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Old 12-24-2008, 03:55 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cc0rd View Post
well, if gsxrjordan can build me a small ported box for a good price, i would want to go that route, but i know that ported boxes usually cost quite a bit more. i guess if you can get me a ported box for 1 12" that isn't too big but still is a good fit for my sub (air space/port frequency and all that stuff), i would buy one from you but if gsxrjordan can build me one for the same price or a little bit more i would prefer a custom built one...

i think the biggest issue that i'm not sure on right now is if my amp can be used to power just one of my subs.

custom boxes are hella tight man, and if you prefer one i would go with the other dood. but if you would like just a simple ported enclose the smallest one available is 1.8 cubic feet, 14"h x 17"d x 19"w. 3/4 mdf woof of course.
price is 34.99 plus tax bro.
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:17 PM   #182
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Its funny how post your audio setup has been turned into ask GSXRJJordan lol.
Call it a gift The gift of total threadjacking.

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custom boxes are hella tight man, and if you prefer one i would go with the other dood. but if you would like just a simple ported enclose the smallest one available is 1.8 cubic feet, 14"h x 17"d x 19"w. 3/4 mdf woof of course.
price is 34.99 plus tax bro.
That's huge for most modern 12" woofers - lots of the cheap woofers are designed to be run in 3/4ft^3 sealed, and ~1.25ft^3 ported boxes - and what port size (area, and depth)? Chances are, it's a big box with a mis-matched port, for SPL instead of SQ.

The box I was looking at for him would be about 1.6ft^3 total, tuned to 32hz with an F3 of 69Hz (pretty flat for 2 octaves each way). Have to keep vent size down, something like 2"x5"x16.5", or 3" round port x 11" (4" would have to be 20", which might be too long, plus that adds a lot of volume). I'd make it out of 1/2" birch and treat the inside with fiberglass resin, weighs 1/2 as much as 3/4" MDF.

Good price though
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:50 PM   #183
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what kinda sub is he even running? i never saw hahahhahaha

but yes the box is somewhat big for a 12 but it has been pretty good for the few subs that my friends have been using it for. most ppl buy it cus its cheap and the most common sub bought out here is teh kicker cvr comp. i actually just did a full setup in my friends 04 jeep with one 12" kicker and it wastn to shabby.
and yes i would prefer a custom build box over nething. then you can build it to the subs specs and all. actually thinking bout doing it for the 2 kenwoods i just ordered but not sure yet. my dad really wants to for his s13 tho. i think he wants to run two 12" rf t2's. i loved the RF 10" t1.
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:03 PM   #184
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which style alpine typeR?

I was wondering what style alpine 6.5" type R's everyone is fitting in the s13 front doors? is it the latest style with the really large tweeter enclosure spr-17c



or the older styles with lower tweeters?



i just want something simple to fit behind the factory door grills. i don't really want to mount external tweeters.
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:34 PM   #185
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What kind of sub enclosure is suited best with what music? I'm confused as to what kind of sound the different styles produce.
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:52 PM   #186
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HU: JVC Single din dvd player - KDAVX11
Front speakers: Rockford Forsgate Power series 6.5 Coax.
Rear speakers: Alpine type S 4x6.

Setup prettymuch blows. I need to amp the speakers to get the most out of them, and plan to run a single kicker 8" solobaric mounted in the side panel of the car. If I were to really spend enough money on it, I would run a Alpine PDX 5 amp, that way i will have only one amp to power everything, and I'd reaplace the type s's with something better. (I'm not going all out really, i want a bit more bass/richer sound, but dont want to comprimise weight/space.)
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Old 12-25-2008, 01:01 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkilburn View Post
What kind of sub enclosure is suited best with what music? I'm confused as to what kind of sound the different styles produce.

the common misconception is that ported boxes are best to get loud boomy bass (hip hop type bass) and sealed boxes are for best sound quality but with the correct box built specifically for the subwoofer, any box can have great sound quality and get good and loud (depending on the woofer).

bandpass enclosures are the best and the worst. if you have a subwoofer/bandpass enclosure built around each other, they can sound the best (from what i've heard). if you throw in a regular woofer into a pre-made bandpass box, it will sound like crap.

I remember a guy back in the day when i used to visit clubrsx audio subforums, there was a guy on there who went by the "bass mechanic" who built his own woofer and bandpass enclosure. he had 2 8" woofers getting louder than 2 15"s. Has anyone heard of him? As far as I know, he's out of the business now.
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Old 12-25-2008, 02:27 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost View Post
I was wondering what style alpine 6.5" type R's everyone is fitting in the s13 front doors? is it the latest style with the really large tweeter enclosure spr-17c

or the older styles with lower tweeters?

i just want something simple to fit behind the factory door grills. i don't really want to mount external tweeters.
The Type-R's are considered "alright" for retail crap - the thing about 6.5" in the S13 is that you'll have to run mounting rings to space them out, so you might as well position them to point to the opposite listener's head also ~ this helps even more when you're talking about coaxials like the 6.5" you posted. I believe the larger tweeter enclosure just lets you point it differently?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkilburn View Post
What kind of sub enclosure is suited best with what music? I'm confused as to what kind of sound the different styles produce.
94accord did a pretty good job explaining this ~ I explained the four types of mounts (infinite baffle, sealed, ported, then ported 6th order which is bandbass) earlier in the thread... The reason people like sealed boxes is because they're smaller, fairly idiot-proof to build, and below F3 (the frequency at which the speaker in that box is 3dB quieter than it's tuning frequency) they roll off at about 12dB/octave - this is cool because between 40hz and 50hz, most car cabins produce a 12dB/octave gain, so if you have a sealed box tuned around 40-50hz, the bass sounds pretty good.

The reason most people that know what they're doing like ported boxes is because you can tune the box for not only the speaker, but the car, and the type of response you want - ported boxes perform extremely well around their tuning frequency and about 3 octaves above, because both the speaker and the port are playing crisp bass notes. Below the tuning frequency, the speaker's power handling goes way down, so you have to be careful not to blow it.

For big SPL, tune around 40-45hz, for great SQ, tune closer to 30hz. Ported boxes will always be louder, and always be more efficient (above the tuning frequency) than sealed boxes - and as long as you follow some basic build guidelines, they sound just as good or better too!

Bandpass basically ports the back and front of the speaker, so you get more and more of the speaker's energy at a certain frequency converted to sound. They don't have the "snap" that sealed boxes have, and are huge (usually 2x-4x the size of a sealed box for the same woofer), which is why nobody interested in SQ builds them. They are the loudest though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drift_jdm View Post
HU: JVC Single din dvd player - KDAVX11
Front speakers: Rockford Forsgate Power series 6.5 Coax.
Rear speakers: Alpine type S 4x6.

Setup prettymuch blows. I need to amp the speakers to get the most out of them, and plan to run a single kicker 8" solobaric mounted in the side panel of the car. If I were to really spend enough money on it, I would run a Alpine PDX 5 amp, that way i will have only one amp to power everything, and I'd reaplace the type s's with something better. (I'm not going all out really, i want a bit more bass/richer sound, but dont want to comprimise weight/space.)
First, do not put a speaker in the side panel. That's some of the thinnest metal in the entire car, and you want to shake it with bass? Rattle, rattle!! Also, speakers pointed sideways will usually get two short reflections before you hear the notes, so it will never sound crisp. Point it back or up, it'll sound better.

Secondly, I only want to run one amp, but most 5ch amps blow (and the 6ch version of my amp is like $2500) - my solution? Ditch the rear speakers. They don't make that much sound anyway. Then you run a sweet 4ch, and bridge the rears for your sub. Done, and done - cheaper, more efficient (less power/heat), more trunk space, and did I mention that it's cheaper?
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Old 12-25-2008, 03:49 PM   #189
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^ you seem to be giving out good advice. any advice on a speaker setup for me. currently running this setup:

Enter text here.- Pioneer Headunit DEH-690UB
- Infinity 6.5" Speakers REF6022SI (Front)
- Infinity 6"x9" Speakers REF9622I (Rear)

Don't want to change the headunit, but I'm definitely considering upgrading the speakers.
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:12 AM   #190
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hey guys i recently got the following goodies? i guess you can call it, for christmas from my folks...

Sony Dual 12" Enclosed Ported Subwoofers - Model #: SON XSL120B5D (Buy the Sony Dual 12" Enclosed Ported Subwoofers and other Car subwoofers at circuitcity.com)
and
Sony ZR Series 2/1-Channel Amplifier - Model #: SON XMZR1252 (Buy the Sony ZR Series 2/1-Channel Amplifier and other Car amplifiers at circuitcity.com)

from CircuitCity and was just wondering if it's a bit much? a bit sucky? etc...I'm currently running a stock audio setup right now with the Clarions but I do have a Sony Xplod headunit (not sure which model) if that makes a difference. Would I need to upgrade my speakers also if I were to install all this stuff and get good quality? or can I just stick with my stock speakers? that damn woofer is insanely huge and might be a bit overkill for me but eh, I don't care much for weight reduction just as long as my ride can handle the extra 100 pounds of shit in the rear lol. thanks for any input guys
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:59 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamN View Post
^ you seem to be giving out good advice. any advice on a speaker setup for me. currently running this setup:

Enter text here.- Pioneer Headunit DEH-690UB
- Infinity 6.5" Speakers REF6022SI (Front)
- Infinity 6"x9" Speakers REF9622I (Rear)

Don't want to change the headunit, but I'm definitely considering upgrading the speakers.
Head unit's fine, you just need a 4ch amp to really figure out if you like how the Infinity's sound. The "reference" series is really their cheap-o speakers, Kappa Perfects are the good ones, but I would say just get a good quality ~50w x 4 amp (Arc Audio makes a KAR line that is a good value, TRU T4.65 would be the best, there's a ton of others) and some decent interconnects and it'll definitely make 'em sing.

Then you can decide if you like the metal tweeter sound or swap to some beefier components up front with a silk tweeter for a more natural sound. It's all preference, but it all starts with getting those speakers some decent power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by enkei2k View Post
hey guys i recently got the following goodies? i guess you can call it, for christmas from my folks...

Sony Dual 12" Enclosed Ported Subwoofers
and
Sony ZR Series 2/1-Channel Amplifier

from CircuitCity and was just wondering if it's a bit much? a bit sucky? etc...I'm currently running a stock audio setup right now with the Clarions but I do have a Sony Xplod headunit (not sure which model) if that makes a difference. Would I need to upgrade my speakers also if I were to install all this stuff and get good quality? or can I just stick with my stock speakers? that damn woofer is insanely huge and might be a bit overkill for me but eh, I don't care much for weight reduction just as long as my ride can handle the extra 100 pounds of shit in the rear lol. thanks for any input guys
I'm not sure what you're expecting here... you were given audio parts for gifts... will they sound like ass hooked up to your crap head unit? Yes. Will they sound like ass hooked up to a good head unit, witha good 4ch amp powering good components? Yes. Crappy subs powered by a crappy sub amp will never sound clean, but they will bump, and I'm sure that's what you're looking for, so install them and be happy... and say thanks to whoever got them for you!

When you're ready to upgrade, look for some good components (I've listed a bunch in this thread), a good 4ch amp, and dampen the doors and trunk. That will take the attention off the crappy subs, and then way later you can upgrade those if you want.
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:46 PM   #192
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Clarion 785 HU; Alpine 6.5 type X ref comps up front - tweet in the upper part of the door so i can hear. I'm old and only care about SQ since my ears are done from going loud in my younger days. I got two questions:
1. where are you guys mounting your amps? i don't have my Xtant 603 in now and plan on making something to stick in the trunk but would like to get some ideas.
2. i'm thinking of going subless and putting in some 6.5 "subs" like JL 6w0, CDTs, or TB W6-1139SI in the rear deck and run them "IB" as in no enclosure - instead of coax or something for rear fill. yeah, i know they're not real subs and don't go low like a true sub, but you guys know what i mean. opinions?
been here for over 4 yrs and this is my first post . . . what the hell . . .
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:51 PM   #193
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1. where are you guys mounting your amps? i don't have my Xtant 603 in now and plan on making something to stick in the trunk but would like to get some ideas.
On the sub box, or in a floating amp rack (1/2" square tubing is easy to cut/weld however you want, and it looks cool as balls).

Quote:
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2. i'm thinking of going subless and putting in some 6.5 "subs" like JL 6w0, CDTs, or TB W6-1139SI in the rear deck and run them "IB" as in no enclosure - instead of coax or something for rear fill. yeah, i know they're not real subs and don't go low like a true sub, but you guys know what i mean. opinions?
been here for over 4 yrs and this is my first post . . . what the hell . . .
A lot of people have been asking about this. It seems attractive, until you realize that the rear deck is not nearly sturdy/rigid enough to sound good - you'd be much better off using something like CDT EF-8's (small 8" subs) in a small box, bolted to the deck, and then damp the deck with something like dynamat. You'd still be better off just putting a regular sub in a regular box and putting it in the trunk, it just sounds better. 6.5" is too small for an IB setup (even my boxed/tuned CDT 6.5" don't extend down past 120hz with any volume).
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:42 AM   #194
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i have pioneer 6.5" 3 ways in the rear tray (coupe), kicker 6.5" 2ways in the door powered by a 400 watt rockford fosgate amp, running it through a pioneer head unit. and yes i bought the ebay speaker brackets for the front, but you could get some plastic or wood and trace the old speaker plastics to make your own.
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Old 07-11-2009, 04:34 AM   #195
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In the Kouki:

Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD 7-Inch In-Dash Double-DIN


Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch Components (Fronts)


Infinity Components, not sure model # (Rear)

JL Audio 8W7-3


JL Audio 500/1
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Old 07-11-2009, 04:37 AM   #196
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In the Kouki:

Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD 7-Inch In-Dash Double-DIN


Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch Components (Fronts)

Infinity Components, not sure model # (Rear)

JL Audio 8W7-3

JL Audio 500/1
Wow, bringin this thread back from the dead!

You run your components powered off the head unit? Gross. You'll enjoy much better quality sound from your front stage if you upgrade to a discrete amp instead of using the head unit's crappy amp.
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Old 07-11-2009, 04:41 AM   #197
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Wow, bringin this thread back from the dead!

You run your components powered off the head unit? Gross. You'll enjoy much better quality sound from your front stage if you upgrade to a discrete amp instead of using the head unit's crappy amp.
lol I know it could sound cleaner, but honestly, it sounds clean as fuck already...already spent too much on the tunes, more than I intended to at least....
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Old 07-11-2009, 10:37 AM   #198
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Clarion VX709 dbl din Dvd source unit, Zapco Reference series 1000.4 amp, Zapco Reference series (blue) 6.5" components, Alpine 10" type R sub.













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Old 07-11-2009, 11:29 AM   #199
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Old 07-11-2009, 12:00 PM   #200
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rockford fosgate 6.5 inch punch speakers
rockford fosgate 10 inch punch lvl 2 subwoofer
rockford fosgate 325.1 amp.

factory amps removed
new wires run from head unit to all speakers
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Old 07-11-2009, 12:19 PM   #201
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OOOOO an audio thread, i love audio threads

here's my current jank.

Eclipse 55090


Crystal SSCS6


severely underpowered by planet audio pa3002


and Stereo Integrity Mag D2 in a 2cuft box tuned to 32 hz


powered by my piss poor hifonics bx1205d amp, 1200 apparent RMS at 1 ohm


all wired with knukonceptz wiring, 1/0 ga ftw!

Couple of my old setups....

RE SX 15 in a 3.5 cuft box tuned to 35, yes this fit in my fastback


first sub evar. adire shiva in a 1cuft sealed, I miss this one


I'm mad that dude up here is running zapco everything then alpine piss r's .

If you guys need design help with subboxes, I can design as well. I can design for free and I can build as well.
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lol I know it could sound cleaner, but honestly, it sounds clean as fuck already...already spent too much on the tunes, more than I intended to at least....
you spent too much bc you bought JL.. JL is good but too expensive.
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Old 07-11-2009, 01:16 PM   #202
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^^^ Haha, this guy is someone I could talk to about audio. JL expensive? Maybe. JL good? Nope.

Zapco's not what it used to be either though.
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Old 07-11-2009, 01:42 PM   #203
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^come on now, JL is definitely overpriced for what it is, which is overpriced moderate equipment

You gotta admit W6's and W7's and their amps are AT LEAST good.

Zapco used to be godlike with equipment. Ugh, I fell out of the game though once I got satisfied with my current set up. I still need to deaden my doors and get better amps (I've wanted US Amps, I dont even know if they still exist). I also have this external eclipse eq 21010 that I've been delaying for almost 3 years to install. I should just sell it.
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Old 07-11-2009, 01:44 PM   #204
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i'm seeing some Hifonics in this thread. you feeling you got what you paid for, maybe a little more?
i've never OWNED a Hifonics amp but i know a couple people who have gone through a few setups using them and they never had any real issues, save one that kept overheating. i think my next 240sx system is going to be built around a four channel Hifonics, would you recommend the brand?
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Old 07-11-2009, 01:51 PM   #205
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Honestly, for what I paid for(125), the output is definitely not bad. Whether I'm seeing 1200 watts +- 150 or not, doesnt matter to me since I don't compete anymore and don't plan to. I've never overheated it or anything of that sort either. The only thing I dont like about it is that it uses a non common type of fuse. So if I blew it, I'd be hardpressed to find another unless I contact hifonics themselves. But then again, I shouldnt even be blowing amp fuses or I installed it like an idiot.
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Old 07-11-2009, 02:01 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by druthafoo View Post
^come on now, JL is definitely overpriced for what it is, which is overpriced moderate equipment

You gotta admit W6's and W7's and their amps are AT LEAST good.

Zapco used to be godlike with equipment. Ugh, I fell out of the game though once I got satisfied with my current set up. I still need to deaden my doors and get better amps (I've wanted US Amps, I dont even know if they still exist). I also have this external eclipse eq 21010 that I've been delaying for almost 3 years to install. I should just sell it.
W6's and W7's are inefficient. I'm an SQ+ guy, I want the most efficient sup possible. To save you browsing the older posts in this thread, I'm using:
*Alpine (decent) head unit
*Tru Technology 4.100 w/BB upgrade
*CDT custom components, basically HD6 woofers, Satnet 560i crossover, 1" silk dome tweets - in custom ~.25 ft^3 sealed door boxes (1/2" birch, resin-coated inside, damped by dynamat and bolted to the door frame)



*Soundstream Reference SS10R in 1.5cu ft, tuned to 37hz I believe.




(only pic I have, this was before it was 'hard mounted')

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i'm seeing some Hifonics in this thread. you feeling you got what you paid for, maybe a little more?
i've never OWNED a Hifonics amp but i know a couple people who have gone through a few setups using them and they never had any real issues, save one that kept overheating. i think my next 240sx system is going to be built around a four channel Hifonics, would you recommend the brand?
Definitely get more than your money's worth with old Hifonics stuff, but it's remarkable for it's value, not it's overall quality. If you had more money to spend, there are better options out there, but if you're on a budget, old Hifonics, US Amps, Zapco stuff can be found for CHEAPPPPP.
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Old 07-11-2009, 02:15 PM   #207
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I used to run CDTs. I stil have them somewhere around here, they are the fiberglass midwoofers cdt 6efg I believe mated with crystal tweeters and xover. I had to replace the mids since both blew, I duno. you're crazy tho, sticking an enclosure into the door. I run my sscs6 free air.

I never got into fiberglassing but my plans used to consist of kickpods and or switching to ID horns. Sigh, if this thread reignites my audio love then my car is going to wait even longer for parts. Poo. Nice box up there tho, I like your port design. Mine is ported with a 4 inch precision port. I want to rebuild with a slot port next time tho.

Lol, another thing that killed my audio interest was that I switched to mac and lost all my windows based speaker building programs. haha.
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Old 07-11-2009, 02:50 PM   #208
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Quote:
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you spent too much bc you bought JL.. JL is good but too expensive.
$300 is expensive for a W7 and 500/1? Hardly.
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Old 07-11-2009, 03:00 PM   #209
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Zapco's not what it used to be either though.
With E.S.B making their speakers, I love their components. The amps are still top notch imho. Very efficient and powerfull.

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Originally Posted by druthafoo View Post
Zapco used to be godlike with equipment. (I've wanted US Amps, I dont even know if they still exist).
While there are quite a few good companies around nowadays, Zapco is still on the top of my list for quality AND customer service.
U.S Amps ARE still around. But I will say that they are not what they used to be speaking from first hand exp.

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I'm mad that dude up here is running zapco everything then alpine piss r's .
It's all I had laying around as of right now and plan on a redesign over the winter. Making proper pods for the comps and a different enclosure/sub combo.
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Old 07-11-2009, 03:22 PM   #210
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Quote:
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$300 is expensive for a W7 and 500/1? Hardly.
I assumed you paid a bit more than that. Not bad, but you're using a 500/1 for it?
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With E.S.B making their speakers, I love their components. The amps are still top notch imho. Very efficient and powerfull.


While there are quite a few good companies around nowadays, Zapco is still on the top of my list for quality AND customer service.
U.S Amps ARE still around. But I will say that they are not what they used to be speaking from first hand exp.



It's all I had laying around as of right now and plan on a redesign over the winter. Making proper pods for the comps and a different enclosure/sub combo.
Ok, I was about to say. What are your plans for upgrades? Yeah, when I used to be all about audio, US Amps at the time were near top of the line. Hell I dont know what companies exist and dont exist nowadays.

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