RB20 struggles to start and idle

[JrDarknes]

Car ran perfectly fine 6months ago. It sat because it needed a new starter.

Installed new starter, new plugs and new battery and now it struggles to even start let alone idle. For it to start I have to press on the gas and then to keep it running I have to keep feathering the throttle but even then it ends up dying.

FPR reads 32psi when priming

Video of it actually starting and running but I have to turn my cas fully clockwise for it to even run.
https://youtu.be/8vn0KL_ujXc

Could this be a timing issue? Or a bad tps? Just want my car to run =(


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[Yellow4g63]

Check to see if the ecu for codes. Could be a lot of stuff, I'd start with the ecu codes then work my way around the sensors, coolant temp, tps,CAS, coil pack, maf. Break out the volt meter.

[Standard]

If It ran good before the starter and that's all it needed, check the things you replaced. Put the old plugs back in, maybe the new ones aren't gapped correctly. Did you relocate the battery? Does it have fresh gasoline?

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by Standard

If It ran good before the starter and that's all it needed, check the things you replaced. Put the old plugs back in, maybe the new ones aren't gapped correctly. Did you relocate the battery? Does it have fresh gasoline?

Added new gasoline, check the plugs and they're gapped properly. Never relocated battery. So stumped. =(

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

Check to see if the ecu for codes. Could be a lot of stuff, I'd start with the ecu codes then work my way around the sensors, coolant temp, tps,CAS, coil pack, maf. Break out the volt meter.

Checked ecu I get code 55


I know the cas and coilpacks are fine. Looked up how to check the tps but it said the car needs to be running and you unplug it.

If it helps any, when I turn my cas fully clockwise (retard timing) it runs but barely and is pretty rough and smells like it's running lean. Like white smoke comes out a bit then dies and this is with me having to fully press on the gas. Could my fuel pump be bad? I hear it prime well but it only gets 32-33psi when it should get like 38.

So stumped.
Bought a multimeter will check maf but my safc gave correct readings for it before I sold it.

Edit: now I can't even get it to start, tries to but makes a pause than cranks again.



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[Yellow4g63]

unplug the maf and try to start it. Stock ecu will go into a limp mode and let it start but not rev over 2k rpm

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

unplug the maf and try to start it. Stock ecu will go into a limp mode and let it start but not rev over 2k rpm

Yea, see I unplugged the maf and it still dosent want to start up right away =/.

I checked a few things yesterday
Igniter is good
Maf should be good, but I bought a new connector from wiring specialties and will check again (it did not go into limp mode)
Cas is good
Getting 32 PSI of gas
Grounds are good (tested each one with my multimeter having the positive to a 12 volt source and testing the wire with the negative lead)
Coilpacks are good tested resistance
Brand new Battery and Starter, so damn lost.


Maybe a dumb question I am asking but

I did do some searching though. I was reading about the AAC and coolant temp sensor. Could not having any coolant in the car and it being real cold cause it to not want to start? It was about 18 degrees when I was working on it yesterday.

Originally Posted by Nico Forums

the ECU coolant temp sensor 100% has an effect on your car not starting... i had a bad coolant temp sensor on my car and what would happen is the car would start but then just shut off.. whats happening is your ecu thinks the car is running SOOO cold or SOOO hot i think it defaults to cold tho but anyways when my car started the ecu was litterally flooding out the spark plugs with fuel trying to compensate for the "false temp" the sensor was sending it, so what i had to do was clean of the spark plugs wait a while for everything to dry re install them and the same thing happened i started the car it started right up but then shut off after idling badly... soo i replaced the coolant temp sensor off of a hunch and cleaned the spark plugs once more and car started first time with no problems since! hope this helps man!

[JrDarknes]

Bump still need help.

I replaced ignitor, cas, fuel pump and coil packs, still same results.

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[Yellow4g63]

What kind of fuel pressure are you getting? Whats your setup that you need a AFC? are you running bigger injectors than stock? What harness do you have? Where did the car sit before you started it again? Did you pull the fuel rail and spark plugs and remove the cas and turn it with the key on? Did you see the each coil ark and each injector fire?

[KAT-PWR]

Clamp fpr return and see what pressure you get

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Clamp fpr return and see what pressure you get

Ok I will try this.

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

What kind of fuel pressure are you getting? Whats your setup that you need a AFC? are you running bigger injectors than stock? What harness do you have? Where did the car sit before you started it again? Did you pull the fuel rail and spark plugs and remove the cas and turn it with the key on? Did you see the each coil ark and each injector fire?

I use the SAFC only to read RPMS that is about it.

- After new fuel pump I get 37 psi when I prime it then it slowly goes down. Last time I remebered it would prime it would go striaght to 0 right after it primed. Not slwoly go down.
-Injectors are stock
-Harness is from wiring specialties
-It Sat outside
-I will try to pull the fuel rail and plugs and attempt that with the CAS, I have not attempted that yet

Appreciate the help guys, feel like a huge noob right now =|

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Clamp fpr return and see what pressure you get

Clamped it just now and pressure shoots up to like a 100 then quickly dies down to 30-40 then very slowly goes to 0.


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[JrDarknes]

Gonna try fuel injectors next

[JrDarknes]

On summer Break so I got more time to work on this thing.

I changed fuel injectors and it fires up ( i guess all my injectors went bad from it sitting for so long), and I can some what hold idle as long as I keep my pedal on the gas but it is running lean and a bit rough. Struggles to get to 2000 rpm and has no problem dying when I left off the gas pedal.

ECU finally throws a code 12 which means bad maf.

Shouldn't the car idle fine but just not rev past 2500 if the maf is bad?

Or am I wrong and even if the maf is bad and unplugged the car will still run like crap?

Just trying to see if it is worth getting a new MAF or not because this MAF is not too old.

[JrDarknes]

Anyone else who stumbles on this issue. The problem was the timing belt. Make sure you check your mechanical timing. Car runs perfectly.