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Old 12-24-2014, 08:01 PM   #17671
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Is it normal for ignition timing in an sr20det, to drop to 0 degrees (TDC) when ever letting off of the throttle?

Say I'm idling at 900 rpm and ignition timing at 15btdc, then rev the engine to 3000rpm (timing going between 30-36 degrees) and then let the throttle go. Should the timing drop to 0 and then back 15btdc?
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:13 AM   #17672
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I need a new transmission mount.

Do solid ones cause too much noise or vibration? Or am I better off getting an OEM style one that is of a harder urethane?
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:41 AM   #17673
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I need a new transmission mount.

Do solid ones cause too much noise or vibration? Or am I better off getting an OEM style one that is of a harder urethane?
IMHO a solid transmission mount is 10x worse than solid engine mounts. Get Nismo.
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:56 PM   #17674
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Hi guys, small question here that i didn't wanna make a new thread for. So here it is.. today me and my brother were checking out my exhaust and were trying to see if we could Lower my 1995 s14 any more. As it sits, it's pretty high (17" rims and like a 2" ugly Gap inbetween tire/fender) it's fugly, and i can't comprehend how other s14's slam their car to where they have no wheel gap and their front bumper is almost touching the ground.

The question is.. how do you guys clear your Oem downpipe thing? mine sits lower than my cat and is like 3" off the ground.. am i missing some super kewl step to lowering my car with Oem down pipe? Please help, thank you.

edit: you can actually see my gap in my little avatar picture. My oem headers are what sit so low btw (idk what else to call the piping) thanks
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:59 PM   #17675
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S14 came with no radio. I have put in a pioneer double din. My question is I have no dash lights. Clock works. Dimmer switch is good. No blown fuses,and yes tail lights work as do the ac,heater control lights. On the harness adapter there are 2 wires not hooked up, one which says illumination the other says dimmer. Do one of those 2 wires need to be hooked up to the pioneer to complete the circuit?
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:16 PM   #17676
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I have a nagisa double lok rails. It's kind of rough to slide the seat back and forth. I would have to pull and push on the steering wheel for me to adjust the seat. Is this normal? Is it suppose to slide like the stock slider?
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:36 PM   #17677
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would anyone know why the temp guage on my cluster isnt working? it never worked when i bought the car. my speedo didnt work so i changed the cluster. the new cluster had a working speedo but the temp guage still didnt work. but about a month ago, while i was driving it started working but only for a few minutes. and it was just jumping all over the place. this was the first time it ever happened and the only time. so can someone help me out? car is a 91 KADE
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:00 AM   #17678
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Have you check the connections? It could be the sensor.. most people just add a senor and water temp gauge for accurate reading.
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:03 AM   #17679
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Have you check the connections? It could be the sensor.. most people just add a senor and water temp gauge for accurate reading.
no i havent checked anything yet. and youre talking about the coolant temp sensor right?
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:22 AM   #17680
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Yes. They get junky
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:49 AM   #17681
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would anyone know why the temp guage on my cluster isnt working? it never worked when i bought the car. my speedo didnt work so i changed the cluster. the new cluster had a working speedo but the temp guage still didnt work. but about a month ago, while i was driving it started working but only for a few minutes. and it was just jumping all over the place. this was the first time it ever happened and the only time. so can someone help me out? car is a 91 KADE
Check your coolant temp sensor and the connection. Mine stops working from time to time and its because my sensor is old as shit and the connection is very dirty. I really should just replace it but I just clean the connection and it keeps working.
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:12 PM   #17682
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Before you go buying a sensor, make sure its the coolant temperature SWITCH.

There is a coolant temp SENSOR and coolant temp SWITCH. One is for gauge cluster and one is for the ecu.

Just a heads up.

And you can get them at auto zone
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:22 PM   #17683
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-Bought an s14 sr
-Didn't come with a turbo
-got oem bb t28
-no banjo bolt for turbo oil feed, however it came with one in the block
-oil feed banjo bolt from the block doesn't screw into turbo
-threads look ok
Does the turbo have a different thread pitch banjo bolt from the block??
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:44 PM   #17684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wurley View Post
-Bought an s14 sr
-Didn't come with a turbo
-got oem bb t28
-no banjo bolt for turbo oil feed, however it came with one in the block
-oil feed banjo bolt from the block doesn't screw into turbo
-threads look ok
Does the turbo have a different thread pitch banjo bolt from the block??
im not saying this to be a smart ass, im saying it because im trying to save you a huge headache... just go and purchase some S14/S15 based steel/nylon braided lines from FRSport or Enjuku.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...FQphfgodsKQASw
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:56 PM   #17685
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Went full retard and forgot i had another turbo. The answer is No if anyone is wondering. The banjo bolts on the block and turbo have different threads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13 View Post
im not saying this to be a smart ass, im saying it because im trying to save you a huge headache... just go and purchase some S14/S15 based steel/nylon braided lines from FRSport or Enjuku.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...FQphfgodsKQASw
Didn't answer my question, but thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:31 AM   #17686
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can anyone link me a site where i can buy Tein 350Z (Z33) inner tie rods for my s13. im having trouble finding them
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:31 AM   #17687
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can anyone link me a site where i can buy Tein 350Z (Z33) inner tie rods for my s13. im having trouble finding them
http://www.splparts.com
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:45 PM   #17688
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can i get someone's opinion on these lower control arms for my s13 ?http://www.frsport.com/FRSPORT-1128-...-R_p_2246.html

Well it help with a smoother riding experience or should I get a different brand like moog?
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:54 PM   #17689
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Those are the same thing as moog, but more expensive and without a brand name attached. The moog balljoints are good stuff.


You are really overthinking this.
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:59 PM   #17690
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my bad. just want my suspension to be not so shitty
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:02 PM   #17691
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can i get someone's opinion on these lower control arms for my s13 ?http://www.frsport.com/FRSPORT-1128-...-R_p_2246.html

Well it help with a smoother riding experience or should I get a different brand like moog?
i bought those 6 months ago... was a night and day difference. cleared up 90% of my front end slop (the rest was taken care of when i changed out my tie rods + tie rod ends for brand new Tein units).

anything is better than 20+ year old ball joints, control arms and bushings!

however, id HEAVILY recommend you order 2 brand nuts + bolts for the lower control arms. reason being is that the insides if the bushings have a metal sleeve that likes to rust to the bolt. if this has occurred, you will have to cut the bolt out with an angle grinder... and i speak from personal experience. nissan sells the nuts and bolts brand new for like $14 a set.
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:07 PM   #17692
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The moog are $35/ea. I had an frsport balljoint fail within 6 months of install a while back. Might as well go rockauto if you want generic flca with new balljoint and bushing.
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:08 PM   #17693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13 View Post
i bought those 6 months ago... was a night and day difference. cleared up 90% of my front end slop (the rest was taken care of when i changed out my tie rods + tie rod ends for brand new Tein units).

anything is better than 20+ year old ball joints, control arms and bushings!

however, id HEAVILY recommend you order 2 brand nuts + bolts for the lower control arms. reason being is that the insides if the bushings have a metal sleeve that likes to rust to the bolt. if this has occurred, you will have to cut the bolt out with an angle grinder... and i speak from personal experience. nissan sells the nuts and bolts brand new for like $14 a set.
awesome thanks for the advice! so whats the deal with my suspension creaking loud as hell when I turn the wheel? usually does it when i left parked over night. It eventually goes away after some driving but i can still kinda hear it.
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Old 12-29-2014, 05:57 PM   #17694
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Will there be an issue with using s13 rlca and uprights on an s14? I've searched and the threads that come up only talk about z32 rlca. I'm thinking there wouldn't be an issue since s13 and s14 rear arms are interchangeable?
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:23 AM   #17695
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Can anyone shed some light on whether the heater core lines are accessible in an S13 with a non-VVTI 1JZ swapped into it with the stock twin turbos? I've read briefly in the 2JZ swap thread that people have trouble running heater lines with factory twins on a 2JZ but do you run into that same problem with the 1JZ swap?
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:37 AM   #17696
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Will there be an issue with using s13 rlca and uprights on an s14? I've searched and the threads that come up only talk about z32 rlca. I'm thinking there wouldn't be an issue since s13 and s14 rear arms are interchangeable?
S13 RLCA are shorter and have a different angle to them. There is a reason people swap to an S14 subframe.
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Old 12-30-2014, 01:39 PM   #17697
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Question

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S13 RLCA are shorter and have a different angle to them. There is a reason people swap to an S14 subframe.
Well I'm swapping a s14 subframe into my s13 but the s14 RLCA's are in bad shape and my s13 ones are in good shape so I wanted to save money and time by using my s13 ones.
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:18 PM   #17698
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s15 steering wheel

Igot a s15 silvia steering wheel for my s13se and notice the horn set up is different. Any tips on how to make the horn work? Thanks
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Old 12-31-2014, 12:29 PM   #17699
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When I am driving or drifting (most of the time) my motor cuts out after about 4k RPM's, throttle stops working and when it drops to 0 RPM's my throttle starts working again. This doesn't happen all the time but most of the time. My father told me to clean the MAF and see if that solves the problem. What else could it be if I do not have a bad or dirty MAF? 😆
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:20 AM   #17700
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When I am driving or drifting (most of the time) my motor cuts out after about 4k RPM's, throttle stops working and when it drops to 0 RPM's my throttle starts working again. This doesn't happen all the time but most of the time. My father told me to clean the MAF and see if that solves the problem. What else could it be if I do not have a bad or dirty MAF? 😆
You just described dirty MAF, fouled fuel filter, clogged injectors, and worn up/down stream O2 sensors. Where ya gonna start?
Clean MAF
Replace Fuel Filter
Run test, if fine, problem fixed
If not fine, sensors are cheaper than injectors...maybe
Run test
If not fine, suck it up and replace injectors

If you have a ECU code breaker, see what codes come up and if you can, correct the bad part/s

The bottom line, though, is these are all systems in the car that are ~20 years old and probably haven't been replaced at all during their service life
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