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Old 10-12-2018, 06:25 PM   #22261
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What are the vacuum and coolant nipples on the intake manifold made of?
It looks like there is a coating on them that sands off, if the coating is gone will they rust?
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:35 PM   #22262
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Is there such a thing as a Wideband that does NOT come with a gauge pod? I basically want to replace the stock O2 sensor, have the output available for logging, a narrowband output fed to the ECU, but be able to hide the box somewhere.
https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...afr-controller

https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc2.php

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so, when the photobucket-gate thing hit, there was a link that was going around that would pull up a previous version of the site, prior to pb screwing us. does anyone have that link?


its getting tiring finding old lexus threads with a lot of good info, and the pictures don't work.
Just search for Photobucket extensions for Google Chrome.
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:34 AM   #22263
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Is there such a thing as a Wideband that does NOT come with a gauge pod? I basically want to replace the stock O2 sensor, have the output available for logging, a narrowband output fed to the ECU, but be able to hide the box somewhere.
what ecu? if its a standalone just hook up the wideband sensor, input the calibration table into the ecu and your done.
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Old 10-13-2018, 01:23 PM   #22264
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what ecu? if its a standalone just hook up the wideband sensor, input the calibration table into the ecu and your done.
Would just be an S15 ECU with Nistune board. Nistune board won't take a wideband input directly, but software can use it for logging.
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Old 10-13-2018, 08:25 PM   #22265
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im not sure what ballerbolts sold, but if youre after Ti stuff, check out Toronto cycles or pro-bolt.


ive ordered from Toronto cycles before and haven't had an issue. their website looks like it was made/designed around the time the caveman discovered fire, but id still recommend buying from them. I haven't ordered from pro bolt, but my dad does fairly frequently for the sprint car he works on. pro bolt is sorta pricey, but ti isn't cheap to begin with. their black Ti is also DLC.
Checked these sites but they dont have what I need.

>Does anyone know where I can order good quality M8x1.25 turbo exhaust housing to dump pipe studs? And are the OEM ones 35mm in length?

I read something about steel studs not being cut out for the job due to heat-cycles so Im trying to avoid steel replacement studs. I'll check ACE but I think they'll carry lower grade metal studs (I could be wrong). I couldnt find anything from ARP either.
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Old 10-14-2018, 08:28 AM   #22266
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Checked these sites but they dont have what I need.

>Does anyone know where I can order good quality M8x1.25 turbo exhaust housing to dump pipe studs? And are the OEM ones 35mm in length?

I read something about steel studs not being cut out for the job due to heat-cycles so Im trying to avoid steel replacement studs. I'll check ACE but I think they'll carry lower grade metal studs (I could be wrong). I couldnt find anything from ARP either.
If you are going to go stainless or other metal harder than basic treated steel, AND if you are using ANY bolt and nut combo or bolts in a car(EXCEPT head studs) use silver colored anti seize. This dab will stop heat welding for those of you who still do not understand why exhaust hardware is hard to remove
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Old 10-14-2018, 09:55 AM   #22267
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If you are going to go stainless or other metal harder than basic treated steel, AND if you are using ANY bolt and nut combo or bolts in a car(EXCEPT head studs) use silver colored anti seize. This dab will stop heat welding for those of you who still do not understand why exhaust hardware is hard to remove
So youre saying I can get away with using ACE hardware stainless studs as long as I apply some anti-sieze? What metal are the SR230 turbos made out of anyway?
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Old 10-14-2018, 02:28 PM   #22268
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are there aftermarket s chassis front knuckles that have provision for cts-v brakes or do you always have to use the adapter?
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Old 10-15-2018, 05:46 AM   #22269
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So youre saying I can get away with using ACE hardware stainless studs as long as I apply some anti-sieze? What metal are the SR230 turbos made out of anyway?
Not ACE or Lowes et al, NOT THEM. Go to your local FASTENER shop. We have Fastenal and a local guy here(Clarksville Fasteners) that do nothing but bolts, nits, washers, a few things like Kroil(It IS made in Nashville)
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Old 10-15-2018, 06:29 AM   #22270
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Not ACE or Lowes et al, NOT THEM. Go to your local FASTENER shop. We have Fastenal and a local guy here(Clarksville Fasteners) that do nothing but bolts, nits, washers, a few things like Kroil(It IS made in Nashville)
There's a fastenal in my area too so I'll check that out

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Old 10-15-2018, 04:11 PM   #22271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
Checked these sites but they dont have what I need.

>Does anyone know where I can order good quality M8x1.25 turbo exhaust housing to dump pipe studs? And are the OEM ones 35mm in length?

I read something about steel studs not being cut out for the job due to heat-cycles so Im trying to avoid steel replacement studs. I'll check ACE but I think they'll carry lower grade metal studs (I could be wrong). I couldnt find anything from ARP either.
im sorry. you said baller bolts, so I had assumed you were asking about dess up bolts and not turbo hardware. I had to look it up on their site, but it does look like they sell SR turbo studs.


if im understanding correctly what you need, FR sport has them for $1.09 a pop:
https://frsport.com/frsport-stud-8mm...1-25pitch-stud
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Old 10-15-2018, 06:21 PM   #22272
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Just search for Photobucket extensions for Google Chrome.
thank you. I believe I tried this a while ago and I couldn't get it to work. I will have to try on the home computer.
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Old 10-15-2018, 07:35 PM   #22273
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im sorry. you said baller bolts, so I had assumed you were asking about dess up bolts and not turbo hardware. I had to look it up on their site, but it does look like they sell SR turbo studs.


if im understanding correctly what you need, FR sport has them for $1.09 a pop:
https://frsport.com/frsport-stud-8mm...1-25pitch-stud
Youre right, I wasnt looking for dressup bolts. Im kinda bummed ballerbolts was a hoax, they seemed to have the right idea. I was totally ready to buy driveshaft bolts
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:22 PM   #22274
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How do I convince my ex-wife to give me back my kids


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Old 10-16-2018, 09:18 PM   #22275
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How do I convince my ex-wife to give me back my kids


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You have a court tell her to do it.

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Old 10-21-2018, 03:27 PM   #22276
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Question for those with z32/r32 rear drums. I installed them today and the hub is hitting is just barely hitting the anchor and spring perches. I have the PBM ebrake spacer, so I dunno if that is pushing it out too far or what. Any clues?


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Old 10-21-2018, 04:50 PM   #22277
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Looks like you have the thick anchor that doesn't need a spacer. It shouldn't be that close to the hub.
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Old 10-21-2018, 05:05 PM   #22278
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I thought so too but looking again, they should be the thinner ones. Its got the nub and the hole isnt tapped like the one on the left.

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Old 10-22-2018, 01:06 PM   #22279
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Are the '03 350z brake parts the ones I need for my s14 240sx big brake conversion?
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:52 PM   #22280
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So I own a rhd silvia s13 which comes with 5 bolt rear axles/output shafts and a jdm vlsd diff. I have a welded diff out of a us 240sx that has 3x2 output shafts that I would like to install.

Is it possible for me to install the 240sx welded diff and use the jdm 5 bolt axles output shafts with the 5 bolt axles?
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:46 PM   #22281
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240sx with sr20det no spark

Hello all. I have what I hope are not silly questions (know very little about these engines/cars) Helping my son to troubleshoot. He swapped his ECU for a Power FC. It ran great for a couple of weeks, then lost spark. I've read a ton about no spark situations and checked everything people recommended. All looks good except when checking pins on the ECU, several pins, including the ECU ground, have good ground, but also 8 volts?!? Might that cause no spark and/or messed up the ECU?? Also, backup power (pin 46) shows 12+ volts (not constant), but ECU power(pin 47) shows nothing?!? Could that keep the ECU from "saving" information? Thanks for your help. (Nevermind, I think I posted in the wrong area. I'll repost in Engine Tech).

Last edited by cynabel; 10-22-2018 at 10:58 PM.. Reason: Wrong place I think.
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:50 AM   #22282
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What clutch master cylinder is everyone using? Everytime I use an exedy replacement or some autozone trash I constantly have issues.. opinions on the wildwood clutch master?
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Old 10-24-2018, 07:54 AM   #22283
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What clutch master cylinder is everyone using? Everytime I use an exedy replacement or some autozone trash I constantly have issues.. opinions on the wildwood clutch master?
Centric, ie, Stop Tech makes great brake parts. Theirs is bored at like .020 over OE with brand new oversized parts...which makes stopping really nice
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Old 10-31-2018, 07:40 PM   #22284
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Hi friends,

I am in dire need of someone that understands how 3-piece wheels work (l0l). I am currently working with 18x10 +13 (4.0" Outer Lip, 6.0" Inner) VS-XX rear wheels and it's improperly sized for the stock S14 body. Mind you I bought the car with the wheels already in place.

The issue is that the rear lip protrudes a solid 0.5-0.75" past the fender; the tire sits in such a way that the lip is the post protruding piece of the wheel. I am trying to figure out what specs (lip and inner barrel) would achieve a wheel that sits flush with the fender. Ideally I could reuse either the 4" lip or 6" inner barrel.

My logic thinks I can get a 3" lip and that should do, but would changing the inner barrel to 0.5" shorter make a difference or is that just from the suspension side and outside will be unaffected?
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:50 AM   #22285
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Hi friends,

I am in dire need of someone that understands how 3-piece wheels work (l0l). I am currently working with 18x10 +13 (4.0" Outer Lip, 6.0" Inner) VS-XX rear wheels and it's improperly sized for the stock S14 body. Mind you I bought the car with the wheels already in place.

The issue is that the rear lip protrudes a solid 0.5-0.75" past the fender; the tire sits in such a way that the lip is the post protruding piece of the wheel. I am trying to figure out what specs (lip and inner barrel) would achieve a wheel that sits flush with the fender. Ideally I could reuse either the 4" lip or 6" inner barrel.

My logic thinks I can get a 3" lip and that should do, but would changing the inner barrel to 0.5" shorter make a difference or is that just from the suspension side and outside will be unaffected?
Perfect flush fitment on the S14 is with a Square G6 model with 17x9+15. The below calculator is pretty dang good with the measurements from center and offset to check lip distance. Do your math and look at the link's information more than the picture. The math data is accurate

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:07 AM   #22286
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Perfect flush fitment on the S14 is with a Square G6 model with 17x9+15. The below calculator is pretty dang good with the measurements from center and offset to check lip distance. Do your math and look at the link's information more than the picture. The math data is accurate

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
I never really understood these calculators that compare one wheel to the other, I dont have a starting point. Furthermore, Im not trying to forego the 3 piece wheel for something else.
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:51 AM   #22287
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I never really understood these calculators that compare one wheel to the other, I dont have a starting point. Furthermore, Im not trying to forego the 3 piece wheel for something else.
Your starting point in the current wheels, the calculator will help you see what changes to the barrel will effect.

For a 3 piece wheel, the center disk is static, and the sizes of the barrel and lip will effect width and offset. Your assumption is correct though, a reduction in lip size will bring the outside edge in by that amount with no other changes. 1" is roughly 25mm, so you'd end up with a 9" +38 offset (if my math is correct). Might have to play around with a calculator to verify though.
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:17 AM   #22288
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I never really understood these calculators that compare one wheel to the other, I dont have a starting point. Furthermore, Im not trying to forego the 3 piece wheel for something else.
Look at the center line of the barrel. This is static. Then look at the offset line for the hub. Note the barrel measurements from center line or offset line. Look at the lines that show how far out the wheel pokes over stock.

1" = 33mm

Your HUB surface is your center line. Offset as in a positive number works as follows:

STOCK SE wheel: 16" x 6.5" +42mm This is a battle sunk wheel. It is about 2" inside the wheel well and fender line. The front surface of the wheel is roughly 4" from the hub surface


Like I said, use the calculator, and look at the picture. DO THIS UNTIL YOU UNDERSTAND. You are smart, you will figure it out, then suddenly wheel fitment, A disc, B disc, and 0 Disc will suddenly be easy to figure out
Hint: 0 disc is perfect center, A disc is weak, B disc is strong
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Old 11-03-2018, 02:38 PM   #22289
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1" = 33mm
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Old 11-03-2018, 05:21 PM   #22290
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He's obviously using penis inches for those conversions instead of standard inches.
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