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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 01-25-2015, 11:15 AM   #1201
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Thanks, I'm just looking for motor/transmission/harness/ecu. All the deals I find the seller wants to include "240sx swap kit" with it so the price stays up. I don't need that shit though. I'm just going to hit up an importer.
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:43 PM   #1202
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Is there a company that makes an adapter kit for 370z transmission to bolt on to an RB25?
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:23 PM   #1203
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Question is why. Other than gaining an extra gear, there is a lot to consider

VQ transmission swap points to consider
1. speed sensor, there isn't one. VQ's get speed out of the diff
2. Adapting, usually required adapting a RB bell housing to an adpater to the VQ tranny
3. Gearing. First three gears are pretty short (dialed in for 3.5 rear). So spinning in first three gears is pretty easy.

RB25 tranny's are very stout

RB25 transmission, less headache, less work, less hassle and totally strong.

Read more here

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=261850
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:06 PM   #1204
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Does anyone know where to find the bottom end and head torque specs for the NEO. r33 FSM is easy to find but i can't find NEO torque specs anywhere. thanks?
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Old 02-21-2015, 10:50 AM   #1205
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For anyone looking to replace their original harness, you can get a brand new one here: http://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25det.html
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:02 PM   #1206
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Old 04-10-2015, 09:50 AM   #1207
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We have harnesses for the RB20, RB25, RB25 NEO and RB26

Let us know if there is anything we can assist you with

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/
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Old 09-21-2015, 03:12 PM   #1208
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I was wondering if anyone had been successful using the stock s14 radiator with dual Altima fans? I don't want to run a pusher system as I want to keep my a/c. Also I already have all the Altima stuff lying around.

Anyone been able to pull this off?
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:53 PM   #1209
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Hey everyone I just swapped my rb20 into my s13 recently started right up but runs crappy. sputters and pops a lot and smells pig rich. I did a lot of testing a found that my TPS and throttle switch are not getting the proper voltage. I tried replacing with another sensor with no luck, still getting the same read. Tps had proper 5v power supply but the signal is at .32v at closed throttle an increased to 3.1v at WOT, that's maxed out on the adjustment range. Throttle switch is only getting 3.3v at closed throttle and is suppose to be at 8-10v. And that's 3.3v with the sensor plugged in and unplugged. I've checked my harness for any breaks or loose connections and doubled check all my grounds. All voltage reads have been checked on the plug side and ecu side and did not change. I'm leaning towards it possibly having a bad ecu? Thoughts?? Or suggestions before I hunt one down. Or is it harness related?? Thanks
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Old 10-07-2015, 09:20 AM   #1210
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Next step is to find an ECU to swap with and see if that helps. Also make sure that the ECU is getting full voltage (power in) from the loom.
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Old 10-11-2015, 07:08 PM   #1211
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Whelp after checking my harness over and over. I looked up my ecu # and it turned out to be a rb25de ecu. Ecu number was p7 / 23710 23u02 / mec-r542 / a1 / 4930 . Anyone that needs to look an ecu number I found some good info on this site http://www.rbparts.co.nz/page/342746?showMobileSite=1
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Old 10-11-2015, 07:54 PM   #1212
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it turned out to be a rb25de ecu.
Hate it when that happens. Let me know if you need an ECU. I have one on shelf gathering dust.
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:27 PM   #1213
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Any one have a pin out of the white F1 dash plug & know what wires must be pinned in it from an rb20 harness here's a pic of the plug I'm talking about
Attached Images
File Type: jpg F1 DASH plug.jpg (51.5 KB, 40 views)
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:21 PM   #1214
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Can I use r33 rb25det piston ring on a rb25det neo??? I know neo rings have a different part number but I already have a set from a r33. Thanks!!!!
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:55 PM   #1215
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Can I use r33 rb25det piston ring on a rb25det neo??? I know neo rings have a different part number but I already have a set from a r33. Thanks!!!!
I already found out that they are different, Well Just the 1st ring is
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Old 04-16-2016, 10:53 AM   #1216
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Ok I have a RB20det going into my s14. I want to do the wiring myself to save some bucks. All the the links I have found while researching how to do the wiring are dead. Does anyone have some stuff saved that they could post up or even email me? This is the most complete info I've found so far but like I said, the links are dead. http://forums.nicoclub.com/wiring-a-...14-t69266.html

I don't know which plugs are they are talking about on the RB harness that get wired into the f3 dash plug.
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Old 06-28-2016, 03:58 PM   #1217
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Q45 Throttle Position Sensor Options

I'm in the process of building a RB25det NEO for my 95 S14, currently in the "drain my bank account" stage, before I get to installing everything on the motor and then finally swapping out the KA.

I purchased a "Greddy Style" intake for a decent price. Not some crappy cast eBay junk, but a precision machined billet flange and sheet aluminum construction intake plenum.

It comes with a 90mm Q45 sized throttle body that looks to be good quality from the photos, but that remains to be seen. Regardless, I am looking at TPS options since it is supposed to use the Q45 TPS.

The prices for the Q45 TPS are fairly high considering what they are and the prices of other units on the market. It leads me to believe that supply and demand are driving up prices with everyone and their brother putting Q45 TBs on every engine imaginable.

At any rate, I have searched my literal ass off trying to find an equivalent TPS that is plug and play or that works with minimal modification, and have determined the best bet is the TPS from an early 90s Maxima (V6). They appear to be the same unit, with the same plug, but I have read that the Power and Ground leads are reversed (Signal is still the middle pin).

So, does anyone know if I de-pin a Maxima TPS and reverse the Power and Ground leads if the TPS is now the equivalent to the Q45?

If it comes down to it I'll purchase a true Q45 TPS, but it would benefit us all if we could come up with another option. Maybe someone who works at an auto parts store could compare the two and make sure the plugs and bolting points are the same? They sure look the same from photos.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:51 PM   #1218
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Hey guys sorry in advance if this is beaten to death but apparantly search function won't find the keywords "S15". Anyways, I couldn't find any definitive answers on what is needed for a RB25DET swap into a S15 Spec-S Chassis. Is it the exact same as dropping it into a S14? Can someone point my dumbass into a parts list of whats needed to be done?
Engine/Tranny/Wiring obviously, do I have to swap a r33/32 subframe into the S15 chassis? or could I find some engine mounts to have the engine sitting properly? Also would modifications be needed to have the transmission shifter line up with the factory location of the shifter?

Help!! or point my dumbass in the proper direction thanks.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:19 PM   #1219
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So I started my rb25 for the first time a couple weeks ago to find out that I didn't seal the oil pan good enough. So I took the motor back out to just make sure it wasn't the rear main seal. It wasn't the seal but was the oil pan as I suspected. So a couple months ago I came across a really good deal on a n1 pump and I figured that while I have it off and pan off I would change it. So I'm getting all the marks on the timing set so I can take the belt off and the intake is off 3 teeth. I know 100% when I put it together originally after changing head gasket and putting head studs on that I had the marks lined up perfectly What would cause it to go three teeth off. I literally ran the motor for about 10 sec. the tension on my belt is fine. I have a greddy timing belt. I didn't change the belt tensioner cause the person I bought the motor car from recently changed the water pump and timing belt. So I guess my questions are why or how could it have done that and how should I set it so I don't damage anything when taking belt off.


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Old 07-16-2017, 08:29 AM   #1220
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Anyone have the wiring guide for Rb25 s2 into s14?
I've searched all over the internet and I'm getting old writes with no pictures of the pinouts or not for a series 2. TIA.
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:03 PM   #1221
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A lot of the pictures out there were hosted by non other than photobucket, so a lot of things will be a lot harder now. The rb wiring for the s14 is pretty simple thou. There should be a guide out there on how to wire it for a 200sx, u use that one combined with the usdm f3 pinout.
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:59 PM   #1222
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Hello, I have a RB25det S2 with a Greddy intake manifold and I'm in need of a new IACV. In my searching I've found I can use a 91-94 Sentra Iacv but my only question in which I can't seem to find an answer to is: my current iacv has the t fitting for the hoses and the 91-94 Sentra only has one, do I have to transplant the t fitting into the Sentra Iacv? Do I just omit one of the hoses altogether? Do I join the hoses together into one? I'd like to keep both idle and air control. Any help would be great, thank you.
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:36 AM   #1223
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JDM Parts Supply/ Request

I am currently in Japan and am able to supply you with JDM Silvia parts (among many other makes) for a variety of models and years; Am and have been in the automotive industry and scene for many years, shop is based out of Texas; so no need to worry about purely overseas transactions with non US nationals. If you are searching for a part for that one off build that you can't seem to find or are just wanting to build something with JDM parts for the nostalgia, I will be more than willing to help you; feel free to contact me with any questions or needs.
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:52 AM   #1224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smellslikerubber View Post
also looking on other opions on where to go with the car from here? as far as motor work. what are good upgrades to start with? i want to get a good strong running motor before i go and try to drift the car. if that is what i decided to do with it
What motor do you have?
I suggest to make between 200 to 300 wheel hp and get as much seat time on drifting you can. And don't overbuild your car. If you have a stock rb25 then keep it stock and go have fun. Don't keep doing lots of upgrades and don't go after high hp.

That my opinion of course.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:47 AM   #1225
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RB RB25 swap on s14 shell

Hey guys,
I need to know if I can delete the 3 pin connector that goes into the tranny harness. This 3 pin connector is located at the bottom of the engine bay fuse box. Looks like its the oil pressure light. The yellow wire goes into the cluster.
So my question is: Do I need this plug on my car since I have a oil pressure gauge and a stand alone ecu?

Thank you!

PICS:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lH...0OZn5oLAcLnoHI
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:55 AM   #1226
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For anyone with a PreUpdate RB20 or have a REDTOP with those finned valve covers (This means you have square plugs for your CAS, COOLANT TEMP, TPS and IGNITER).

Wiring Specialites can make a Harness for your engine. Just tell them its a Early Style RB20.

If your trying to replace your O2 Sensor. Type this in your search bar.
APW INTERNATIONAL INC. AP3-10 OE Style

If Youre trying to replace your Ignitor
Type this (22020-58s01 nissan) in google. You should find some websites still selling these new.
OR
Just go to autozone website and register vehicle as 1990 Nissan 300ZX turbo. They sell the ignitor there for 200 dollars new.

Replacing your CAS
1990 Nissan 300ZX turbo, just go to autozone and buy one new.

If your trying to replace your coolant temp.
Add 1990 300ZX as your vehicle in Autozone (or anythign similar) and the coolant temp sensor should be square plug.
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:14 PM   #1227
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RB20DET

So I’m fully rebuilding this motor and one question that comes to my mind as of now is the use of a thicker head gasket.

I’m planning to push between 350bhp or 400whp max. I read around zilvia that the stock Nissan headgasket should be able to handle within that power range. How true is this statement?

I also see that Tomei offers Headgasket options for the RB20 in different thicknesses.

The best gas I can get here from where I’m from is 92 octane.

Any good advice and criticism is welcomed. Aloha.
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Old 07-26-2019, 07:32 AM   #1228
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Quote:
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RB20DET

So I’m fully rebuilding this motor and one question that comes to my mind as of now is the use of a thicker head gasket.

I’m planning to push between 350bhp or 400whp max. I read around zilvia that the stock Nissan headgasket should be able to handle within that power range. How true is this statement?

I also see that Tomei offers Headgasket options for the RB20 in different thicknesses.

The best gas I can get here from where I’m from is 92 octane.

Any good advice and criticism is welcomed. Aloha.





honestly, do what the aussies have been saying with the RB's stock OEM head gasket and APR headstuds.
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Old 09-16-2019, 03:53 PM   #1229
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So figured i'd put a few tidbits in here to share what I've learnt over the past 15 years

(background: drifting instructor for 4 years, owned an RB25 for 12 years with 38 events and unopened block/clutch/trans, pitcrew for 2x D1NZ teams)

One thing i've found with my engine and countless others I've worked on is that cooling (both water & oil) is critical.

First: oil

The first thing i always say to people running these engines is to get an oil temp & oil pressure gauge, preferably with warning lights. If oil temps go over 110 deg C then cool it down. Next step is an oil cooler with a fresh air feed, ideally in front of the intake-side wheel in behind a bashbar. You can go as far as i have and rig up water sprayers as well but that's up to you.

Yes RB engines don't let oil drain back down from the head very well, no denying that. They also tend to get a bit of blow by as they get old or as boost is bumped up. My engine compression tests up ~120psi cold across all 6, so the crankcase is getting a bit of blowby for sure.

Importantly in all this, all the factory crankcase pressure vents are only in the head. Unlike SR's, there is no breather coming from the block.

So the crankcase pressure is using the oil drains to evacuate via the vents in the cam covers. The oil pump keeps pumping oil up to the head, it can't drain back because the blowby is using the drains and you starve the bottom end of oil. Engine blown up, people get angry and don't bother to figure out why.

Solution: drill the block

We've found drilling the block where there are no oil galleries and venting it to a catch can remedied all problems. Oil temps dropped as more oil was returning to the pan faster. Things like rocker cover gaskets failed less as well as they are no longer seeing anywhere near as much pressure.
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Old 09-16-2019, 04:23 PM   #1230
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Ok, next up is water temp control

RB engines in S-chassis notoriously run hot. It's a big engine in a small engine bay, no getting around that fact. Factory radiators never cut the mustard, they will always struggle in anything more than stock applications (I ran a GTR radiator and it was easily outperformed by a fresh 42mm alloy job).

A lot of people will throw a gigantic 600x300 intercooler slap bang in front of the radiator too, and run a fibreglass front bar of some creation. Throw a couple of "2000 cfm" pusher fans on and wonder why it won't cool.

First up, most intercooler setups are retardedly sized. 2-2.5" piping, stepping up to 3" inlet & outlets on a 600x300 running 10psi through it is the definition of useless. I've been running a 500x230 with 2.5" inlet/outlet since the start and push 350 wheel through it no problems.

Next are the lack of factory undertray from the front bar to the lower radiator support, usually part of the factory front bar. Fibreglass front bars never extend that far and people never look to replace it.

Solution: ducting.

Grab some alloy sheet and bend up a bottom tray that slots inside the new front bar and bolts to the lower radiator support. Then grab your favourite beer box and trace out some side panels in cardboard, then transfer to alloy. Go as high as you can, ideally to the top radiator support. These are just as crucial as the bottom tray, especially for drifting as the air that hits the car doesn't come at you front on. Redirecting the air from sliding past the intercooler and out through the wheel well is a big source of cooling. Grab a holesaw, cut some holes in them for the intercooler pipes/joiners (line the hole with split vacuum hose so you don't wear holes)

Next up is fans. Most people run pushers because there's just no room on the back, which is fine. But don't cheap out here - if you're going to throw bills at an alloy radiator, go spency on the fans too. Can't get better than Spal.

Run each fan with their own power feed as well. They will pull serious amps, but these days there are lots of products out there to make this super simple. Thermoswitches in the top hose/feed are a good shout if you're the forgetful type.

With alloy radiator/appropriate intercooler/ducting and good fans there's only going to be a handful still experiencing the odd issue. Oil coolers help a lot with lower water temps, as the two normally run within 10-15 degrees of each other, but the last are sprayers

4mm vacuum hose, check valves and misting spray jets are what you're after. You can run these off a sprayer bottle pump no problem. The use of sprayers is the tricky part. They work by applying water to a hot surface, allowing heat to be drawn out and evaporate. So you want the water on there in good time to draw the heat off before it's too high. However, you're also talking about spraying water on a surface that's in front of the wheels, which may be in the process of keeping you from not dying. So I err on the side of more sprayers and apply immediately on the cool down portion, giving it time to be applied and evaporate before the section starts again. Also, add one or two on an oil cooler if you run one
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