Rust/Pitting help. - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

sbc · 01-11-2009, 01:48 PM

The windshield was replaced before I owned the vehicle and whoever did it did a real shit job which of course led to rust which brings me to my present situation...

You cant really see but the passenger side was relatively easy to fix since the rust wasn't too bad.

These pictures better illustrate my problem.

What I need to know is if I can just clean up the pits with a wire wheel or similar abrasives since the metal is too thin to use sanding disks/grinders.

If I'm leaving the pits should i use some type of body filler?
Are there rust inhibiting fillers or should I just use a thick coat of rust primer?

Any sort of advice would be great guys.
Thanks.

JRas · 01-11-2009, 01:52 PM

It doesn't look too bad, get some kind of rust eater to remove all the rust in the pitting put some POR-15 over that and you should be good.

silpena · 01-11-2009, 01:59 PM

wire brush it or use brittle disk disk. They come in different grits and color. Most of them break away quick so you dont burn through. If you want to fill in any pits use a metal renforced body filler aka metal2metal. Just like using lead body filler but without the danger. I would use a metal conditioner before you do any body work on it then use an expoxy primer( you can buy in a spray areosol can at a body shop store) then you can start your body work.

Get the corrosion back to oem standards then paint it, put new windsheid with good aheasion/sealing and walk away. A good test to find out if you got a good seal is to spray the car around the windshield with high pressure/low/medium pressure water and run a leak detector from the inside or blow high pressure air around the outside edges if the seals and have someone use a stetoscope in the in side and listen for air passing through. All of this mimick real life driving. Hope that helps you.

silpena · 01-11-2009, 02:02 PM

oh btw the metal2metal is rust proof, corrosion proof, stronger than fiber glass, great for high impact areas, geat for seams, and metal shaving and stress cracks. The stuff is pricey though.

MadScientist · 01-11-2009, 02:03 PM

I can't remember the name of the product I used... Its comes in a small bottle and is Pink.

My Battery Tray was rusted to hell... so I cut it out but the lower part had rused too where the brackets were... I used a wire wheel to remove the paint and some rust and used the Pink Rust eater for the pits.... works awsome... sprayed a primer coat over it and done.

-Drew

ThunderbaySr20 · 01-11-2009, 02:14 PM

definatley use metal2metal, just make sure you take it down to oem size so you dont crack the new windsheild that your putting in... and then use por15 to paint over it

sbc · 01-11-2009, 02:20 PM

Ok thanks a ton. Would the following steps be taken in this order?

1. Rust eater
2. Metal2Metal filler
3. Por15
4. New windshield

Is that fine?
Thanks a lot guys.

ByeByeSti · 01-11-2009, 02:29 PM

im also dealing with this issue on my s14 except mines a bit worse

i used that pink stuff also called rust remover or disolver or something.. worked alright, wire wheeled and clean up filled it. sanded it out. and im just going seal it all afterr

silpena · 01-11-2009, 04:09 PM

go with these steps
1. wire wheel
2. metal conditioner( rust converter or zince oxide corrosion protection)
3. primer
4.paint
5. new windshield

energ · 01-11-2009, 04:59 PM

^^ i would do that as well (what silpena recommended) i wouldnt use POR-15 on anything you can see
and if you started using the POR-15 there where would you stop? its thicker than paint by a lot and you would have a line to blend..

01-11-2009, 01:48 PM	#1
sbc Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Canada Posts: 75 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Rust/Pitting help. The windshield was replaced before I owned the vehicle and whoever did it did a real shit job which of course led to rust which brings me to my present situation... You cant really see but the passenger side was relatively easy to fix since the rust wasn't too bad. These pictures better illustrate my problem. What I need to know is if I can just clean up the pits with a wire wheel or similar abrasives since the metal is too thin to use sanding disks/grinders. If I'm leaving the pits should i use some type of body filler? Are there rust inhibiting fillers or should I just use a thick coat of rust primer? Any sort of advice would be great guys. Thanks.

01-11-2009, 01:52 PM	#2
JRas Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Arizona Age: 35 Posts: 1,503 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	It doesn't look too bad, get some kind of rust eater to remove all the rust in the pitting put some POR-15 over that and you should be good. __________________

01-11-2009, 01:59 PM	#3
silpena Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: LIVE OAK,CA Age: 37 Posts: 834 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	wire brush it or use brittle disk disk. They come in different grits and color. Most of them break away quick so you dont burn through. If you want to fill in any pits use a metal renforced body filler aka metal2metal. Just like using lead body filler but without the danger. I would use a metal conditioner before you do any body work on it then use an expoxy primer( you can buy in a spray areosol can at a body shop store) then you can start your body work. Get the corrosion back to oem standards then paint it, put new windsheid with good aheasion/sealing and walk away. A good test to find out if you got a good seal is to spray the car around the windshield with high pressure/low/medium pressure water and run a leak detector from the inside or blow high pressure air around the outside edges if the seals and have someone use a stetoscope in the in side and listen for air passing through. All of this mimick real life driving. Hope that helps you.

01-11-2009, 02:02 PM	#4
silpena Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: LIVE OAK,CA Age: 37 Posts: 834 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	oh btw the metal2metal is rust proof, corrosion proof, stronger than fiber glass, great for high impact areas, geat for seams, and metal shaving and stress cracks. The stuff is pricey though.

01-11-2009, 02:03 PM	#5
MadScientist Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: NOLA Age: 47 Posts: 1,970 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	I can't remember the name of the product I used... Its comes in a small bottle and is Pink. My Battery Tray was rusted to hell... so I cut it out but the lower part had rused too where the brackets were... I used a wire wheel to remove the paint and some rust and used the Pink Rust eater for the pits.... works awsome... sprayed a primer coat over it and done. -Drew

01-11-2009, 02:14 PM	#6
ThunderbaySr20 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Ontario Age: 38 Posts: 30 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	definatley use metal2metal, just make sure you take it down to oem size so you dont crack the new windsheild that your putting in... and then use por15 to paint over it

01-11-2009, 02:20 PM	#7
sbc Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Canada Posts: 75 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Ok thanks a ton. Would the following steps be taken in this order? 1. Rust eater 2. Metal2Metal filler 3. Por15 4. New windshield Is that fine? Thanks a lot guys.

01-11-2009, 02:29 PM	#8
ByeByeSti Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: New Hampshire Age: 34 Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	im also dealing with this issue on my s14 except mines a bit worse i used that pink stuff also called rust remover or disolver or something.. worked alright, wire wheeled and clean up filled it. sanded it out. and im just going seal it all afterr

01-11-2009, 04:09 PM	#9
silpena Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: LIVE OAK,CA Age: 37 Posts: 834 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	go with these steps 1. wire wheel 2. metal conditioner( rust converter or zince oxide corrosion protection) 3. primer 4.paint 5. new windshield

01-11-2009, 04:59 PM	#10
energ Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Chicago burbs Age: 35 Posts: 211 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	^^ i would do that as well (what silpena recommended) i wouldnt use POR-15 on anything you can see and if you started using the POR-15 there where would you stop? its thicker than paint by a lot and you would have a line to blend..