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Old 02-20-2018, 07:16 PM   #21631
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Does anyone here know how to tell if you have a real Nismo shift knob, i see so many fake ones on ebay and the shift knob came with the car.

Nismo knob in question

https://conceptzperformance.com/nism...sal_p_2799.php
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Old 02-21-2018, 04:37 AM   #21632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjack300zx View Post
Does anyone here know how to tell if you have a real Nismo shift knob, i see so many fake ones on ebay and the shift knob came with the car.

Nismo knob in question

https://conceptzperformance.com/nism...sal_p_2799.php
Legit Nissan Nismo shift knob does not have an adapter to fit anything else except Nissan threads
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Old 02-22-2018, 12:14 PM   #21633
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Anyone here a paint expert? I have single step paint on my car (I assume) and my bumper has o semi-deep scratch that I have to bog and paint.
The question is that can I put clear coat over the corrected area? I bought matching paint in a spray bottle that has some kind of clear coat in it, but should I or could I put clear coat over the painted scratch in order to blend it better?
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:46 AM   #21634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
Anyone here a paint expert? I have single step paint on my car (I assume) and my bumper has o semi-deep scratch that I have to bog and paint.
The question is that can I put clear coat over the corrected area? I bought matching paint in a spray bottle that has some kind of clear coat in it, but should I or could I put clear coat over the painted scratch in order to blend it better?
Most just paint the whole bumper. Only time you want to try to blend is a whole side because a door or fender gets whacked. Try buffing it out first
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:37 AM   #21635
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s14 Exhaust system setups

Exhaust fell off on my s14 KA24DE (1995). Like, bolts from the
midpipe->manifold snapped clean off. Probably from scraping. Suggestions for header/catback setups? I don't know what gets along well with what, and what bolts up nicely to a stock chassis. Looking for something rather inexpensive, as I'll be doing a swap by this time next year. Thanks in advance.

Sidenote: Was looking at ISR tubular 4-2-1 and the 3" straight blast pipes, seems to be about a $350-$410 setup altogether, just not sure if it all fits up nicely. Anything around that price would work, just need somethin that fkn fits!
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Old 02-23-2018, 03:09 PM   #21636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _poo40 View Post
Exhaust fell off on my s14 KA24DE (1995). Like, bolts from the
midpipe->manifold snapped clean off. Probably from scraping. Suggestions for header/catback setups? I don't know what gets along well with what, and what bolts up nicely to a stock chassis. Looking for something rather inexpensive, as I'll be doing a swap by this time next year. Thanks in advance.

Sidenote: Was looking at ISR tubular 4-2-1 and the 3" straight blast pipes, seems to be about a $350-$410 setup altogether, just not sure if it all fits up nicely. Anything around that price would work, just need somethin that fkn fits!

Honestly? I would just get a damn $188 ebay setup if you're going to swap. (I understand this is a 4", there are 3")

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-MUFFLER-T...5aPffu&vxp=mtr

The ISR setup would fit just the same. I've used both etc.

I have seen absolutely no difference between the 2.
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:33 PM   #21637
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Whenever I start my car, this wire to the fusebox in the engine bay gets really hot. Smells like its burning if the car runs for too long. This just happened all of sudden.

Also my car cluster lights stay on even when I turn off the car. Replaced ignition switch but that didnt help. Checked my harness under the fender and its fine. I keep hearing a relay click so I am thinking it is the Ignition Relay under the dash? Could this correlate with the wire getting hot all of a sudden?

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Old 02-24-2018, 07:07 AM   #21638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _poo40 View Post
Exhaust fell off on my s14 KA24DE (1995). Like, bolts from the
midpipe->manifold snapped clean off. Probably from scraping. Suggestions for header/catback setups? I don't know what gets along well with what, and what bolts up nicely to a stock chassis. Looking for something rather inexpensive, as I'll be doing a swap by this time next year. Thanks in advance.

Sidenote: Was looking at ISR tubular 4-2-1 and the 3" straight blast pipes, seems to be about a $350-$410 setup altogether, just not sure if it all fits up nicely. Anything around that price would work, just need somethin that fkn fits!
The only system that is exactly ran the same as the OE is the OBX Racing. I know it comes in a 2.5", but it may also come in 3". Bottom line is the cheapest way to go is Summit Racing, get the SS tubing, fit it with four " over lap so it tucks really high, then have the joints slipped at a muffler shop. Under 200 usually, plus cost of muffler and shop work(100 or so)
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:34 AM   #21639
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Legit Nissan Nismo shift knob does not have an adapter to fit anything else except Nissan threads
http://www.nismo.co.jp/products/cata....html#page=313
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Old 02-24-2018, 03:46 PM   #21640
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Does anyone know which wire this yellow/green is? For some reason it has a splitter connector to a brown wire that is 10cm long and goes nowhere?

It's from an S14a with SR20DET that is european, every ecm wiring diagram shows different, so anyone have any idea?
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:17 PM   #21641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
Does anyone know which wire this yellow/green is? For some reason it has a splitter connector to a brown wire that is 10cm long and goes nowhere?

It's from an S14a with SR20DET that is european, every ecm wiring diagram shows different, so anyone have any idea?
If I'm looking at your ECU connector right, looks like pin #4, which would go to the ECU relay. Maybe that tapped wire was used to power an accessory?
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:27 PM   #21642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
If I'm looking at your ECU connector right, looks like pin #4, which would go to the ECU relay. Maybe that tapped wire was used to power an accessory?
Okay thanks for that image, I needed that! Might've been an accessory of some kind, I have no idea.
EDIT: turns out the yellow/green wire is NATS Immobilizer, I just don't know why it is splitted

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Old 03-08-2018, 08:29 AM   #21643
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Are S14 headlight brackets the same on both sides? i.e., Can I just buy 2 of these? Asking because this one says "RH" but I didn't see an "LH" anywhere on the site:

https://frsport.com/Right-Headlamp-B..._p_368851.html
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:46 AM   #21644
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Are S14 headlight brackets the same on both sides? i.e., Can I just buy 2 of these? Asking because this one says "RH" but I didn't see an "LH" anywhere on the site:

https://frsport.com/Right-Headlamp-B..._p_368851.html
Yep probably the same as Silvia S13 brackets where there's only one "side" and it works for both.
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:18 PM   #21645
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Where are you guys getting rear overfenders? And what kind? I'm looking for +30mm coupe rear overs, and just about everything seems out of stock. FrSport has Dmax, but I dont like the rivet recess they have built in.
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:38 PM   #21646
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Where are you guys getting rear overfenders? And what kind? I'm looking for +30mm coupe rear overs, and just about everything seems out of stock. FrSport has Dmax, but I dont like the rivet recess they have built in.
Did you call Touge Factory?
As lame as it sounds, local facebook car groups have a decent marketplace too nowadays. Not sure of brands without some sort of rivet recess tho.
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:35 AM   #21647
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Did you call Touge Factory?
As lame as it sounds, local facebook car groups have a decent marketplace too nowadays. Not sure of brands without some sort of rivet recess tho.
What's wrong with rivet recesses, not using the thinset anywhere on the car before paint?
Rivet, fill and mold in. Smooth looking ride done right
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Old 03-09-2018, 09:38 AM   #21648
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What's wrong with rivet recesses, not using the thinset anywhere on the car before paint?
Rivet, fill and mold in. Smooth looking ride done right
I have no problem with it at all, OP mentioned not liking the recesses.
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Old 03-09-2018, 09:58 AM   #21649
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Are intakes even remotely worth it on a KA24E? Reason I ask, intakes are 'free' in my autocross class and the stock rubber booth at the TB is ripped and apparently an OEM replacement is worth 70$.
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Old 03-09-2018, 01:13 PM   #21650
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Question, my s14 front wheels move out of control on high rpm (5th gear around 2k+).... any idea?
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:11 PM   #21651
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Are intakes even remotely worth it on a KA24E? Reason I ask, intakes are 'free' in my autocross class and the stock rubber booth at the TB is ripped and apparently an OEM replacement is worth 70$.
Silicone coupler.

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Question, my s14 front wheels move out of control on high rpm (5th gear around 2k+).... any idea?
Side to side or up and down? or Float?
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:35 PM   #21652
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Anyone with a hatch have both the miracle x bar and Cusco triangle brace? Curious to see if it's worth it as I already have the x brace

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Old 03-09-2018, 02:49 PM   #21653
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Anyone with a hatch have both the miracle x bar and Cusco triangle brace? Curious to see if it's worth it as I already have the x brace

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Cusco triangle brace is not worth it on the 240sx. IMHO.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:26 PM   #21654
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Cusco triangle brace is not worth it on the 240sx. IMHO.
Yeah. Id figure I'd ask, as I tried picturing any more benefit that the x bar doesn't help with. Plus I forgot to mention I have the do-luck floor bar and a trunk bar, so maybe it'd be overkill haha

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Old 03-09-2018, 06:05 PM   #21655
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Silicone coupler.


Side to side or up and down? or Float?
whats do you mean by float??

It goes side to side and vibrates violently.
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Old 03-10-2018, 07:09 AM   #21656
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Are intakes even remotely worth it on a KA24E? Reason I ask, intakes are 'free' in my autocross class and the stock rubber booth at the TB is ripped and apparently an OEM replacement is worth 70$.
Yes, intake is worth it. Less weight, and better air movement increase hp by a nominal 3 - 7 hp. Less weight is great in any class.

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Question, my s14 front wheels move out of control on high rpm (5th gear around 2k+).... any idea?
This sounds like you are either getting air under the car, or your steering is way out of alignment(cause can be rack, or front suspension parts, or all, but misalignment would seriously show at all speeds.

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Anyone with a hatch have both the miracle x bar and Cusco triangle brace? Curious to see if it's worth it as I already have the x brace

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Bracing triangulates all the rest of the good parts like coil overs, adjustable arms, antisway bars, and new bushings. Squaring the chassis is ALWAYS a good thing, and rigidity in corners is what makes you faster or able to hold a slide longer, or even easier
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Old 03-10-2018, 11:34 AM   #21657
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I bought I strut brace for my S14 but it doesn't fit because it hits this line (not sure what it is, some kind of liquid tank for AC or something?)

Anyone have any suggestions what can I do about this? I loosened the bracket and slid it down but it's not low enough...
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Old 03-10-2018, 11:57 AM   #21658
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I bought I strut brace for my S14 but it doesn't fit because it hits this line (not sure what it is, some kind of liquid tank for AC or something?)

Anyone have any suggestions what can I do about this? I loosened the bracket and slid it down but it's not low enough...
It's the drier for the AC. I would not move it to much. I haven't seen a strut brace that hits it. You sure you don't have the brace backwards?
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Old 03-10-2018, 12:24 PM   #21659
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Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
It's the drier for the AC. I would not move it to much. I haven't seen a strut brace that hits it. You sure you don't have the brace backwards?
I'm not sure how could it be backwards, it's pretty much this exact one but mine has longer "brackets" so they hit the line (I don't have an image of mine rn)
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Old 03-10-2018, 01:17 PM   #21660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
I bought I strut brace for my S14 but it doesn't fit because it hits this line (not sure what it is, some kind of liquid tank for AC or something?)

Anyone have any suggestions what can I do about this? I loosened the bracket and slid it down but it's not low enough...
That's weird, mine is down right next to the radiator. Do you have custom AC work or anything to explain why it's located there? Unless it's one of those odd year to year variances? I see you have an ABS car, doubt that would affect the AC placement though.
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