HOW TO S14 K's Triple DIN gauge Install

[Bizzytony]

Ok since RDM write up was long deleted from FA, and I have just finished installing mine here is my write up with pics.
First off the stuff you’ll need
Triple Din Cluster
Wire nuts or connectors
Electrical tape
300zx oil pressure sensor
1/8 Thread copper coupler
1/8 Threaded plumbing or lamp nipple
Teflon plumbing Tape
Some spare wire 20-16 works nicely(in about 2 foot pieces)
Wire cutters and crimpers
Solder(if your hardcore, most connections wont need it)
The harness for the cluster
If you don’t have the actual harness there are two options

Option A
A spare wire harness from a Nissan cluster with a 4x4 configuration Like this

- -
- -
ox
- x
^ That’s the wire configuration you’ll need (- is wire, o is optional, x no wire)
Plug it into the gauge, and follow the directions for the harness(colors are off but wires the same way)

Option B(highly recommend going junkyard or anywhere to get the plug well worth it)
You’ll need some wire, I’d use 14 but that’s me. And a bunch of round end terminals.
Crimp the terminals on the wire. You are going to have to make 4 wires with terminals. Attach them to the following screw terminals.
GND-Ground(yellow)
OTM-Oil Pressure(black)
Turbo-no one got it to work but might as well do it now(purple)
IGN-Ignition(blue)
The colors correspond to the pic


Ok now to get started, these are the colors on the harness according to R240NA aka RDM
Black W/Silver Dots-Ground(GND)
Green-Ignition(IGN)
Black-Illumination Dimmer(Ill+)
Red/Blue-Illumination(ILL)
Yellow/Red- Oil Pressure(OTM)
Black/Pink-Boost(Boost)
Now with the harness this is a snap. Im assuming you have removed the a/c trim, radio trim, and radio. Your going to have to pull the cluster too.
First step is to ground the gauge.
With Harness- Grab the Black with Silver Dots wire and ground it.
With Custom Harness- Grab the second from the Top on the right(In mine its Red/White)
With NO harness- Grab The wire you screwed to the GND Screw(In mine Yellow)
Take the wire and ground it, wanting a perfect ground I took a self tapping metal screw and drilled it right into some of the metal frame.

Step 2 Getting Illumination
This is by far the hardest part without a harness, this made me undo hours of work and fab up a harness.
With Harness-Grab the Red/Blue and the Black wires
With custom harness- Grab the Top Left and Top Right wires(Mine were green w/purple dots and black)
With No harness- This is tricky you can either try to solder wire on the ends of the two top circuit wire or do it the easy way.
First get about two 1 foot lengths of the automotive wire(22 I think).
Strip off about that much

Fan it out till its only 1 strand thick and bend it at a right angle

The idea is to get it sandwiched under these two little copper connection points(show on cluster for size)

Place the tip of the wire in the hole for the light, place the light in, aligning the wire with the connector, and twist the light in.

Get one in the red circle, and one in the purple.



Step 3 wiring illumination
Grab either your Red/Blue(Reg Harness) your Top Left(Custom) or the wire in the red circle(No Harness). Now you need to splice it into any Red/Blue Wire. I used the wire in the defroster, for 2 reasons its near and I never use my defroster. If you like it more clean be my guest and run it to the cluster.
Now Grab your Black(Reg), or Top Right(custom) Or Wire in the purple circle(No Harness) wire and splice it into any Red/Yellow wire. I used the one in my hazard, just for ease, I also had a spare R/Y behind my deck I will try tapping.

The orange wire nut is my Green harness wire tap into R/Y, and the yellow is my harnesses black wire tapped into R/B.

Step 4 Ignition Signal
Now grab your Green(Reg), Bottom Left wire(custom), Or the wire you screwed to the IGN screw. Run it up through the dash(not that hard to find a hole) Now you want to splice it into the White/Red wire running into the harness(on a 95 its right where the screwdriver is pointing)

If you have a kouki cluster, just trace the tape from the Battery light to the W/R wire. Now splice in to it.

Step 5 Oil Pressure
The first thing you’ll need is a Oil Pressure sensor from a Z32
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...tml?cPath=882&
Like that. Try going junkyard or asking a local z guy(got mine for $25)
Keep in mind I did this on a KA. You are going to have to remove the OEM oil pressure switch.

On the KA its to the lower right side of the filter. I assume its near there on the SR. The easiest way to remove it was to remove the oil filter, and use a big-ass 1 1/16inch wrench and untwist the whole thing. Now on the KA you will need to put a coupler on the Sensor, the using a threaded nipple thread it into the coupler and thread the other side in the block. you’ll need the coupler/nipple to extend the sensor about 1 inch to clear everything, too long and you’ll hit the alternator.

Remember to use Teflon tape on the threads. Now with the sensor in place of the OE unit crimp 2 female spade connectors on 2 wires, connect them to the prongs on the sensor, now ground one, and connect the other to the wire that was running to the OE unit its Yellow/Blue. Now back inside, locate the yellow/blue running to the cluster.

Run your Yellow/Red(reg), or your 2nd from the top left wire(custom), or the wire you screwed to OTM(no Harness). Take it to the cluster and cut the yellow/blue and connect it to the wire you ran. Don’t connect it to the cluster, it will just have a faint low oil light on all the time, which would suck.
Step 5 rejoice. Ok you're done. Nothing left to do but fire it up.




TROUBLESHOOTING
If it dosent work check all connections. You may have blown the cluster fuse like I did. If you have no cluster illumination, tail lamp fuse.
If you have nothing at all, recheck grounds.
If the oil pressure wont read, switch the ground and the wire at the sensor. Now if someone wants to figure out the boost, please feel free. Thanks for reading.

[Bizzytony]

oooooweeeee a pic with white LED's from super bright LED's

[vutony]

looks cute

msg

[jdm538]

flipping the housing causes it to have a gap between the radio trim it loos like ass. i tried different ways.

if you found a way to make it work kudos to you.

[illvialuver]

posi rep for you! thanks for that itll come in handy when i have my brother hook that shit up for me( i suck with wires)

[Bizzytony]

Originally Posted by jdm538

flipping the housing causes it to have a gap between the radio trim it loos like ass. i tried different ways.

if you found a way to make it work kudos to you.

ya that is a problem, the cluster itself looks better flipped, to each his own.

[MavericStephenc]

any daytime pics of this setup? thanks

[Bizzytony]

yessir, here ya go.


the first pic you can see the gap JDM538 is talking bout, i had something in there, guess it fell out. O well, i like it anyway. someone feel free to do the turbo. i will be looking into it when i get an SR so look for it..... in a few years.

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by jdm538

flipping the housing causes it to have a gap between the radio trim it loos like ass. i tried different ways.

if you found a way to make it work kudos to you.

If you flip the housing and the lens, then trim the top edge, there's no gap. My writeup had that detailed as well as the full pinout and wiring schematic, but I deleted it from FA a few years ago when they told me "you've never done anything for the 240SX community and don't belong on this or any other forum", and then banned me for being mean to a 14yr old kid who wanted to put J30 headlights on his dad's cousin's friend's S14 because he thought it would look cool.

Sadly, my detailing was pretty nice and included the OE plug wiring, Bizzy, no offense but that shit looks butchered to fuck and back, I'm surprised it hasn't caught fire yet. Seriously, wire nuts? In a car? If you like it though, cool, that's all that matters. I would have found a matching plug or repinned the one you used to accommodate the appropriate wiring.

[Bizzytony]

uh i did find a matching plug and i re-pinned it, i was just doing the write up for people without it. and if you read closely it includes the OE plug wiring. but whatever. and i trust wire nuts in my house. i just dont have a cordless soldering iron. so whatever. shet cant we 240 guys just get along?

[WilloW]

Originally Posted by R240NA

If you flip the housing and the lens, then trim the top edge, there's no gap. My writeup had that detailed as well as the full pinout and wiring schematic, but I deleted it from FA a few years ago when they told me "you've never done anything for the 240SX community and don't belong on this or any other forum", and then banned me for being mean to a 14yr old kid who wanted to put J30 headlights on his dad's cousin's friend's S14 because he thought it would look cool.

Sadly, my detailing was pretty nice and included the OE plug wiring, Bizzy, no offense but that shit looks butchered to fuck and back, I'm surprised it hasn't caught fire yet. Seriously, wire nuts? In a car? If you like it though, cool, that's all that matters. I would have found a matching plug or repinned the one you used to accommodate the appropriate wiring.

Russ, I saved that so if you want me to repost it for you please let me know. Did you ever got the Z32 boost sensor to work for the gauges? Here's mine using Russ' direction. Thanks Russ.

[gotta240]

Thanks for the write up...well done.
sorry for the lame, nooooob question, but......

Where can i find the guage bezels? I didn't even know this was out there and have been contemplating just making my own with black plastic and the small guages... This would make things SO much easier.....

(also, were can the steering wheel column pod be found?)

Again, flame if you must...but a little shared info would be great.

[Bizzytony]

Originally Posted by WilloW

Russ, I saved that so if you want me to repost it for you please let me know. Did you ever got the Z32 boost sensor to work for the gauges? Here's mine using Russ' direction. Thanks Russ.

ya post his so my butchered shit dosent light anyones 240 on fire hahaha but foreal i would like to read it.

[Bizzytony]

Originally Posted by gotta240

Thanks for the write up...well done.
sorry for the lame, nooooob question, but......

Where can i find the guage bezels? I didn't even know this was out there and have been contemplating just making my own with black plastic and the small guages... This would make things SO much easier.....

(also, were can the steering wheel column pod be found?)

Again, flame if you must...but a little shared info would be great.

this is a self contained unit. you buy it as one thing. needs oe sensors to work. check ebay. or you can just look for a din gauge pod.

[WilloW]

Originally Posted by Bizzytony

ya post his so my butchered shit dosent light anyones 240 on fire

I don't mind posting it, but its Russ' write-up. If he OK it, I'll post it up.

"gotta240", you can get the Mickey Mouse gauges holder from XS-Engineering. Here's the link even
Mickey's Ears
I ran out to the garage to take a picture of how it looks (trimmed via Russ' write-up), I tried to show it with the dimmer but I don't know how to work this camera yet.

[gotta240]

you rock... thanks and repped.

[Koopa Troopa]

Did this come in a specific year? I got a Silvia K's but the din guage wasn't an option for mine...

[Bizzytony]

Originally Posted by Koopa Troopa

Did this come in a specific year? I got a Silvia K's but the din guage wasn't an option for mine...

pretty sure 98 only. lets trade cars you can have the gauge ill take the K from ya. haha jk ya from the ebay sales looks like only 98

[WilloW]

Originally Posted by Bizzytony

pretty sure 98 only. lets trade cars you can have the gauge ill take the K from ya. haha jk ya from the ebay sales looks like only 98

Yup, it came from a Kouki.

"Koopa Troopa, if you could get the boost sensor from the Kouki for me, I'll pay you good money for it.

[projectRDM]

Post it, I forgot what all it said anyway.

The unit was an option on 98 K's Aero models only.

[Koopa Troopa]

Originally Posted by WilloW

Yup, it came from a Kouki.

"Koopa Troopa, if you could get the boost sensor from the Kouki for me, I'll pay you good money for it.

I'm in Iraq right now or I'd try and hook you up.

Cool, thanks for the info guys.

[WilloW]

Originally Posted by R240NA

Post it, I forgot what all it said anyway.

The unit was an option on 98 K's Aero models only.

I have a feeling that this is not the guide you've deleted. However, I was able to get the gauges working just from this alone so I think it should also help the folks here.

Russ' install guide
Black w/ silver dots-ground
green-ignition
black-illumination dimmer
red/blue-illumination
yellow/red-oil pressure sensor
black/pink-boost sensor

you’ll hook the illumination dimmer wire to the red/yellow in the car, and I'd run ignition to the cluster wire, not behind the radio. Better source. Buy a Z32 oil pressure sending unit and install it in place of the OE switch, ground one side and feed the other to the gauge input. The boost sensor uses a voltage reference, I'm hooking mine up this weekend using the boost sensor that sits on the RH shock tower. 5 volts is maximum input to the gauge as far as I can tell, and that's the output from the ECU, so it should work fine. Also, you'll notice when it gets installed that the gauges are angled slightly towards the rightside, you can flip the outer housing around, but it requires a little trimming and some creativity, and you'll need to mount it in the lower DIN spot, the trim panel has a lip on the top and won't fit right if left in the upper slot.
JDM 3gauge DIN pod, OEM in 98 Silvia K's Aero models. It fits prefect above the radio and has voltmeter, oil pressure, and boost gauges, all whitefaced, looks very nice in SE cars. Easy 6 wire hookup, you'll need a Z32 oil pressure sender and a Z32/S14 boost sensor to make the gauges work

Another thing that I was able to dig up from a similar post was the part number for the gauges.

"SRFiveTen"...i came up with two boost sensors for s14.
one is for zenki s14, 22365-69F00 unique to zenki s14 and another for kouki s14, 25085-89900 sharing p/n with z32 and many others.

The part number highlighted in bold should be the one that works with the boost gauge.

[Bizzytony]

oh goddam $400?!?!? lol
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-305339.html
thats funny. shet. anyone try salvage one of these??

[bardabe]

seems to be the same as the on on the Z32. call RObert over at Z1 motorsports he hooks it up.

[projectRDM]

I've tried the Z32, R32, R33, and S14 Zenki boost sensors, none of them will work.

[WilloW]

Originally Posted by Bizzytony

oh goddam $400?!?!? lol
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-305339.html
thats funny. shet. anyone try salvage one of these??

LOL, that shit ain't no joke man.

[Bizzytony]

Originally Posted by R240NA

I've tried the Z32, R32, R33, and S14 Zenki boost sensors, none of them will work.

crap so i guess only the boost sensor out of a 98 K will work. shettydeals

[opex]

hello from russia, my name is Petr,I have bought sub-meter r32

volt, oil temp, boost, with panel of the problems no, but here is what connect boost sensor I do not know beside it 3 wires, +, ground, signal, prompt what must be pin beside boost sensor + must be 12v or 5?
scheme

Thanks

[opex]

oops

[driftpolice]

how hard would it be to replace the gauges on this unit with aftermarket gauges?