Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Ilya]

Originally Posted by 1989Ka24de

Thank you very much I’m thinking ignition switch because of the instant dying and no sputtering and starting when it wants too, idk ANYTHING about the coolant temp sensor but I’m going to check the grounds I have already priced a ignition switch so I’m prepared to buy/replace the ignition switch but nothing about the coolant temperature sensor btw, I GREATLY GREATLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR GUYS HELP!!!

Grounds is another good idea. The only chassis ground from battery negative terminal is right by the battery tray which is the first thing to rust to dust in our cars.

[1989Ka24de]

Originally Posted by Ilya

Grounds is another good idea. The only chassis ground from battery negative terminal is right by the battery tray which is the first thing to rust to dust in our cars.

Wow that’s mildly ironic, I had replaced the battery about a month and a half ago RIGHT BEFORE all this started, when I removed the old battery the battery tray is so rusted or ate up with holes it’s a wonder the battery has a place to even rest I was blown away by how rusted/corroded the metal was under it I did see the ground you mentioned but didn’t pay any attention to it AT ALL, I Will be checking that ground for corrosion or loose placement due to the issue I’m having I’ll be honest I never would’ve thought that could have it doing this but at this point anything helps, if it were the ground would it still turn over and crank? Just curious btw Thank you times a million I owe u greatly

[Ilya]

Originally Posted by 1989Ka24de

Wow that’s mildly ironic, I had replaced the battery about a month and a half ago RIGHT BEFORE all this started, when I removed the old battery the battery tray is so rusted or ate up with holes it’s a wonder the battery has a place to even rest I was blown away by how rusted/corroded the metal was under it I did see the ground you mentioned but didn’t pay any attention to it AT ALL, I Will be checking that ground for corrosion or loose placement due to the issue I’m having I’ll be honest I never would’ve thought that could have it doing this but at this point anything helps, if it were the ground would it still turn over and crank? Just curious btw Thank you times a million I owe u greatly

Electrical gremlins are the scariest/weirdest issues. Anything is possible. The higher the rust the more resistance there is the more voltage drop across the resistance the less voltage your electronics see. At that point some electronics might be operating in the "brown" or "gra/ey" region and you cannot predict their response.

Take an volt meter and measure the voltage drop or resistance from every engine bay ground to the negative terminal of the battery. Anything higher than an ohm is suspect or whatever the fsm says. Ideally the resistance would be zero, so the closer to zero you are the better

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Would you happen to have the part numbers?

11920N
11950-71E10
Belt-Compressor
F/AIR CONDITIONER-STD TYPE
Replaced by:
11950-71E11
$22.97
$16.67

11720N
11720-26E02
Belt-Fan & Alternator
Replaced by:
A172M-26ESBVW
$17.67
$12.83

11950N
11950-53F10
Belt-Power Steering Oil Pump
Replaced by:
A195M-53FSMVW
$19.63
$14.25

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

11920N
11950-71E10
Belt-Compressor
F/AIR CONDITIONER-STD TYPE
Replaced by:
11950-71E11
$22.97
$16.67

11720N
11720-26E02
Belt-Fan & Alternator
Replaced by:
A172M-26ESBVW
$17.67
$12.83

11950N
11950-53F10
Belt-Power Steering Oil Pump
Replaced by:
A195M-53FSMVW
$19.63
$14.25

Thank you!! You're the man!

[theStig880]

Im switching to the z32 rear ebrake and I was wondering if R33 cables would work with an S13. I know Z32 2+2 cables are the more bolt in solution but I can get new R33 cables for a decent bit less. Are they too long or do they work?

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by theStig880

Im switching to the z32 rear ebrake and I was wondering if R33 cables would work with an S13. I know Z32 2+2 cables are the more bolt in solution but I can get new R33 cables for a decent bit less. Are they too long or do they work?

Yep you can use them.

http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm#ebrake

[theStig880]

^^^ Good to hear, thanks man

[Reece]

Is JSpec.com now defunct?

[CrimsonRockett]

Originally Posted by Reece

Is JSpec.com now defunct?

Sam (owner of Jspec) just doesn't have the time to keep up with Jspec anymore.

He does still have quite a few parts in storage. If you're interested in anything, I'd be more than happy to relay the message to him.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by th3manny

I found an s15 wing for sale in my area and i was wondering how it would look on an s14. I've never seen the combo before. Sorry if this is posted in the wrong area, I'm new to this forum.

Dunno about a 14 but I have one on my hatch with the middle stand deleted

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Reece]

Originally Posted by CrimsonRockett

Sam (owner of Jspec) just doesn't have the time to keep up with Jspec anymore.

He does still have quite a few parts in storage. If you're interested in anything, I'd be more than happy to relay the message to him.

That would be wonderful. I saw lots of things on his site that I would buy immediately.

[theStig880]

Does anyone happen to know how thick z32 tt hub flanges are? The bit that sticks out and spaces the ebrake anchor out? I've got a z32 tt ebrake assembly with the thinner anchors so I wanted to make sure they were spaced out correctly on my s13.

[Jacob Butler]

with the tps unplugged it should make the car idle smooth right? Also with the tps unplugged you shouldn't be able to rev it right? Because with the tps unplugged my cars idle still fluctuates and i can still rev it. Does this mean my tps is bad?

[derass]

Originally Posted by theStig880

Does anyone happen to know how thick z32 tt hub flanges are? The bit that sticks out and spaces the ebrake anchor out? I've got a z32 tt ebrake assembly with the thinner anchors so I wanted to make sure they were spaced out correctly on my s13.

about 0.25"

but maybe someone can measure exactly for you

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

with the tps unplugged it should make the car idle smooth right? Also with the tps unplugged you shouldn't be able to rev it right? Because with the tps unplugged my cars idle still fluctuates and i can still rev it. Does this mean my tps is bad?

You can still rev it with no tps, you’re opening the throttle and adding more air to the engine, more air means rpms increase, that’s how an engine works.

[Jacob Butler]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

You can still rev it with no tps, you’re opening the throttle and adding more air to the engine, more air means rpms increase, that’s how an engine works.

ok thanks for the reply, somewhere i heard someone say as soon as you touch the gas it will die. As for the idle whenever i see people doing ignition timing they unplug the tps. My understanding of that was to ensure a steady idle. So should I be seeing a steady idle with it unplugged?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

ok thanks for the reply, somewhere i heard someone say as soon as you touch the gas it will die. As for the idle whenever i see people doing ignition timing they unplug the tps. My understanding of that was to ensure a steady idle. So should I be seeing a steady idle with it unplugged?

Unplugging the tps locks in timing so that you can adjust the base mechanical timing. During idle, the ecu is constantly bouncing timing around to keep the engine running.

[Jacob Butler]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Unplugging the tps locks in timing so that you can adjust the base mechanical timing. During idle, the ecu is constantly bouncing timing around to keep the engine running.

So if the timing is locked in, and i can still rev the car, wouldn't the timing be all off when i rev it?

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

So if the timing is locked in, and i can still rev the car, wouldn't the timing be all off when i rev it?

Yes, except that it's a lot smarter than you are, so it knows it doesn't have a TPS, and to TRY to not do anything that might make big holes in your engine - but nissans are pretty bad about engine holes, and you seem to be determined...

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Yes, except that it's a lot smarter than you are, so it knows it doesn't have a TPS, and to TRY to not do anything that might make big holes in your engine - but nissans are pretty bad about engine holes, and you seem to be determined...

It's a 240. Sledgehammer. By now you are tired of replacing worn parts, trying to get it to run reliably, and troubleshooting ECU and other ghost problems with a raman budget, sledgehammer.

Now that you are laughing, go download the fms and get to figuring it out

[Jacob Butler]

the tps was out of adjustment. Ive adjusted it and now when i unplug the tps the car just stops idling, making it hard to set base timing. What would cause it to stop idling with tps unplugged?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

the tps was out of adjustment. Ive adjusted it and now when i unplug the tps the car just stops idling, making it hard to set base timing. What would cause it to stop idling with tps unplugged?

What voltage did you adjust it to with throttle closed?

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

[Jacob Butler]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

What voltage did you adjust it to with throttle closed?

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

I set it 0.49 volts, it was at like .9 before I got to it and it set my idle right at 750. But once the tps gets unplugged it won't hold an idle.

[whosawmike]

I have an S13 Silvia that I am doing an RB25 neo swap in. I want to keep AC. I have 1.5" between the rad and engine, so i don't think a puller is an option (I will loose the AC before I cut the rad support).

Can I get away with mounting a high flow pusher in front of the condenser?

This is not a track car, so the most it will see is spirited runs on back roads. I also don't see much stop and go traffic where I live.

I have a Mishimoto KA radiator and the stock AC condenser. I will buy air diversion panels if needed.

Thanks for the help!

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

I set it 0.49 volts, it was at like .9 before I got to it and it set my idle right at 750. But once the tps gets unplugged it won't hold an idle.

Do you shut engine off, unplug, then restart engine; or are you unplugging the TPS while the engine is running? Also is car warmed up when you're doing this? Make sense your engine shuts off if you unplug while running since the ECU thinks something broke while running.

At this point with the questions you're asking, I would highly recommend you download the FSM and start there. You'll wan't the "EC" (engine control) pages to start. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/

[VTEC_lol]

I have 20mm spacers that I'd want to put on since my front offset is kinda bad and my wheels will hit the calipers, but I've recently put extended eibach studs and with 20mm spacers the studs won't allow my wheel to fit. My wheels are dual pattern so that's why this is an issue for me.
The question is that is it safe to "enlarge" the other pattern holes (like drilling or something) in order to fit the wheel? I mean it only touches the wheel like a few millimeters so slightly enlargening the threads would allow the wheel to fit right?
The extended studs are new and I wouldn't want to damage them, but the wheel I don't mind since I'll never use the other pattern or resell the wheels.
Or any other idea how I could fit the wheel?

[dorkidori_s13]

drilling hubs is no big deal... lots of off road guys do it. if i were you, id PAY a shop to bore the centers PROPERLY instead of doing it yourself. this way the damn hub will stay centric

[derass]

I think he's talking about bolt-on spacers, and the stock studs are protruding past the spacer and interfering with the wheel. You need 25+mm to "cover up" the stock studs.

There shouldn't be the problem OP is describing with extended studs and slip-on spacers. I just can't picture how.

With all that being said, and if it's a bolt-on spacer issue, go ahead and clearance the 2nd bolt pattern.

Stock studs protruding past a bolt-on wheel spacer:


Stock studs recessed into a bolt-on wheel spacer:


Slip-on wheel spacer with extended studs:

[Jacob Butler]

[QUOTE=LoSt180;6254494]Do you shut engine off, unplug, then restart engine; or are you unplugging the TPS while the engine is running? Also is car warmed up when you're doing this? Make sense your engine shuts off if you unplug while running since the ECU thinks something broke while running.

At this point with the questions you're asking, I would highly recommend you download the FSM and start there. You'll wan't the "EC" (engine control) pages to start. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/[/QIf

If i unplug it while its running it will stop idling. If i shut the engine off, unplug it, then start the engine, it runs as if I never unplugged it. My car idles poorly and this also makes it hard to set base timing. Yes the car is warmed up when i do this. I checked out the fsm and I have not found anything that describes my problem. I have found stuff that will help me fix my idle but i would like to set base timing first. I have also tested the tps itself and it tested good except the drops to 0 right before you reach full throttle then it goes to 4 volts.(I thought it should be 5 but the fsm says it can be around 4.) But i don't think that will affect idle. Thank you for the suggestions. car is a 1990 with ka24e btw