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Old 09-30-2013, 01:06 PM   #15031
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$200 too much for front z32 brake calipers? Some guy is trying to sell them and don't want to get ripped off.
Can anyone help?
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:08 PM   #15032
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Can anyone help?
Nope thats good.

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Old 09-30-2013, 01:15 PM   #15033
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I did a f fender wire tuck and now my headlights are stuck in different positions and one on n one off. My blinkers don't work either. All my wiring checks out. I have no idea what the fuck is going on. Any ideas??
Clean the headlight switch if you haven't already, it causes the headlights to fuck up. If that doesn't help and it only happened after you did something wiring related then obviously it has to do with wiring. Check your fuses too but you probably pulled a connection apart or sliced a wire or something. Go over it again, there's not really anything else it could be.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:33 PM   #15034
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does anyone know if the s13 sr coolant bleeder screw is the same as a kade or kae bleeder screw
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #15035
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I've gotten home only to find the bleeder screw was different - NO they are not necessarily the same. Depends on the manufacturer.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:56 PM   #15036
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with a tuned ecu for larger injectors, could you theoretically use larger injectors than what the ecu is tuned for and turn down the fuel pressure via adjustable fpr to get the engine to run correctly?
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:21 PM   #15037
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I have a quick question, I need a chassis harness (the imder dash, fuse box, and headlight portion) for my s13 and I found one for sale and I wanna get it before someone else does, but does any one know if it matters if the car the harness is comming from a dual or single cam? My s13 was originally had a dual cam, would it matter if the harness came from a single cam? Are they any different is what I'm asking I guess?
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:05 PM   #15038
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Originally Posted by xs420240sx View Post
with a tuned ecu for larger injectors, could you theoretically use larger injectors than what the ecu is tuned for and turn down the fuel pressure via adjustable fpr to get the engine to run correctly?
You'd have to define correctly... U could get it close to how if ran before it was but def not perfect. If ur gonna do that just temporarily, like to get it back on the road I'd say ya but get it retuned for your new (bigger) injectors ASAP
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:27 AM   #15039
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I thought no matter what injectors you have, the fuel pressure stays at 43.5psi with NO vacuum? ~35ppsi with vac.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:36 AM   #15040
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I thought no matter what injectors you have, the fuel pressure stays at 43.5psi with NO vacuum? ~35ppsi with vac.
I'm pretty sure you are correct.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:33 AM   #15041
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Clean the headlight switch if you haven't already, it causes the headlights to fuck up. If that doesn't help and it only happened after you did something wiring related then obviously it has to do with wiring. Check your fuses too but you probably pulled a connection apart or sliced a wire or something. Go over it again, there's not really anything else it could be.
Thanks bro. A loose wire was stuck in between the headlight and the manual cylinder to open them. The top was spinning 1/4 spins back n fourth and was hot as fuck (don't know the tech name for it) I unplugged everything and started over and now the work fine. Idk why I missed that the first time around
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:23 PM   #15042
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My subframe bushings are pretty shot (from the feel of the ride, hopping wheel/hard shuddering on normal clutch engaugement, general clunking and rattling from the rear end when there should be none, etc) but I'm not really in a position where I can drop the subframe off, or use a press.

Am I properly understanding subframe collars, as something that I could slip above the mounting points without entirely removing the subframe, just leave the driveshaft on and take out the mounting bolts to drop it enough to slip the collar on?

Any suggestions for products, or techniques?

This is an s13.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:16 PM   #15043
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Am I properly understanding subframe collars, as something that I could slip above the mounting points without entirely removing the subframe, just leave the driveshaft on and take out the mounting bolts to drop it enough to slip the collar on?
Yes.

Loosen the 4 bolts as far as you can, put the tops between bushing and frame rail, bottom between the bushing and the washer.
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:13 PM   #15044
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Yes.

Loosen the 4 bolts as far as you can, put the tops between bushing and frame rail, bottom between the bushing and the washer.
So it's no biggie?

Any suggestion on brand/value/good website to buy? Wanting quality, but not at an obscene price.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:01 PM   #15045
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My subframe bushings are pretty shot (from the feel of the ride, hopping wheel/hard shuddering on normal clutch engaugement, general clunking and rattling from the rear end when there should be none, etc) but I'm not really in a position where I can drop the subframe off, or use a press.

Am I properly understanding subframe collars, as something that I could slip above the mounting points without entirely removing the subframe, just leave the driveshaft on and take out the mounting bolts to drop it enough to slip the collar on?

Any suggestions for products, or techniques?

This is an s13.
don't waste your time with those. They only delay the inevitable. Change them and be done with it.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:08 PM   #15046
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Are the JDM and USDM Kouki front/side bumper retainers the same? I know the bumper support themselves are different, but I cannot find anything about the retainers. Sites like The Nismo Shop don't specify USDM or JDM on their Kouki bumper retainers - so I assume they are the same.

Also are the pieces that connect the bumper to the chassis the same for USDM and JDM? The pieces I am talking about are the white ones in this picture:


Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:49 PM   #15047
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don't waste your time with those. They only delay the inevitable. Change them and be done with it.
I thought they basically stick a ring of solid bushing in between the subframe and the mounts, and cut the bushing out of the equation?

I just don't currently have the means to do the whole job.

STANCE Aluminum Subframe Collar Set For Nissan 240SX - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC

It does say if your rubber is in good condition.... but why? Doesn't it entirely bridge the bushing, and effectively make it solid?

As it is, it gets in the way of everyday driving, like pulling out of a stoplight. There's a specific way the throttle and clutch have to interact, or I look like I don't know how to drive standard. So it is a probelm that needs addressing, but I don't have the space, time, or equipment to get bushings out of something as huge and heavy as a subframe.

*edit* and if those don't eleminate the bushing movement, are there any that do? It seems like it should be possible to have a collar that effectively makes it totally solid. I've also seen people talk about poly inserts that are not total replacements, and seen aluminium "inserts" that don't look to be as thick as the full bushing, but like bulkier collars without the slip-on gap. I'm up for any combination of things that will let me leave the current bushings in, but get the subframe stiffer than stock.

*edit- fuck the normal knockoff brands, how about these: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s...ars-nissan-s13

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Old 10-01-2013, 06:45 PM   #15048
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Anyone know if the valve covers for KA24DEs differ between s13s and s14s? Or are they a straight interchange
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:54 PM   #15049
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Anyone know if the valve covers for KA24DEs differ between s13s and s14s? Or are they a straight interchange
They differ.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:58 PM   #15050
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They differ.
sheeeeit, thanks mang.
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:16 AM   #15051
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Has anyone tried to get their car insured and when they check up on your car and look at the odometer, but you have a JDM cluster. Do they care?
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:37 AM   #15052
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^Depends if the emissions testing center you go to notices. If it has less miles (assuming they don't notice km on the cluster) than what is on your current title they'll know something is up and give you a mark on your new title indicating the odometer is incorrect (usually box C or something along those lines..don't remember exactly)
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:40 AM   #15053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maces13 View Post
Thanks bro. A loose wire was stuck in between the headlight and the manual cylinder to open them. The top was spinning 1/4 spins back n fourth and was hot as fuck (don't know the tech name for it) I unplugged everything and started over and now the work fine. Idk why I missed that the first time around
The technical name is called a 'short to ground' that allows voltage to freely move through the rest of the circuit, unchecked. This situation normally is found due to it's overheating and causing fuses to pop, but occasionally it will get hot as fuck(this IS the correct technical term ) and start a small electrical fire at the source.

You may want to replace those wires that got heated up. That excessive heat condition more than likely caused insulation breakdown and will find a way to short itself later on, or the wire will break inside the insulation, causing a real bitch of a ghost in the machine to find, and prior knowledge of, oh yeah, that was the wire that got hot will not be available in your brain until you have spent a few days and hours trying to figure out what is wrong
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:51 AM   #15054
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anybody use rims with big negative offset to drift with? or is this bad? Because I have a widebody and hate keeping 7 or 8 inch wides on all the time to drift because it's ugly. Wondering if i could get some 8 wides with negative offset to look good drifting?
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:28 AM   #15055
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I have ave 3 s14 USDM ecus. I really just need to know which if any is 97-98 automatic. I can't look at the part number on the last two at the moment but i don't think either part numbers match up with the Jim wolf ecu list either so that's why I'm asking.

1)3c - a18b92g00 I know this is 95 manual
2)j6 ?
3)wm ?
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:22 AM   #15056
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^Depends if the emissions testing center you go to notices. If it has less miles (assuming they don't notice km on the cluster) than what is on your current title they'll know something is up and give you a mark on your new title indicating the odometer is incorrect (usually box C or something along those lines..don't remember exactly)
might more or less depend on where you live, in NYS at least, anything 10 years or older is exempt from needing an odometer reading on the title (they probably assume if the salt hasn't done your car in yet, it wont be long lol!)
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:24 AM   #15057
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Need to switch out the lights in s14 cluster, figure mine as well do LEDs. Few threads have mixed results, s14 cluster take 194's? x3? thanks
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:47 AM   #15058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron View Post
I thought they basically stick a ring of solid bushing in between the subframe and the mounts, and cut the bushing out of the equation?

I just don't currently have the means to do the whole job.

STANCE Aluminum Subframe Collar Set For Nissan 240SX - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC

It does say if your rubber is in good condition.... but why? Doesn't it entirely bridge the bushing, and effectively make it solid?

As it is, it gets in the way of everyday driving, like pulling out of a stoplight. There's a specific way the throttle and clutch have to interact, or I look like I don't know how to drive standard. So it is a probelm that needs addressing, but I don't have the space, time, or equipment to get bushings out of something as huge and heavy as a subframe.

*edit* and if those don't eleminate the bushing movement, are there any that do? It seems like it should be possible to have a collar that effectively makes it totally solid. I've also seen people talk about poly inserts that are not total replacements, and seen aluminium "inserts" that don't look to be as thick as the full bushing, but like bulkier collars without the slip-on gap. I'm up for any combination of things that will let me leave the current bushings in, but get the subframe stiffer than stock.

*edit- fuck the normal knockoff brands, how about these: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s...ars-nissan-s13
Basically they just stop the clunk. You still get the movement cause your bushings are still rubber. You'll get a month of time with these before the noise get's worse and you have to change the bushings. The only correct way to fix the subframe bushings is with new bushings. The collars just get rid of the gap so it doesn't make noise.
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:49 AM   #15059
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anybody use rims with big negative offset to drift with? or is this bad? Because I have a widebody and hate keeping 7 or 8 inch wides on all the time to drift because it's ugly. Wondering if i could get some 8 wides with negative offset to look good drifting?
It makes no difference.
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:30 AM   #15060
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It makes no difference.
That's what I fiugred but I cant even seem to find any 8 wides with negative offset.
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