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Old 07-21-2013, 05:42 PM   #331
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Love the dump pipes
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No because I don't want to do another 5 lug conversion.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:28 PM   #332
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I don't know if i've posted this or not yet but I ran into a slight hic-up.

My clutch was having slight problems and I couldn't figure it out after adjusting it multiple times. Pulled it and my discs are SHOT. Exedy Twin Cerametallic discs front and rear measured 1.5-1.3...YIKES wayyyy past the replacement limit. So I shopped around and found an excellent price for two replacement disks and an intermediate plate. The intermediate plate was only showing the slightest bit of step...but I figured while I was in there I might as well replace it since it was only 150 extra. The two replacement discs cost me 480 shipped...which is a slamming deal.. and with the intermediate plate it came to 630 shipped. The price of an ACT extreme set up. But you know what... The clutch feels amazing and is one of the best aftermarket clutches i've ever felt without sacrificing major differences etc. SO i'll be installing the disks as soon as they come in, and i'm looking forward to breaking them in. I also got more sheet aluminum from my Local Lowes so I could complete my Two Oil Cooler Ducts. I originally wanted to make the cooler ducts stick out as much as possible to catch as much air and guide it into the coolers but due to bumper restrictions and clearance I had to sacrifice some length overall just to make them fit correctly without looking all goofy. The end results are still good and I'm very happy with them both.
On to the pics!:

Here is what I used to mock the ducts



After I have all my mock cardboard cut out I test fit it with the bumper on. Anything that rubs will bend or smash and you simply trim it to fit. After all the pieces fit I stencil them onto the sheet alum and cut them out with my Angle Grinder.... Yea I've become damn good at cutting with that thing. Not gonna lie...I impress myself sometimes haha. Here is the first cut out

Then I tape the first piece into place and clamp each additional piece to fit to the tightest clearance. This way you can be sure that when you bolt it all up it'll really fit like a glove and do the job it was intended to do.
Once a piece is clamped on.....I VERY carefully remove it from the oil cooler and make Perm marker marks and Rivet it into place. The perm marker is just there for double checking....to make sure that the pieces didn't move. If they move...it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
Here are some clamp and bend pics:


finished!

And mounted

Drivers side

Put a little left over Baker Heat Shielding on for protection


And My Power Steering Cooler came in. Unsure where to mount it as of right now...but I'll find somewhere clever ;-)


Updates soon!
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:50 PM   #333
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Soo many coolers lol
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No because I don't want to do another 5 lug conversion.
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:56 PM   #334
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Quote:
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it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
stealing this for my new sig.
as always, your work is nothing short of impressive.
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it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:42 AM   #335
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F'n amazing build.
thought it was cool...

even cooler now since I noticed the Trash Talk decal
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:25 PM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7x13 View Post
F'n amazing build.
thought it was cool...

even cooler now since I noticed the Trash Talk decal
haha cool man, the group of guys are rad. All for the same reason...as most of us are!

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Originally Posted by brndck View Post
stealing this for my new sig.
as always, your work is nothing short of impressive.
Haha I patted myself on the back after you pasted it. It's soo true though. Let me jank it 20 times over and waste 3x the money than just doing it right...one time...finished=drive. I like building the car..but I love driving it and hitting the track more than my car being down every other week. I'm building it so that I can avoid that to the best of my ability. Can't wait to change my Upper Intake Manifold/Throttle Body and Elbow.. THen back to Nelson for the final tune this year. Then e85!!!

But really.. I think everyone has final HP numbers in their head for the sake of pride.. but really... people under estimate how quick a 300 whp 270wtq car is... especially on the track. My car is fast at 300whp. WHen I go for the re-tune without the flow restriciton it'll have 400-450whp. It's going to make my hands shake because It's been since I stood on the throttle ya know? Anyways... Looking forward to getting her going soon here. Need a Throttle Body Gasket and a new charge tube and i'll be back in business.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:10 AM   #337
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Small Update:

Well I've been slightly out of the loop with everything and after the car didn't make the power It should have....some other un-enthusiast stuff (life Happened) and I had to shift priorities for a few weeks there. Always have respect for the death and loved ones lost. It is not directly related to me but my best friend.....Girlfriend lost her grandmother a few weeks ago and so we've been kind of dealing with that. THings have been slowly brewing though.

I got a Care package in the mail thanks to the wonderful Full Function Engineering......Once again..Blown away with the quality and customer service of this company. They will forever be my first choice for accessories!! I know some of you have seen them but Introducing their new Billit Aluminum Height Adjustable Motor Mounts. These things are just the "cream of the crop."

Full Function Engineering height Adjustable Alum Motor Mounts: also my 2 brand new Exedy ceremetallic clutch discs and intermediate plate.

And Exhaust muffler came in as well. Nothing ooober special but nice and simple and hopefully as "under the radar as 4" can be..
Vibrant 4" inlet to dual 3" outlets


I also needed to get a sealed battery box for the track. I chose the Moroso nhra sealed battery box because I don't like metal things. It's some type of poly-whogives a hell material but it's a nice solid unit and came with all hardware as well as 3/8 bolts for the battery tie down and a clear vent tube. So I got to work installing it behind my passenger seat.

Moroso sealed batter box

Now there was a problem... the box was much larger than I had though and I didn't want to put it in the trunk... so I had to use more 3/8 bolts to raise the front end of it to fit. So the back side of the box is literally sitting on the angled sheet metal of the fram (passenger side bin area) and the front of the battery box is elevated roughly 5-7 inches..being held up in the air by the threaded bolts and nuts. there are 4 nuts securing the bolts. One on the bottom underneath the car sheet metal along with a large washer. One on top as well...accompanied by another washer... the necessary rise...then 3rd Nut/washer..the battery box and a washer/Nut on the inside. The damn thing doesn't budge. It seems VERY secure..so hopefully no one at the track says anything about it. Anyways...here's the install:

The vent through the bottom of the car



finished!




And on to other related things. someone asked what side skirts i'm using. They're knock off Mazda speed units from Bodykits.com They fit like doooo...thanks for your interest haha. I cut them quite a bit just to look decent. My body/paint guy will eventually fix them all.

The flow restriction. Still not certain of what it was. I looked at everything and I don't know if it was the Throttle body or what.....maybe the runner length of the uim didn't favor the set boost or whatever it was I still do not know. I've pulled the motor for some un-finished business and upgrades little agitating things I rushed....such as multiple grounds. I'm cleaning the engine bay, installing my new Full Function Engineering adjustable Motor Mounts, New Clutch disks and intermediate plate, AEM Fuel pressure gauge, Innovate TC-4 so I can log my EGT's, Switching back to the OEM UIM/TB/TPS/R-works Elbow and hitting the dyno again. I want to square away my Mechanicals before I even think about paint or body. Can't get ahead of myself. But Thats where I'm at right now. Waiting to get my Intercooler tube to T/B elbow with BOV fabbed up and then she all goes back together. Stay tuned guys!! Thanks for the Support!!
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:05 PM   #338
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Shits amazing man!

keep it up!
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:57 AM   #339
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Update:

Wellllll Back onto the beat. I was working some 15 hour days for the past week or so... don't even know how long.....actually I believe it was 9 days in a row. When you work like that...it really feels as if you never left your job. Wake up at 5:45...work from 6:45 to 3pm..then haul Aceeee to my other job and clock in at 4:15..and work to 11:30pm. Seems like one continuous shift and you never really feel like you clocked out haha. But It's nice at the same time because you get a hefty pay day and before you know it...the 9 day span is over. :icon_tup:

ANYWAYS!

I decided to swap my IRP poly motor mounts out for the new Full Function Engineering Height Adjustable Motor mounts and Billit Arms. I'm running their aftermarket Trigger Kit, Both Primary and Secondary rails, and i'll most likely purchase whatever they develop next. It's awesome that all of their products are so high quality and I think its rad that a newer company is still developing new high quality products for a 20 year old chassis. Mad Props to these guys!!:icon_tup:

The mounts came with hardware and they installed very easily. The install was straight forward if you've ever installed motor mounts, but if you havn't you may want to do a little research, but practically anyone can install these if you've ever turned a wrench before. I chose to keep the OEM height.....which is the Middle height hole just to make sure that my Intercooler lined up with my turbo outlet.

Here are some pics of the install:

Bare motor

They look so nice man.....sooo nice.. All bolt holes line up nice and they even included a large hex drive for the bolts so you don't have to run out and scramble for tools :icon_tup:

Here you can see the height adjustable brackets the Mounts come with... I had them on the lowest setting but ended up changing them to the middle one for OEM height just so I didn't run into any problems. I can most likely run the lowest setting if I pull my IC spacers out and just run the doh doh's. I'll experiment when I have time:icon_tup:

I also installed my new Exedy Twin Disc Cerametallic discs and Intermediate plate... Got them for a slamming deal too.. if anyone needs replacement discs just pm me and i'll give you who I went through. But there is no lower price shipped:icon_tup:

^^^My Baker Fire sleeve came in as well, so I covered my Oil cooler feed line as it runs and sits up against a few other lines. Better safe than sorry!:icon_tup:

I've also been wanting to install my AEM digital Fuel Pressure gauge and sensor. I wasn't sure where I should install it but realized that I should put it right at the source, so I got a brass fitting from amazon for some 3 bucks or so and installed it on my Fuel Pressure Regulator. The "T" fitting screws right in and the fuel pressure gauge sensor plugs into the bottom port while the Original Gauge faces forward. I think I may be needing a new gauge though because the one I have was leaking some jelly crap:scratch:
This is a bad picture but here's what it looks like after the install

Here is the Digital gauge inside the cabin installed. I'm glad I left room for the extra gauge.... Fits well and I love Digital gauges. I hate looking at old school analog needles and lines. I just want to be able to look and instantly know what my fuel pressure, egt's, and AFR's are. :icon_tup: Came out nice though:icon_tup:

THEN once again....for the third time... I had to cut my Oil filler neck. Since I am switching back to the OEM UIM it fit....but to fill it I would need to move my cast elbow and that is just plain stupid. SO I cut it and my buddy DAN at a new race car shop out here called GS-Werks Welded it up for me. Angled it in towards the P/S unit.

Bad quality pic warning

I also took the time to cover the long Oil cooler line from my primary oil cooler to the second Passenger side oil cooler as well. A lot of my Electrical sits right up against it and last thing I want is to start having some intermittent electrical because of lack of "care."


And then it was time to fill her up with coolant and Oil. My Radiator bleed worked like a Charm,...shout out to my buddy Phillip Stewart for the Idea. The system is a breeze to bleed now. Don't even really need the Lisle Funnel..but I used it anyways. So I hooked up all my electrical plugs. Did a fuel leak test by simply turning on my fuel pumps....listening and looking with a flash light, and looking under the car.....and all was good. Primmed the whole system, and cranked her without fuel pressure to get some oil pressure going and once again it was crank time.
Here's my start up again haha. Had to use ghetto throttle line bracket mcguiver channel lock system to mount the throttle cable till my bracket comes in.. But she fires right up no problem. Hopefully this video works:

20130902_132956_zpsb3d5b66f.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
if not try this one

I forgot to say...I switched back to an OEM TPS so I wired that in correctly and calibrated it in seconds with the Adaptronic Software before the first start.

It was nice to pull the motor again because I was able to clean all the little things I left un-prioritized up. no grime or dirt anywhere now, which is always a plus.

You can also thank Jaime Gonzales for painting the throttle body gold. What a jerk... I'll clean it up when I apply the gold heat reflective to the underside of the UIM.

So that leaves one thing left. I need to have a charge pipe fabbed up. Which really shouldn't be to hard or time consuming. I have aluminum tube and i'll probly cut it myself in my garage and take it to someone to have welded up.
Here's the section that I need to have done:

So I took her for a nice little test drive up the street and back. Sounds great, no leaks, no over-heating, no air in system... so i'm loving it. I did have to replace my battery though. The car had a weak crank so I had to hook up the charger. After I got back from the test drive the car died in the drive way and I was unable to start it again without a jump from my trusty prius. This battery had been giving me problems so I took it back to autozone and got a fresh one with the warranty. Luckily they switched it out no questions asked and the fresh battery turned the starter nice and fast.
Here are some random pics




That leaves me to the current. I have a full fd-legal cage appointment set for the last week of this month. But I'm not sure If I want to keep it or prolong it and go get the car tuned. I need to break in the clutch....so if anyone has the correct method and doesn't mind sharing please let me know. Otherwise i'll search it haha. But I was told to rev her out to 4k and do 3 10 Second long clutch slips, and that should do it.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:00 PM   #340
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ohhh and I need an alignment BAD.. but i'm pretty much at my desired ride height. Passenger side rear is going to drop about a quarter inch but that's about it.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:24 PM   #341
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I love this build...
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:34 PM   #342
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Aaron get a fucking better camera. Im going to rape you if you don't ( you understand me). Need hi res pics ..

I still love you though and your car makes me so hard
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:56 AM   #343
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Idk why but that video put a smile on my face... I guess it kinda reminded me of F&F Tokyo Drift when they pull up in the RX7 and the idle sounds like sexxx
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Old 09-06-2013, 01:48 PM   #344
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Thanks guys!!

Adam... I have one..but my cell is so much more handy. Maybe i'll start using it since I got a new Lap-Top and it's a cinch to uplaod now.. Anyways..

SMall Update:

Was able to get the hood back on....I needed Hood-pins installed so I picked up some Aero-Catch Hood pins. Measured everything out and started cutting. I don't know.... but the install took me a good 4 hours to complete. It was a process because the CF hood needed some major dremmeling to get the backing plates of the pins in the correct position. But the end result came out nice...check it out:



I still need to adjust my Headlight buckets just a tad as one of them is almost under the hood on the inside edge.


and then this happened when I was aligning the Gates to the hood holes. I seriously loosened it just fine...then as soon as there was the SLIGHTEST bit of tension the bolt snapped...
SOAB



I called Synapse and the guy was nice...said he'd send me a new clamp for free if I pay shipping. But I think i'm over T-bolt clamps.. I'd rather have the turbosmart style clamps with the Allen head bolts. I'll do more research and see if they'd even fit.

More Updates soon!
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Old 09-06-2013, 01:57 PM   #345
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DUDE! awesome update, shes coming along great, i love your detailed updates i cant wait to see this thing wide open throttle .

I can totally relate to the work thing 2 jobs isnt no joke but have to stay on the grind. keep it up, she looks like a beast.
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Old 09-08-2013, 03:00 PM   #346
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Yea man, those are long work days but well worth the pay checks. Hows your car coming along? any new Updates?!!
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:39 PM   #347
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Just a little Update:

Spent some time cleaning up a lot of little things here and there.

Here is the view from the bumper opening. Still have plenty of room for brake ducts on either side of the radiator/Intercooler duct work.

I also went and got an Alignment at "The Tire Store." 95 bucks plus a tire swap mount and balance. Not bad. Got the car driving straight. I used the following specs for my alignment.

-2 Front Camber
+8 Front Caster
-.5 rear camber
1/8" rear toe in

Thanks to John Markely (JBF) for helping me out with specs. Also, my guy was unable to get +8 Caster up front because of limitations with the oem arms... But he was able to get +7.5... which I was completely fine with.

This was right before we dropped it down another 1/4"

I also had my Vibrant 4" in Dual 3" outs Muffler v-banded so I could run an actual exhaust and hopefully quiet the car down a bit...okok...a whole lot. Here is the Video of it installed and idling.
20130920_163632_zps9b48d8cf.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
or this if that doesn't work
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid804.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fyy325%2Fmannykiller%2FFD%2520Build%2F 20130920_163632_zps9b48d8cf.mp4">

And since I ended up changing my WHole Intake set up I had to re-weld in my water/Meth injection nozzle. Had BJ weld in the previous hole in the Rotary Works TB and He built up some Alum at the desired angle so we could drill and tap it for the AEM nozzle.
Doing a little bit of drilling...

you can see the filled port right to the lower right of the new hole


and Nozzle position

And it's hard to tell but the nozzle is pointed directly at the center of the elbow....should work just fine...I hope ;-)

Other than that....Now that i'm able to drive the car without alerting the authorities within a 3 mile Radius....I put about 200 miles on the car this past weekend. Running the car through multiple surrounding canyons, street, and even on the freeway. I've kept the car below 5K RPM and only ever use partial throttle because of the difference in Intake length, quicker response with OEM TB/UIM etc.

Also, I've done a compression check and All seems in great shape...especially since these are 1 pc Ceramic Seals. I'm excited to get back on the dyno and put some power down to the ground. I have no leaks, my Triumph Fast Acting AIT sensor is calibrated correctly thanks to Mr. Josh W. I hate to boast....but at this point...I can honestly say that this is by FAR the best heat managed fd I've ever been in to date ;-) Temps are Always in check. For instance... This past weekend it was 95 degrees F outside. I have a very steep graded 3 mile (about 1 1/2mile up hill & down-hill) canyon pass close to my house..so I decided to do a little test. Put the car into 4th gear and cruised bogged the whole way up. Logged Temps and never saw over 90 Degrees Celsius. If I would've attempted the same thing with my orginal koyo, front mount... even with speed and water injection.... I would've been at 95 degrees C. I'm super pumped, because this means I can stay on track longer... run a few more laps, ..worry about my next initiation and clipping point rather than nervously watching my Water temp gauge and staying off the throttle.. Staying cool is by far something I've tried my hardest to "Get in check." And I won't completely know until I get a full track day under my belt....but so far...2 dyno sessions and the beat of the street hasn't trumped anything yet. More Updates soon... Stay Tuned!!
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:31 PM   #348
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Damn everything looks great! keep it up
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:04 PM   #349
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lol, BJ weld
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:32 PM   #350
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Amazing build!! Can't wait for the final product!!!
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:30 AM   #351
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soooooo small update: Scare...

I had a small scare... I was still having problems with my clutch. I bled it a few times and it would be ok at first but eventually it would start to get worse and worse. So I ordered a new Master cylinder from O'reillys. 78 bucks with lifetime warranty..can't beat that. Installed it and found that my old clutch master had a small crack in the plastic fitting that goes to the reservoir. Bled the new one and all the sudden my car had a perfectly solid Clutch pedal action. It was great. THEN I turned the battery on and turned the key.. the car cranked twice....then lights off... then I looked up confused and saw wafts of smoke. Hit the kill switch and jumped out of the car...opened the hood and saw smoke coming from the coil area right where i'd just installed the Clutch master cylinder. Pulled the coils out to inspect them.....and noticed a completely bare wire that should've had some type of shrink on it...it used to be white... and then I followed it...to find that I had accidently pinched the wire...not even fully but just by a hair... between the clutch master cylinder and the firewall of the car. It must've grounded out and it fried about 10 Inches of the wire all the way to the plug. The plug hooks up to the OEM igniter but with my AEM smart coils this hooks up for the direct fire configuration. I snipped the wire and removed it and re soldered in a nice piece of wire... heat shrank the two open splice spots and hooked everything up again...making sure not to pinch anything in the process. Checked my Harness fuses and the coil harness fuse didn't blow..so that's a good sign. Checked my Ignition harness and the 30 AMP fuse popped...as well as another 30 AMp in the main fuse box on the drivers side wheel well popped as well. Replaced them both and the car started up just fine. Was still a bit weary as the car could still start with a bad coil or two. So I took it for a nice little drive to the gas station and back. Drove fine...Logged my drive just to take a look to see if anything looked different...as far as Air/Fuel...(Rich where I previously wasn't) And I didn't notice anything different. I guess I should pull the plugs just to make sure that everything is firing but right now I think it's safe to say everything is just fine. I am overly happy for these fuses though.. a stupid simple and pretty common mistake could've cost me a whole lot more than 2 30 AMP fuses... could've fried the coils and been out 200 bucks. I'll do the manual plug check later today. But That was my scare.... so for people reading this. Just be diligent and take your time. I was in a rush because I was supposed to meet my girlfriend to watch the dodger game at a local bar... really....I could've just waited till after and I wouldn't have made the mistake because I would've been taking my time. But since I was rushed and trying to be all Fast pit crew status...I made a mistake and luckily it didn't bite my ass. But Just wanted to emphasis that we should all take our time on the simple tasks and stop rushing. Anyways...Moving on...
Heres the new Clutch Master Cylinder from Oreillys:

And I'm not sure where I should place my Power Steering cooler. I don't want it under the car because it seems a little too delicate for that...but I don't want it to be too bulky and look stupid sitting on top of the motor etc. Here are a few different options:

Wedged in the gap closer to the drivers side wheel well




I also finally finished my Second Catch Can line to vent the motor from both sides. Both are -6AN i'm using the OEM drain on the passenger side of the motor, and the Drivers side oil fill neck.

And I went and saw Between the Buried and Me this past sunday... love this band so much


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Old 10-04-2013, 03:39 PM   #352
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Holy fuck you saw BTBAM. Damn.

Also, awesome build.
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Yeah bro sometimes I drift on my way to algebra class, too.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:43 PM   #353
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This just became my favorite thread.

4in exhaust piping?
DAMN
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:28 PM   #354
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Can't wait for your tune
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No because I don't want to do another 5 lug conversion.
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:01 PM   #355
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Yes! 4" all the way back then I'm using a V-banded 4"in -dual 3" out Vibrant Muffler
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:58 PM   #356
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I just read our whole thread today.. Mind=Blown! Such an over the top build with everything being top notch and nothing half-assed. Hope to see some videos of this car being driven hard soon!
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:28 PM   #357
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Hey guys Updates soon! on the more professional side.....check out my New Company!! It's like quibids but better because its all Automotive. Would like to eventually move into Aftermarket wheels and the such as well...and auction off top brand wheels like rays/volk, Advan, Work etc!!!

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or our facebook page
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:32 PM   #358
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Update: The true nature of the beast.


Hey there guys, so I just wanted to update everyone as to what is going on with the build. So I'll lay it all out for you guys.

The first time hitting the dyno there were in fact complications. There were no mechanical failures and everything checked out fine. The shop did a compression check...and The motor had 90/89 compression front and rear with these NRS ceramic 3mm one piece seals from the get go...AND after the shop did a compression check. While on the dyno, my tuner was running into a problem where he would lose contact with the ECU at around 5200 RPM. And then around 5500 he was getting ignition break up. We changed the plugs but didn't have any success. I decided to take the car home an hour and 45min haul back to the desert. My tuner said fix it and bring it back. I got the car home and couldn't seem to find any problems. I went through my entire ignition system and everything checked out good...then I figured maybe the plugs were bad. So I started to pull them and immediately realized that my plug wires were in fact crossed. I was on the dyno that first session the entire time running on 2 plugs. The shop hand had changed my plugs and done a compression check and he mixed the wires up..even though they're labelled! But I still wasn't sure why my tuner was losing communication on the dyno with the ecu... So I contacted elliot from turblown and he said to make a couple safe pulls..log them and send them over. We changed a setting on the map sensor sothat it was "Always filtering but we definitely weren't running into the same problem. And I wasn't sure what he was even talking about since there was no comm loss on my logs even before I had contacted Elliot. So I contacted Andy from Adaptronic and he said to make sure my tuner was using the correct firmware. I sent him an e-mail telling him his shop hand crossed my plugs and that he needed to download the correct firmware for hte adaptronic software. I also asked him about flat rate prices since I had spent 600 already and my secondaries still were not staged. I got no reply so i called him and asked him to discuss the same thing and he kinda put me off about it and just moved onto the next tuning session. . Skip forward a couple weeks and I head back down there. This time I change plugs before hand and make sure everything is working correctly. Were on the dyno for 2 hours and my tuner calls me over and tells me he's having the same communication problem with the ecu. The first thing I say is "did you upgrade the firmware?" ...he says "what firmware." And i shook my head and repeated how I had sent him the link so all he had to do was click on it and save it to desk-top, load it on the adaptronic start page and he wouldn't have the comm problem. So we switch to my lap top and what do you know... NO communication error and everything is just fine. So the tuner is doing some pulls and is working on drivability and after one such pull the car doesn't start for 35 min. Crank crank crank..with no turn-over. He finally gets it started and makes a couple more pulls and pulls me aside and says "So the car is about 60whp short of where it should be compared to other cars I've tuned at the same boost pressure." The car made 298 whp and 269 Tq @ 11 lbs of boost pressure. He said I should've been up at 350-380 with this turbo and ported motor. I agreed. He then said we can crank up the boost and see what it does or you do whatever I'd like. I opted to leave it the way it was... take it home and see what the problem was. So I got the car home and guess what. It's hard starting and compression is low. Well that sucks. So I send the motor back to Howard coleman and the guy rebuilds my motor at a very very fairly discounted price. Excellent customer service! So skip forward and I have the motor back within a week....yes thats right....ONE WEEK and howard had the motor back to me with a detailed spec sheet of all my parts. This motor had great compression. I changed UIM's because the dyno was showing a flow restriction at around 5600 rpm... So I figured i'd put an oem one on and change back after the car was tuned to see if we hit the same problem...this would save money. Anyways....

Gotta run... I'll continue the story asap
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:29 PM   #359
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dang dude. im glad you're motor problem was some what solved. this sounds like a huge headache. But i hope the next dyne run go's good.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:42 PM   #360
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Update Continued: "The Nature of the beast"

So I got the motor back and got everything installed. The new OEM UIM set up was installed and a couple small things were changed. The first was the Install of the Innovate Tc-4. I installed it so that I could now Log my EGT's. I truly believe that there are advantages of having closely matched egt's. Balance is important and like I said has a part in longevity. It just makes sense that if both egt's are constantly within say 10-15 Degree's of each other then things are in balance. You won't have one side of the motor doing more or less work than the other. Anyways.. I go the motor running and put right over 400 Miles on the fresh rebuild. Changed the oil as advised by my new tuner to Royal Purple synthetic 20/50 and swapped the plugs to new ones. Took her around the block and filled her up with a nice fresh tank of 91 Octane from a very busy gas station near by. Pre-mixed 1.3 Ounces per gallon and took the car home and did a compression check. Motor was on the mark and the new compression numbers were 98/101. Good stuff.. trailered the car and was awaiting the tuning session in the morning in Valencia California at a shop called Creations and Chrome. This shop was absolutely gorgeous. Professional, Clean, you name it.....they are by far the nicest shop/dyno tuning facility I've ever been to. They even have a motorcycle specific dyno on site just for those "biker Boys." I want to Personally Thank Gary for opening up the dyno for me on sunday. They've definitely won me over as a life long customer.

We loaded up my car on the dyno so we could get ready to rock as soon as my tuner got there. This picture.....means a lot to me. Because I've worked so hard to get to this point. WHen I first purchased this car..I knew very little about the rotary in general. Although I've pulled motors etc before... this was going to be the first time I did everything on my own. Here is IMO one of the best shots of my car. Because this machine was ready to perform.


On this dyno...there were two large fans...we used the smaller more direct snail fan for my radiator and the Large traditional 4 ft fan to blow overall. Although I havn't had any problems keeping cool even on boosted runs the previous dyno session.... It was nice to have the extra cfm's. We got started and instantly my tuner got the idle VERY smooth. I couldn't believe how much better it idle'd initially. My tuner did some drivability cruising but didn't do any full pulls. The session was going smooth. We got to the point where it was time to get into boost but as advised I pulled my tuner to the side and asked him if we could double check the timing before we get into boost. I wanted to make sure everything was spot on. We hooked up the timing light and found that timing was advanced to 37 Degrees?! My tuner was appalled and said that was ridiculous. So we started resetting it...and found out that my front housing leading coil was not firing. As some of you guys may know... a week and a half ago...or so I installed a new clutch master cylinder. I pinched an ignition wire and ended up popping a couple fuses. This is exactly why I wanted to double check. Could I have checked at home and avoided all of this? yes.. lazy? YES..Did I learn my lesson? Absolutely. I found out my coil wasn't firing and I immediately told the tuner it wasn't a problem and I have a buddy in town that would most likely let me borrow one of his since we run the same set up. ...even if he wasn't available or didn't want to lend it to me...I could have a new smart coil in the car in 4 days. So I said.."hey i'll get a new coil and we can be back on the dyno by Thursday or Friday." My tuner said..."well lets do this..as soon as it starts breaking up, i'll just let out." I said...are you sure man? He said "yea, i'll do a partial throttle run just to see where it's at, and once it starts breaking up i'll back out." So since I don't tune....and he does. Although my gut instinct said stop and take the car home...fix it and bring it back when it's 100%.. I said ok. So he starts walking away..and I said....."Hey, do you want me to pull 12V off of my Mac valve so we just run straight WG spring pressure?" He said "Whats it at?" I said..."I have no idea, but I do know the wastegate springs are set at 14lbs." He said....nah don't worry about it. So the pull...
Aaron dyno pull - YouTube

And Yea..some of you guys may know... doesn't sound good eh? Well it wasn't. The car was running on one rotor on Decel off that run....and my tunning session was over. I got the car home... did a quick compression check although I already knew...and it showed 0. Needle didn't even move =nice. Didn't even bother checking front housing compression. Closed the hood and went to dinner with my lovely girlfriend to get my mind off my expensive as shit piece of garbage. Woke up the next morning and decided to pull her to see the extent of the damage. got the turbo manifold off and looked into the ports.....yea... Half of one of my 1 piece 3mm Ceramic seals was sharded off.. scatter blasted all through my New rotor faces... Got pissed off...closed the hood and went and hung out with my girlfriend again to calm my ass down. Finally got motivation that night to check my gtx3582R...which had 2 dyno sessions on it and about 450 miles total on it... and... YAY:
Shaft play every which way and.......


So yea...I missed All-star Bash...I'm going to be missing Seven stock unless I rush things... and the motor that contained an 1800 Dollar Atkins Balanced Rotating assembly, Mint super low mileage housings, 750 dollar NRS ceramic Seals, and a build that cost 3600 with every cleaning options available including porting shipping etc.. had all but been destroyed. Yes front housing and rotor might've been saved...but seriously.. whats another housings and rotor at this point? Also...that's a 1500 junk turbo. So as you guys may guess... I was pretty discouraged.

So my new plan? Howard Coleman will be rebuilding my motor. I trust the guy 100%, he's been a major mentor to me and has accommodated me fully and backed me fully since day 1. I havn't paid him to be my friend, it has just lead to that point. So I would like to thank Him personally for all he has done in helping me get to this point, and helping me move past this point. I would also Like to thank Elliot From turblown And Andy Wyatt (Owner of Adaptronic ecus) for all the advice, and excellent deals They've given me as well as trouble shooting and tips.

But I'm going LS1
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