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Old 09-26-2009, 10:07 AM   #31
s15specR
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Originally Posted by 240sx blue pearl View Post
Ok, I've gotten somewhere with this.
So far I have checked timing, repositioned tps according to spec, cleaned MAF, removed\ cleaned IACV, and the problem has basicly gone away. I drove a decent ammount today trying to get it to stall everywhere I went, but it only falls to about 650ish. Only once did it fall below that but it did not stall. I think the MAF cleaner is what did the trick.

How exactly are you repositioning the TPS, that's the only thing I changed, and I'm having this problem.
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:47 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by s15specR View Post
How exactly are you repositioning the TPS, that's the only thing I changed, and I'm having this problem.
you have to set it with a voltmeter.i set mine to 4.5v.
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Old 09-27-2009, 10:27 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by ross.cottrill View Post
you have to set it with a voltmeter.i set mine to 4.5v.
exactly.

For an S14 SR the resistance across the TPS should be .7k ohms closed to 5k ohms open. ..when it is unplugged and key is off

To adjust it, you have to loosen the 2 screws then turn it with your hand
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Old 09-28-2009, 03:01 PM   #34
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Gonna try this right now, thanks.
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:20 PM   #35
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usually iacv problems tend to have cold start issues when the temperature is cold.
my car ran fine all summer cold starts, i started it up when it was 65 degrees out and its running so lumpy with my step 2 264 cams i thought i was on 3 cylinders. soon as it warmed up it was fine. my iacv needs replacement soon anyways.
it used to be so bad when i started it up when it was cold i had to keep the TB open manually else it would stall until it warmed up...then it purred perfectly.
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:59 PM   #36
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same problem here too just put the enthalpy ecu in...gona check for vacuum leaks.
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:48 AM   #37
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same problem here too just put the enthalpy ecu in...gona check for vacuum leaks.
if u still have issues, just email/call enthalpy...they will get you all fixed up
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