KA24DE Intake Routing

[StoopidLoose88]

This may be a dumb question but I've searched and didn't find anything on what I was looking for. I'm in the process of tubbing the front end and doing a wire tuck on my KA. I'm getting ready to fabricate a new intake tube from the manifold to the factory MAF and then to an open filter. My question is is it alright to run this off the intake and directly behind the pass headlight, or is there a reason it has been routed across the engine bay and should I run the tubing all the way over there? I would prefer it to be on the pass side considering it would be much cleaner imo, but the KA already makes so little power I don't want to make it worse lol. Thanks for any info on the matter guys!

[LockOn!]

Hmmm let me google that for you












Yup, dats an intake alright yessireee



Common FL get it together

[StoopidLoose88]

Originally Posted by LockOn!

Hmmm let me google that for you












Yup, dats an intake alright yessireee



Common FL get it together

Ok Mr. Illiterate, let me lay this out for you a second time. My question is not can I route it behind the pass headlight, I could route it to the trunk if I wanted, I have the ability. My question was is there a reason or effect having it routed to the drivers side provides?

[thegr8one013]

changing the length of the intake changes your hp gain in certain rpms. generally shorter tube helps out in the lower area and longer tube is opposite. but its only so long before theres no gains anywhere at all. (ive tested this myself on the dyno)

also i said generally because theres other factors like where its drawing the air from. if you have a short ram your going to be absorbing hot engine bay air so you could just lose power all around.

[StoopidLoose88]

Originally Posted by thegr8one013

changing the length of the intake changes your hp gain in certain rpms. generally shorter tube helps out in the lower area and longer tube is opposite. but its only so long before theres no gains anywhere at all. (ive tested this myself on the dyno)

also i said generally because theres other factors like where its drawing the air from. if you have a short ram your going to be absorbing hot engine bay air so you could just lose power all around.

Thank you, this is more what I was looking for! As far as heat, I think it should be around the same if not less considering it will no longer be on the exhaust side of the bay. I knew that runner length on the intake manifold effected hp and torque in RPM ranges but I had never really heard anything on length previous to throttle body so I didn't know if that also effected it as well. I also wasn't sure if having the MAF closer to the throttle body would effect any readings or anything, I know the MAF can cause a ton of problems in these cars lol.

[thegr8one013]

the nice thing of the factory intake pipe is its plastic so the air inside doesnt absorb as much heat as an aluminum pipe that you would fab up.

also the maf being closer to the throttle would effect it but if you have atleast about 1foot of length between the maf and throttle body the effect would be small and probably unnoticeable

[StoopidLoose88]

Originally Posted by thegr8one013

the nice thing of the factory intake pipe is its plastic so the air inside doesnt absorb as much heat as an aluminum pipe that you would fab up.

also the maf being closer to the throttle would effect it but if you have atleast about 1foot of length between the maf and throttle body the effect would be small and probably unnoticeable

I honestly hadn't thought of that but I have no way to cast plastic and I can weld aluminum, so I'm going to go that route and hope all goes well. I'll try to pay attention to it and see if I notice the tubing getting hot and if it does I'll see what I can do. Thanks for your input and help!

[KAT-PWR]

This project requires ZERO welding. Get a U bend, cut the proper angle, done.

[thegr8one013]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

This project requires ZERO welding. Get a U bend, cut the proper angle, done.

that depends on where you route the pipe. and if you choose to have a bunch of couplers. you could route it down into the passenger fender well to grab cool air and if you want to make it one long pipe its going to need more than 1 bend which will require pipes being welded to gether.

If he choose to create the short ram like in the photos that the other person posted then you are right. but in my opinion that short ram isnt efficient

[thegr8one013]

Originally Posted by StoopidLoose88

I honestly hadn't thought of that but I have no way to cast plastic and I can weld aluminum, so I'm going to go that route and hope all goes well. I'll try to pay attention to it and see if I notice the tubing getting hot and if it does I'll see what I can do. Thanks for your input and help!

yea of course go with the aluminum piping, its what most people use in the motorsport industry, except some really high people that use carbon fiber (which doesnt absorb as much heat like aluminum does)

what people do with the aluminum piping is wrap it with heat wrap or that gold foil (im not sure the proper name of it)

[StoopidLoose88]

Yeah I agree you could probably do this project without doing any welding, but I don't consider that the right way to do it. I'm going to route it as tight to the corner as I can, and I am welding the tubing to a flange the mates to the MAF. The only coupler will be from throttle body to the piping.


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[StoopidLoose88]

Originally Posted by thegr8one013

yea of course go with the aluminum piping, its what most people use in the motorsport industry, except some really high people that use carbon fiber (which doesnt absorb as much heat like aluminum does)

what people do with the aluminum piping is wrap it with heat wrap or that gold foil (im not sure the proper name of it)

Oh ok, the heat reflection tape may actually look pretty nice too! I may go that route!


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[LockOn!]

If this is a KA with only bolt ons you will see absolutely no discernible difference in in power from intake length, routing whatever. A fully build NA KA with bottom end and headwork maybe, but for your purposes just go with whatever pipe fits. No need to over complicate.

[Cperkins87]

I know this is old but here is how to make a custom ram air passenger side short ram intake that does not run over the radiator and get heat soaked
The stock intake gets heat soaked by radiator and sucks air in on the hotter side of engine bay. By relocating the maf and intake to the passenger side you can gain a good bit of Hp and torque if done right. U must extend the maf sensor wireing by a harness or making your own. I made my own and at first I had issues because the wires were not equal length and we're not soildered. Once I made them equal and soildered them really good and heat shrink tuned them it ran perfect. My buddy also tried it and he used to thin of wire at first and went to better wire and it was perfect also. .
I've done this in both 240sx and Nissan Frontier.
Basicly youl def gain power and your Iat temps are lower. If done right your maf won't give you any issues. You have two options. Buy a maf aka mass air flow sensor extension harness or make one.
Take equal length electrical wire you get at parts store the same thickness of what's in there now. Be sure each wire is equal length!
Cut cleanly each wire and get a soildering iron and soilder the wires on each wire to lengthen the maf wires. You have to do this because the stock maf sensor won't reach over to the other side of the engine bay. Basicly I took an eBay short ram intake tube off a Honda and cut it to length. Just play around with diff intake angles you can buy them cheap under 20$ or try pep boys or Autozone. I used a 20$ Autozone cone washable filter.
I ran it behind the headlight and I actually noticed much much much lower intake air temps ESP because the air was flowing into the intake from behind the headlight. I then made an air dam and ran some flexible tubing to it from under the car so it became a ram air intake.

The reason they did the intake from
Stock the way they did was for emissions and power restriction. Also a good Hp trick is use the nickel trick. Black off the metal tube coming off the exhaust that goes into the intake. A nickle fits perfect. Just cut the metal tube in the middle and slide the nut off and put the nickle inside it and screw back on. That alone helps a lot. All it did was recirculate the hot exhaust gas back into intake. No need for that

[KAT-PWR]

That nonsensical rambling was not even worth bumping this thread.

[StoopidLoose88]

Originally Posted by Cperkins87

I know this is old but here is how to make a custom ram air passenger side short ram intake that does not run over the radiator and get heat soaked

The stock intake gets heat soaked by radiator and sucks air in on the hotter side of engine bay. By relocating the maf and intake to the passenger side you can gain a good bit of Hp and torque if done right. U must extend the maf sensor wireing by a harness or making your own. I made my own and at first I had issues because the wires were not equal length and we're not soildered. Once I made them equal and soildered them really good and heat shrink tuned them it ran perfect. My buddy also tried it and he used to thin of wire at first and went to better wire and it was perfect also. .

I've done this in both 240sx and Nissan Frontier.

Basicly youl def gain power and your Iat temps are lower. If done right your maf won't give you any issues. You have two options. Buy a maf aka mass air flow sensor extension harness or make one.

Take equal length electrical wire you get at parts store the same thickness of what's in there now. Be sure each wire is equal length!

Cut cleanly each wire and get a soildering iron and soilder the wires on each wire to lengthen the maf wires. You have to do this because the stock maf sensor won't reach over to the other side of the engine bay. Basicly I took an eBay short ram intake tube off a Honda and cut it to length. Just play around with diff intake angles you can buy them cheap under 20$ or try pep boys or Autozone. I used a 20$ Autozone cone washable filter.

I ran it behind the headlight and I actually noticed much much much lower intake air temps ESP because the air was flowing into the intake from behind the headlight. I then made an air dam and ran some flexible tubing to it from under the car so it became a ram air intake.



The reason they did the intake from

Stock the way they did was for emissions and power restriction. Also a good Hp trick is use the nickel trick. Black off the metal tube coming off the exhaust that goes into the intake. A nickle fits perfect. Just cut the metal tube in the middle and slide the nut off and put the nickle inside it and screw back on. That alone helps a lot. All it did was recirculate the hot exhaust gas back into intake. No need for that

I thought this was a good explanation. That sounds like what I basically did, wish I had better pictures but here it is


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