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01-30-2017, 10:05 AM | #1 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NY (845)
Age: 31
Posts: 951
Trader Rating: (11)
Feedback Score: 11 reviews
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Fully Built SR20 S13, Type X, Not Clean
$10,000 OPEN TO OFFERS
Hello, I am looking to sell/trade my S13. Bought it stock. Owned it for 2.5 years. It wasn't driven much for the first year as most of that time I was away at college unable to work on it, or saving for parts. I am starting grad school for Phyiscal Therapy next year. School is important to me too, and I need to be a responsible adult so I may sell this. I will upload pictures of the rust when I get a chance to go under the car. I can text pictures of other imperfections if you are interested. Sorry the pictures are blown out. they looked fine on my phone. Chassis has 180k miles. Everything else has 2000 miles as i bought and installed it all. I have only driven it for 2000 miles. 1000 miles was for the break in of the built engine (with joe gibbs break in oil). The other 1000 miles was my own daily driving. I daily drive it now, even though I have a seperate daily car to drive. Car was put on the road August 25th 2015. It was built with reliability as the main purpose, and was meant to be the most solid daily driver/weekend track car. R/T tuning tuned it to 360whp and 360 ft lbs torque on 19psi with a gsp td06 20g turbo. It was an extremely conservative and reliable tune. I have recently made a custom t3 twin scroll top mount setup and switched to a Holset Hy35 as a coping mechanism for losing a loved one. Needed something to do to get my mind off of it. I have not tuned for it yet. Assuming it should be close to 500whp now. At 14psi it outputs the same power as when tuned before. The car was built with to be my vision of the perfect daily s13 that can rip at the track. It does so, however the car is not clean. I have not gotten around to the details, so the aero/body needs some tlc. Chassis is rusty like every other northeast car. If you are interested be aware the car is not clean, and it is rusty. I want to emphasis the car is not clean. Do not expect a show car, or oem exterior quality. It functions amazingly, but it looks ratty. However I have taken everything apart so you will not have to deal with rusted/seized hardware. Engine: Built redtop sr20det 9:1 compression 86.5mm JE pistons/ Connecting Rods acl bearings/thrust washers polished/balanced crankshaft s14 oil pickup tube circuit sports oversized baffled oil pan (tomei design except they made a groove for rtv) GK Tech Catch Can apexi metal head gasket arp head/main studs ported/polished head bc 272 cams supertech valve springs, retainers and brass guides Holset Hy35 Turbo Turbo XS top mount t3 twinscroll manifold tial mvr 44mm wastegate cx racing fmic apexi intake z32 maf nismo 740cc injectors P2M 340 fuel pump gk tech fan/eccentric throttle wheel aluminum radiator samco radiator hose wiring specialties engine harness apexi power fc standalone with commander and data logger 3in exhaust with Varex cutout muffler with wireless remotes (sounds stock when closed. great on highway, when talking to passengers, and near cops) p2m halo ring Ran new fuel lines Transmisson/Drivetrain: b&m short throw shifter fidanza light flywheel clutchmasters fx400 clutch vlsd from 180sx with axles arp flywheel bolts circuit sports hardened pivot ball Replaced all seals/gaskets in transmission 100 miles ago DEI Heat shielding in transmission tunnel New clutch slave and master cylinder Brakes Wilwood 4 piston calipers with 2 piece rotors with track pads tucked brake lines in engine bay Ran new brake hardlines z32 rear brakes with Hawk Hp plus pads New z32 BMC Interior : new black carpet/mats 2 new carbon kevlar bucket seats nx1600 cluster momo monte carlo wheel bride shift boot/glovebox/center console speedhut oil pressure, aem afr gauge, PBM oil temp/fuel pressure gauge, and autometer boost gauge Alpine headunit blox 490 neo brush knob gauges are wired to a switch by the shifter/radio Sound deadening on floor and trunk Exterior oem kouki 180sx front bumper, fender extensions and tail lights, rep side skirts, rep rear valance, 30mm front overfenders, 55mm rearoverfenders Wrapped with Hexis Gloss Racing Green Suspension: bc racing type br coilovers isis pro traction arm/ ruca gsp gen2 toe arm noname tension rod pbm solid rear subframe bushings pbm tension rod/ flca combo bent not on car though New wheel bearings The car was a hicas model. i deleted the rear hica, and i kept the front steering rack because the hicas models have a quicker ratio Wheels: RPF1's Front's are 17x9.5 +18 with 8mm spacer to clear coilovers with 245/40/17 BFGoodrich Sport comp II Rears are 17x10 +15mm PBM spacers 255/40/17 Bridgestone pole position s04 CONS: -Car does not have the Ebrake cable hooked up currently. When I switched to the z32 rear setup, I got the cables, but never got around to hooking them up. I just park it in gear, but I intend to get around to attaching them. -car has gasoline smell. O ring for the fuel tank never seals fully. I've been told some sealant maybe needed to properly seal it. the smell doesn't bother me, so i haven't gotten around to touching that. i have a new o ring you can take -Car has rust. Its a 1993 Northeast car. it is what its is. Also the wrap/aero isn't the cleanest. The car needs some tlc to be a clean car -Car has slight oil leak from oil pan gasket. easy fix, i just don't feel like doing it in the cold weather -Crack in the middle of the windshield. bought the car with it. never got around to changing the glass yet Any questions, just let me know. Love the car. Built it to handle exactly how I wanted. Super tight, responsive, gripy, and massive power. Looks great. I just need to be an adult, otherwise I'd keep it to enjoy everyday and track on weekends. |
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