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Old 12-18-2016, 08:51 PM   #1
Martinem092396
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Redlands CA
Posts: 28
Trader Rating: (2)
Martinem092396 is an unknown quantity at this point
Exclamation S13 sr misfire, not charging, starting issues

Hey guys I was finally able to test drive my new sr swap yesterday even tho it wasnt running at 100% as I was just eager to drive it after such a long build. I own a 1990 s13 hatch that was originally a 5speed ka24e. I will try try to explain the major problems in detail so you zilvia experts can help a fellow member get back on the road!
MODS:
3" Exhaust from turbo elbow all the way to muffler
FMIC
Inatke with pod filter
Wiring specialties engine harness
Freddy intake manifold
Ngk BKR7E spark plugs
Hks grounding kit
Aluminum rad with dual efan
Walbro 255 FP

MAJOR ISSUE #1

Probably the most annoying thing I have to do every time I want to start the car is manually jump the starter with a screwdriver. I have spent too much money and time on this build to be just another hack 240, I want to do this the right way and hoping you guys can lead me into the right direction. I am running an oem sr20 lower harness with the wiring specialties engine harness. I also invested in an HKS grounding kit to make sure everything is grounded down properly. I did a bunch of research and couldn’t find anything on how to wire the harness together so I just did whatever worked. I connected the terminal from the fuse box to the lower harness terminal. From there I connected a 2 gauge wire running to the trunk with a brand new battery. I replaced the blue starter relay in the engine bay and still no luck. The starter is rebuilt and passes test at autozone (car does start by not from ignition). The only thing I can think of now is either the ignition switch or neutral safety switch under the clutch pedal going bad? But the thing is that my car started up just fine with the key before the swap.

MAJOR ISSUE #2
I drove the car yesterday but it did have a misfire. I’m not sure why and I need help diagnosing the problem. First off plugs are brand new running NGK COPPER BKR7E all gapped to sr specs. Have new valve cover gasket and new sparkplug tube seals to insure dry plugs. I have adjusted the CAS according to the frsport guide. Used soapy water and checked every single vacuum and all check out to be ok. I have spark coming from each coil as well. I am running a walbro 255 FP and with the stock injectors. I put a screwdriver up to my ear and can hear each injector clicking about the same pace so I have plenty of fuel. The only thing I can think of as I’m typing this is I might have connected the injector plugs is the wrong order??? Also something weird that happens is that the engine starts to stall if I hold in or repeatedly press in the brake pedal. The vacuum hose from the booster to manifold are as tight as can be. Possibly faulty brake booster? I also have the PCV valve and T fitting on the valve cover vented to atmosphere, not sure if that makes a difference.

MAJOR ISSUE #3
Now finally the 3rd issue. When I drove the car the car started right up. I stalled getting out of my driveway as I was trying to avoid scraping my brand new Hks exhaust from that low life. Went back to the engine bay to jump the starter and again, started right up. I then went to the gas station to fill up tires with air and get some gas. I turned off the car as I was filling the tires with air. Went back to jump the starter to park in front of the gas pump and again started right up. I put some gas in the car and then no longer wanted to turn on, let alone crank. Got a friend to jump me and drove it back home. The next day I tried to turn it on and no luck, I had to jump it every single time. The alternator was rebuilt and passed the autozone test with flying colors. Also took the BRAND NEW battery back in and they charged it. They told me the battery was fine just drained. When I jump the 240 the car will run but as soon as I disconnect the car from where I’m jumping my 240 dies down and stalls. Meaning the alternator isn’t doing its job correct? I read somewhere online that if the battery light on the cluster doesn’t turn on while I turn the key to the “on” position that the alternator won’t receive a signal or something like that. I checked my cluster and sure enough the battery light isn’t working. I took out the bulb but looks to be fine. I went ahead and bought a new light bulb anyways have yet to install. I also checked the 75A fuse for the alternator and checks out to be ok. What else could it be?????

Please someone out there help or if you know a 240 god come send him my way!!

Last edited by Martinem092396; 12-28-2016 at 02:39 AM..
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