Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by hatch4life

Anyone? feel free to roast me for a stupid question just make sure to answer it please lol

if the intake manifold is painted, remove it from the car and have it media blasted to remove all of the old paint... then take it and have it powder coated. if the paint that was used was just normal spray paint, then you are going to run into massive issues should you ever hit the manifold with any type of abrasive cleaner such as B12 Carb Cleaner or standard Brake Cleaner. they will eat right thru the paint (even if it has been clear coated). 2 part paints like the ones used in paint shops as well as powder coating arent susceptible to being eaten away at NEARLY as bad as standard spray paint. spray paints use premixed chemicals as well as aerosols... spray paint IS NOT the same type or grade of paints/clear coats used in paint shops and powder coating places.

so yeah, yank the manifold, have it media blasted, hot tanked and powder coated for a clean and OE finish!

[hatch4life]

so yeah, yank the manifold, have it media blasted, hot tanked and powder coated for a clean and OE finish!

much appreciated

[jaysgottaredtop]

^^ Sounds like a lot of effort and money for an intake mani IMO.

Just strip it with aircraft stripper ($22ish for 2 aerosol cans), mask the holes/flanges/barbs ($2), hang it, clean off oils/debris by hosing it down with brake parts cleaner ($4), let it dry, and rattle can it with a couple coats of decent engine paint ($7). Should take you an afternoon and under $40.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

^^ Sounds like a lot of effort and money for an intake mani IMO.

Just strip it with aircraft stripper ($22ish for 2 aerosol cans), mask the holes/flanges/barbs ($2), hang it, clean off oils/debris by hosing it down with brake parts cleaner ($4), let it dry, and rattle can it with a couple coats of decent engine paint ($7). Should take you an afternoon and under $40.

again, this plays into the whole situation i just advised he NOT do!

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

again, this plays into the whole situation i just advised he NOT do!

Don't waste your time. Too many ebay level kids trying to do things too cheap on 240's. They lack patience to take a car the right way through the long haul build

[dallaschristman]

I need new bushings for my rear knuckles and LCAs. If I get the ES rear control arm bushing kit will that have everything I need?

[ze12o]

What are the 5/6 bolt sizes for the underpanel under the steering column? Also the 4 bolt size for bolting the metal plate behind the glove box? For an s13

[Halobb]

If you're talking about the kicker panel. I think they're 10mm but if not try 12. Almost certain they're 10 though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ze12o]

Yeah, i think so too. But would like a more specific spec. I'm going to order online and i dont want to let it be too short or long. A regular 10mm head bolt is a m6 right?

[Halobb]

Honestly man I don't know :/ but can't you just take it to a car store and ask them to match it up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ze12o]

I would but the originals are lost and its discontinued by nissan

[maces13]

Haven't found an answer yet maybe you guys can help. I rebuilding a pair of VS-KFs right now but the two studs/nuts behind each spoke are not extracting, just break loose and spin as one from there with some side to side movement. All the other bolts came out fine. But I feel like I'm missing something cause what are the chances of all of them being messed up. I've never split 3p wheels before so any help would be awesome. Thanks in advance

[Zenki_559]

Does anyone on here have experience with optima blue top batteries? I know the red tops are all the rage, but my shop had 2 optima blue top batteries sitting in the back that were sitting, and i was given permission to take them. Should i take them or just scrap them since they are technically a "marine use" battery?

[LI NY 240sx]

Originally Posted by Zenki_559

Does anyone on here have experience with optima blue top batteries? I know the red tops are all the rage, but my shop had 2 optima blue top batteries sitting in the back that were sitting, and i was given permission to take them. Should i take them or just scrap them since they are technically a "marine use" battery?

I'm no expert, but I believe it's the same specs as the yellow deep cycle optima. You should be fine.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Zenki_559

Does anyone on here have experience with optima blue top batteries? I know the red tops are all the rage, but my shop had 2 optima blue top batteries sitting in the back that were sitting, and i was given permission to take them. Should i take them or just scrap them since they are technically a "marine use" battery?

Jump on them, they are just as good as the Yellow tops for high power lighting or stereo systems or hardcore race ignitions and stuff. Put one on a trickle charge, and use the other one

[mechanicalmoron]

I've got a s14 ka that smoked and had meh compression (155). It's apart, but everything looks excellent, I'm putting it back together with new stock bearings, rings, hone, but no machine work, except getting the head done.

Are stock sohc pistons okay with a stock s13 ecu, with an s14 long block? Is there anything else OE or similar but a bit hotter, that I can swap while in here? This will be a n/a motor for the forseeable future.

[LoSt180]

What shock bellows fit the rear of an S14? I got a KYB shock kit and the rears are too skinny, had to take them off.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

[S14kouki805]

Will an S14SR IACV fit an S13SR?

[drinxbleach]

CODE 45 & 34 HELP:
So I just got a CEL light and it threw a 45 & 34 which is a leaky injector and knock sensor. To fix the Leaky injector I went to the junkyard and picked up some injectors and new o rings. The car ran normal for awhile but now when I try to start it, the crank is very rough and the idle is stumbly. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[Halobb]

So here's my issue guys. Yesterday my car started to leak some fluid, and after ruling out oils and what not, it became obvious it was a gas leak. I took a video of the exact spot where the gas was leaking but my phone deleted them [emoji846][emoji846]. After I tracked down the leak to its origin, at first I thought it was the fourth injector o ring because it was slightly wet. Of course I checked again and now I. Plus actually see the gas seeping through. IMG_0420.JPG its behind the fourth injector if anybody is willing to help me and need more pictures feel free to ask. As of right now I think it might just be that it's not tight enough or that it needs to be sealed properly again, but I don't know how to remove it either. I've lost quite a bit of gas as well lmao. The car runs fine, no issues what's so ever, it's just leaking like hell.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dorkidori_s13]

Just get some new o-rings, injector cap bushings and injector seats. all of which can be had at any local autoparts stores.

[Halobb]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

Just get some new o-rings, injector cap bushings and injector seats. all of which can be had at any local autoparts stores.

Do you know if there is a write up on how to replace all of those, I'm new to the 240 scene and never worked on cars lol. I'm as stupid as they come. PS I have searched for write ups but they're usually for sr20s and such :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaysgottaredtop]

^ Installation is the same between SR and KA24DE. They both use the same style fuel injectors, similar rail, etc. The o-rings are the same.

While you're in there messing with injectors, it would be a good idea to replace all the o-rings at once.

1: Take all 4 injectors out of the rail. 2 phillips head screws per injector cap, careful not to strip these, might be easiest to hit em with a small electric impact if you have one. Be careful not to drop/lose the little rubber retainers in the caps. Injectors will slide out of the rail pockets, but it may take some careful twisting and pulling.
2: Take the rail off the manifold. 3 or 4 bolts.
3: Replace the 4 fat rubber gaskets in the mani runners
4: Replace the 4 lower o-rings (small diameter) and the 4 upper o-rings (large diameter) on the injectors. Carefully put the new o-rings onto the injectors with petroleum jelly to avoid ripping.
5: Reinstall the injectors and rail. Consider throwing out those 8 crappy phillips injector cap screws and getting 8 allen bolts of the same thread/length at your local hardware aisle.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Halobb

Do you know if there is a write up on how to replace all of those, I'm new to the 240 scene and never worked on cars lol. I'm as stupid as they come. PS I have searched for write ups but they're usually for sr20s and such :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1) get new o-rings (top AND bottom), cap bushings and injector seats
2) take caps off injectors with phillips head screwdriver and unplug injectors
3) put BOTH screws back into holes next to injectors
4) get 2 flat head screw drivers, pry injectors out using screws for leverage as there are 2 slots in each injector for the screwdriver head to go in, then remove screws again
5) pull/roll old o-rings off injectors
6) roll new o-rings onto injectors
7) insert new cap bushings into tops of caps in the same way old ones were set
8) insert new injector bushings into intake manifold the same way old ones were set
9) apply vaseline around base of injector bushing holes in intake manifold
10) apply a TON of vaseline to inside of fuel rail toward the bottoms where the injector pintles seat and around the center area where the upper injector rings seat
11) apply a TON of vaseline to o-ring areas (top AND bottom o-rings) on physical injectors themselves
12) insert injectors 1 by 1 back into fuel rail. there will be a noticeable drop in the injector when it seats properly. you can turn it back and forth and bit while reinserting to help seat the injector properly.
13) reinstall injector caps with new cap bushings
14) clean up.

you MAY want to disconnect the line running from your fuel pressure regulator to relieve any built up fuel pressure in the rail (this WILL cause fuel to leak out a bit until the FPR and the fuel rail have drained). its best to leave the car sitting for a few hours and not driving it prior to doing the above just to avoid fuel spraying out due to built up pressure.

and when i say apply a TON of vaseline to the fuel rail and fuel injectors, i mean a TON. this will keep you from ripping, tearing or scarring any of the o-rings. vaseline is petroleum based which means it will dissolve when fuel makes contact with it and burn off in the cylinder chamber with no issues. replacing injectors is a fairly straightforward process. if everything is back together and sealed properly, crank the car over a few times until it starts, it will stutter a bit when started and this is normal. the car will begin running normal after 10-15 seconds. if the car is running like a Subaru and youre missing a cylinder, it means you didnt seat one of the injectors properly and its leaking fuel into the cylinder... if this happens, you will need to pull the injector again and re-seat plus yank your spark plug, take your plug wires out of each cylinder and crank the motor with a paper towel in the spark plug chamber to force the excess fuel out, but this is fairly uncommon if you use enough lube to slide the injectors in place properly... again USE A TON OF VASELINE!!!

[Halobb]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

1) get new o-rings (top AND bottom), cap bushings and injector seats
2) take caps off injectors with phillips head screwdriver and unplug injectors
3) put BOTH screws back into holes next to injectors
4) get 2 flat head screw drivers, pry injectors out using screws for leverage as there are 2 slots in each injector for the screwdriver head to go in, then remove screws again
5) pull/roll old o-rings off injectors
6) roll new o-rings onto injectors
7) insert new cap bushings into tops of caps in the same way old ones were set
8) insert new injector bushings into intake manifold the same way old ones were set
9) apply vaseline around base of injector bushing holes in intake manifold
10) apply a TON of vaseline to inside of fuel rail toward the bottoms where the injector pintles seat and around the center area where the upper injector rings seat
11) apply a TON of vaseline to o-ring areas (top AND bottom o-rings) on physical injectors themselves
12) insert injectors 1 by 1 back into fuel rail. there will be a noticeable drop in the injector when it seats properly. you can turn it back and forth and bit while reinserting to help seat the injector properly.
13) reinstall injector caps with new cap bushings
14) clean up.

you MAY want to disconnect the line running from your fuel pressure regulator to relieve any built up fuel pressure in the rail (this WILL cause fuel to leak out a bit until the FPR and the fuel rail have drained). its best to leave the car sitting for a few hours and not driving it prior to doing the above just to avoid fuel spraying out due to built up pressure.

and when i say apply a TON of vaseline to the fuel rail and fuel injectors, i mean a TON. this will keep you from ripping, tearing or scarring any of the o-rings. vaseline is petroleum based which means it will dissolve when fuel makes contact with it and burn off in the cylinder chamber with no issues. replacing injectors is a fairly straightforward process. if everything is back together and sealed properly, crank the car over a few times until it starts, it will stutter a bit when started and this is normal. the car will begin running normal after 10-15 seconds. if the car is running like a Subaru and youre missing a cylinder, it means you didnt seat one of the injectors properly and its leaking fuel into the cylinder... if this happens, you will need to pull the injector again and re-seat plus yank your spark plug, take your plug wires out of each cylinder and crank the motor with a paper towel in the spark plug chamber to force the excess fuel out, but this is fairly uncommon if you use enough lube to slide the injectors in place properly... again USE A TON OF VASELINE!!!

See this is the part where the leak is happening. Thanks for the write up but I'm. It too sure if it'll fix where the problem is originating, keep in mind I'll do as you advised because it is an old car haha. its behind the last injector, it's not the tube either, it's the metal thing with the two screws vertically. I'm sorry I don't know what is called :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Halobb]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Halobb

See this is the part where the leak is happening. Thanks for the write up but I'm. It too sure if it'll fix where the problem is originating, keep in mind I'll do as you advised because it is an old car haha. its behind the last injector, it's not the tube either, it's the metal thing with the two screws vertically. I'm sorry I don't know what is called :/

That's the fuel pressure regulator. Might just need a new O-ring. Hopefully the fuel rail itself isn't cracked, but that's pretty rare.

[Halobb]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

That's the fuel pressure regulator. Might just need a new O-ring. Hopefully the fuel rail itself isn't cracked, but that's pretty rare.

I doubt it's cracked because I can actually SEE the fuel coming out of the bottom there. All the other injectors and stuff are dry no issues there. Now my question is would I need to take the fuel rail off to replace the o ring? Or could I somehow just tighten it up even though a normal sized screw driver would not fit haha.

-fresh 240 owner [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dorkidori_s13]

go get a new fuel pressure regulator, unscrew the old one, install new one, tighten everything down... DONE!

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

go get a new fuel pressure regulator, unscrew the old one, install new one, tighten everything down... DONE!

your answer^

Originally Posted by Halobb

I doubt it's cracked because I can actually SEE the fuel coming out of the bottom there. All the other injectors and stuff are dry no issues there. Now my question is would I need to take the fuel rail off to replace the o ring? Or could I somehow just tighten it up even though a normal sized screw driver would not fit haha.

-fresh 240 owner [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can leave the rail on, or you can unbolt it and take it off. It really doesn't matter how you do it. You're just leaving yourself open to mess something more important up (injector seating) if you take the rail off entirely.