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Old 04-07-2008, 05:16 AM   #1
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Engine Build costs?

Iv been trying to price out a rebuild for my SR and was wondering if anyone could give me a ballpark idea on what the costs are for machine shop and assembly work?

So far the parts for OEM Seals/Gaskets/Waterpump with ARP Head Studs and Eagle Rods/CP Pistons is around 1600, I figure closer to 2000 once I throw in an Oil pump and other odds and ends.

Im trying to get an idea of what kind of cash Im looking at for Machine shop/ Assembly cost to get all this put together if I decide to do all the legwork myself instead of letting a local shop handel it all.
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:26 AM   #2
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sh*t man I'd rather swap in an RB20 in, I calculated 1800-2000 for complete swap, then sell your sr stuff, and get yourself a nice Fmic/bov.
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:33 AM   #3
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I'll destroy any RB20 with my SR on .5 bar.

Why the Eagle rods and pistons? S15 rods and pistons are more than enough and will probably be cheaper direct from Nissan.

Do the legwork yourself. You'll gain nothing but information and know how out of it and there's plenty of information on the net to prevent you from screwing anything up as long as you follow the step by step procedures, use the right tools and don't get ahead of yourself.

If I was going as far as to strip an entire motor apart I'd do alot more than rebuild it with OEM parts but that's just me...
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:13 AM   #4
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What kind of power can be squeezed out of a built sr20 and stock turbo? Also, where can I find more info on how to swap one of these out?
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:23 AM   #5
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Uh not alot cause it's a stock turbo...

You could make more power out of a stock SR20 and a big turbo then you can out of a built SR20 and a stock turbo...
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:25 AM   #6
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stock S15 turbo ? ~300 HP S14 is ~280HP
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:39 AM   #7
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RB

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Originally Posted by Koopa Troopa View Post
I'll destroy any RB20 with my SR on .5 bar.

Why the Eagle rods and pistons? S15 rods and pistons are more than enough and will probably be cheaper direct from Nissan.

Do the legwork yourself. You'll gain nothing but information and know how out of it and there's plenty of information on the net to prevent you from screwing anything up as long as you follow the step by step procedures, use the right tools and don't get ahead of yourself.

If I was going as far as to strip an entire motor apart I'd do alot more than rebuild it with OEM parts but that's just me...

uhhhh...... you can try buddy, with your whopping 170hp to the wheels, and my 230 to da wheels on stock boost. oh and now the good part, my motor is more reliable/cheap/waaaaay better sounds too but, just my thoughts I guess
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:43 AM   #8
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sh*t man I'd rather swap in an RB20 in, I calculated 1800-2000 for complete swap, then sell your sr stuff, and get yourself a nice Fmic/bov.
that's nice, but this thread isn't about what you'd rather do.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:46 AM   #9
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that's nice, but this thread isn't about what you'd rather do.
Its also not about lets be a dick and hate on rb guys, I'm just pointing out an alternative to a costly engine rebuild
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:42 AM   #10
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build it right the first time

cheap.reliable.fast. <- pick 2
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:51 AM   #11
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OEM rebuild is where its at if you're not planning on running like 400hp anytime soon. (yea yea stock motor is rated at 400+) The more OEM parts on a car, the better it runs generally. I too am curious about the general price to have a shop rebuild my head. ( hate doing head work! )

But, prices will vary depending on your location/mechanic. Basically just go to some reputable shops and ask.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
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uhhhh...... you can try buddy, with your whopping 170hp to the wheels, and my 230 to da wheels on stock boost. oh and now the good part, my motor is more reliable/cheap/waaaaay better sounds too but, just my thoughts I guess
Ummm I hate to burst your bubble, but rb25's make about 230whp on stock boost...not rb20's.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:06 PM   #13
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built motor, including assembly parts and everything is around $2500-$3000

Stock rebuild is like $1000-$1500 depending on what you get
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:14 PM   #14
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this shop here in LA (r&d factory) quoted me like 1500 for back to stock sr build if i brought them the motor, but that was like 1 1/2 years ago.i dont know how pricing is where youre at but just to give an idea...... oh and rb20s are worthless, go big(25,26 or go home.... just my opinion, don't start a fight over it. he mentioned nothing about buying an rb20 he simply wanted a rebuild estimate for AN SR.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
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uhhhh...... you can try buddy, with your whopping 170hp to the wheels, and my 230 to da wheels on stock boost. oh and now the good part, my motor is more reliable/cheap/waaaaay better sounds too but, just my thoughts I guess

I think you need to learn "da" correct information

also I think koopatroopa might know a little more about SRs than you...just a thought
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:48 PM   #16
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it costed me maybe a total of $1200-1500 just for rebuilding the motor.
shotpeened rods, CP pistons, completely built head, bc 264 cams, machine work.
i need to get new timing and oil pump parts..
KA24De, btw.
also keep in mind.. i got really good deals on parts.
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:49 PM   #17
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i am doing everything over. i am projecting my build to be 4k. that is mostly labor as i am going either tomei or hks solid pivot, more head work. i already have replacement parts.
make sure you replace main things that might fail; pumps, timing assembly, blah blah blah
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:05 PM   #18
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^l;ol
thats exactly what i DIDNT do.

ughhh.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:15 AM   #19
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sorry to keep off topic but wow, to the pple who neg repd me, and didn't leave a name, what a buncha pu$$ies, back your shit up b4 you tlk. sorry again, and no, those numbers are pretty acurate unless you're an idiot and don't know how to do a swap. idk about rb25's on an s13 chasis, but yes, stock redtop SR dyno=160-170hp and stock silvertop rb20 dyno= 220-230hp, if you don't beleive me ask otis or josh over a RB-Performance, I'm pretty sure they have dyno sheets. and yes, I realize kooper is alot more knowledgeable with sr20's, I didn't realize that when he said .5 bar he didn't mean stock.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:17 AM   #20
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Depends on how much you want to delve into things.

I just did a rebuild on my SR20 and here's approximately what I spent:

-OEM Waterpump: $67
-Circuit Sport Exhaust elbow: $157
-OEM Intake tube: $129
-Exhaust Gaskets: $7.50
-OEM Gasket Kit: $175
-OEM 3-wire O2 Sensor: $57
-OEM Timing Chain: $69
-S14 Upper Waterneck: $55
-OEM Thermostat: $15
-OEM Oil Pan: $55
-OEM Oil Pump/Front Cover: $189
-OEM Oil Pickup: $20
-NGK BRK6 Sparkplugs: $25
-Machine Work (Polished crank, piston ring gapping, head polishing, new crank and rod bearings, cylinder bore, cleaning): ~$350
-CP Pistons: $500
-Seida Connecting Rods: $295
-Vacuum Hoses: $30
-A'PEXi Air Filter: $85
-Taka Turbo Lines: $160
-ARP Headstuds: $113

That comes out to over $2,500 and doesn't include shipping and taxes, plus tools, lubricants, and the money I paid in bay fees a the autoshop.

Hope that kinda gives you an idea of how much you're looking at. Obviously, some of the stuff you can save quite a bit of money, for instance, going with OEM rods and pistons, or reusing parts like the current oil pump if it's in good condition.

Anyway, I hope that gives you a decent estimate of how much you're looking at.

Good Luck!
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:24 AM   #21
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Rebuilds aren't cheap..
thats for sure.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:28 AM   #22
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sorry to keep off topic but wow, to the pple who neg repd me, and didn't leave a name, what a buncha pu$, back your shit up b4 you tlk. sorry again, and no, those numbers are pretty acurate unless you're an idiot and don't know how to do a swap. idk about rb25's on an s13 chasis, but yes, stock redtop SR dyno=160-170hp and stock silvertop rb20 dyno= 220-230hp, if you don't beleive me ask otis or josh over a RB-Performance, I'm pretty sure they have dyno sheets. and yes, I realize kooper is alot more knowledgeable with sr20's, I didn't realize that when he said .5 bar he didn't mean stock.
Sorry to be off topic, but this guy is just wrong. An rb20det stock has 215ps so with drivetrain loss youre looking about 190-ish whp. So how is it that you think you can get 220-230WHP on stock boost? If you say crank hp, which you didnt, i would believe you. On the other hand, rb25's put out 250 hp stock so with drivetrain loss it is expected that you will have 230whp. Dont say i dont know shit because i have an rb25 and i have seen dyno graphs for 20's 25's and 26's. So you should do some research before you go running your mouth. BTW what does doing a swap have to do with how much power you make?
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:55 AM   #23
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if you don't use the right parts, specially exhaust/fuel pump, or don't set the timing/sensors right, have vac leaks or boost leaks, all that stuff makes a huge difference. yes, 215 is what they are rated at, but then again, the rb26 is rated at 287, it puts down round 320-330. and to the guy who neg repd me and said" why would you want extra weight and 2 more cylinders above your front axle" well why don't you go and flame atsuki kuroi for driftin an rb26 s13 at D1, one of the few pple in the world who se a D1 history world record ask him....... and to end this stupid numbers game, I'll post a few links of vids, links to confirm dyno numbers so all you haters can quit being sore losers.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:05 AM   #24
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gahhh, can't find the rest, I'll look later. look through this one, theres a few stock ones just convert kw to hp and if you can't do that, then that's probably why you drive an sr. haha jk jk have fun pple.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...o-t103095.html
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:11 AM   #25
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One word baby Mazworx if you want and Sr built right go to them and have it done that way you know it'll be done right
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:19 AM   #26
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anywho, Rocko, sorry if I created such drama, just trying to help you out with some info, good luck with your sr rebuild, if you do end up going that route, please post as much info as you can about how much it cost and all, I'm kinda curious. thnx
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:23 AM   #27
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i have spent over 8 thousand in my motor build. it realy all depends on that you want and do. it can range from 2 grand to 12 grand. but i didnt do the head. so i could have gone more.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:29 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oo_Skyline_oO View Post
gahhh, can't find the rest, I'll look later. look through this one, theres a few stock ones just convert kw to hp and if you can't do that, then that's probably why you drive an sr. haha jk jk have fun pple.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...o-t103095.html
dude what are you arguing?? are you arguing stock SR vs. stock RB20? or modified vs. modified? at first I thought that you were arguing that an RB20 came making better numbers stock but that link you just posted is all ppl with modified RB20s. Why go for the extra weight and still keep the 2.0liter displacent? not to mention a sr with a t28, fmic, z32 Maf, ROM tune, inj and walbro can make about 250whp....my last SR was making 350whp on stock internals and they can go way higher than that....if youre gonna go RB might as well go RB25
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:37 AM   #29
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no I'm just backing up what I said about stock RB hp #'s. like I said, just look in there, you'll find some stockies you'll just have to search alil more and yea I mean stock for stock. RB25?? not too big a fan of it, either 20 or 26 for me. I chose RB20 because when my single slammer daily popped, it cost me a grand total of like few bucks shy of 1500 for complete swap( I had fuel pump, i/c kit and hoses/fluids/clamps laying round the shop) RB25 generaly run round 4-5 g's, might as well go all out RB26 for like 2-3 gran more depending on how you get your parts and who does your labor.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:45 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Oo_Skyline_oO View Post
if you don't use the right parts, specially exhaust/fuel pump, or don't set the timing/sensors right, have vac leaks or boost leaks, all that stuff makes a huge difference. yes, 215 is what they are rated at, but then again, the rb26 is rated at 287, it puts down round 320-330. and to the guy who neg repd me and said" why would you want extra weight and 2 more cylinders above your front axle" well why don't you go and flame atsuki kuroi for driftin an rb26 s13 at D1, one of the few pple in the world who se a D1 history world record ask him....... and to end this stupid numbers game, I'll post a few links of vids, links to confirm dyno numbers so all you haters can quit being sore losers.

HEY COCK******(people found the "sucker part offensive lol) i PMD YOU!!!!! AN the WHAT!!

i know otis and josh also... you can name drop all you want... doesnt make you anymore legit!

explain to me how you go from 287 to 320-330... i didnt know motorsets gained hp on while hibernating in the container on the way over from japan. if im wrong clue me in please id love to know.

Im no rb master nor do i care to be, but to my knowledge(correct me if i am misinformed) but Most Full track RB26 s13's done Correctly, Have the engine recessed into the firewall as far back as possible to help with balance, and WHO cares when your making 600whp and you are a great driver. once again i believe he asked for help with a build not a rb20 swap!


sorry for turning your thread into an argument!
best of luck with your build.
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