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Old 05-21-2010, 03:34 PM   #1621
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Is it possible to pull the key out without pressing that pin? It's kinda annoying. Thanks for helping again.
is that seriously annoying? wow. just sell your car if you think that is annoying.
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:50 PM   #1622
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ok i have no power inside the car; stereo, auto seatbelts, gauge cluster, head lamp..

my assumption is that im getting no power to the fuse box, but then the little clock inside the car turns on. what do you guys think?
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:11 PM   #1623
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I am wondering why you have to use all the 93 DOHC S13 KA stuff when swapping a 95 obd1 DOHC S14 KA engine into a 89-90 chassis? Looking for specifics not just, it's easier. Thanks
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:52 PM   #1624
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Quote:
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I am wondering why you have to use all the 93 DOHC S13 KA stuff when swapping a 95 obd1 DOHC S14 KA engine into a 89-90 chassis? Looking for specifics not just, it's easier. Thanks
Just a guess but the S14 harness is different then the S13 harness.

So yes, it IS easier as you are having to too screw with two completely different EMS and wiring systems.
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:34 PM   #1625
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Hey guys I need a gm intake air temp sensor anyone know which vehicles use the threaded one?
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:17 AM   #1626
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Is this an oil sandwich plate or a remote oil filter relocation mount?
theres a very big threaded hole on it's side...took pics of it on both sides


Thanks in advance to all helpers!
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:43 AM   #1627
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This is an oil sandwhich block. I wasn't aware that Nismo made an oil filter block for our cars. I'm pretty sure that block would be for a G35 or 370Z. It looks like it's missing three pieces. You need the oil filter adapter piece that slides through the center, a cap for the open port, and a rubber o-ring to sit inside the circular slot in the last picture. If you get it, make sure it fits the M20 size which is what the majority of the SR20s use (My SR uses a M19, but I purchased the Tomei N2 Adapter instead.), as well as KAs.
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #1628
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When you run an oil filter relocation kit and/or oil cooler do you have to put more oil in than normal to compensate for more volume?
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:05 PM   #1629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpertsnowcarver View Post
This is an oil sandwhich block. I wasn't aware that Nismo made an oil filter block for our cars. I'm pretty sure that block would be for a G35 or 370Z. It looks like it's missing three pieces. You need the oil filter adapter piece that slides through the center, a cap for the open port, and a rubber o-ring to sit inside the circular slot in the last picture. If you get it, make sure it fits the M20 size which is what the majority of the SR20s use (My SR uses a M19, but I purchased the Tomei N2 Adapter instead.), as well as KAs.
i don't know if it's for sr20's or VQ's - the central hole looks to be rather small for an M20 (about 0.8 inch), also its fairly large for a normal sandwich plate.
So just to make sure i got it right - it has nothing to do with oil filter relocation then?
thx
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:17 PM   #1630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ki_JDM_ds View Post
When you run an oil filter relocation kit and/or oil cooler do you have to put more oil in than normal to compensate for more volume?
Yes......but for how much more oil depends on length of the line you ran to relocate & size of oil cooler. (usually about another quart of oil)
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:38 PM   #1631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ki_JDM_ds View Post
When you run an oil filter relocation kit and/or oil cooler do you have to put more oil in than normal to compensate for more volume?
I use a Tomei N2 block, about 5 ft of -10AN hose, and a Setrab 616 (Series 6, 16 row) oil cooler. I pour 4 quarts in my engine. It only took about an additional pint (half of a quart) to fill the oil filter, hoses, and oil cooler as much as possible.

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i don't know if it's for sr20's or VQ's - the central hole looks to be rather small for an M20 (about 0.8 inch), also its fairly large for a normal sandwich plate.
So just to make sure i got it right - it has nothing to do with oil filter relocation then?
thx
Correct. That block does not relocate the oil filter. It only provides you an option to run an oil cooler.
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:33 PM   #1632
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quick question..okay i did the 300zx brake swap..and now my car doesnt have pressure..my setup is 30mm z brakes up front..and stock rear calipers..with all four ss line...when the car isnt moving i have pretty good pressures brake pedal has minimum travel..BUT when i start to drive the car or the car is moving and i need to brake..i TOTALLY have zero pressure the only way i will get if i keep on pumping the brake pedal..also i am using the 17/16 BMC..from a z fyi...YES!!! i bleeded my car like 10 times...fluid comes out solid....is there something else i did wrong..need help asap..thanks
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:12 PM   #1633
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You should use the BMC that was meant for those brakes. 17/16" Z32 BMC.
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:54 PM   #1634
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yes i do have those...anything?? or ideas why my cars not getting pressure??
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:07 PM   #1635
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s14 zenki lights

im looking for s14 zenki headlights that are glass and are 100 clear, i think there aftermarket but im not sure.

Thanks
Sam
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:42 PM   #1636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nizmo_max View Post
yes i do have those...anything?? or ideas why my cars not getting pressure??
Ah! Okay then here's what you do. You need to adjust your brake booster. You need to remove the BMC to do it. That's what I did when I installed my brake system. You'll need a friend to assist you.

Have your friend press and hold the brake as far and firmly as he can. He'll need to do this for at least 3 mins, depending on how long you take.

You will need, if I recall correctly, an 8mm wrench and pliers. You'll know what tools you need to adjust the brake booster accordingly. With your BMC removed, and your friend firmly pressing the pedal, a small shaft will poke out of the brake booster. That is what you adjust. Unscrew it to increase braking force into the BMC; and vice versa.
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Old 05-22-2010, 06:10 PM   #1637
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Quote:
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im looking for s14 zenki headlights that are glass and are 100 clear, i think there aftermarket but im not sure.

Thanks
Sam
I thought those are the OEM German ones IIRC
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:36 AM   #1638
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What settings as in soft or hard to run coilovers when drifting? Do you run the rears softer than hard or harder?
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:19 AM   #1639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krewlkid View Post
im looking for s14 zenki headlights that are glass and are 100 clear, i think there aftermarket but im not sure.

Thanks
Sam

Enjuku racing sells the german ones but IIRC they are not 100% clear.

Anyone use a threaded gm intake air temp sensor? I need to know an application or a part number.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:36 AM   #1640
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Question...so one of the nuts that goes on the top of the one of the 3 studs, on the camber plate, is stuck. This is for an s13, cusco comp-s coils.

It spins in place, and no matter how many times i turn it, it neither moves up nor down. Any ideas as to why this is happening?
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:38 AM   #1641
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I need help picking out what size of rod bearings I need. I want cosworth, but I'm going to get my crank polished. So would I need a size zero? Size one is standard.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:21 PM   #1642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Bowering View Post
Enjuku racing sells the german ones but IIRC they are not 100% clear.

Anyone use a threaded gm intake air temp sensor? I need to know an application or a part number.
DIYAutoTune.com

A quick google showed 85-90 F and Y bodies came with them.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:28 PM   #1643
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Just a quick question.. I've tried searching, but it hasn't led me specifically to my answer.

So, for an auto to 5speed KA24DE swap, would I still be able to use the automatic engine? If so, what problems would it cause, and would I only be able to shift up to fourth gear?
I've read the faqs and write ups, but I didn't read anything about swapping in an engine originally from a manual.

Thanks a bunch.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:37 PM   #1644
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Quote:
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What settings as in soft or hard to run coilovers when drifting? Do you run the rears softer than hard or harder?
it all depends on the power you're making ect., but just for a basic setup run medium in the front and say you have 15 way adjustable coilovers, run 7 then fine tune. the rear should be set harder, 15 if you want to and adjust from there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotofu View Post
Question...so one of the nuts that goes on the top of the one of the 3 studs, on the camber plate, is stuck. This is for an s13, cusco comp-s coils.

It spins in place, and no matter how many times i turn it, it neither moves up nor down. Any ideas as to why this is happening?
sounds like it is stripped out possibly?
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeeban View Post
Just a quick question.. I've tried searching, but it hasn't led me specifically to my answer.

So, for an auto to 5speed KA24DE swap, would I still be able to use the automatic engine? If so, what problems would it cause, and would I only be able to shift up to fourth gear?
I've read the faqs and write ups, but I didn't read anything about swapping in an engine originally from a manual.

Thanks a bunch.
yes, you can use the same engine, it's the same engine, just an automatic, not manual.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:39 PM   #1645
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yes, you can use the same engine, it's the same engine, just an automatic, not manual.
Oh okay awesome. That cleared up all my confusion. Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:11 PM   #1646
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Originally Posted by badicalradical View Post
DIYAutoTune.com

A quick google showed 85-90 F and Y bodies came with them.
I searched google for a while trying to find an application and just found people talking about them on the forums. Never thought to check them out my friend just bought an ecu from them about a week ago.
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Old 05-23-2010, 04:44 PM   #1647
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What direction do you turn the distributor to advance the timing? ie clockwise or counter-clockwise
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Old 05-23-2010, 04:53 PM   #1648
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What direction do you turn the distributor to advance the timing? ie clockwise or counter-clockwise
Advanced Timing... : KA24E / KA24DE Forum

simple answer, clockwise.
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:06 PM   #1649
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sounds like it is stripped out possibly?
Yea that was a guess I had...is there any trick to removing it other than chopping it off?
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:20 PM   #1650
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Just incase anyone ever needs to know. The part number for the gm intake air temp sensor with open element is GM#25036751,AC Delco 213-190, standard#AX1 pigtail#S-556
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