SXDevelopments 180SX (SXD180)

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by Riq

This build is amazing, I really want get titanium bolts for my build in the future. Is there any chance you can recover the pics in the first 16 pages? I would love to see those as well. Keep up the great build.

Hey mate, thanks for the kind words.

All the photos are uploaded to photo bucket they used to charge me $30 a year to have unlimited sharing. I just checked recently and they now want $400 for the same thing. I really cant justify spending this on the build thread so in the near future it probably wont work sorry man.

[arlok]

Originally Posted by CaBS

I can't remember off the top of my head maybe probolt. I'll find the packets and take another pic of them for you.

Thanks bro


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[brndck]

Originally Posted by CaBS

Hey mate, thanks for the kind words.

All the photos are uploaded to photo bucket they used to charge me $30 a year to have unlimited sharing. I just checked recently and they now want $400 for the same thing. I really cant justify spending this on the build thread so in the near future it probably wont work sorry man.

just fyi there is a google chrome fix. doesn't work 100% of the time so you might have to refresh the page
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p...17#post6219317

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by brndck

just fyi there is a google chrome fix. doesn't work 100% of the time so you might have to refresh the page
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p...17#post6219317

Cool

So shitty I cant see how you can justify going from $40 odd a year to fucking $399! I have like 3000 pictures aswell so its a nightmare to relocate everything

[scottie]

Originally Posted by CaBS

Cool

So shitty I cant see how you can justify going from $40 odd a year to fucking $399! I have like 3000 pictures aswell so its a nightmare to relocate everything

Damn seriously?! I think I am only using 1G on their server. How do I see what they are going to charge me next year? Cuz mine currently has been $25 annually. Ouch.

[dalecl9]

Very impressed with all the custom fabrication throughout this build!

[CaBS]

Getting the rear end pieces painted up. I decided not to go with the carbon RPS13 center garnish as its extra cost and with the carbon hatch on top of it and white panel below it looked odd. So the center section is going white to match the body.

Had to pull the revers lights out. I'd never really paid much attention to how these went together before.


nice and easy to pop them out.


Skirts and bar dropped off skirts had already been high filled when I'd gone back.


They already looked much better all in the same colour imo


Still in the booth.


Was actually stressful getting these back without anything coming together



Yew! Left the bar for now as it pokes out so much its harder to work on the car and very easy to scratch it. I'm happy with how its come out though!


More soon!

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by arlok

Thanks bro


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely was pro bolt bud!

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by dalecl9

Very impressed with all the custom fabrication throughout this build!

Thanks man, it's a slippery slope once you start going custom!

[Juucso]

I give you thumbs up for not going with the carbon center piece. I do not really like the cut where the keyhole is. If the whole panel would be carbon, not just a addonpiece, then I'd be all about it. Amazing work as usual mate, looks really good! This kind of build inspire me to go on with mine. Curious to see what you'll come up in the future!

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by Juucso

I give you thumbs up for not going with the carbon center piece. I do not really like the cut where the keyhole is. If the whole panel would be carbon, not just a addonpiece, then I'd be all about it. Amazing work as usual mate, looks really good! This kind of build inspire me to go on with mine. Curious to see what you'll come up in the future!

Yeh true I had noticed that and don't like it either. Cheers been hard at it!

[CaBS]

Folded up this heat shield from aluminum sheet.


Help keep the radiant heat from the runners which run close to the rocker cover over the hot side of the engine bay.


This will be covered in heat reflectant tape later on.


I'd lost my mazwork engine crane tabs so made up some out of spare steel I had lying around from a bench I'd made previously.




Some bodge gasless mig ftw. Doesnt look pretty but gets the job done.


Front tab.






Now with crane action made getting the box off much easier.


Ratchet straps are always handy


Now to get some long as bolts and a shit tonne of washers to avoid having to remove the clutch again to go on the engine stand.


Trial fit of the front bar so I can make a template for a rad support/air box.


Also had to trim the guards to fit the bar on with the new cut outs at the rear. These are in so I can fit the splitter with diffuser faces in it on the car more easily.


After dropping the bar off for some prep/paint a friend with much more experience with glass work assessed how I'd glassed off these side vents.


I'd done them much to thick (beginners angst on strength) and needed to have them molded into the face to avoid cracking further down the line.


So work began to cut out all the rear vents no longer being used.





This ended up saving heaps more weight off the bar than I anticipated.


Air hacksaw goodness before flap disk to get even closer and start removing meat from the cover itself.


After returning from an overseas trip I came back to find this.


Mate concered had put it LOTS of hours to this bar to get it to this point.


Had I of released how many hours had been going into it I would of freaked out.


Both sides are super smooth and have next to no filler in them its all just fiberglass and very thin and light.


The shape has changed slightly aswell. I cant wait to see this painted.


Didnt do a before and after weight but it feels significantly lighter to pickup.


Stoked!


Its going to look very different to how these origin bars usually look.


Still some more glass touches to be fixed up on the back edges and behind. I'm going to have to lift my game to match what Andrews done for me on the rest of the bar.


Trail fit of parkers to make sure they fit ok and work out the mounting.


The recess is way to deep so I'm going to cut some slots and mount them close to flush.


Will have to muck around to make sure they mount up centered. Have since realised I need to get parker/indicators so tracking some down which are similar.


More soon!

[onehundredoctane]

Man. . . fiber glass work isn't a joke, if you have the time and patience for this then more power to you! Great work!

[Juucso]

You amaze me. I'm becoming a fanboy of your car.

[Will.]

Good to see this thread is alive again, been waiting for an update for ages!

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by onehundredoctane

Man. . . fiber glass work isn't a joke, if you have the time and patience for this then more power to you! Great work!

I cant claim much of this myself but I'm having a go!

Originally Posted by Juucso

You amaze me. I'm becoming a fanboy of your car.

Thanks very much hope you enjoy reading my garble :P

Originally Posted by Will.

Good to see this thread is alive again, been waiting for an update for ages!

Yes I got a tad slack there with updates sorry!

[CaBS]

Decided it might be a good idea to chuck in a billet girdle to help tie stuff together.


While the motor was out and everything came off to fit the new dry sump pan up it made sense to do it at the same time.


The oil pickup also no longer being required had to come out.


Silicon o-ring popped in ready to go on. Still needed to use a dab of gasket goo at the front of this where the o-ring joins together.


Girdle over layed


Something I'd not thought of was my new billet alternator mount would no longer work with the new setup. Because it mounts on the sump pan to keep the alternator nice and low. The issue being this part will be gone cause the new sump pan bolts straight onto the girdle/block. So I'll have to engineer or source something else. Even considering returning to a factory style setup.


Had to use a pulling tool to remove the ATI balancer.


Sump pan fully removed and a good view of the factory cast alloy girdle. As you can see it doesn't join to the block around the outside like the new billet one. The mazworx modified VE oil pickup removed here also.


Oil pump cover removed so we could take the gear out of the factory oil pump.


Factory girdle off. Sussed out I have the stock main caps with the threads tapped into them for easy removal. I've since heard these can have issues with breaking above 450rwkw. I dont think I'll be running those sort of power levels and the new girdle should help a bit.


Nipping up the new billet girdle before it was torqued up in order with a torque wrench.


Bought some zinc cap screws to bolt the dry sump pan on.


Everything lined up/bolted up well.


I'm only going to be using the front/rear ports on the sump as its a three stage pump and this helps keep the plumbing as simple as possible.


Happy with how neat it all turned out.


Had I known I'd end up going dry sump I would have sat the whole motor lower in the chassis. The new pan ends up shortening the height quite a lot. This would have made the box easier to get in/out.


More soon!!

[CaBS]

Any of you guys seen aftermarket alternator brackets on the market? Still keeping it on the intake side of the block.

Cheers,

Martin.

[rbs14kouki]

^ Im Looking for one too !

[rbs14kouki]

What billet girdle companie did you go with ? Hypertune , plazaman are the 2 i know of

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

What billet girdle companie did you go with ? Hypertune , plazaman are the 2 i know of

I actually bought it off facebook of all places, pretty sure its JHH.

[tricky_ab]

I was rather excited to see this near the top of the page! This is quite the amazing build project...

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by tricky_ab

I was rather excited to see this near the top of the page! This is quite the amazing build project...

Hopefully its quite the amazing car to drive very soon!

[CaBS]

Some last minute heat reflective wrapping before the guys arrived to help me lift the car back over the engine! Its pretty bloody tricky to get this stuff on without wrinkles!


Popped the cover off to have a look. Remembered after the fact I should have installed the mazworx cam angle sensor, shouldn't be to bad to do it in the car though.


After we'd manhandled the car over the top of the engine and bolted the sub frame into place.





Wrapped the aluminum heat shield I'd folded up aswell. Pretty happy with how its come up should be functional and keep things looking neat.


Looks rather empty in here with just the motor on its own.


Managed to get the ross bracket to fit on without drilling out and of the holes. Had to do all the bolts half turn at a time to get them all fitting into the recesses.


Glad I didnt have to drill it out. Still a bit disappointing it doesn't bolt up perfectly as you'd expect.


Bolted manifold and turbo on most of the engine bay will be dummy assembled so I can go and get all the lines made up.


I dont want to do final assembly till afterwards cause theres a very high chance that stuff will need to come back apart for getting the lines made.


Cores back in so I can begin all the work on the air ducting.


More updates to come. Wishing a happy new your to all you guys who can be bothered to read my shit!
Still feeling pretty cut that photo bucket has taken a giant shit on my thread this year I've put a lot of effort into for the last few years.

2018 needs to be the year this project gets driven in anger!!

More soon!

[Riq]

Will you be mounting the oil sump tank in the trunk or cabin area? What size tank are you going with? So far this project has been Broadfield level of meticulous. Simply amazing!

[CaBS]

Had an issue where the bushes for the ikeya front castor rods would not fit into the nismo power brace.


A quick turn on a friends lathe.


Wasting down the now razor sharp inside and outside lips.


Ended up being about 1.2mm off and now fitted no probs.


I bought this drive mandrel for the drysump pump. It has a big extra spacer on it which this lip on the back locates into. This is so you can run it inside the power steering pulley.


Given I'll be running electric power steering I didn't want to run the ati power steering pulley. I want to run it straight off my crank sensor chopper wheel.


Like so, this means the pump pulley and drive belt can sit much closer to the crank. Much easier to work on than if they're sitting far forward.


I wanted to make up a spacer to locate the mandrel into the chopper wheel. So its 100% centered to the balancer.


One of the Hypertune guys was kind enough to make me up this spacer. My wife was not impressed when she saw what I was boiling on the stove. lol


Mandrel chilling out at -18c.


Not sure how much my hot cold routine worked cause the temp transfers so damn quickly through aluminum but it seated on nice and tightly regardless.


Which then seated into the chopper wheel with some help walking the bolts in.


Forever one.


This saved me a good 10mm - 15mm shorter distance outwards.


Put some extra tack welds on the clutch pedal. These are known for failing spotwelds after years of abuse! Before


Before



After, the gasless mig birdpoo ground down abit and then chucked some black spray paint on to stop the surface rust.



More soon!

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by Riq

Will you be mounting the oil sump tank in the trunk or cabin area? What size tank are you going with? So far this project has been Broadfield level of meticulous. Simply amazing!

Thanks bud

On the previous page you can see where I'm going to put it. Going in an enclosure behind the main hoop of the cage. Its a 9.5ltrs from memory, Petersons tank.

[Riq]

Originally Posted by CaBS

Thanks bud

On the previous page you can see where I'm going to put it. Going in an enclosure behind the main hoop of the cage. Its a 9.5ltrs from memory, Petersons tank.

lol not sure how I missed that, good stuff

[CaBS]

Putting the rest of the suspension together one of the things on the list was pushing my new solid rosejoint bushes in. This one went wrong, the clearance wasnt quite enough and the socket I had on it slipped in the press and munted the bearing housing. Fortunately it cleaned up ok on the lathe and went in.


I stuck a flap disk tool in and cleared out the holes in the knuckly of crud. This also helped the bearings fit in properly with far less force.


Much better. Can see here some damage from when a shop air hack sawed out my original factory bushes and went a touch to far into the knuckle.


Cleaned up well.


Back onto the press with a "special tool"


Bearings all pressed in and unfucked if thats even a thing.


I realised after I'd taken the photo I''d gone full retard and bolted up the bearing to the wrong side for the picture. oops


Made a low profile coverplate for my Z32 box. Helps get it higher in the chassis and flatten out the motor.


Pleased with how it fits up!


Factory plate in comparison requires alot more clearance.


More soon!

[ka-titties]

i'm dying laughing about you putting the wheel bearing on backwards. i've done it before too when my mind wanders as i'm assembling things.