.

[NOLAGG]

Originally Posted by rswails

I'm assuming you knew about this right? The 2jz s13 cable bracket from cxracing.com

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Co de=BRK-THR-2JZ-S134&Category_Code=OTHS

It's ugly and too big IMO but it should work.

Some one said vvti only engines?

[supercompact]

Originally Posted by NOLAGG

Some one said vvti only engines?

You're correct. This only works for the VVTI version. I bought one without realizing that and the bolt holes are off.

[NOLAGG]

So what does one do?

[2js15]

If you're running an aftermarket ECU that allows drive by wire then that might be a possibility.

Out of interest, is anyone using the v160 / v161 with their stock clutch master cylinder that's mounted on the firewall?

Also, I have a Japanese vvti engine and would like to buy a set of new plugs to suit, is anyone able to recommend a place to buy them? I am wanting to build a new loom with nice mil spec wire ect. I tried Chasebays but they informed me that they weren't selling the plugs anymore.

Thanks

[240sxrb30]

Try Arron at driftmotion he has a lot of connectors and plugs.

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by NOLAGG

So what does one do?

Make one?

Look at that pic of the cxracing bracket, it's easy peasy. Go to hardware store and buy some metal plate, get a jig saw with a metal cutting blade and a drill and go to town. Don't have a welder? Get it all mocked up and take it to a local guy to weld

[laxrider]

Those of you with power steering fluid!

What kind are you using? Seems to me, Nissan calls for a different type of fluid then Toyota, don't want to burn up my pump or ruin the rack!

Thanks yall!

It's a 1jz with the chase bays power steering cooler kit