Anybody using the ISIS Screamer Dump??

[MadScientist]

Originally Posted by Arireese

im running the same shit and its so annoying..exhaust leaks blow

Consisting of ceramic and iron oxide filled paste, Pyro-Putty® 2500 bonds, seals, and repairs defects up to ¼ in. in cross-section in cast iron and steel components up to 1,600°F. Single part, water-based, black-pigmented paste will not decompose at high temperatures and contains no VOCs. Setting at room temperature and curing in-situ or by heating to 200°F for 2-4 hr, product is suited for afterburners, boiler casings, heat exchangers, exhaust manifolds, flanges, headers, and mufflers.

[thegentlemen]

Originally Posted by MadScientist

Consisting of ceramic and iron oxide filled paste, Pyro-Putty® 2500 bonds, seals, and repairs defects up to ¼ in. in cross-section in cast iron and steel components up to 1,600°F. Single part, water-based, black-pigmented paste will not decompose at high temperatures and contains no VOCs. Setting at room temperature and curing in-situ or by heating to 200°F for 2-4 hr, product is suited for afterburners, boiler casings, heat exchangers, exhaust manifolds, flanges, headers, and mufflers.

not a bad idea, although im not sure if im willing to stick putty into my turbo though. Have you ever personally used this putty to fix the same issue?

[MadScientist]

Most of the Japan shops that sell Screamer Pipes also include an epoxy based sealer, however its application is based on the customers abilty. I have used this on other high temp mechanical parts (jet turbines).

I do not recomend you make a divider plate solely out of this material... I am suggest it a sealer, and to use it sparingly.

No VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) means its not an Epoxy and you will not be allergic, and shrink is minimal (.001 or less).

[thegentlemen]

although, where do i get some of that at? maybe i can add a little of that to the flange on the turbo elbow to help seal it that way.

not quite sure if thats what the japanese intention with supplying the sealant was but i cant think of much else to try man

[kevmeistah21]

Originally Posted by thegentlemen

yes my divider plate is also removed and the holes for the divider are welded shut, however my question is how do i get it from leaking and sounding like a exhaust leak because of the divider not being there? is that possible using the s15 turbo

Measure the divider plate within the s15 turbo and the divider
Plate on the elbow. Cut the divider plate on the elbow according to your measurements on both. But it's
Too late since you welded your
Holes


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[kevmeistah21]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1329363426.193616.jpg


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[thegentlemen]

yea thats a good idea and may actually work using something like a band saw with the proper metal blade or something. but i was going to just use a welder and try laying a bead on the turbo elbow to see if it would work that way. I just bought a external gate for my stock manifold so ill be going a different route, but if anyone wants to by the screamer dump i have and give it a shot it'll be up for sale for cheap

[199240sxcoupe]

Originally Posted by 240sxdriftin

Damn, so these things sound like an exhaust leak normally?? I stuck mine on the other day and heard the exhaust leak, figured it was my turbo gasket so I ordered a new one haha, Oh well I need to chop my dump tube to clear the steering shaft anyways.

Did anyone else find it a bit difficult to attach the elbow to the turbo? Mine was a pain

Yea I.just got mine today and I can't bolt it on hits the studs.



How did you get yours mounted?

[kevmeistah21]

Originally Posted by 199240sxcoupe

Yea I.just got mine today and I can't bolt it on hits the studs.



How did you get yours mounted?

Get a punch and hammer those parts in enough for you to bolt it on..


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[booey13]

^the trick is to lift up on the elbow to where there is just enough threads on the studs sticking through the holes to thread the nuts on and work the elbow down as you thread them on.

[kevmeistah21]

Originally Posted by booey13

^the trick is to lift up on the elbow to where there is just enough threads on the studs sticking through the holes to thread the nuts on and work the elbow down as you thread them on.

He can't do that cause the studs actually hitting the elbow.. He needs to hammer that part of the elbow that hits the stud then do the trick you're talking about.


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[booey13]

Damn...it's that far off? If that's the case it seems as though the nut would tighten on the weld and not be flush. I guess clearancing it like you said is the only option. Hopefully it doesn't break the weld

[kevmeistah21]

Originally Posted by booey13

Damn...it's that far off? If that's the case it seems as though the nut would tighten on the weld and not be flush. I guess clearancing it like you said is the only option. Hopefully it doesn't break the weld

He should be fine, I hammered the shit out of mine when I had it and it held up perfectly fine.


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[killer240]

if your not pushing 400+ HP and already have 2.5 or 3 inch turbo to back

take that screamer pipe off

otherwise fix the leak and its a screamer pipe

[killer240]

since you said you have a T28 then you dont need a screamer pipe at all

[tinys s14]

Fitted great on my s14 sr but it was loud as hell

[Lowlifes!]

My buddy just built his own screamer pipe for his RB25 Kouki and its sick. I love the sound of it. Thinking i will have to get one soon!