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Old 03-10-2018, 01:31 PM   #21661
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That's weird, mine is down right next to the radiator. Do you have custom AC work or anything to explain why it's located there? Unless it's one of those odd year to year variances? I see you have an ABS car, doubt that would affect the AC placement though.
Mine's -97 but it's imported from Germany to my country, and unfortunately every S14a here has the same SR20, the damn ABS and same placement for the dryer. Weird placement I agree
I searched a local forum and they said that they either shoved it down enough or rose it up and put the strut under the line, I might try the latter one and see if it works since I don't like the idea of forcing the dryer 2-3cm down
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Old 03-11-2018, 10:10 PM   #21662
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Crank no start

I have a 91 240sx with a ka24de.
I recently just finished up my turbo project on my 240 and got it all tuned and the bugs worked out of it, so I thought. I went for a drive to the gas station to get some fresh gas seeings how I was very low. on my way there I run out of gas(gauge is incorrect). Shortly after I ran out some loggers stopped and ask if I needed help then they said they had a little gas enough to get me back home. after I got home which was less than a 3 minute drive I put 3 gallons of 87 octane in the car (always run 93) and head towards the gas station. Seems to be running fine then I put it in 5th gear and it backfires a little bit and then a big cloud of blackish rich smoke comes out my exhaust and it dies. got it home to see what the issue is
I have confirmed that I have the following:
- I have spark to all four plugs
- Checked timing and its spot on
- I have fuel to the fuel pressure regulator and obviously to the injectors because when I pull the plugs they have gas on them
- The motor is getting air
It cranks fine, and stumbles and shakes like it tries to start when I stop cranking. the battery is fully charged. I am able to check the tps % and maf and so on from my laptop it all seems okay to me. Could it possibly be bad gas? it seems to me like its flooding out and fouling the plugs. Someone please help I need to get this car back on the road and any info would be awesome!
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:59 AM   #21663
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Trying to plan out the wiring I need to do on the track car;

So I have two SPAL fans installed on the Mishimoto S13 radiator fan shroud:
2x SPAL "Extreme Performance" 12in 1870cfm fans, Model: 30103202.
Now hypothetically have about 3740cfm on tap, way more than the 1100cfm of the 2x 12" mishimoto fans that were installed.

I also purchased two of the SPAL high output fan relay kits, one for each fan, which are rated for the power demands of the AP90/91 fan motors. These kits use 90amp relays. Model: FRH-HO-KIT

Now, after some internet sleuthing, I have read that ONE of these fans can pull up to 100 amps at startup (not sure how this wouldn't trip the 90 amp relay if it's true), and drop to about 40 amps continuous after up to speed.
Now if my simpleton maths is right; if I am running two of these fans, that will require a supply of 200 amps at startup and 80 amps continuous? Or is this not the case?
Now to supplement that, the engine in the s13 is a 2008 VQ335HR. According to google, the factory alternator is rated for 110 amps... So you can see where i'm starting to think I may have an issue. IF I really need to supply 200 amps just to start these fans turning then i'm way over the alternator rating. Unless i'm overthinking something?

I really don't want to pay the 6-700 dollars for a larger amperage alternator for this engine just to run these fans as that's just a ridiculous price and i'm not running some big sound system in the car.
Should I try and wire the fans as separate entities instead? So that they can be powered on and off one at a time. But even then if one's at full speed pulling 40 amps, that only leaves me 70 amps left of the rated alternator output and the second fan is going to want 100 to turn on...

Looking to be educated here.

Fans with SPAL Specs PDF: https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/p...p-12v-pk4.aspx
Supposed amperage requirements I found here, could not find anything directly from SPAL: https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...ode=30103202HO
Relay Kit with Spec PDF: https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/p...bp90-fans.aspx

TLDR: Two SPAL 1870cfm fans supposedly require 100 amps at startup (per fan) and a VQ35HR alternator is only rated for 110 amps, what can I do?
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:10 PM   #21664
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Have a separate question so separate post.

Anybody running a solid state battery isolator/kill switch?
I'm looking at the Cartek GT isolator kit, is this just way overkill?
Simple external button for killing the car/battery. No big red key things that can get lost/stolen/broken etc.

http://www.cartek-store.com/battery_...or_gt_kit.html

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Old 03-13-2018, 12:10 PM   #21665
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You should be okay, with these fans they will most likely not hit 40 amps each, more along the lines of maybe 35. Even with 70 amps with both fans on that should be fine, and i doubt youll be running both all the time. And with the initial startup if it really pulls 100 amps each it will just pull the excess from your battery so you should be just fine.
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:14 PM   #21666
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I would personally go with the "big red key things", they are mechanical switches and in an emergency situation I would trust a mechanical switch over electronic. Plus its much cheaper.
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:17 PM   #21667
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That's interesting because they say that the solid state isolators are more reliable than any mechanical switch... Definitely open to any opinions though
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Old 03-13-2018, 04:45 PM   #21668
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Per your question about 200 amps vs alternator:

Yeah, a 110 amp alt won’t be able to keep up with a 200 amp load, but since it’s a quick load that levels back off to 80 amps, it might not be a huge deal.

During that quick burst, the amperage that the alt can’t supply will be delivered by the battery (same as when the battery dumps amperage to turn your starter). Once the fans are running and pulling a low amperage, the alternator can handle the fans and send excess to the battery to charge it back up (again, same as after you crank the engine).

You’ll likely notice a temporary dimming of lights and drop in idle when the fans kick on.
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:43 PM   #21669
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Update: I got the car running a few times today and made a little bit of good progress.
-Drained old fuel and filled up with fresh 93
-New ngk plugs
As soon as I put the fresh gas in and let the plugs and inside the cylinder air out, I let the fuel pump prime and it fired right up and run. I try to restart later and nothing. went and got the new plugs and it seemed to help it would fire up and run for a few.
Now this is the odd part that has me thinking it running rich, I unplugged the relay for the fuel pump so it wouldn't pump anymore fuel and the car fired up and run for about a minute and a half without the fuel pump giving any fuel?????? I guess it had dumped so much fuel previously it was just burning it off? I'm so stumped here and I've obviously narrowed it down to a fuel issue I just can't figure out how to solve it.
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Update: replaced fuel filter and fixed small boost leak. i haven’t had much luck still but i have found it almost wants to start up every time i crank it when the fuel pressure is around 5psi. all these things have been done with the maf unplugged to eliminate the chance of it being a bad maf. cleaned the iacv as well.
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:58 AM   #21670
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Originally Posted by tannerezell077 View Post
Update: I got the car running a few times today and made a little bit of good progress.
-Drained old fuel and filled up with fresh 93
-New ngk plugs
As soon as I put the fresh gas in and let the plugs and inside the cylinder air out, I let the fuel pump prime and it fired right up and run. I try to restart later and nothing. went and got the new plugs and it seemed to help it would fire up and run for a few.
Now this is the odd part that has me thinking it running rich, I unplugged the relay for the fuel pump so it wouldn't pump anymore fuel and the car fired up and run for about a minute and a half without the fuel pump giving any fuel?????? I guess it had dumped so much fuel previously it was just burning it off? I'm so stumped here and I've obviously narrowed it down to a fuel issue I just can't figure out how to solve it.
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Update: replaced fuel filter and fixed small boost leak. i haven’t had much luck still but i have found it almost wants to start up every time i crank it when the fuel pressure is around 5psi. all these things have been done with the maf unplugged to eliminate the chance of it being a bad maf. cleaned the iacv as well.
Are all the cylinders wet? Or just a couple, could be stuck injectors.

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Old 03-14-2018, 04:52 AM   #21671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
Trying to plan out the wiring I need to do on the track car;

So I have two SPAL fans installed on the Mishimoto S13 radiator fan shroud:
2x SPAL "Extreme Performance" 12in 1870cfm fans, Model: 30103202.
Now hypothetically have about 3740cfm on tap, way more than the 1100cfm of the 2x 12" mishimoto fans that were installed.

I also purchased two of the SPAL high output fan relay kits, one for each fan, which are rated for the power demands of the AP90/91 fan motors. These kits use 90amp relays. Model: FRH-HO-KIT

Now, after some internet sleuthing, I have read that ONE of these fans can pull up to 100 amps at startup (not sure how this wouldn't trip the 90 amp relay if it's true), and drop to about 40 amps continuous after up to speed.
Now if my simpleton maths is right; if I am running two of these fans, that will require a supply of 200 amps at startup and 80 amps continuous? Or is this not the case?
Now to supplement that, the engine in the s13 is a 2008 VQ335HR. According to google, the factory alternator is rated for 110 amps... So you can see where i'm starting to think I may have an issue. IF I really need to supply 200 amps just to start these fans turning then i'm way over the alternator rating. Unless i'm overthinking something?

I really don't want to pay the 6-700 dollars for a larger amperage alternator for this engine just to run these fans as that's just a ridiculous price and i'm not running some big sound system in the car.
Should I try and wire the fans as separate entities instead? So that they can be powered on and off one at a time. But even then if one's at full speed pulling 40 amps, that only leaves me 70 amps left of the rated alternator output and the second fan is going to want 100 to turn on...

Looking to be educated here.

Fans with SPAL Specs PDF: https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/p...p-12v-pk4.aspx
Supposed amperage requirements I found here, could not find anything directly from SPAL: https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...ode=30103202HO
Relay Kit with Spec PDF: https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/p...bp90-fans.aspx

TLDR: Two SPAL 1870cfm fans supposedly require 100 amps at startup (per fan) and a VQ35HR alternator is only rated for 110 amps, what can I do?

You forgot to add teh battery amperage of cold crank amps to your alternator's 110A. Now if you have a Red Top, you are running 750A. So 750A + 110A = 860A capability for draw.
Minus 200A from fans at start up when they turn on at around 180*, then add 110A back due to 90A draw, you have no issue. Now if you add a 500W stereo system, with a sub, and it draws 500A, you might need more alternator. Get it?
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:23 AM   #21672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop View Post
Per your question about 200 amps vs alternator:

Yeah, a 110 amp alt won’t be able to keep up with a 200 amp load, but since it’s a quick load that levels back off to 80 amps, it might not be a huge deal.

During that quick burst, the amperage that the alt can’t supply will be delivered by the battery (same as when the battery dumps amperage to turn your starter). Once the fans are running and pulling a low amperage, the alternator can handle the fans and send excess to the battery to charge it back up (again, same as after you crank the engine).

You’ll likely notice a temporary dimming of lights and drop in idle when the fans kick on.
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You forgot to add teh battery amperage of cold crank amps to your alternator's 110A. Now if you have a Red Top, you are running 750A. So 750A + 110A = 860A capability for draw.
Minus 200A from fans at start up when they turn on at around 180*, then add 110A back due to 90A draw, you have no issue. Now if you add a 500W stereo system, with a sub, and it draws 500A, you might need more alternator. Get it?
Thanks guys, for some reason I was thinking the battery CCA only helped with starting and after that it was all dependent on the alternator. Well I hope it all works out then. I think what threw me off was the one link I posted that stated the fans amp requirements also said that a 120amp alternator was recommended, and the HR doesn't seem to be that high.
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Old 03-14-2018, 10:15 AM   #21673
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Are all the cylinders wet? Or just a couple, could be stuck injectors.

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they all are. i pulled the fuel rail and checked all the injectors none leak.


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Old 03-18-2018, 04:06 PM   #21674
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My SR makes very similiar tick as this (although not as bad) when it's warm, but runs very smoothly when cold.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_Yf07HbUlw
Previous owner had changed the lifters and the VTC sprocket but the sound still comes once the engine is warmed up.
However sometimes when I drive on highways or accelerate a lot it sounds smooth again on idle. Do the lifters get more oil on higher revs and thus not being as loud? Or what could it be?
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Old 03-19-2018, 01:14 PM   #21675
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does anyone know if window regulator motors are different for each side? specifically s14 if that matters.

my driver's side regulator motor caught on fire (sick) and i have a whole passenger's side window regulator. i'm hoping i can just pop the motor off of the spare passenger side and put it onto the driver's side. then hopefully it catches on fire again.
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Old 03-19-2018, 01:25 PM   #21676
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Anyone know where to source a part like this? I'm doing a Z32 rear brake swap and this must have been lost in shipment. This sits on the anchor bolt on the wheel facing side of the parking brake assembly.

I might be able to go the a junkyard, but I'm hoping to find one I can just order online somewhere.

EDIT - Found my answer. Part number is 44180E for anyone who comes across this.

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Old 03-19-2018, 10:18 PM   #21677
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Has anyone done a permanent sleep eye with the hella 3x7 driving lights or something similar? I really dont want to be the douche using LED light bars.
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Old 03-20-2018, 04:23 AM   #21678
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does anyone know if window regulator motors are different for each side? specifically s14 if that matters.

my driver's side regulator motor caught on fire (sick) and i have a whole passenger's side window regulator. i'm hoping i can just pop the motor off of the spare passenger side and put it onto the driver's side. then hopefully it catches on fire again.
Nope, different. S14 doesn't have very many ambidextrous parts like the front side marker lights
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Old 03-20-2018, 01:15 PM   #21679
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Nope, different. S14 doesn't have very many ambidextrous parts like the front side marker lights
good to know, thanks dude!
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Old 03-20-2018, 04:38 PM   #21680
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EDIT - Found my answer. Part number is 44180E for anyone who comes across this.

That's only part of the number. There should be another 5 digits.

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Has anyone done a permanent sleep eye with the hella 3x7 driving lights or something similar? I really dont want to be the douche using LED light bars.
1st Gen NSX headlights
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:11 PM   #21681
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So i went to a local shop (All Transmission World for my FL locals)
and they say the trans needs to be rebuilt (95-98 sr20det trans). They quoted me at a dumb expensive $2850 to replace 1) Input shaft which is apparently worn 2) Gears 2, 3, and 5. 3) Pilot/throwout bearings which is what i initially went for. Ive owned and beeb driving the car for about 2 months all in all. Have had no slip and minor grinds when the trans is cold. I do not go hard on the trans believe it or not and i do not ride or stay on the clutch pedal (i.e. in traffic, at stop, at red light) although i do rev match ocassionally when necessary. I also tend to drive out at lower rpms (1500-3000). Does this sound legit to you guys at all? Especially the price?

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Old 03-22-2018, 11:04 PM   #21682
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DO NOT pay $2800 to rebuild a stock SR trans. I wonder if the shop even realizes it's an SR20 and not the stock 240SX transmission. Now, I think trans parts are interchangeable, but I'll bet that shop knows even less than me about that difference.

If your transmission's really that bad, get another used one for a couple hundred. Or upgraded to a Z33 transmission.
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:17 PM   #21683
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DO NOT pay $2800 to rebuild a stock SR trans. I wonder if the shop even realizes it's an SR20 and not the stock 240SX transmission. Now, I think trans parts are interchangeable, but I'll bet that shop knows even less than me about that difference.

If your transmission's really that bad, get another used one for a couple hundred. Or upgraded to a Z33 transmission.
I was thinking the same thing. Gonna contact our well known shop Titan motorsports and see what they have to say about it.

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Old 03-23-2018, 04:25 AM   #21684
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Originally Posted by brokeboi01 View Post
So i went to a local shop (All Transmission World for my FL locals)
and they say the trans needs to be rebuilt (95-98 sr20det trans). They quoted me at a dumb expensive $2850 to replace 1) Input shaft which is apparently worn 2) Gears 2, 3, and 5. 3) Pilot/throwout bearings which is what i initially went for. Ive owned and beeb driving the car for about 2 months all in all. Have had no slip and minor grinds when the trans is cold. I do not go hard on the trans believe it or not and i do not ride or stay on the clutch pedal (i.e. in traffic, at stop, at red light) although i do rev match ocassionally when necessary. I also tend to drive out at lower rpms (1500-3000). Does this sound legit to you guys at all? Especially the price?

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Old 03-24-2018, 08:06 AM   #21685
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hi, did anyone use NRG short hub without quick release on s13? Just nrg short hub with steering wheel.any information is useful. thanks
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:46 PM   #21686
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Alright guys I have a silvia k's 1992. The car currently has a jdm vsld with 5 bolt axles. I want to run a welded in the car, but I don't want to have to buy new axles and a new diff. I was wondering if I could install a q45 5 bolt diff? It should just drop in correct?

I would obviously be looking for an open diff q45 diff. Or am I fucked since they're all vlsd?

Any help would be great thanks guys!
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:42 PM   #21687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e30gangsta View Post
Alright guys I have a silvia k's 1992. The car currently has a jdm vsld with 5 bolt axles. I want to run a welded in the car, but I don't want to have to buy new axles and a new diff. I was wondering if I could install a q45 5 bolt diff? It should just drop in correct?

I would obviously be looking for an open diff q45 diff. Or am I fucked since they're all vlsd?

Any help would be great thanks guys!
They're all VLSD. Shouldn't be hard to find standard S13 diff and axles.
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Old 03-24-2018, 05:41 PM   #21688
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How to eliminate the turbo flutter/compressor surge completely? I installed an adjustable BOV and on both 100% VTA to 100% recirc there's always a little flutter heard on the hot pipe side.
The BOV works as it should (but the spring pre-load is not fully adjusted yet but I'm not fully sure if it makes all the difference in this?)
I do have an apexi pod and an fmic so they amplify the noise but is it possible to get rid of it without changing the intake pod?
BOV is on cold side about 12 inches from TB and recirc hose goes back to intake from there.
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Old 03-24-2018, 06:50 PM   #21689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
How to eliminate the turbo flutter/compressor surge completely? I installed an adjustable BOV and on both 100% VTA to 100% recirc there's always a little flutter heard on the hot pipe side.
The BOV works as it should (but the spring pre-load is not fully adjusted yet but I'm not fully sure if it makes all the difference in this?)
I do have an apexi pod and an fmic so they amplify the noise but is it possible to get rid of it without changing the intake pod?
BOV is on cold side about 12 inches from TB and recirc hose goes back to intake from there.
My blitz will open at 5psi. Anything below will flutter. It's not killing the turbo as that's a pretty low pressure. What the lowest psi your bov will open up at?

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Old 03-24-2018, 10:55 PM   #21690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
My blitz will open at 5psi. Anything below will flutter. It's not killing the turbo as that's a pretty low pressure. What the lowest psi your bov will open up at?

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And my Tial was even worse at around 10 psi.

I've found that the HKS SSQV and GReddy RS / RZ open very easily.

That being said, a small bit of flutter at part throttle isn't going to hurt anything.
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