This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[Silvi]

yes, the lower bolt holding the caliper itself
I will not be accessible to the car for few days, but I will take more pics as soon as possible

[TheRealSy90]

Probably not going to be compatible. One thing you could do would be to use a countersunk allen head bolt for that bolt hole. Have the hole tapered so that the bolt is flush with the bracket. Then bolt the caliper to the bracket before bolting the bracket to the spindle.

[ka-titties]

Or mill out that section of the knuckle and weld in an extra reinforcement.

Or don't use such overkill calipers.

[stuckonfresh]

this may be a stupid question, but its difficult to assess without a full pic and caliper and rotor on, but can that bracket be flipped so that that bottom extension goes outward for bolt hole access? or can it be rotated 180 degrees and still have the caliper mount normally?

[Silvi]

Unfortunately mounting the caliper/adapter upwards still not working without knuckle modifications. And if caliper will sit upwards, the smaller/bigger pistons will be in the wrong location

Using allen head bolt couldn't work only because of the closing torque. it will kill easily the bolt head

[stuckonfresh]

I was looking at that pic again, what is that bracket made of? Also what is behind the blocked hole (knuckleside)? Is it just sheet metal or something more intricate?

[TheRealSy90]

If you got a quality bolt with a proper sized allan I bet you could torque it no problem. The torque is on the nut/threads/friction under the sunk bolt head. You're only holding the bolt from spinning with the allan until the friction takes over when torqueing it.

[Silvi]

Yeah its just a piece of metal, the bracket made of metal as well.
I think my only option is to cut the area behind the bolt hole and weld the bracket on the knuckle

[stuckonfresh]

I have had similar probs with other knuckles. I would suggest first trying everything possible to fit it without modifying the knuckle (to ensure the integrity of the knuckle itself). Maybe see if there is a way to use the existing bolts (ones that are accessible) to help attach the caliper.

Have you emailed Driftworks about this with pictures? They would probably know the best way to go with this project. I have emailed companies in the past about their products design before making modifications, to ensure I wasn't going to compromise the structural integrity of the product. I would send them an email with some pictures and explain what is being used and ask their opinion about what you should do to make the setup work.

[speedfiend]

Got an alignment question on my s14 that I figured I would post up here first before making a new thread.

Recently installed ERA-1 modded front knuckles with PBM S14 inner tie-rods and SPL V5 outer tie-rods. Now I haven't received my P2M offset rack spacers yet so please take that into consideration when reading this. At the moment the tie-rods are as short as possible and my wheels are still toed in pretty good. I understand that the offset rack spacers are going to add even more length to the existing tie-rod also. So obviously I need to to cut some length off the inner tie-rods to gain the necessary adjustment to make the tie-rods shorter. My question is, does anyone know how much length needs to be trimmed off the inner tie-rods? Supposedly the Z33 inners with SPL outers on an s14 with modded knuckles works without cutting, so if anyone happens to know the length of the Z33 inners then maybe I can just match that length and be OK. Any help is much appreciated.
Thanx, Cameron

[koukimonst3r]

Originally Posted by speedfiend

Got an alignment question on my s14 that I figured I would post up here first before making a new thread.

Recently installed ERA-1 modded front knuckles with PBM S14 inner tie-rods and SPL V5 outer tie-rods. Now I haven't received my P2M offset rack spacers yet so please take that into consideration when reading this. At the moment the tie-rods are as short as possible and my wheels are still toed in pretty good. I understand that the offset rack spacers are going to add even more length to the existing tie-rod also. So obviously I need to to cut some length off the inner tie-rods to gain the necessary adjustment to make the tie-rods shorter. My question is, does anyone know how much length needs to be trimmed off the inner tie-rods? Supposedly the Z33 inners with SPL outers on an s14 with modded knuckles works without cutting, so if anyone happens to know the length of the Z33 inners then maybe I can just match that length and be OK. Any help is much appreciated.
Thanx, Cameron

http://forums.nicoclub.com/z32-vs-z3...n-t540340.html

[speedfiend]

Thanx for the link man. Now I need to confirm that the z33 length is in fact correct with spl outers and moded knuckles on an s14.
Cameron

[jaysgottaredtop]

Relevant:

GKTech now makes an inner tie rod with a million inches of thread.

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/m14-...r-tie-rod.html

[Mister.E]

I have a set of these but I haven't put them on yet.

[ka-titties]

ONE MILLION INCHES

that's a lot of inches, man.

[spooled240]

^I know right, I'm very impressed.

[joshchewuhh]

Okay guys I have a weird issue.

Here is my current set up

-PBM forged front knuckles
-PBM steering rack bushings
-PBM inner tie rods
-25mm extended LCA
-9J +22 wheels

Currently my alignment settings are
caster- 7.5
Camber- -6
Toe-0

On my LCA I have bump stops welded onto the LCA, and bolts are used to adjust so my wheel doesn't rub the tension rod. Well my driver side bolt compared to my passenger is way shorter. I actually have to use a super long bolt on my passenger side to keep my driver side wheel from rubbing. I'm super confused as to why this is happening? Shouldn't the bump stops bolts be the same length from lock to lock? Maybe my rack isn't centered?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by joshchewuhh

Okay guys I have a weird issue.

Here is my current set up

-PBM forged front knuckles
-PBM steering rack bushings
-PBM inner tie rods
-25mm extended LCA
-9J +22 wheels

Currently my alignment settings are
caster- 7.5
Camber- -6
Toe-0

On my LCA I have bump stops welded onto the LCA, and bolts are used to adjust so my wheel doesn't rub the tension rod. Well my driver side bolt compared to my passenger is way shorter. I actually have to use a super long bolt on my passenger side to keep my driver side wheel from rubbing. I'm super confused as to why this is happening? Shouldn't the bump stops bolts be the same length from lock to lock? Maybe my rack isn't centered?

Sounds like the rack isn't centered

[jaysgottaredtop]

Driver side needs a longer bolt than the passenger side to keep the wheels from hitting the tension rod?

Sounds like the rack centering is irrelevant, as it currently has enough room in both directions for your wheel to contact the TR.

I would guess either the FLCA fab work isn't exactly mirrored right to left, or there's a mismatch in R/L castor causing the geometries to not quite match.

[derass]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

I would guess either the FLCA fab work isn't exactly mirrored right to left, or there's a mismatch in R/L castor causing the geometries to not quite match.

I noticed this with my setup too but never figured it out. I also thought it was a difference in castor. I had extended FLCAs, so them not being identical could have been the cause too.

[TheRealSy90]

Caster and lca length would both contribute to it for sure.

[epik1]

Hey guys, I've seen the post on the very first page with the lengths of different oem tie rod lengths.

I know it's been covered before, but I don't want to search through 240 pages lol.

S13:
-S14 FLCA
-Stock S13 knuckle
- currently had Tein inner/outer, but outer broke on one side, looking to revise setup
-adjustable tension rods

What would be the optimal inner/outer tie rod to run? Looking more towards staying with OEM/OEM equivalent parts that are easily accessible at Parts Source/Autozone (for USA) so that I can stock up haha.

Thanks!

[koukimonst3r]

Originally Posted by epik1

Hey guys, I've seen the post on the very first page with the lengths of different oem tie rod lengths.

I know it's been covered before, but I don't want to search through 240 pages lol.

S13:
-S14 FLCA
-Stock S13 knuckle
- currently had Tein inner/outer, but outer broke on one side, looking to revise setup
-adjustable tension rods

What would be the optimal inner/outer tie rod to run? Looking more towards staying with OEM/OEM equivalent parts that are easily accessible at Parts Source/Autozone (for USA) so that I can stock up haha.

Thanks!

Might as well go back to s13 oem inner and outer

[Sleepy_Steve]

So I have a couple quick questions for the GKtech Roll Center Correction Kit:

First - Running a 17x9+23 wheel w/ 255 tires on it. I'm assuming that pretty much means that stock sheet metal on the front is a thing of the past for me going forward? Yay/Nay?

Second - Geometry wise do I need to worry about my steering if the RCC kit is the ONLY front geometry mod on the car? I'm running stock inner and outer tie rods, no rack spacers, and no additional bump steer correction.

[TheRealSy90]

Your inner tie rods will be too short with the Roll Center kit since they widen the front track so much. At the very least you'll want a passenger side rack extension and re-center the steering rack, and most likely longer inner tie rods.

[Motary]

Originally Posted by Sleepy_Steve

So I have a couple quick questions for the GKtech Roll Center Correction Kit:

First - Running a 17x9+23 wheel w/ 255 tires on it. I'm assuming that pretty much means that stock sheet metal on the front is a thing of the past for me going forward? Yay/Nay?

Second - Geometry wise do I need to worry about my steering if the RCC kit is the ONLY front geometry mod on the car? I'm running stock inner and outer tie rods, no rack spacers, and no additional bump steer correction.

Will need overfenders or lots of camber

[Black R]

So I have this dilemma:



Cliffs: 285/30/18 on 18x10 et+18 with a 25mm spacer and 7deg of caster via tension rods.

I think I could run a 15mm spacer without any issues.

Obviously I could run less caster, but I'd really prefer not to.

I know I can move the upper coilover mounting point inboard and weld longer ears on the lower mounting points so I won't have to run spacers.

I guess I can get caster via different camber plates up top and not at the tension rod...

[Black R]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Your inner tie rods will be too short with the Roll Center kit since they widen the front track so much. At the very least you'll want a passenger side rack extension and re-center the steering rack, and most likely longer inner tie rods.

What?

I haven't heard this before.

I thought they work with standard tie rods...

How do they widen the track?

I'm looking at my set and don't see anything to indicate widening track.

Here's a pertinent video showing the install - nothing about needing longer tie rods, nor widening of track:

http://youtu.be/8TLKmYaohjo

[jaysgottaredtop]

Originally Posted by Black R

How do they widen the track?

I'm looking at my set and don't see anything to indicate widening track.

They move the bottom of your knuckle out an inch.

Thus widening track.

The tie rod pickup point moves a little, but you'll have to test fit everything to confirm whether you need longer tie rods.

[derass]

Originally Posted by Black R

Here's a pertinent video showing the install - nothing about needing longer tie rods, nor widening of track:

Two things can be seen in that video:

1) Offset rack spacers are being used (circled in red). My Era-1 spacers added 42mm to the tie-rod length. Other manufacturers will be similar.

2) The ball-joint pickup is move some distance outward (2 parallel red lines). This increases the scrub radius; and therefore, track-width.