Quote:
Originally Posted by cdlong
is that a s14 KA MAF or SR? is there a difference? is there a code for each, n60, n62, etc.?
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KA and SR MAF are indeed different however the readout on them is only different ~10 hp
Quote:
Originally Posted by dahveed
Anyone know?
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pro sevens have the optional use for the electronic control by tanabe called TEAS i think so yes that would be why
Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180
another quick 'stupid' question:
i just picked up a 96 ka transmission to replacemy extremely worn-out one. the one i picked up has the CAS on the bell housing. i can remove it(not use it) since im mating the transmission to a SOHC, right?
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the CAS on the bellhousing is only used for onboard diagnosis of misfire, not to directly control the engine system
you can remove it and i don't believe sohc makes any difference
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monooxide
S14 SR and I'd imagine they're different.
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fun fact: ka SOHC maf can be used if sr MAF is not available
but once again yes they're different physically but readout is mostly the same
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron_Zenki
Why doesn't my knockoff wheels impress zilvia?
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read the rules cock boy, reported. if you really want an answer - cost vs value
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayuaddict
Hello gentlemen.
i am in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my car at the moment, its a long process but i have to leave my car outside. Its also going to be a few months before it gets painted. So here is my question, what paint can i get (in a can) that will protect my car from rust? I need something that will not chemically react with the actual paint that will be applied later. I understand that primer is not a good idea as it is porous and therefore it absorbs moisture, is this true?
Thanks! all info is greatly appreciated!
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i don't think it will be a problem at all
but i would recommend putting real automotive primer on before a base coat anyways
the primer in a can should protect fine but i the enamel will be better over time
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tops*
Hello,
I may also be in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my possible future car. Is there a proper method, per say, to remove molded aero? Sand down the filler material until the aero is exposed => Source the method used to secure the aero => Remove?
-Yuta
P.S. Yuta, thank you for asking a question I was wondering about a few hours ago.
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I'm not sure if i understand correctly but i would sand it down to where it the aero meets the body and dremel the remaining filler until its weak and pop it off
any attachment (securing method) you should be able to see from under the car