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Old 07-13-2017, 05:38 AM   #1
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Advice on s14

I managed to pick up a great deal on an s14 that has a Ka completely stock. It was sitting under a car cover for years that then got blown off and was exposed to the elements. It had no hood and the fuel rail was not on... and the cylinder 4 plug and wire were open and had standing water in them.
Obviously this is bad. Even without the motor it was a good deal...
Question. Best way salvage the ka. What parts are likely f-ed. Just curious where to start
Please don't flame
Thanks
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:42 AM   #2
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Friend bought a motor that had sand filling the plenum and missing cam caps. Vacuumed it out and didn't replace the caps it was the best running KA ever, no shit.

If it had standing water in the cylinders, it's f***ed.
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:09 AM   #3
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Is locked up? or does it turn over with a wrench? need to get the water out of the cylinder(s) first change the oil etc. If its locked up, spray a little PB plaster, kroil or something like that in the cylinders to see if the cylinders free up. worst case you'll have to find a new KA
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Old 07-13-2017, 09:13 AM   #4
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agreed, remove all 4 plugs, throw a bit of kroil or pb blaster in and see if you can rotate the engine with a wrench or breaker bar
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:52 AM   #5
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Hit a snag. Turns out there were 5 wasp nests in this car. Still working out that unforseen hurdle. Should I run cheap oil through it first and how long should I let the pb blaster sit other thing. It's an auto right now I have limited experience there. Will it be able to hand crank w that auto still on there in neutral
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:25 PM   #6
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Hit a snag. Turns out there were 5 wasp nests in this car. Still working out that unforseen hurdle. Should I run cheap oil through it first and how long should I let the pb blaster sit other thing. It's an auto right now I have limited experience there. Will it be able to hand crank w that auto still on there in neutral
Thanks
That's fine to run cheap oil to flush the engine. Let the pb blaster sit for a few minutes (2-5 minutes), set it in neutral and try to manually crank the engine. I believe the crank bolt is a 27mm (correct me if I am wrong). If possible, provide photos of the engine bay so we can have an idea.
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:38 PM   #7
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I will when I get my bee suit every time I start to mess w this car I get attacked. No jokke. So it's under a cover in driveway. I think im gonna drop a fogger grenade on this thing
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:51 PM   #8
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I will when I get my bee suit every time I start to mess w this car I get attacked. No jokke. So it's under a cover in driveway. I think im gonna drop a fogger grenade on this thing
Roll up the windows and drop a bomb, watch where you sit until you vacuum it up afterwards. You can still get stung.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:11 PM   #9
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I don't fucks with wasps, would have seriously called a junk yard right then.

Crank bolt is a 27mm. For oil, I run the $12 rotella with a wix filter on my track/street car. Have been for years. Just change it before every event (no odo because shit hud) and it has always worked great. Bottles come in 4qt jugs which fills a ka perfect. Doesn't get cheaper than that. You could also throw some mystery oil into the cylinders, I've heard of that freeing old locked up motors.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:13 PM   #10
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I would get a wrench on the crank bolt first though to see if it spins freely before pouring all this shit into the motor lol. Don't put all your strength into it, it should move with only a little force
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:06 PM   #11
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Standing water in cylinders...I highly doubt it will run if it dose it won't be worth a shit. I'd suck the water out,drain oil, soak the cylinder walls down with some pb and don't be cheap with it hose it down like your girl.trying to get all the way around the cylinder walls like 360* Motion keeping it high. Thow a cheep ass oil n filter in it and try to turn it by hand. I've seen good running motors that got pulled in set on shelf when let setting for years with out being spun over from time to time rings rust to walls n then brake when u go to turn them over for the first time. Spraying the walls down helps a lot! So that motor is pretty much fucked.I truly would not even mess with that ka just pull it out. Then the options are as big as your Wallet. If your on a budget and are handy Diy got tools and a place to work on it Sr20 swaps r cheap n can't get much easier. You could rebuild what u got for about the same or Just say fuck it smack that Ol so grate LSX in there. Rb if your purist kind of guy.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:30 PM   #12
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Yeah I am strongly considering a motor swap but every ka part is still in original position and original harness position. A ka low boost t28 setup that pushes 270 to wheels can be had with way less effort(2 jobs and a kid man). Can a ka w standing water be machined and builtlt w forged internals or is it a cast iron paperweight?
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:22 AM   #13
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There's a chance of being able to reuse the block for shore u might get Lucky and only need a hone, all depends on how much rust and pitting on the cylinder walls. Imo by the time u hone the block turn the crank to verify that's good that's a few hundred, you still need rods pistons rings bearings that's about a grand and u still got to go threw the head which can be done on the cheap. But them u need a t28 and a manifold and injectors and then some kind of management mine as well put a clutch in there too. S13 Sr go for 1500-1800 and all u need is a fuel pump just my thoughts.
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:04 PM   #14
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Put a bee suit on for safety and spray WD40 at the wasp nests, it should kill them. If you do try be cautious. Source: My pest control technician.

You can also try some Marvels mystery oil before you turn the engine over.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:58 AM   #15
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Brake parts cleaner drops wasps and any insect instantly. Not exaggerating.
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Old 07-20-2017, 06:29 PM   #16
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Update. Killed all the wasps. Fogger the garage. It's done.
Bad news. Pulled the plug and 7 quarts of water oil came out. No joke. I flushed it all out w oil(more water came out. I pb plastered the thing and now it's penetrating .... insert joke here.
The only reason I am up to tryin to nsave this and not go sr is that every accessory is all original and not hacked up at all. But its not looking good rught now
Thanks
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:15 PM   #17
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2nd follow up. Where are you guys sourcing sr20s for 1500 to 1800.
Thanks
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Old Yesterday, 12:31 AM   #18
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1500 dollar SR?

maybe its just me but...... i dont think so!
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Old Yesterday, 04:45 AM   #19
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Ok that's what i thought too but I am screwed on this long block so I got some decisions to make.
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Old Yesterday, 06:06 AM   #20
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More likely going to cost around 2200 for sr. Then if you don't want to do wiring you pay a premium there. Need intercooler set up, etc. Like someone else said, options are as deep as your wallet.
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S13 is a sporty garbage can.
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Old Yesterday, 06:07 AM   #21
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S13 Sr go for 1500-1800 and all u need is a fuel pump just my thoughts.
Whaaat? Where are you finding this deal?
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Old Yesterday, 08:03 AM   #22
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Ok that's what i thought too but I am screwed on this long block so I got some decisions to make.
you're not being very realistic

cars been sitting for years and you think you you can just start it up?

pull the motor and rebuild it -OR- pickup a good used motor and move on

this isnt roadkill. if you want this car to work, its going to take some time and money
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Old Yesterday, 08:17 AM   #23
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Ok. I knew this to be a long term build. The car is a 97 auto. So with the KA needing full rebuild and the other MT swap stuff I will need there are decisions to make. I was hoping it would turn just so I knew the block could be rebuilt. I am gonna pull it out this weekend and get a closer look at everything ( insert joke here) thanks for help
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Old Yesterday, 01:19 PM   #24
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S13 SR's can be found 1800 if you take a time machine back to 2010. They are only going up in price. If you did decide to go SR, I highly recommend spending a few hundred extra to go notchtop. But yeah, with all the swap parts you'll need, expect to spend $3500-4k minimum. If it were me, I'd source another KA and rebuild it. Even if you went forged internals you'll come out spending less and having a fresh motor capable of more power and, more importantly, significantly more torque than an SR.

That's just my opinion though. Not trying to start an SR vs KA debate. KA is simply the easier and cheaper option here
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Old Yesterday, 02:51 PM   #25
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I agree. No need for that debate. But yeah I will be goin w another ka if this one is fully seized. Rather have 280hp 280tq than 300 200.
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Old Yesterday, 04:44 PM   #26
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yeah but the KA is a terrible motor

they make great boat anchors though!
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