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Old 01-05-2014, 02:57 PM   #121
dil han
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Can anyone help me with the Dakota tach adapter? Please tell me how you have it wired and switches adjusted. I have 95 s14 with 2003 vq35 and no matter how I wire it the tach at most just bounces around a little between 0-200 rpms. Light is flashing on adapter which means its getting signal "in".

Any help is much appreciated!!!!!!!
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:35 PM   #122
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Where are you getting the source signal from ?
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:48 AM   #123
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Quote:
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Where are you getting the source signal from ?
I've tried three sources and the tach still doesn't work but the light on the adapter will flash green meaning its getting signal. #1 coil white/blue power, #1 coil signal and #1 injector yellow/red I think. If my colors are off here that's because I don't remember as I gave up about a week ago. I know while I was under the dash I had all correct info when trying to wire it up.

Can anyone who has wired it up give me pins, colors and info?

Thanks guys
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:52 AM   #124
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Btw this is the second VQ35 swap I've done and both times I converted the harness' myself and made them plug and play. The first was in my race car and I made a custom gauge cluster with autometer gauges and autometer tach adapter. It works off of the white/blue coil power wire. Well it did work for about 20 running hours and the last event I went to it took a shit. From what I read the autometer tachs take a shit and break. Looks like i'll be going Haltech and getting a racepac plug and play cluster....
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:22 AM   #125
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PnP is definitely the way to go with the harness conversion. that's what i did too and it worked great.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:45 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dil han View Post
Can anyone help me with the Dakota tach adapter? Please tell me how you have it wired and switches adjusted. I have 95 s14 with 2003 vq35 and no matter how I wire it the tach at most just bounces around a little between 0-200 rpms. Light is flashing on adapter which means its getting signal "in".
Im in the exact same page. My VQ has been running but still no Tach. I have the Dakota Digital ski-8, but that alone doesn't make the stock tach work. The needle bounces around 0-200rpm (The coil signal is to weak 0.1-0.4v)

An MSD adapter is needed to amplify that low volt in 12 volt signal but which box???
I recently picked up an MSD 8913 DIS TACH DRIVER for distributor less ignition systems.

Any thoughts or advise
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:02 AM   #127
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Get a tach that works on CAN. done
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:16 PM   #128
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Get a tach that works on CAN. done
Although you are right…what we are trying to do is get our stock tach to work.
I might have actually found what I am looking for!!!
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd825.htm
Plugs into the OBD2 port. Reads RPM signal from the ECU. Converts it to useable 4cyl gauge signal for the stock cluster.

Now to order it and actually verify it actually works.
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:55 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gosai_240sx View Post
Although you are right…what we are trying to do is get our stock tach to work.
I might have actually found what I am looking for!!!
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd825.htm
Plugs into the OBD2 port. Reads RPM signal from the ECU. Converts it to useable 4cyl gauge signal for the stock cluster.

Now to order it and actually verify it actually works.
$100? not bad. all you need to do is hardwire it directly to your cluster harness, right?
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:14 PM   #130
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$100? not bad. all you need to do is hardwire it directly to your cluster harness, right?
Yea! Which is only one wire at the F3 plug or right behind the cluster itself. It says it works with CAN obd2 systems so I'm pretty convinced. Ordering this week.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:58 AM   #131
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Im looking to make my VQ build CA legal(BAR, smog, etc..). Apparently, you need to use OEM exhaust headers? not 100% on this but I know someone that BAR'd his LS and they said he had to use OEM headers to pass.

Wondering what issues and solutions are there to use OEM headers(DE or HR) in an S13.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:36 PM   #132
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the oem header will have interference with the steering column.
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:50 AM   #133
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Can Renault Vel Satis VQ35 be used for the swap? Is it any different from 350Z engine?
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:23 PM   #134
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i've been hearing some people having problems with mckinney mounts..and some even saying ebay mounts worked out better for them. anyone else have experience/opinions?
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:55 PM   #135
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I've got a buddy that got the ebay mounts and he says quality is shit.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:24 AM   #136
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www.schassisvq.com or the s chassis vq facebook page. That is where you want to go for more info. It's an active community.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:19 AM   #137
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looks like they stop making the stock vq ecu/tb wiring into s13s now. I forgot wither it was cb or ws that made them.
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:25 PM   #138
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looks like they stop making the stock vq ecu/tb wiring into s13s now. I forgot wither it was cb or ws that made them.
Found this crusiing the reddits:

Quote:
My VQ swap harness allows you use an unmodified VQ engine harness. The engine harness doesn’t even need to be shipped to me.
Splicing into s-chassis wiring doesn’t provide enough current to safely and reliably power a VQ engine. This eliminates that problem by supplying its own main power source and functions 100% as it does in a Z/G chassis.
Each circuit is individually relayed and/or fused the same as a Z/G chassis. This means you can track down and replace a blown fuse and be able to see which circuit was blown instead of them being bundled all on 1 fuse.
This swap harness conversation uses the bare minimum butt connectors/soldering. Almost ever wire is instead fitted with brand new crimped connections using Genuine Delphi branded terminals and seals using quality brand name crumpets. For added plugs, genuine Deutsch connectors are used. Deutsch connectors are the standard in the motorsports world cause of they are known for their quality.
100% functional OBD2 port that allows for GST readers, tuning, and any diagnostic tools applicable. -completely customizable to a users specification. Extra circuits and relays can be used for whatever you need. We work with you to get exactly what you need and expect.
Uses ATM fuses and Micro Relays. Both are common and cheap parts that can be found in any GM vehicle in the past 30 years.
NATS removal still necessary though an Osiris Uprev tune. I have connections for that too.
Racecar version - Harness is completely isolated from any factory wiring. It’s pretty universal and can work in any chassis. - A main power switch/cutoff is required to toggle a 6ga wire (not included) that acts as your ignition switch. It essentially would work the same as Key on/key off. I can provide assistance with helping you set this up and provided power wires at cost. - Starter is required to be activated via toggle switch. We provide the spade terminal connections for hookup to activate the ground or hot signaled relay. - Fuel pump can be wired separately, though switch/relay in fuse box (output/signal leads provided, you finish wiring), or you can allow the VQ ECU to control. (Signal wire lead provided for your own relay/power to fuel pump) - Added circuits are also available including fans power or switched, fused, or relayed circuits

PNP version - Allows you to plug your VQ engine harness without splicing or modifying any of your factory wiring. - Function completely like factory. You turn ignition key on, it powers the engine. You turn the key to start, it starts the engine. - Everything plugs into existing plugs in the engine bay and under dash. No splicing or modifications required as long as provided the appropriate connectors - Requires donor original engine harness for pigtails to make plug and play. - Requires a fused and relayed 70+amp main power wire to fuse box If you purchase a PNP box, you must also purchase this power wire in which I provide for $90. - Added circuits are also available depending on chassis including fans power or switched, fused, or relayed circuits - Swap does not allow for any gauges in a factory cluster to be functional without added aftermarket modules for speedo/tach. Fuel gauge remains functional. - Options for G35 clusters available.

Each swap requires you supply the F1, F2, F3, F102, that plugs into the engine harness, but is found on the chassis side of the donor car. They are specific to chassis AND engine. (Z and G don’t cross. DE, HR, VHR don’t cross). Cores possible for purchase depending on availability. G35/DE are more accessible than others. OBD2 plugs are also required but available for $10 replacements

Prices start at - Racecar swap box -$360 - PNP swap box - $420 - PNP power supply (required if PNP swap box is used) - $90 - Racecar power supply (6ga cable with ring terminals) - $30 - Battery relocation kit - $110 - Core for Required 4 pigtails g35 vq35de harness $30 - Core for Required 4 pigtails z33, HR, or VHR harness $75. (Availability limited) - OBD2 plug - $10 - Shipping flatrate - $20 (buyer is responsible for shipping pigtails to me if necessary)

Due to every harness being custom specific to each person, these are built to order with generally a 1 week build time depending on on-hand inventory.

I’m working on getting a product website launched for this. Most of the units I’ve sold so far were on a VQ-S-chassis specific group on Facebook.

You can find me on Instagram @Guilty_garage Facebook page isn’t as active but give it a follow anyways @guilty garage.

Join the Facebook group “vq swap #schassisvq” for support and there are many people there that can vouch for my support and service.
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:54 PM   #139
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Found this crusiing the reddits:
That actually is me.

https://imgur.com/a/68W1RFt

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Old 06-12-2018, 05:09 PM   #140
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Wondering what issues and solutions are there to use OEM headers(DE or HR) in an S13.
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the oem header will have interference with the steering column.
My VQ35HR swapped S13 has the factory HR headers..
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Old 12-14-2018, 03:37 AM   #141
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Hoping someone can help me out. I have a VQ swapped s13 and I'm having cooling issues. The coolant is not flowing into the radiator and the thermostat is not opening. Car has brand new koyo rad, brand new mishi low temp thermostat and brand new water pump. Is there something wrong with my hose routing? Could it be related to having no heater core? Instead of going in and out of the heater core I have one hose connecting those areas. Everything else is oem hose routing.
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Old 12-14-2018, 03:49 PM   #142
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Maybe the thermostat just isn't opening. Take it out, boil it in a pot of water, and see if it opens.
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Old 12-14-2018, 05:04 PM   #143
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Thermostat is brand new and tested to be working. Does it make sense that water wouldnt make it to the back of the t stat with no heater core?
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:34 AM   #144
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is the engine overheating due to this? or is it not getting to temp?

if the hoses that are on the back side of the t-stat housing are not hooked up, the t-stat will take a long time to open.
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:10 AM   #145
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The engine is overheating but radiator stays cold the entire time
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:10 AM   #146
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The engine is overheating but radiator stays cold the entire time
do you have the hose that goes to this location, coming from the big pipe on the passenger side?

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Old 12-18-2018, 11:46 AM   #147
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Yea that is hooked up like oem, goes to the oil cooler down to the filter then from the top of the filter to the pipe on the passenger side
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Old 12-18-2018, 01:40 PM   #148
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What you are describing is air in the system. Almost all VQ overheating issues are due to this. They are notoriously difficult to bleed.

The VQ in a Z/G (I believe) has a bleeder valve T'd in the hose before entering the heater core. Most people do away with that when they swap which makes them harder to bleed.

What I did on mine is T in a bleeder valve in that smaller hose that runs from the T-stat to the larger upper return hose on the passenger side. I put it all the way up top, i.e.-where air wants to escape from. You don't necessarily need that, but it helps relieve air sooner.

What you really should get if you don't have it is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-8700...BE2GQEJFZNFMFR


And get the front of the car nicely elevated. And, be patient. You may have to cycle the engine a couple of times before the t-stat sees the temperature required to open.
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Old 12-18-2018, 01:50 PM   #149
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My VQ35HR swap has a bleeder valve/petcock plumbed in that rear coolant line, its the highest point in the coolant system and sits right behind the intake manifold, mounted to it. Definitely needs one.
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Old 12-18-2018, 04:06 PM   #150
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I have a bleeder valve mounted already and have been trying to bleed with a no spill funnel with the front elevated. Wouldnt the coolant in the rad be getting warm without the therm opening? The coolant running thru the motor is hot but usually in the rad it's not even Luke warm... would removing the therm help? This is a track only car hence not having a heater core. Thanks for the input
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