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Old 08-12-2018, 01:40 PM   #22081
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Highway speeds you should get enough air thru the bumper to not even need a fan. Do you have the stock undertray?
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:44 PM   #22082
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Highway speeds you should get enough air thru the bumper to not even need a fan. Do you have the stock undertray?


That plastic piece ? Negative on that ghost rider .. when i bought the shell it never came with it. But honestly how many of us have that piece still ?

I am using an LRB cooling panel up to .. head light covers/ and center piece minus the hood latch cut out


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Old 08-12-2018, 04:34 PM   #22083
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What he said. Highway speeds you shouldn't need your fans.
What temp sensor are we using? OEM or aftermarket? (And I saw your post about the discrepancy between the PFC And EVDM. Go by the PFC for now with the lower reading).
With everything you're telling me. And if those fans are really pulling air like that, I'm wondering if you're system is fine and you're just getting fake news / false Intel.
Do not drop to a colder thermostat. That's poor practice and unnecessary. OEM one is just fine.

Also, Have we used infrared on the SR water outlet to compare that reading with the gauges?
I really don't think you should have to be this intrusive, but at the end of the day if everything else is proving out, maybe we wanna pop that water pump and have a looksee...

EDIT: Also. You never stated you actually verified the thermostat. Just that it was brand new and you threw it in. I would verify the temps of when it cracks and when it fully opens so I know whereabouts my temps should fall. They should be within like 5į of that I think.
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:43 PM   #22084
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Consecutive post. Never got an answer gents...

S13 w/ '97+ Q45 diff swap for 3.69 ratio. Pretty sure I got it down, just want someone to check the work.
Already have a '95 or '96 J30 diff in the car with 3x2 stubs and axles.
'97+ Q45 stubs bolt to J30 5-bolt axles? And these axles swap directly into the s13 hubs?
Other option is the pre '97 Q45 stubs w/ z32TT/Q45 6-bolt axles and would need z32 TT hubs right?

And If one was retaining the s13 3x2 half shafts and just bolting in the q45 diff could they just pop out the stubs and pop the ones from the J30 in?

(I'm actually now pretty sure I'm gonna scrap going with the q45 diff because i want a higher numerical gear that 3.69, but would like those questions above answered.)
If using a Ford 8.8" diff, what driveshaft do you use? Does the stock one bolt up? Axles/half-shaft options?
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Old 08-12-2018, 05:11 PM   #22085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Nation S13 View Post
That plastic piece ? Negative on that ghost rider .. when i bought the shell it never came with it. But honestly how many of us have that piece still ?

I am using an LRB cooling panel up to .. head light covers/ and center piece minus the hood latch cut out


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You're problem is air ducting into the radiator. You absolutely should try to locate a stock under tray replacement. Those pieces direct air from the bumper directly into the radiator vs air going all over the place. There's a pretty good write up out there that documents the differences with/with out shrouds and with different fan setups.
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:19 PM   #22086
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Ducting is def good. Stock undertray is not required, does not direct air from bumper to rad, and doesn't really make a difference.
I don't think that's his problem here.
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:09 PM   #22087
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Ducting is def good. Stock undertray is not required, does not direct air from bumper to rad, and doesn't really make a difference.
I don't think that's his problem here.
At speed it directs air from the bumper into the rad, otherwise the air goes down and around.
His setup sounds like it should be running perfectly. So he either isn't moving enough air across the radiator, is over thinking the exact temps he's seeing, or has a small leak in a hose causing the system to not pressurize properly and read hotter than it should.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:26 PM   #22088
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Quote:
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At speed it directs air from the bumper into the rad, otherwise the air goes down and around.
His setup sounds like it should be running perfectly. So he either isn't moving enough air across the radiator, is over thinking the exact temps he's seeing, or has a small leak in a hose causing the system to not pressurize properly and read hotter than it should.

As far as leaks go I have none my car sits for a week or two and not a single drop of coolant can be seen, i do check everyday i have a some oil seaping from my oil pan so i consistently check just to make sure the leak hasnít gotten worse, and also can visually see no coolant on my garage floor.

As far as overthink temps, temps posted are temps coming from PFC commander / and after market coolant temp sensor (PBM EVDM) placed in upper rad hose. Canít really over think those when itís a digital read out. I do however understand temps coming from upper rad hose will be at its hottest since it hasnít gone through the radiator. But if you are looking at PFC temps which coolant has already gone through the rad i read anywhere between 85-90íC (highway/on off boost/and have to have the heater on blast) which is a a tab bit over the 80-82íc that most are stating to be within normal OP range.

Next step for be would be ducting. Also forgot to mention i did get my car painted .. and Iím not to sure how well they covered stuff so would overspray gunk up the cooling fins, causing issues?




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Old 08-12-2018, 08:37 PM   #22089
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A/T Unit

For those who did the 5 Speed swap, I noticed an extra doo-hicky dangling between my legs when driving and Im pretty sure it's the A/T Control Unit. If Im running a Manual SR20 ECU, can I just unplug the A/T unit without any issues? I dont have anywhere to mount it since the Clutch pedal is now in the way.

Also, does anyone know what the Smart Entrance Control Unit is? Do I need it if I just use the key to get in?

Okay another question, where in the firewall do people route their wiring for gauges? I have an AFR unit to mount so it is gonna be running some extra, thicker wires on top of just power and ground.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:37 PM   #22090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleakley View Post
What he said. Highway speeds you shouldn't need your fans.
What temp sensor are we using? OEM or aftermarket? (And I saw your post about the discrepancy between the PFC And EVDM. Go by the PFC for now with the lower reading).
With everything you're telling me. And if those fans are really pulling air like that, I'm wondering if you're system is fine and you're just getting fake news / false Intel.
Do not drop to a colder thermostat. That's poor practice and unnecessary. OEM one is just fine.

Also, Have we used infrared on the SR water outlet to compare that reading with the gauges?
I really don't think you should have to be this intrusive, but at the end of the day if everything else is proving out, maybe we wanna pop that water pump and have a looksee...

EDIT: Also. You never stated you actually verified the thermostat. Just that it was brand new and you threw it in. I would verify the temps of when it cracks and when it fully opens so I know whereabouts my temps should fall. They should be within like 5į of that I think.


So if we are going with PFC degree Iím sitting at 85-90íC (highway/ on off boost/ efans on/ heater on blast) if anything i wouldnít have to have any of these parameters on in order to maintain a stable temp. Still gets me that most are staying 80-82íC is their norm and i can guarantee they arenít running the heater on etc.

I didnít verify the thermo. because it was new, i know it wouldnt hurt to check, but based on my description the lower hose gets hot at or around the temp the OEM thermo opens. So i assume it works, if it was cold as compared to the upper rad hose at 180-190ish then i would say that that would be an issue, but that isnít the case. Hot lower hose would indicate the thermo opening.

Inspecting Water pump ... what would I be looking for? Normally when the water pump goes out itís because of a leak and as mentioned before I havenít seen a drop of coolant.


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Old 08-12-2018, 09:58 PM   #22091
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Anyone know why my SR does this hiss when it shuts off? Left it to shut down on a 1:30 min turbo timer sequence. Changed the oil about 500 miles ago with 15w-50 if that matters, thanks.
https://youtu.be/mFOjRG3_aY0


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Old 08-12-2018, 11:37 PM   #22092
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Anyone got or know where to find a mix door motor/blend door actuator motor up for sale for the DCC swap into usdm s13? PM me please and thanks in advance.
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Old 08-13-2018, 05:44 AM   #22093
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Quote:
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That plastic piece ? Negative on that ghost rider .. when i bought the shell it never came with it. But honestly how many of us have that piece still ?
I took mine off to do some work...during the late spring. Summer downpours told me put that shit back on because water flying into the belts and making them slip sucks. I am talking major deluges, buckets so hard your wipers can't keep up. I think I'll get one of those nice metal ones
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Old 08-13-2018, 07:58 AM   #22094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
For those who did the 5 Speed swap, I noticed an extra doo-hicky dangling between my legs when driving and Im pretty sure it's the A/T Control Unit. If Im running a Manual SR20 ECU, can I just unplug the A/T unit without any issues? I dont have anywhere to mount it since the Clutch pedal is now in the way.

Also, does anyone know what the Smart Entrance Control Unit is? Do I need it if I just use the key to get in?

Okay another question, where in the firewall do people route their wiring for gauges? I have an AFR unit to mount so it is gonna be running some extra, thicker wires on top of just power and ground.
Okay to unplug the trans control unit and zip tie the harness out of the way.

Leave the entrance unit in place. I think it does more than just keyless entry.

Drill a new hole, or fish wires into an existing opening. I actually repurposed several wires from the auto harness to avoid running new wires into the cabin.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:19 AM   #22095
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Quote:
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.... But if you are looking at PFC temps which coolant has already gone through the rad i read anywhere between 85-90íC (highway/on off boost/and have to have the heater on blast) which is a a tab bit over the 80-82íc that most are stating to be within normal OP range.

Next step for be would be ducting. Also forgot to mention i did get my car painted .. and Iím not to sure how well they covered stuff so would overspray gunk up the cooling fins, causing issues?
185-194įF is normal operating temp for driving. 176įF is maybe idling on a chilly morning. If the car is running consistently above 215-220į and not coming down, you'd have a problem. It doesn't sound like you have a problem at all. Even the FSM "example" consult displays show 88įC. The stock fan doesn't even turn on until 95įC/203įF.

They'd have to paint the whole radiator to cause a problem, and most of the time it's only the bottom of the AC condenser that gets a bit of over spray.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:53 AM   #22096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
185-194įF is normal operating temp for driving. 176įF is maybe idling on a chilly morning. If the car is running consistently above 215-220į and not coming down, you'd have a problem. It doesn't sound like you have a problem at all. Even the FSM "example" consult displays show 88įC. The stock fan doesn't even turn on until 95įC/203įF.

They'd have to paint the whole radiator to cause a problem, and most of the time it's only the bottom of the AC condenser that gets a bit of over spray.

Where did you find that in the FSM, would like to see that for myself. Stock fan doesnít come on til 95íC interesting ... also i run 210íC free way but i still have to run my heater and efans, Iíll try to cruise the freeway without those parameters and see if there is a change.


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Old 08-13-2018, 10:04 AM   #22097
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Quote:
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Where did you find that in the FSM, would like to see that for myself. Stock fan doesn’t come on til 95’C interesting ... also i run 210’C free way but i still have to run my heater and efans, I’ll try to cruise the freeway without those parameters and see if there is a change.
I posted a screen shot when you first started asking these questions:

http://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=6...ostcount=22054

I think you're issue is worthy of it's own thread at this point, it's beyond a "small" question.

Edit: also, not all leaks result in puddles. I made the bone-head mistake of not tightening down one of the clamps that feed the heater core after I did my engine swap. Car ran fine, except temps weren't very stable in the winter and I noticed coolant was "disappearing". Didn't notice any obvious leaks. Then just noticed the loose clamp one day while working on something else. My Armada also has a similar issue right now, the lower radiator hose is wet from a slow leak, but never noticed any puddles and have had to top off coolant once.
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Old 08-13-2018, 01:33 PM   #22098
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He's using the EVDM's temp sensor. I'm betting his system is just fine.
My guess is the resistance in the sensor is a little different than the stock one or whatever the PFC is looking for which is skewing the voltage to the ECU / PFC at operating temp. My money is almost 100% on that at this point.
My friend Jeremy has a '95 Eagle Talon and I thunk he literally just went through JUST that. I had to go into my FSM i have for him to give him the resistances he should've been seeing at the specified temps.

S-Nation. It'd be a good idea to verify the thermostat so we can verify were dealing with a 170 and not a 180. Also, If you have any literature om the EVDM, then supply it. I'll do my own research to try and find the specs and also see what the stock one should be at or what the PFC is looking for. If you have the values / table for the PFC, I'm curious what that is looking for.
My hope is we find the two to have different values which would cause your "issue."

Edit, almost forgot. One more question actually. When you're cruising on the highway and the heater off. Do your temps continue to rise with no sign of stopping??? Or do they level out somewhere just north of where they should be? Can't believe i forgot to ask that question before. I might PM you to make this process easier... Lol.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:15 PM   #22099
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Does anyone know if the coolbox is rhd specific or itíll work in a lhd car, idk if the gloveboxes are shaped differently which is why im askinh. Or if anyone has one in their 240? Thank you.


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Old 08-15-2018, 12:23 AM   #22100
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does anyone know exactly how much wider federal tires are than normal?
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Old 08-15-2018, 12:47 AM   #22101
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Does anyone know where you can get OEM LMGT2 decals? Iím refinishing a set this weekend and canít find them anywhere.
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Old 08-15-2018, 07:02 AM   #22102
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Quote:
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Does anyone know if the coolbox is rhd specific or itíll work in a lhd car, idk if the gloveboxes are shaped differently which is why im askinh. Or if anyone has one in their 240? Thank you.
Pretty sure I've seen these installed in LHD cars. No idea if fabrication was needed, but it's doable.
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Old 08-17-2018, 08:01 AM   #22103
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Can anybody answer this for me, i cant seem to get a straight answer...

Do s13 blacktop motors use the same oem hydraulic lifters as the s13 redtops? I can only find oem replacements for "s13 redtop straight cam motors" but i have an s13 blacktop

I do not want to go solid lifters if i dont have to. Thank you to anyone who can help!
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Old 08-17-2018, 08:55 AM   #22104
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Does anyone know if the coolbox is rhd specific or it’ll work in a lhd car, idk if the gloveboxes are shaped differently which is why im askinh. Or if anyone has one in their 240? Thank you.
Take a look through this thread:

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=101705
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:06 AM   #22105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo_Galezo View Post

Does anyone know if the coolbox is rhd specific or it’ll work in a lhd car, idk if the gloveboxes are shaped differently which is why im askinh. Or if anyone has one in their 240? Thank you.
if the egg hunt thread doesn't help you. go to google and type in "cool box LHD site:zilvia.net", that will have your answer.


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does anyone know exactly how much wider federal tires are than normal?
https://tyrestretch.com/list


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Does anyone know where you can get OEM LMGT2 decals? I’m refinishing a set this weekend and can’t find them anywhere.
I saw some on ebay a second ago. they're probably not OEM, but those have got to be next to non existent by now.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:46 PM   #22106
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has anyone had experience with KTS arms? I searched and all I found are 10+ year old threads that talked about kts/silk road coilovers. I am after a RUCA for my altezza and don't want to spend 800 bones for s9.
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:34 PM   #22107
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Originally Posted by iJDM View Post
Can anybody answer this for me, i cant seem to get a straight answer...

Do s13 blacktop motors use the same oem hydraulic lifters as the s13 redtops? I can only find oem replacements for "s13 redtop straight cam motors" but i have an s13 blacktop

I do not want to go solid lifters if i dont have to. Thank you to anyone who can help!
The part number for S13/S14/S15 SR20DET OEM lifters is the same. 13234-53J01
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Old 08-19-2018, 01:43 AM   #22108
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New Question: TP value Sanity Check

I'm hoping someone who has tuned a redtop SR20DET with stock MAF and injectors can confirm what I am seeing in my recent datalogs.


Basically the MAF voltage maxes out at 5.11v @ 7000 rpm, 73% throttle, and at TP=76 (but the stock TP fuel and timing scale goes to 104)

Applying the common calc for TP~(Q*K/N) /256 along with the K and VQ values from the rom it looks like the 6 or so cells in the highest load, highest rpm region of the fuel/timing maps would not every be used since the MAF voltage is maxed out before you'd ever get to that part of the map. In order to reach the last load column of the map (TP=104) the MAF would have to be maxed out at 5000 rpms. So effectively the last load column (104) can only be accessed at 5000 rpm or below and the 2nd to last column (92) can only be accessed below 6000 rpms. Does this sound right?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GckYHS9s4MdVrgMn9
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Old 08-19-2018, 06:48 PM   #22109
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Okay I finally sat down to buy those 26mm rotors, so I could weigh them etc..

And found this


So seriously. Why are there two different versions of 26mm rotors? Which one do I buy? I have some old Aluminum 26mm calipers to slap on the ol 240
'height' refers to.... the hub part? I mean wtf is this lol
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:59 PM   #22110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
Okay I finally sat down to buy those 26mm rotors, so I could weigh them etc..

And found this


So seriously. Why are there two different versions of 26mm rotors? Which one do I buy? I have some old Aluminum 26mm calipers to slap on the ol 240
'height' refers to.... the hub part? I mean wtf is this lol
xxx-42046 is the correct part number for 26mm centric rotors. Not sure what that other one fits.

xxx-42050 is for 30mm rotors.

The 2 small holes are there to help remove the rotors when it's time to swap them out. Just find a bolt that fits and drive it in there.
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