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Old 06-27-2010, 09:58 AM   #1
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Talking S13 Ka24de Upper Intake Manifold REMOVAL

Long story SHORT I need to swap out the coolant line that runs through the inside of the intake manifold. I JUST NEED THE UPPER PORTION OFF IM AM NOT REMOVING THE ENTIRE UNIT.

So far the fuel rail is now off the engine. All the bolts are off EXCEPT for 2. The 2 bolts are
1) lower one that can be seen throught the spaces between the 3 and 4 intake runner i think the IACV makes it hard to get a wobble extension in
2) the one just below the nut that holds the fuel rail.

BOTH BOLTS ARE NEAR THE FIRE WALL. If you can post a pic of what tool i need to get it out or a pic of the tool on the bolts so i can get a sense of how to get it out visually. ANY HELP WILL DO THANKS AGAIN
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:13 AM   #2
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anyone have insight ??
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:50 AM   #3
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okay you cant just take the top off w/o at least unbolting the bottom 2 hangers cause of the studs that hold the lower and the upper to the motor theres not enough room to clear the 2 studs on the block
and as to taking the manifold off all you need is a 12mm ratchet the best way is to just use a extension and go threw the runners on the top bolts and the bottom ones well you gotta reach your hand down in there and do it that way

and if you have your harness on the stock top location then might wannna unplug the harness and move it back out the way of the intake to make more room
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:25 PM   #4
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i agree , move some shit out of your way and slide your hand in there, its a pita for sure.

but when you do get it off, do yourself a favor and delete all that garbage under there. makes life 100 times easier if you ever have to get in there again or fix anything on that side. with all the emissions, vacuum lines removed, ect. I have enough room to put my harness under the intake manifold and im still able to get in there if i need too.
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:33 PM   #5
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Dude get one of those u joint type fittings to go on your extension between the extension and socket, makes life sooo much easier
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:32 PM   #6
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use a swivel joint to get the ones under.
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Old 06-27-2010, 04:46 PM   #7
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Referring to the fsm there's a total of 15 bolts and one screw that holds the upper intake pleneum on to the head and on the bottom intake pleneum. So far I have all the bolts out except the bolt near the fire wall and the one screw. Technically with all the bolts out I would be able to pull the intake runner off correct.
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Old 06-27-2010, 06:16 PM   #8
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No. The upper half of the intake has to slide off the cylinder head, two of the mounting points are studs threaded into the head. Same for the bottom half, the two outermost mounting points to the upper half are also threaded studs, so you have to lift the upper half off unless you extract the studs too. So what you need to do is pull those two studs, otherwise you'll never get it off the way you're trying to do it.
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Old 06-27-2010, 06:32 PM   #9
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s14fbs "remove hangers" if i remove those intake hangers will i have enough play to slide off the top to studs on the block? i have all the bolts off now.


This is the first hanger, and the 2nd one is near the alternator.(no pic of 2nd one)



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Old 06-27-2010, 06:40 PM   #10
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Pull the studs? Excuss my noobish ways but what do I need to use in order to take those studs out. I can see that the 2 outer mounting points to the head are studs what do you mean by slide off? I have read some other "writeups"of guys removing the intake hangers, if I remove those will that give me enough play to take off the runners
Use the "double nut" technique to take studs out. I recommend doing this to the ones that attach the IM to the cylinder head since the other ones are much harder to take out.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:23 PM   #11
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so if i extract the 2 studs will that enable me to lift up the intake runners? with you having to mess with the intake hangers?

got a pic of the "doube nut technique" NO HOMO i just wanna get this sh!t fixed.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:51 PM   #12
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so if i extract the 2 studs will that enable me to lift up the intake runners? with you having to mess with the intake hangers?

got a pic of the "doube nut technique" NO HOMO i just wanna get this sh!t fixed.

Yes (that is if you already disconnected the PCV hose and the other coolant hoses that go to the IM).

Get two nuts, tighten one nut on the stud, get the other one and tighten it on the nut that you just put in making sure that they line up together, get a long socket and put it over the two nuts, slowly turn it and the stud should come out.

Hope that was clear lol.
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:17 PM   #13
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i figured ill just take the complete unit top and bottom. so in addition to removing the intake hangers i also have to disconnect the egr from the egr itself and the exhaust manifold. FML all this for a hose that will probally break again.
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:29 PM   #14
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so far this is what i have done

1. removed the fuel rail.
2. removed the intake pipe
3. dizzy,tps,maf and all other connectors near the front have been disconnected
4. 8 bolts and 2 nuts have been removed ( connect the intake manifold to the head)5. 3 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the upper intake manifold to the bottom manifold
6. (im going to remove the intake hangers)
7. (egr pipe will be loosen up from the exhaust manifold)
8. .. please anything will help greatly appreciated ..

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Old 06-28-2010, 03:21 AM   #15
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damm good luck its a pain to do these lines always fail
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:11 AM   #16
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besides a crows foot is there another tool i can use to remove egr pipe from the egr??
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:44 PM   #17
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Unbolt the EGR valve from the mounting plate, don't try and take the pipe off the valve.

For the studs, the double nut technique works, or use a stud puller, and once they're out replace them with regular bolts so next time you don't have to fool with them, I used to do that on every engine I worked on just for ease of labor later.

Take the support brackets off and throw them in the scrap pile, you don't need them. Even after they're off though the plenum won't drop low enough unless you remove the oil filter and alternator.
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:19 PM   #18
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double nut technique lol I would have opted for stud extractor but if it works no need to spend money in it lol I'm noob when it comes to this technique do I just stack 2 nuts on there and tighted them both together, and when i replace it with a bolt similar in size by extracting them using this technique i dont have to redo threads? NO HOMO just never extracted studs like this befor project which 2 studs should I extract the ones on head or the ones on IM if i do the ones on the head i should be able to just remove the intake runners by itself without having to mess with the lower portion? correct me if im wrong lol.

seems to me that you legit ways of doing thing lol you helped me befor in the past thanks for the help again

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Old 06-29-2010, 10:57 PM   #19
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dude.

remove the outer two studs (the only two studs) that hold the manifold to the head.

remember removing the nuts on the outsides? all the rest that hold the manifold on are bolts.

tighten two nuts on the stud and put a socket on it, voila, stud removed.

replace stud with bolt similar in length and same thread pitch.

done.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:31 AM   #20
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i started to remove the bolt on the IM itself i broke the stud nearest to the front LOL FAIL so im getting a stud extractor

lol what i dont get it by doing this method is tightening the bolts down is that what removes the stud?
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:23 AM   #21
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No.

You have a threaded stud. There's a nut on it. Back the nut off just a bit. Now put another nut on top and tighten the shit out of it, holding the second lower nut in place. Now remove the lower nut just as you would with a wrench, the pressure of the two nuts wedged against each other and not being able to turn will force the stud to turn instead.
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:39 PM   #22
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Fml how much effort do I need to put in in order to get this stud out....wtf I'm using an extractor and it seems to not grab enough in order for the rest of the stud to come out or this stud hella hard to take out stud in question is the one on the intake manifold just above the throttle plate

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Old 06-30-2010, 05:21 PM   #23
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Wtf now the dam extractor broke FML when things seems simple there not
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:52 PM   #24
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having fun yet Ron?!?!?!?! "Silence, or I keeeeel You!!!!" lol
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:56 PM   #25
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seriously man?


mine came out effortlessly.


good luck bro.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:47 PM   #26
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as serious as a heart attack!!! lol ya i tried to extract the broken stud and BAM!! the extractor broke and i was like wtf.

other options in mind

weld a piece on the broken stud using it a leverage to remove the stud
completely drill out the broken stud and rethread it

anyother options???
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:06 PM   #27
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After you pull the manifold apart you'll have more room to grip the stud with whatever tool you decide to use. Trying to grip the tiny amount protruding through is a waste of time.

Seriously, just pull the entire thing off and do it right. You've tried to cut corners long enough and have gotten nowhere.
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Old 01-19-2011, 04:58 AM   #28
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no need to take out complete intake plenum....it can be done, just use any metric stud puller/installer you can find, not extractor because that shit wont work, ive tried....
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:51 PM   #29
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Hate to breathe life into an old post, but I am in the middle of removing my intake manifold (1995 Zenki, KA24DE) and it is a major PITA. I've looked everywhere for answers, but this post had the most relevant info for me. Just wanna know how your experience turned out Ron? Ive tried the double nut method, but I cant get a wrench in between the plenum and the valve cover area, so thats proven useless. I am attempting to pull the studs that bolt up the intake plenum to the head, and plan to replace these with bolts of the same thread pitch. Ive got the entire intake manifld loose and wiggling pretty freely, but can't get it out of the engine bay to save my life. I gave up after a lot of work today, but just wondering what the hell Im doing wrong. My engine bay is entirely too dirty, so I'm systematically going through and replacing gaskets, cleaning the block, freeing up wiring, etc until I'm happy. Please help me out, need this intake OUT!
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:25 AM   #30
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Hate to breathe life into an old post, but I am in the middle of removing my intake manifold (1995 Zenki, KA24DE) and it is a major PITA. I've looked everywhere for answers, but this post had the most relevant info for me. Just wanna know how your experience turned out Ron? Ive tried the double nut method, but I cant get a wrench in between the plenum and the valve cover area, so thats proven useless. I am attempting to pull the studs that bolt up the intake plenum to the head, and plan to replace these with bolts of the same thread pitch. Ive got the entire intake manifld loose and wiggling pretty freely, but can't get it out of the engine bay to save my life. I gave up after a lot of work today, but just wondering what the hell Im doing wrong. My engine bay is entirely too dirty, so I'm systematically going through and replacing gaskets, cleaning the block, freeing up wiring, etc until I'm happy. Please help me out, need this intake OUT!
It's actually not too hard with a long-extension and a wobble-head adapter.
What I did was (after getting all of the things out of the way) was to just pull out the 2 studs that I will show you right now. Once those studs where out, and the upper manifold portion was unbolted from the block it just slid out easily. Replace the studs with some m8x1.25 bolts to make it easier next time. The upper portion will probably be a little hard to pull out at first because of the gasket getting stuck, but just be patient. The biggest pain will be pulling out the PCV connection there, and the coolant hose that goes from the bottom of the manifold to the top. But it's perfectly doable.

Pull out these:

And
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