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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 11-05-2016, 12:02 AM   #1
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Rust issues in engine bay

Hey so I got some rust issues on my 240 that I am not familiar with.

And was wondering what the best way to go about dealing with these issues.



Rust on hood bumper on wheel well







Rust above frame rail on wheel well area, will take a better pic tomorrow


I was thinking tubing it but not sure how to make it structurally sound?

Updated the pics other side looks worse and seems to be painted over

Last edited by DurtyD; 11-05-2016 at 06:15 PM..
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Old 11-05-2016, 12:35 AM   #2
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Need better pics. Looks like just surface rust.
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:19 AM   #3
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Nah those pics are fine. For the first spot, you can just hit it with a wire brush and hit it with self etching primer if it's just surface rust. Then run a bead of seam sealer along the joint.

On the lower part, you're gonna need to clean up that paint and shit and see what's underneath. That part usually rusts because people's brake lines leak and it eats away at the paint. Water gets in and eats the metal. My car had rust there, check my build thread and you'll see how I repaired it. You need to cut the metal out and weld a new section in.

No, a tube front is not a viable solution for this LOL.
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Old 11-05-2016, 02:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liftedtruckstyle View Post
Nah those pics are fine. For the first spot, you can just hit it with a wire brush and hit it with self etching primer if it's just surface rust. Then run a bead of seam sealer along the joint.

On the lower part, you're gonna need to clean up that paint and shit and see what's underneath. That part usually rusts because people's brake lines leak and it eats away at the paint. Water gets in and eats the metal. My car had rust there, check my build thread and you'll see how I repaired it. You need to cut the metal out and weld a new section in.

No, a tube front is not a viable solution for this LOL.
I meant tubing the wheel wells, not a tube front end lol
and updated the pictures other side looks worse


So you just welded a strip on the bottom? I thought the strut tower was supposed to have some structural integrity?
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Old 11-05-2016, 02:59 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by liftedtruckstyle View Post
Nah those pics are fine. For the first spot, you can just hit it with a wire brush and hit it with self etching primer if it's just surface rust. Then run a bead of seam sealer along the joint.

On the lower part, you're gonna need to clean up that paint and shit and see what's underneath. That part usually rusts because people's brake lines leak and it eats away at the paint. Water gets in and eats the metal. My car had rust there, check my build thread and you'll see how I repaired it. You need to cut the metal out and weld a new section in.

No, a tube front is not a viable solution for this LOL.

Well I updated the pictures the other side of the sturt tower looks worse

and I was talking about tubing the wheel wells not a tube front end lol

You just welded a strip along the bottom? I thought the strut tower down provides some structural integrity to the car?
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:01 PM   #6
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well i updated pictures, looks alot worse in these ones.


I was talking about tubin' the wheel wells not tube front end lol

I thought the strut tower provides some structural integrity of the car though?
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Old 11-07-2016, 04:20 AM   #7
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What's the overall car look like...
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:45 PM   #8
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What's the overall car look like...









Well here is how the rear frame rails look... not too sure what to think about it... other than that it has an under coat and not too bad and it also has a wide body....


Drift slut or should I try and tube rear end the bitch?
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:31 AM   #9
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Dont tub unles you need the space for wheels or other mods... prep and paint the rust areas and keep it moving
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Old 11-12-2016, 11:14 AM   #10
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you dont think the rust on the frame rails are bad?
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Old 11-12-2016, 11:45 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by rawgarage View Post
Dont tub unles you need the space for wheels or other mods... prep and paint the rust areas and keep it moving

You dont think the rust on the frame rails are bad?

And the wheels are hitting the wheel wells in the pic too lol
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:41 AM   #12
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the strut top plates are rusting from the inside as they sit ontop of a seam.
drill out the spot welds to remove the plates then hit the surface with a wire wheel in a grinder till the rust has gone.

use the old plates to make a template to fab up some new plates then weld them back on.

rust down the inner wing to chassis rail seam is quite common. use a knife to cut out the seam sealer and see how bad the rust is, you may just get away with splashing some rust remover gel over it.
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Old 11-15-2016, 11:41 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by gaz_moose View Post
the strut top plates are rusting from the inside as they sit ontop of a seam.
drill out the spot welds to remove the plates then hit the surface with a wire wheel in a grinder till the rust has gone.

use the old plates to make a template to fab up some new plates then weld them back on.

rust down the inner wing to chassis rail seam is quite common. use a knife to cut out the seam sealer and see how bad the rust is, you may just get away with splashing some rust remover gel over it.

Thanks for the heads up, well the inner wing is a lot worse than it looks cause it was sprayed over on top of what you see. Doesnt it provide some structural integrity of the car? When ever I see people doing tubs they never really replace that spot?
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:22 AM   #14
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the inner wing rust is common in the UK, people tend to just cut it out and seam weld in new steel. sod doing tubs if you don't have too.
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:43 AM   #15
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New chassis is in order. If you have rust issues there, you have it every where.
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaz_moose View Post
the inner wing rust is common in the UK, people tend to just cut it out and seam weld in new steel. sod doing tubs if you don't have too.
that is true if i plan on using the 12'' rears i should tub the rear end lol
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:53 PM   #17
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New chassis is in order. If you have rust issues there, you have it every where.
well well see what the bead blaster says once i take off the under coating on the frame rails...
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
New chassis is in order. If you have rust issues there, you have it every where.
Hahaha!

In the Midwest this car would be advertised for sale as rust free lol

Easily fixable for sure, if your gonna work on it yourself just do a lot of research, good luck
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:40 AM   #19
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Hahaha!

In the Midwest this car would be advertised for sale as rust free lol

Easily fixable for sure, if your gonna work on it yourself just do a lot of research, good luck
It's repairable, absolutely. It's not worth it though. Find a new S-chassis or import a JDM version with fewer miles and factory turbo'd setup and enjoy.
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:53 PM   #20
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not worth it?

ive seen plenty of jdm cars (in person) with more rust than this. the expression 'better the devil you know' springs to mind.
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:59 PM   #21
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Eh, I've fixed worse.
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:10 PM   #22
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^ oh that's not worth it at all....lol
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:18 PM   #23
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And that's just the driver's floorpan and frame rail. I've already replaced most of the engine bay and cowl. Still have to patch one quarter panel, replace the other one, the passenger floor, and the fenders. Thinking on just selling the thing as I don't have the time or money anymore.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:44 PM   #24
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It's repairable, absolutely. It's not worth it though. Find a new S-chassis or import a JDM version with fewer miles and factory turbo'd setup and enjoy.
the thing is I have a mint s13 silvia.... lol
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:48 PM   #25
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not worth it?

ive seen plenty of jdm cars (in person) with more rust than this. the expression 'better the devil you know' springs to mind.
Best fucking saying dude, I am gonna take this to the grave hah
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:50 PM   #26
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And that's just the driver's floorpan and frame rail. I've already replaced most of the engine bay and cowl. Still have to patch one quarter panel, replace the other one, the passenger floor, and the fenders. Thinking on just selling the thing as I don't have the time or money anymore.
I admire your determination and trying to bring life to what people would abandon

ill def be thinking about you when I work on this 240 <3
no homo haha
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:04 AM   #27
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I might never finish it. I've got two other projects, 97 s14 and this.
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:13 AM   #28
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That ford is bad ass what is it?
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:24 AM   #29
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1967 Fairlane. Running a 289 and auto. It was my wife's grandmother's car, bought new at a family dealership in Kentucky. Then passed down to my father in law, then to my wife when she was in high school. She drove it for a bit in college, then parked it. I resurrected it from a 12 yr nap. Only has 55k miles on it and little to no rust.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:16 AM   #30
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Seems like it would be a perfect car to go on road trips during the summer time!
But almost too clean haha
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