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Old 06-07-2017, 08:30 AM   #21121
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Originally Posted by hatch4life View Post
Pulled the battery out of my brothers car to test it and same thing.. so I know it's not the battery.. checked all fuses are fine everything is plugged in and grounded correctly...
I had a similar issue last year when I picked up my S14. Battery had been relocated to the trunk & after sitting for years, was toast. So I took the one out of my daily S13 which is still in the stock location. S14 wouldn't turn over, WTF? Put it back into the S13. Starts right up. So back into the S14 it went & out came the big battery charger. Threw it into 100A Engine Start to put some extra juice through the battery & she turned over.

Why the S13 would start & run but the S14 wouldn't is beyond me. My only guess was a voltage drop some how from how the previous owner relocated the battery ie, how he ran the wires/connections & such?
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:42 AM   #21122
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I had a similar issue last year when I picked up my S14. Battery had been relocated to the trunk & after sitting for years, was toast. So I took the one out of my daily S13 which is still in the stock location. S14 wouldn't turn over, WTF? Put it back into the S13. Starts right up. So back into the S14 it went & out came the big battery charger. Threw it into 100A Engine Start to put some extra juice through the battery & she turned over.

Why the S13 would start & run but the S14 wouldn't is beyond me. My only guess was a voltage drop some how from how the previous owner relocated the battery ie, how he ran the wires/connections & such?
I appreciate the response, but it doesn't explain why just the headlights and fuel pump will work, I thought maybe the power cable is scraping somewhere along the chassis since it's tucked, but I am getting 12.6 volts from battery as well as from the power distributor
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:03 AM   #21123
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I appreciate the response, but it doesn't explain why just the headlights and fuel pump will work, I thought maybe the power cable is scraping somewhere along the chassis since it's tucked, but I am getting 12.6 volts from battery as well as from the power distributor
Same thing here... Headlights, 4 ways, blinkers, fuel pump, ECU, gauges etc all turned on. But the starter itself would not turn over.
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Old 06-07-2017, 11:43 AM   #21124
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Originally Posted by hatch4life View Post
I appreciate the response, but it doesn't explain why just the headlights and fuel pump will work, I thought maybe the power cable is scraping somewhere along the chassis since it's tucked, but I am getting 12.6 volts from battery as well as from the power distributor
Your other accessories don't turn on at all?

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Old 06-07-2017, 12:45 PM   #21125
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Originally Posted by hatch4life View Post
I appreciate the response, but it doesn't explain why just the headlights and fuel pump will work, I thought maybe the power cable is scraping somewhere along the chassis since it's tucked, but I am getting 12.6 volts from battery as well as from the power distributor
How are your ground cables? Do you still have the cable going from the intake manifold to the battery tray still in place, or did you remove that one? What gauge is your power wire? In the power distributor, did you connect the old positive clamp wire, along with the wires to the fuse box?
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Old 06-07-2017, 06:30 PM   #21126
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What do you guys use to plug up this pipe?

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Old 06-07-2017, 06:33 PM   #21127
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Quote:
Your other accessories don't turn on at all?
nope nothing, just the headlights (not even turn signals or H.L. motors) and the fuel pump will prime when I turn the key only other thing is the battery light comes on when I turn the key

Quote:
How are your ground cables? Do you still have the cable going from the intake manifold to the battery tray still in place, or did you remove that one? What gauge is your power wire? In the power distributor, did you connect the old positive clamp wire, along with the wires to the fuse box?
Ground cables are good, I lightly sanded all the grounds to ensure a clean connection, and took a soft wheel on my grinder to where they are connected to make sure it's metal on metal, and yes I still have the ground cable going from IM to chassis
Not sure what gauge the power cable is but it's huge I think it's 0 or 1
I took all the wires going to factory + terminal and put them in the distributor
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Old 06-07-2017, 06:40 PM   #21128
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I even temporarily removed the circuit breaker and distributor and just hardwired it to see if somehow they were bad but no dice
I'm gunnu go take a picture to post on here
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:02 PM   #21129
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:34 PM   #21130
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How is your alternator wiring done? Also check the main cabin 75A fuse

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Old 06-08-2017, 12:32 AM   #21131
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Quick question. I'm running Nismotronic on my KA-T. I have my wideband output run through the ecu so it monitors it. Now, the single wire oxygen sensor that was original on the motor was toast. The wire broke off right at the base and I couldn't fix it. Originally I figured since it's reading the wideband, I wouldn't need the stock O2. Is this the case or do I need to find a new one and install it before I get it on the dyno?
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Old 06-08-2017, 09:11 AM   #21132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoffman5982 View Post
Quick question. I'm running Nismotronic on my KA-T. I have my wideband output run through the ecu so it monitors it. Now, the single wire oxygen sensor that was original on the motor was toast. The wire broke off right at the base and I couldn't fix it. Originally I figured since it's reading the wideband, I wouldn't need the stock O2. Is this the case or do I need to find a new one and install it before I get it on the dyno?
If you haven't already, I'd post on here to contact John or some of the other nismotronic "guru's"...

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Old 06-08-2017, 09:58 AM   #21133
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Can anyone confirm for me that maxima tie rod ends are in fact 14mm? I bought moog S14 ones and they are 12mm thin ones like the S13. I got P2M inners that are thick, if I buy Maxima outers I should be alright?
Bump, need to order soon and I don't feel like taking the risk after being told that S14's should be thicker
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:05 AM   #21134
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Can anyone confirm for me that maxima tie rod ends are in fact 14mm? I bought moog S14 ones and they are 12mm thin ones like the S13. I got P2M inners that are thick, if I buy Maxima outers I should be alright?
Sounds like they sent you the wrong ones.

S13s are 12mm.
S14s and Maximas (and a bunch of other Nissans) are 14mm.

Source: am using a combo of S14 and Maxima tie rods, but I've long since forgotten which was outer/innner, or what year Maxima I asked for.
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Old 06-14-2017, 12:57 AM   #21135
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Are there any visual cues to tell the difference between the 220hp SR20DET notch top and the 250hp SR20DET notch top?

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Old 06-14-2017, 01:00 AM   #21136
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Whoops, double post. In the wrong thread at that.

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Old 06-15-2017, 01:24 AM   #21137
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To have the z32 e brake setup on a s13 do you HAVE to have N/A z32 hubs or will s14 hubs work?
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:52 AM   #21138
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To have the z32 e brake setup on a s13 do you HAVE to have N/A z32 hubs or will s14 hubs work?


Read this:

s13 to 5lug + z32 swap help?
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:44 AM   #21139
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Thank you! I did a quick search but I obviously had to dig a bit deeper. Thank you again.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:39 PM   #21140
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Have a question for the SR gurus out there I have a stri dsd tach gauge just wondering what do I need to do to make that work, I've tried the rpm signal but the tach doesn't read that signal I also read the cas 180 signal pin 30 would work? As I don't want to mess with my ecu could anyone confirm if that info is true m.


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Old 06-22-2017, 02:42 PM   #21141
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What do you guys use to plug up this pipe?
Find a local welder and throw him like 20bucks to cut it off and weld it shut and never worry about it again.
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:54 PM   #21142
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:52 AM   #21143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoffman5982 View Post
Quick question. I'm running Nismotronic on my KA-T. I have my wideband output run through the ecu so it monitors it. Now, the single wire oxygen sensor that was original on the motor was toast. The wire broke off right at the base and I couldn't fix it. Originally I figured since it's reading the wideband, I wouldn't need the stock O2. Is this the case or do I need to find a new one and install it before I get it on the dyno?
If it's tuned to use the wideband then no you won't need narrowband
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:59 AM   #21144
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Have a question for the SR gurus out there I have a stri dsd tach gauge just wondering what do I need to do to make that work, I've tried the rpm signal but the tach doesn't read that signal I also read the cas 180 signal pin 30 would work? As I don't want to mess with my ecu could anyone confirm if that info is true m.


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http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/8720...stall-on-sr20/ For tach adapter installation.

You may be able to use pin 30 but it all depends on of that gauge can read squarewave or if it's voltage based
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:14 AM   #21145
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http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/8720...stall-on-sr20/ For tach adapter installation.



You may be able to use pin 30 but it all depends on of that gauge can read squarewave or if it's voltage based


Cody you da man I did some more research and I stumbled on the whole voltage based tach nonsense lol .. plot thickens


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Old 06-23-2017, 01:51 PM   #21146
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Got an issue with my redtop sr in my s13, it's dying at idle in traffic and cranks but wont start back up again, it will also die under load in gear while driving and all of a sudden I don't have any gas pedal response but it will restart if I kick start it while still rolling. Normally I wouldn't ask and do my own research and poke around under the hood but I'm at work the next 3 days all day with zero time to really look anything up and I'd just like some second opinions on what I should look for and investigate when I do get some time to take a look.
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:18 AM   #21147
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Does anyone know if s13 popup front fenders still available from Nissan? I've seen some sites that show discontinued
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Old 06-25-2017, 03:53 PM   #21148
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

My damn key wont come out of the ignition on my s13. Its a new key switch and everything. It was coming out just fine until i got the project running and it got electric power through the switch. I was thinking that it might have something to do with the car being an auto to manual swap, but the car runs fine and the wiring specialties harness is supposed to have everything covered.

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Old 06-25-2017, 04:02 PM   #21149
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My damn key wont come out of the ignition on my s13. Its a new key switch and everything. It was coming out just fine until i got the project running and it got electric power through the switch. I was thinking that it might have something to do with the car being an auto to manual swap, but the car runs fine and the wiring specialties harness is supposed to have everything covered.

Any ideas?


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Is there a button on your ignition cylinder? Should be black and on the top portion of it. Push it then turn the key counter clockwise.


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Old 06-25-2017, 05:28 PM   #21150
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Is there a button on your ignition cylinder? Should be black and on the top portion of it. Push it then turn the key counter clockwise.


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Ya there is, but it wont go in all the way


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