Slow crank? 25 year old ignition system or wire in a relay.

[R3b]

As tittle says, I need some second opinions on this no crank/slow crank issue.

Starter isn't the issue but it's amperage related. Starter spins and engages off the car and on the car with battery pack with load perfect. Add in the starter signal wire off the stock system car doesn't want to start. Either hear it click or it spins stupid slow which doesn't have enough momentum to build compression to start.

Is there something in the stock system aka ignition that needs replacing or should I just forget it and do a relay thats big enough for a starters amps. Wire it up like you do for the fuel pump so it get proper voltage/amp.

Two things Im unsure of is what type of relay I need to run on a sytem like a starter, im assuming a 25amp one for fans is a no go and the other thing is could it be a week link in my stock system? Battery in the trunk is a new optima, grounds are clean, no voltage drop to front of the car, 0 resistance on grounds and have a grounding kit on my intake.

The fact I can unplug the starter wire, jump my 12v battery wire to that and it cranks normal speed and car will start says something is up from the ignition key system to the starter.

I'll see if the key barrel isnt loose because I need to fix the contacts on my headlight switch because after replacing a new popup side it went out again and wiring all looks fine.

[derass]

Originally Posted by R3b

Add in the starter signal wire off the stock system car doesn't want to start. Either hear it click or it spins stupid slow which doesn't have enough momentum to build compression to start.

The fact I can unplug the starter wire, jump my 12v battery wire to that and it cranks normal speed and car will start says something is up from the ignition key system to the starter.

are you talking about the little wire, or the big wire going to the starter?

i think something's wrong with your battery relocate, or grounds. the starter doesn't need a relay. it's already wired directly to the battery.

is the car a sohc with a dohc, or sr? if so, someone would have had to do some starter wiring behind the glovebox. the F2 or F11 connector. I forget the actual code. everyone just calls it the dash plug. problem might be there. that connection is between the key and starter

[R3b]

Originally Posted by derass

are you talking about the little wire, or the big wire going to the starter?

Little wire

Originally Posted by derass

i think something's wrong with your battery relocate, or grounds. the starter doesn't need a relay. it's already wired directly to the battery.

Battery relocation is fine, 0 resistance to grounds in the trunk or connections on the engine bay side, have a grounding kit from WS.

The starter doesnt need a relay from factory but as per fsm the line of power goes from ignition key barrel to either the interlock switch on auto chassis or to the clutch/interlock relay on the passside fender then once either is switched because its more of a "safety" thing to stop you starting in gear then the starter wire off the starter gets 12v off the key turning

What I am saying since the starter itself is fine and this is an issue in that system outside of the battery because if I jump the starter from the battery wire in the engine bay to the little starter wire plug it cranks over perfect.

SO there is something from the key to the relays then from there to the starter wire that is the issue or should I add a relay to the system just as you do for the fuel pump rewire because ya know 25 year old wires vs one wire directly off the source.

Originally Posted by derass

is the car a sohc with a dohc, or sr? if so, someone would have had to do some starter wiring behind the glovebox. the F2 or F11 connector. I forget the actual code. everyone just calls it the dash plug. problem might be there. that connection is between the key and starter

Car afaik is an auto chassis with DOHC, it has the sterotypical wire bridge for the interlock relay aka "starter" relay from doing the 5 speed swap before I got the car. Im going to check to see if that plug with the wire bridge isnt getting resistance.

[Kingtal0n]

The little wire that goes to the starter comes off the underhood fuse box in an S14

What usually happens during a relocation is, you put the batt in the trunk but there is the issue of the 2 little battery terminal wires that go to the fuse box on an S14. How you take care of those 2 wire determines how alot of things work. Like the starter. and headlights.

If you have trouble getting current into the fuse box wires, starter can present as weak. in my relocation I put the fuse box nearer to the trunk (almost in the trunk) then I ran some thick wire intended for a starter in some random truck/vans seem to have the good lookin wires, in the junkyard (get big, beefy starter wire, a good looking OEM piece) I ran the two into that one, through the trunk to the fuse box nearby. Then a nice thick wire from there to the starter. Do the extending is fine, just use thicker wire to extend it than it used to be.

[jedi03]

where does your power go to? when I did relocation I would put a distribution block and power the starter and fuse box(or alternator don't remember atm) directly

[cole d]

Hey check this thread out. It details the problem and the fix. See post #52 for the fix.http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=620069
I have not tried it yet because I'm unsure about what size guage wire should be used.