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Old 04-12-2011, 01:04 PM   #1
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Stock Metal Pimping

I've been looking for the past few days for threads on stretching stock metal to it's limit. But there isn't much on here.

Seeing Drifting-pedobear's post reminded me about this. I've done some extra smedium pulls/rolls, but Im looking for some extreme ones and some tips on how it was done. Im not looking for sectioned and rewelded fenders though. Just straight sweat and anger applied to stock metal.

Tips/Tricks/Pics??



My small pull/flare



Looking for methods/tips involving the least amount of paint repair/body work possible. I know that hard though.
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:07 PM   #2
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Did with a bat, a torch, and a noob in the driver seat that doesn't know how to drive stick.



Small pull enough to tuck 18x10 +14.
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Nothing says, 'I'm broke and still trying', like aftermarket steelies.
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:09 PM   #3
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Nico your car done yet? I need to see you at the track sir.

My drivers side always comes out better because I can hang out the door and hold the jack handle while I drive.
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:12 PM   #4
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Holding jack handle out the window is lulz.

Me and Jonny have been trying to get our vehicles finished for a minute trying to get to the track! I'm doing it slow(er) since I'm looking for a new place. All I need to do is paint my shit and I'll be set.
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wh0aitznic0 -- has or had a shocker sticker on his car at one point, is asian with a gooey white center

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Nothing says, 'I'm broke and still trying', like aftermarket steelies.
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Old 04-13-2011, 04:39 PM   #5
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Been looking for some good info on this for a while! Tryin to fit an 18x11 -16 on stock body without 10° of negative camber
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:15 AM   #6
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You are limited by the inner fender metal. You will only be able to do so much without cutting it out.

This is from before I did that:



17X11 -1 with ~-3 camber...and significant rubbing.

Now I've cut it out and pulled it way further, and have -1.4 deg of camber and zero rubbing





Up front I've got some 17X10 -18s and -2.7 deg:



Its taken some serious hammer work, and I need to do more.




To get the original pull I used lots of force (think football defensive line force) with a fender roller and I moved the head up higher in the wheel well to get the maximum clearance. You just have to keep cranking on it, and if you run out of thread on the roller you can just use some bolt on spacers to get more leverage.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:19 AM   #7
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I was waiting for you to comment on this haha. Im interested in this topic as well for future reference.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:20 AM   #8
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Hey knoopbro, are you running stock front tubs?
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Nothing says, 'I'm broke and still trying', like aftermarket steelies.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:25 AM   #9
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omg thanks obeewon for asking this. i am definitely going to cut out the inner fender metal. probably gonna weld in a trailer fender waay up in there. (knoop's method/idea)
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:43 AM   #10
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Hey knoopbro, are you running stock front tubs?
Nope, my front fender tubs look like this:



As you can see, the upper fender arm thingy has been trimmed.



Plasma cutters are awesome:






Rear fender tub action should be taking place tomorrow/fri/sat.
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Old 04-14-2011, 01:38 AM   #11
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That's really swell.

Alas, I don't have the technology or the steady hands to pull off a procedure like that. So ha! Peace.
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Nothing says, 'I'm broke and still trying', like aftermarket steelies.
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:03 AM   #12
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Over-pulled fenders is a recipe for future regret.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:38 AM   #13
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Thanks Knoop! What are you going to do to seal off the inner fender though? I dont want water and grime or smoke getting in there on me.

Positive imagined reps to you my friend.
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:29 AM   #14
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I have a trailer fender I am cutting up and am going to weld back in, and I'll probably use some seam sealing or great stuff to fill it in from the chassis side, just to make sure I don't have smoke and shit coming in the cabin.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:26 AM   #15
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Stock body king.

Ima drop my slab off at your house mmmk?
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:08 AM   #16
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Me and my bro did something similar to 95ka-turbo's when we were rolling my rear fenders. Instead of removing alot of material we made relief cuts along the inner fender. This allowed for an easy roll/ pull and sealing it up should be pretty simple after I attempt to fit my 18x12 -13 back there. So far the roll I did was with my mb's and I believe 30-40mm of spacer. We also used 3/4 inch electrical conduit and phone books for the roll/pull. Here is a pick of how they came out so far. I will take some pics of the inner fender to show the relief cuts tonight.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:25 PM   #17
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Wow. I didn't realize you guys were brothers. Cars looked good April 2nd.

Anxious to see these relief cuts.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:28 PM   #18
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Wow. I didn't realize you guys were brothers. Cars looked good April 2nd.

Anxious to see these relief cuts.

LOL! He is my brother from another mother. Thanks homie! Hope to see you at some CL events soon. Pics of fenders to come
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:35 PM   #19
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that shit is going to look horrible to fit those wheels.

goodruck.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:46 PM   #20
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Did you not remember my car?? haha
18x11+11, 245/35's. I'm at -1.8 camber. And the drivers side is pulled enough to run a 18x12 with low offsets.... I was VERY surprised at far it came out.













Now granted, I did rip the seam welds or whatever they're called inside the wells. I need to fix that haha. But I think I'm about to buy overs.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:03 PM   #21
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So I had some free time so I pulled the wheel off and snapped a shot or two.

Here's the front of the well.


And the back side. It isn't completed yet and we were debating spray foam in there or adding material to fill it up. Since it's gonna get paint it may get welded.


But it still needs to come out more to fit the 18x12 -13. That or finally install the rear uppers and camber more. The car is still on stock arms. Lol


From pulling mine with a 18x9.5 spaced to a -5et and a 245-40 tire with no cutting and getting it to here fitting his wheel on my car.


To his pull with the cuts made pulling it with a 18x9.5 spaced to -15 with a 235-40 tire, his 12s should be able to fit after we can seat the tires and can actually roll it with them. (been trying for a while, gotta make a second cheater tank and try that. Fire hasn't been working for us)


I'm sure once we get them on one of us will post up.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:44 PM   #22
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Hot Fire post right there brah!
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:37 PM   #23
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Me and my bro did something similar to 95ka-turbo's when we were rolling my rear fenders. Instead of removing alot of material we made relief cuts along the inner fender. This allowed for an easy roll/ pull and sealing it up should be pretty simple after I attempt to fit my 18x12 -13 back there. So far the roll I did was with my mb's and I believe 30-40mm of spacer. We also used 3/4 inch electrical conduit and phone books for the roll/pull. Here is a pick of how they came out so far. I will take some pics of the inner fender to show the relief cuts tonight.
Off topic, but your car looks almost exactly like mine will look in 2 weeks after paint is done.... Weird.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:50 AM   #24
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Off topic, but your car looks almost exactly like mine will look in 2 weeks after paint is done.... Weird.

Cool story bro!

Are you painting you car blue with a white kit? or referring to the the black one?
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:23 AM   #25
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seeing some of this work makes me feel a lot better about mine lol.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:53 AM   #26
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seeing some of this work makes me feel a lot better about mine lol.

Pics please!

This is for info on pulling and rolling stock metal.

Lets see it!
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:22 AM   #27
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Slightly off topic:

I wish there was a way not to bang the paint all up when doing this. I've used heat, tape, combo of both, a bat etc etc...but never quite was able to know the 'limit' of pushing metal until the paint would crack.

Anyone else have suggestions on this?
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:27 AM   #28
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You just have to heat it up until it hurts to touch it, then the paint won't crack. Unless your paint is just in terrible condition.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:48 AM   #29
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You just have to heat it up until it hurts to touch it, then the paint won't crack. Unless your paint is just in terrible condition.
I did that with my car and my little matco heat gun, but on other cars I'm always so apprehensive, as I never know the actual condition of their shit haha
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:24 PM   #30
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Here is my pull before I went to over fenders. Broke the inner metal doing it though

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